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Description

A small cliff on the west side of 'Mt Ngungun' perfect for beginner leaders with a heap of short, easy and well-protected sports routes in a quiet, shady location.

Since a major rebolting effort by Dave Reeve, Paul Amies, et al in 2014, the majority of climbs are protected by glue in ring bolts (RBs) or fixed hangers (FHs), and all climbs have their own double bolt belay (DBB) anchors. The four climbs in the "mini adventure" sector still have bolt runners (BRs, aka carrot bolts) and therefore require bolt hangers. The rebolting was funded by Safer Cliffs Qld and carried out under ACAQ Bolting Proposal BP006 submitted to and approved by QPWS.

Being a relatively new crag there is some loose rock. Generally it's more pebbles than boulders but helmets, as always, are advisable.

Most of the initials at the start of the climbs have almost completely faded away. Two landmarks to get you started at the fused crack line in the groove in the middle of the cliff - this is 'Interstellar Journey' and the climb in front of the biggest tree at the base is 'Lunar Eclipse'. Climbs are listed from right to left.

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach

Walk up the 'Mt Ngungun' tourist track from the carpark on Fullertons Rd. Count the sets of concrete stairs as you come to them. When you reach the fifth set of stairs, don't climb it but instead continue straight ahead to the tree at the apex of the corner. This is the last switchback corner before reaching 'Flat Battery Wall' at the 'Lower Cliffs'.

A small path leads off from the tree in a NW direction, easily followed and with occasional rock cairns for reassurance. Follow it at the same contour for about 10 minutes until arriving at the cliff.

The path meets the cliff at its rightmost end, near 'Graviton' and 'Mars'. For this reason the climbs are listed from R to L (or south to north).

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

History

Development commenced in 2010. Most climbs rebolted 2014.

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Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
Heinz Sector Sector
22
1,356
17m
Legends Wall Sector
11
75
11m