Andromeda Mostly Sport climbing40 routes in cliff
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A small cliff on the west side of 'Mt Ngungun' perfect for beginner leaders with a heap of short, easy and well-protected sports routes in a quiet, shady location.
Since rebolting in 2014, the majority of climbs are protected by glue in ring bolts (RBs) or fixed hangers (FHs), and all climbs have their own double bolt belay (DBB) anchors. The four climbs in the "mini adventure" sector still have bolt runners (BRs, aka carrot bolts) and therefore require bolt hangers.
Being a relatively new crag there is some loose rock. Generally it's more pebbles than boulders but helmets, as always, are advisable.
Most of the initials at the start of the climbs have faded away. Two landmarks to get you oriented are the fused crack line in the groove in the middle of the cliff - this is 'Interstellar Journey' - and the biggest tree at the base - 'Lunar Eclipse' starts here. Climbs are listed from right to left.
Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains
Walk up the 'Mt Ngungun' tourist track from the carpark on Fullertons Rd. Count the sets of concrete stairs as you come to them. When you reach the fifth set of stairs, don't climb it but instead continue straight ahead to the tree at the apex of the corner. This is the last switchback corner before reaching the 'Lower Cliffs'.
A small path leads off from the tree in a NW direction. Follow it at the same contour for about 10 minutes until arriving at the cliff.
Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains
Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.
Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!
New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.
Initially developed by Heinz Buscher 2010-2011.
Almost all routes were rebolted with EN959 hardware in 2014 in a major rebolting effort by Dave Reeve, Paul Amies, et al. The rebolting was funded by Safer Cliffs Qld and carried out under ACAQ Bolting Proposal BP006 submitted to and approved by QPWS.
The climbs on Legends Wall were added in 2014-2015 as a thank you to many big and small legends of the climbing community.
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