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Description

An hour's drive from the city and only a few minutes walk from the carpark, 'Babylon' must be vying for title of most accessible crag out of Brisbane. It encompasses a long stretch of the northern cliffs of 'Mt Ngungun', with climbs scattered along the cliffline wherever the rock is good enough. There is a variety of climbing on offer: plenty of slabby routes for beginners with some more difficult routes up overhanging rock for those looking for something pumpier.

Bolts are a mix of fixed hangers (FH in the descriptions) and carrot bolts (BR) which require bolt plates. All the sport routes and many of the trad routes have double bolt belay anchors (DBB) for lowering off.

Climbs are listed left to right.

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach

Instead of the usual approach to 'Mt Ngungun', 'Babylon' (along with 'The Sentinels' and 'The Hidden Slabs') is accessed from Ngungun's northern side. Follow the road through the Glasshouse Mountains township as it doglegs over the railway as per usual. However instead of following the road left as it becomes Coonowrin Rd, turn right into Railway Parade. Take the first left into Sahara Rd and drive along this for about 2km. Just after the speed limit increases to 80 km/h there is a dirt parking strip beside the road on the left. Park here.

View driving map

From the carpark follow the small but distinct track up the hill for 100m or so, crossing two vehicle trails. The base of the cliff is reached within a few minutes. The two lines of bolts visible from where the track meets the cliff are 'Rumble In The Jungle' and 'Hijinx'.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

Directly under bush at 10m, in the centre of the arete. A solo problem, no gear. A couple of balancy moves and smears. Downclimb.

FA: Dan Lukis, 2008

FA: Lee Cujes & Philippa Newton, 1999

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

FA: Neil Monteith, 1995

Start as for PE, but don't tend right. Instead head directly up the LLR. Solo FA, however no useful gear was seen... a solo problem. Lots of loose rock, most was removed but some would no doubt remain. Traverse to AR and downclimb.

FA: Dan Lukis, 2008

FA: Neil Monteith, 1995

Start at blunt arete with line of BRs about 10m L of 'Acumen'.

Fun, well-protected beginner lead. Climb up slabby L-tending arete past 7 BRs to DBB.

FA: Ross Ferguson & Matt Williams, 2001

Start below highest section of cliff with orange-white headwall, about 15m L of 'Rumble In The Jungle'.

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

Start as for 'Acumen'.

FA: Stephen Parker & Lee Cujes, 2001

Start where track from carpark reaches cliff, 2m L of 'Hijinx'.

Fun pumpy moves up overhanging wall past FH, BR, BR and FH finishing at DBB.

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

Start where track from carpark reaches cliff, 2m R of 'Rumble In The Jungle'.

Juggy but balancy climbing past FH, BR then FH to DBB.

FA: Lee Cujes & Philippa Newton, 1999

Start 5m R of 'Hijinx', just around arete.

Preclip 1st bolt by leaning in from ledge to R but start direct. Crimpy moves up smooth face past BR, FH and BR to DBB. Harder if you avoid holds on arete.

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

From 'Gossamer Threads' follow the cliffline R for about 70m to find a section of wall with BRs. The next 3 climbs are here.

Start at L-most line of bolts on this section.

Nice thin moves past highish BR. Continue past 2nd BR to DBB.

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2002

Start 3m R of Dang Fool.

Up past 3 tightly-spaced BRs. Then either traverse sharply L to the 'Dang Fool' DBB (makes it difficult to retrieve draws) or run it out up and R to the 'Heinzinator' DBB.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2004

Start 3m R of 'Fool's Errand'.

Straight up past 3 BRs to DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher & Steve Jones, 2009

From 'Dang Fool' follow vague track towards obvious overhanging buttress about 20m away. 'Brummagem' ascends this.

Start: 5m L of Brummagem at the big chimney/groove. Up easy slab on pockets and jugs past three BR's to chains.

FA: Ross & Claudia Ferguson, 2001

Start: As for Pockets Of Fun. To ledge, then climb R and up on good pockets to chains.

FA: Ross Ferguson & Matt Williams, 2001

FA: Heinz Buscher & Ros Jackson, 2009

Start: As for Pockets Of Fun. Bridge up the back of the chimney on gear, the exit L and up passing a BR to chains.

FA: Ross & Claudia Ferguson, 2002

FA: Lee Cujes & Erik Smits, 1999

The next climbs are found approximately 30m R of 'Brummagem'.

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

FA: Lee Cujes & Erik Smits, 1999

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

FA: Lee Cujes & Erik Smits, 1999

FA: Lee Cujes & Aaron Jones, 1999

Activity

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