Andromeda Mostly sport climbing24 routes in cliff
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A small cliff on the west side of 'Mt Ngungun' perfect for beginner leaders with a heap of short, easy and well-protected sports routes in a quiet, shady location.
Thanks to the tireless efforts of Dave Reeve, Paul Amies, et al, the cliff is now protected by glue-in ring bolts. New anchors were also installed so that each climb now has its own anchor. The rebolting was funded by Safer Cliffs Qld and carried out in 2014 under ACAQ Bolting Proposal BP006 submitted to and approved by QPWS.
Being a relatively new crag there is some loose rock. Generally it's more pebbles than boulders but helmets are advisable.
Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains
Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.
Walk up the 'Mt Ngungun' tourist track from the carpark on Fullertons Rd. Count the sets of concrete stairs as you come to them. When you reach the fifth set of stairs, don't climb it but instead continue straight ahead to the tree at the apex of the corner. This is the last switchback corner before reaching 'Flat Battery Wall' at the 'Lower Cliffs'.
A small path leads off from the tree in a NW direction, easily followed and with occasional green tape and rock cairns for reassurance. Follow it at the same contour for about 10 minutes until arriving at the cliff.
The path meets the cliff at its R-most end, near '"G"' and '"M"'. For this reason the climbs are listed from R to L (or south to north). To orientate yourself, look along the wall for the largest tree, growing about 2m out from the wall. 'Lunar Eclipse' is here.
Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains
Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.
Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!
New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.
Development commenced in 2010.