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Babylon 27 routes in Cliff

  • Avg. Height: 21m
  • Style: Trad,Sport
  • Approach time: <5 minutes
  • Ascents: 258

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Description:

An hour's drive from the city and only a few minutes walk from the carpark, 'Babylon' must be vying for title of most accessible crag out of Brisbane. It encompasses a long stretch of the northern cliffs of 'Mt Ngungun', with climbs scattered along the cliffline wherever the rock is good enough. There is a variety of climbing on offer: plenty of slabby routes for beginners with some more difficult routes up overhanging rock for those looking for something pumpier.

Bolts are a mix of fixed hangers (FH in the descriptions) and carrot bolts (BR) which require bolt plates. All the sport routes and many of the trad routes have double bolt belay anchors (DBB) for lowering off.

Climbs are listed left to right.

Access Issues: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach:

Instead of the usual approach to 'Mt Ngungun', 'Babylon' (along with 'The Sentinels' and 'The Hidden Slabs') is accessed from Ngungun's northern side. Follow the road through the Glasshouse Mountains township as it doglegs over the railway as per usual. However instead of following the road left as it becomes Coonowrin Rd, turn right into Railway Parade. Take the first left into Sahara Rd and drive along this for about 2km. Just after the speed limit increases to 80 km/h there is a dirt parking strip beside the road on the left. Park here.

View driving map

From the carpark follow the small but distinct track up the hill for 100m or so, crossing two vehicle trails. The base of the cliff is reached within a few minutes. The two lines of bolts visible from where the track meets the cliff are 'Rumble In The Jungle' and 'Hijinx'.

Ethic: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Baby Grit

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

7
Trad 15m
2 Smearete

Directly under bush at 10m, in the centre of the arete. A solo problem, no gear. A couple of balancy moves and smears. Downclimb.

FA: Dan Lukis, 2008

9
Trad 12m
3 Pikachu

FA: Lee Cujes, Philippa Newton, 1999

7
Trad 18m
4 Charmander

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

7
Trad 18m
5 Bulbasaur

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

5
Trad 17m
6 Access Route

FA: Neil Monteith, 1995

4
Trad 10m
7 Shit Scary

Start as for PE, but don't tend right. Instead head directly up the LLR. Solo FA, however no useful gear was seen... a solo problem. Lots of loose rock, most was removed but some would no doubt remain. Traverse to AR and downclimb.

FA: Dan Lukis, 2008

13
Trad 20m
8 Piss Easy

FA: Neil Monteith, 1995

5
Trad 25m
9 As Thick As Two Planks Stuck Together With Stupid Glue

Start at blunt arete with line of BRs about 10m L of 'Acumen'.

Fun, well-protected beginner lead. Climb up slabby L-tending arete past 7 BRs to DBB.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Matt Williams, 2001

12
Sport 25m , 7
10 * Acumen

Start below highest section of cliff with orange-white headwall, about 15m L of 'Rumble In The Jungle'.

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

20
Mixed 35m , 4
11 Acumen VF

Start as for 'Acumen'.

FA: Stephen Parker, Lee Cujes, 2001

18 R
Mixed 40m , 2
12 Rumble In The Jungle

Start where track from carpark reaches cliff, 2m L of 'Hijinx'.

Fun pumpy moves up overhanging wall past FH, BR, BR and FH finishing at DBB.

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

20
Sport 16m , 4
13 Hijinx

Start where track from carpark reaches cliff, 2m R of 'Rumble In The Jungle'.

Juggy but balancy climbing past FH, BR then FH to DBB.

FA: Lee Cujes, Philippa Newton, 1999

17
Sport 16m , 3
14 Gossamer Threads

Start 5m R of 'Hijinx', just around arete.

Preclip 1st bolt by leaning in from ledge to R but start direct. Crimpy moves up smooth face past BR, FH and BR to DBB. Harder if you avoid holds on arete.

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

19
Sport 13m , 3

From 'Gossamer Threads' follow the cliffline R for about 70m to find a section of wall with BRs. The next 3 climbs are here.

15 Dang Fool

Start at L-most line of bolts on this section.

Nice thin moves past highish BR. Continue past 2nd BR to DBB.

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2002

14
Sport 10m , 2
16 Fool's Errand

Start 3m R of Dang Fool.

Up past 3 tightly-spaced BRs. Then either traverse sharply L to the 'Dang Fool' DBB (makes it difficult to retrieve draws) or run it out up and R to the 'Heinzinator' DBB.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2004

14
Sport 10m , 3
17 Heinzinator

Start 3m R of 'Fool's Errand'.

Straight up past 3 BRs to DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, Steve Jones, 2009

13
Sport 14m , 3

From 'Dang Fool' follow vague track towards obvious overhanging buttress about 20m away. 'Brummagem' ascends this.

18 Pockets Of Fun

Start: 5m L of Brummagem at the big chimney/groove. Up easy slab on pockets and jugs past three BR's to chains.

FA: Ross & Claudia Ferguson, 2001

9
Sport 15m , 3
19 A Bad Dose Of Rigamortice

Start: As for Pockets Of Fun. To ledge, then climb R and up on good pockets to chains.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Matt Williams, 2001

10
Sport 15m , 3
20 Fillament

FA: Heinz Buscher, Ros Jackson, 2009

13
Sport 22m , 4
21 Friday Afternoon Nutcases

Start: As for Pockets Of Fun. Bridge up the back of the chimney on gear, the exit L and up passing a BR to chains.

FA: Ross & Claudia Ferguson, 2002

13
Trad 20m
22 Brummagem

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, 1999

21
Sport 13m , 2

The next climbs are found approximately 30m R of 'Brummagem'.

23 Flat Out

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

11
Trad 30m
24 Slap Slap Shit Splat

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, 1999

16
Trad 30m
25 Strange Ritual

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

20
Mixed 30m , 3
26 Aqua Aerobics

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, 1999

18
Mixed 30m , 1
27 Boulder Problem Gone Wrong

FA: Lee Cujes, Aaron Jones, 1999

6
Trad 50m