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Description

A small cliff on the west side of 'Mt Ngungun' perfect for beginner leaders with a heap of short, easy and well-protected sports routes in a quiet, shady location.

Thanks to the tireless efforts of Dave Reeve, Paul Amies, et al, the cliff is now protected by glue-in ring bolts. New anchors were also installed so that each climb now has its own anchor. The rebolting was funded by Safer Cliffs Qld and carried out in 2014 under ACAQ Bolting Proposal BP006 submitted to and approved by QPWS.

Being a relatively new crag there is some loose rock. Generally it's more pebbles than boulders but helmets are advisable.

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach

Walk up the 'Mt Ngungun' tourist track from the carpark on Fullertons Rd. Count the sets of concrete stairs as you come to them. When you reach the fifth set of stairs, don't climb it but instead continue straight ahead to the tree at the apex of the corner. This is the last switchback corner before reaching 'Flat Battery Wall' at the 'Lower Cliffs'.

A small path leads off from the tree in a NW direction, easily followed and with occasional green tape and rock cairns for reassurance. Follow it at the same contour for about 10 minutes until arriving at the cliff.

The path meets the cliff at its R-most end, near '"G"' and '"M"'. For this reason the climbs are listed from R to L (or south to north). To orientate yourself, look along the wall for the largest tree, growing about 2m out from the wall. 'Lunar Eclipse' is here.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

History

Development commenced in 2010.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1

Start 2m R of 'Graviton'. Marked "AZ" but the paint is coming off.

Follow the line of 4 BRs straight up before tending left to the 'Graviton' DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, Gina Peters, 2011

2
18 Graviton / "G" Sport 12m, 4

Start 2m R of 'Mars'. Marked "G" but the paint is coming off.

Straight up following the line of 4 FHs to the DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2011

3
18 Mars / "M" Sport 12m, 5

Start 3m R of 'Horse Head Nebula'. Marked "M".

Straight up following the line of 5 FHs. Hardest climbing is around the 2nd bolt. Tend R after the 5th bolt to the 'Graviton' DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, Jeremy Danielsen, 2011

4
17 Horse Head Nebula Sport 17m, 3

Start 3m R of 'Alien Encounter'. Marked "HN".

Follow the bolts. Finish is traditionally traversing L to the 'Alien Encounter' DBB but it's a bit difficult to clean the route off this anchor. Traversing R to the '"M"' DBB might be a better option.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

5
15 Alien Encounter Sport 18m, 4

Start 2m R of 'Asteroid Belt'. Marked "AE".

Follow the bolts to the DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

6
16 Asteroid Belt Sport 18m, 5

Start 3m R of 'Solar Eclipse'. Marked "AB".

Follow the line of 5BRs to DBB

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

7
16 Solar Eclipse Sport 20m, 4

Start 2m R of 'Gravitational Equilibrium'. Marked "SE".

Follow the BRs. At the top traverse L to the 'Interstellar Journey' DBB or R to the 'Alien Encounter' DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, Ros Jackson, 2010

8

Start 2m R of 'Interstellar Journey'. Marked "GE".

Probably the best climb on the cliff. Some nice moves and relatively sustained climbing. Climb L at the top to finish at the 'Interstellar Journey' DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, Gordon Baudino, Glenn Ferguson, 2010

9
15 Interstellar Journey Sport 20m, 4

Start 2m R of 'Southern Cross'. Marked "IJ".

Follow the crackline clipping 4 BRs to the DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

10
18 Southern Cross Sport 20m, 4

Start 5m R of 'Worm Hole'. Marked "SC".

Easier than 'Gravitational Equilibrium' and much easier than 'Worm Hole'. Follow the bolts, traversing R at the top to the 'Interstellar Journey' DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, Sandra Buscher, 2010

11
16 Space Ride Sport 28m, 7

A traverse using the bolts of the various climbs.

