Babylon Rock climbing27 routes in cliff
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An hour's drive from the city and only a few minutes walk from the carpark, 'Babylon' must be vying for title of most accessible crag out of Brisbane. It encompasses a long stretch of the northern cliffs of 'Mt Ngungun', with climbs scattered along the cliffline wherever the rock is good enough. There is a variety of climbing on offer: plenty of slabby routes for beginners with some more difficult routes up overhanging rock for those looking for something pumpier.
Bolts are a mix of fixed hangers (FH in the descriptions) and carrot bolts (BR) which require bolt plates. All the sport routes and many of the trad routes have double bolt belay anchors (DBB) for lowering off.
Climbs are listed left to right.
Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains
Instead of the usual approach to 'Mt Ngungun', 'Babylon' (along with 'The Sentinels' and 'The Hidden Slabs') is accessed from Ngungun's northern side. Follow the road through the Glasshouse Mountains township as it doglegs over the railway as per usual. However instead of following the road left as it becomes Coonowrin Rd, turn right into Railway Parade. Take the first left into Sahara Rd and drive along this for about 2km. Just after the speed limit increases to 80 km/h there is a dirt parking strip beside the road on the left. Park here.
From the carpark follow the small but distinct track up the hill for 100m or so, crossing two vehicle trails. The base of the cliff is reached within a few minutes. The two lines of bolts visible from where the track meets the cliff are 'Rumble In The Jungle' and 'Hijinx'.
Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains
Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.
Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!
New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.
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