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A small cliff on the west side of 'Mt Ngungun' perfect for beginner leaders with a heap of short, easy and well-protected sports routes in a quiet, shady location.
Many of the climbs are bolted with carrot bolts (BR in the descriptions) and so require bolt plates. Some climbs have fixed hangers (FH). All climbs have double bolt belays (DBB) for lowering off. These are shared between multiple routes resulting in some traversing at times. All the climbs (aside from 'Coal Sack' and 'Space Ride') can be climbed with 5 bolt plates and 7 quickdraws.
Being a relatively new crag there is some loose rock. Generally it's more pebbles than boulders but helmets are advisable.
Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains
Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.
Walk up the 'Mt Ngungun' tourist track from the carpark on Fullertons Rd. Count the sets of concrete stairs as you come to them. When you reach the fifth set of stairs, don't climb it but instead continue straight ahead to the tree at the apex of the corner. This is the last switchback corner before reaching 'Flat Battery Wall' at the 'Lower Cliffs'.
A small path leads off from the tree in a NW direction, easily followed and with occasional green tape and rock cairns for reassurance. Follow it at the same contour for about 10 minutes until arriving at the cliff.
The path meets the cliff at its R-most end, near '"G"' and '"M"'. For this reason the climbs are listed from R to L (or south to north). To orientate yourself, look along the wall for the largest tree, growing about 2m out from the wall. 'Lunar Eclipse' is here.
Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains
Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.
Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!
New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.
Development commenced in 2010.