Start at 'Southern Cross', 5m R of 'Worm Hole'. Marked "SC".

Clip the 1st bolt on 'Southern Cross'. Then traverse R clipping:

Then straight up to the DBB at 'Alien Encounter' clipping its final bolt on the way.

FA: Heinz Buscher, Gordon Baudino, 2010

12
18 Worm Hole Sport 17m, 4

Start 3m R of 'Coal Sack'. Marked "WH".

A difficult move to clip the 2nd bolt is harder than the grade would suggest. A hold may have come off since the original grading? Traverse L at the top to the 'Coal Sack' DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

13
16 Coal Sack Mixed 17m, 2

Start 3m R of 'Lunar Eclipse'. Marked "CS".

Easy climbing with trad protection following the crack until it runs out about halfway up. More difficult climbing in the second half protected by 2 BRs to the DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

14
15 Lunar Eclipse Sport 17m, 4

Start at the largest tree along the cliff, about 2m back from the wall. Marked "LE".

Straight up following 4 BRs then traverse R at the top to the 'Coal Sack' DBB.

FA: Steve Jones, Ros Jackson, Heinz Buscher, 2010

15
14 Event Horizon Sport 17m, 4

Start 2m L of 'Lunar Eclipse'. Marked "EH".

Climb straight up to the R of the large loose blocks then tend L to the 'Star Dust' DBB. 4 BRs.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

16
13 Star Dust Sport 17m, 4

Start 3m L of 'Event Horizon'. Marked "SD".

Follow 4 BRs straight up to the L of the large loose blocks finishing at the DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

17
11 Nebula Sport 10m, 3

Start 2m L of 'Star Dust'. Marked "N".

Straight up past 3 BRs. Traverse sharply L after the 3rd bolt to the 'Orbital Tether' DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

18
12 Orbital Tether Sport 10m, 3

Start 2m L of 'Nebula'. Marked "OT".

Climb straight up past 3 BRs to the DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

19
16 Black Hole Sport 10m, 3

Start 2m L of 'Orbital Tether'. Marked "BH".

Climb straight up to below the overhanging block clipping 2 BRs, both of which are hidden until you're near them. Clip the 3rd BR on the block then climb up the block on its L side (crux). Once over the block traverse R to the 'Orbital Tether' DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

20
13 Orion's Belt Sport 25m, 5

A traverse using the bolts of the various climbs.

Start at 'Black Hole', 2m L of 'Orbital Tether'. Marked "BH".

Clip the 1st bolt on 'Black Hole'. Then traverse R clipping:

Then up tending left to the 'Star Dust' DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, Sandra Buscher, 2010

The next four climbs are in the 'Andromeda' "mini adventure" sector. Long pitches up an exposed slab with fantastic views, but relatively runout and with plenty of loose rock – take care. A 60m rope is advisable but a 50m rope and some scrambling will work.

21
10 Space Dust Sport 28m, 5

Follow the cliff line past 'Black Hole' for about 80m. Start at the black tree half a metre back from the cliff. Marked "SD".

Follow the line of 5 BRs trending L (more so after the 4th BR) to the 'Synchronous Orbit' DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

22
11 Galaxy Sport 26m, 4

Start 3m L of 'Space Dust'. Marked "G".

Follow 4 BRs tending L to the 'Synchronous Orbit' DBB. Quite runout, particularly to the 1st bolt. The 4th bolt is also the 5th bolt on 'Space Dust' and is easy to miss.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

23
16 Synchronous Orbit Sport 27m, 4

Start 4m L of 'Galaxy'. Marked "SO".

Up the easy slab clipping 2 BRs to the base of the headwall. Clip the 3rd BR then crank through some steeper moves up the headwall to the 4th BR. On up the slab to the DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

24
12 Singularity Sport 26m, 4

Start 3m L of 'Synchronous Orbit'. Marked "S".

Follow the line of 4 BRs trending R at the top to the 'Synchronous Orbit' DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010