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Description

A small cliff on the west side of 'Mt Ngungun' perfect for beginner leaders with a heap of short, easy and well-protected sports routes in a quiet, shady location.

Since rebolting in 2014, the majority of climbs are protected by glue in ring bolts (RBs) or fixed hangers (FHs), and all climbs have their own double bolt belay (DBB) anchors. The four climbs in the "mini adventure" sector still have bolt runners (BRs, aka carrot bolts) and therefore require bolt hangers.

Being a relatively new crag there is some loose rock. Generally it's more pebbles than boulders but helmets, as always, are advisable.

Most of the initials at the start of the climbs have faded away. Two landmarks to get you oriented are the fused crack line in the groove in the middle of the cliff - this is 'Interstellar Journey' - and the biggest tree at the base - 'Lunar Eclipse' starts here. Climbs are listed from right to left.

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach

Walk up the 'Mt Ngungun' tourist track from the carpark on Fullertons Rd. Count the sets of concrete stairs as you come to them. When you reach the fifth set of stairs, don't climb it but instead continue straight ahead to the tree at the apex of the corner. This is the last switchback corner before reaching the 'Lower Cliffs'.

A small path leads off from the tree in a NW direction. Follow it at the same contour for about 10 minutes until arriving at the cliff.

The path meets the cliff at its rightmost end, near 'Graviton' and 'Mars'. For this reason the climbs are listed from right to left (or south to north).

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

History

Initially developed by Heinz Buscher 2010-2011.

Almost all routes were rebolted with EN959 hardware in 2014 in a major rebolting effort by Dave Reeve, Paul Amies, et al. The rebolting was funded by Safer Cliffs Qld and carried out under ACAQ Bolting Proposal BP006 submitted to and approved by QPWS.

The climbs on Legends Wall were added in 2014-2015 as a thank you to many big and small legends of the climbing community.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
14 Absolute Zero Sport 10m, 4

Climb furthest to the right on the cliff. Marked "AZ" but the paint is coming off.

Follow the line of 4 RBs straight up to a DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher & Gina Peters, 2011

2
18 Graviton Sport 12m, 4

Start 2m L of 'Absolute Zero'. Marked "G" but the paint is coming off.

Straight up following the line of 4 FHs to the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2011

The access track enters about here.

3
18 Mars / "M" Sport 12m, 5

Start 2m L of 'Graviton' Marked "M".

Straight up following the line of 5 FHs to DBB. Hardest climbing is around the 2nd bolt. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher & Jeremy Danielsen, 2011

4
17 Horse Head Nebula Sport 17m, 3

Start 3m L of 'Mars'. Marked "HN".

Follow the bolts straight up to DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

5
15 Alien Encounter Sport 18m, 4

Start 3m L of 'Horse Head Nebula'. Marked "AE".

Follow the bolts to the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

6
16 Asteroid Belt Sport 18m, 3

Start 2m L of 'Alien Encounter'. Marked "AB".

Follow the line of 3 RBs to DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

7
16 Solar Eclipse Sport 20m, 4

Start 3m L of 'Asteroid Belt'. Marked "SE".

Follow 4 RBs to DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher & Ros Jackson, 2010

8

Start 2m L of 'Solar Eclipse'. Marked "GE".

Probably the best climb on the cliff. Some nice moves and relatively sustained climbing. Up past a RB and 2 FHs, then head L to another RB and up to the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, Gordon Baudino & Glenn Ferguson, 2010

9
15 Interstellar Journey Sport 20m, 4

Start 2m L of 'Gravitational Equilibrium'. Marked "IJ".

Follow the crackline clipping 4 RBs to the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

10
18 Southern Cross Sport 20m, 4

Start 2m L of 'Interstellar Journey'. Marked "SC".

Easier than 'Gravitational Equilibrium' and much easier than 'Worm Hole'. Follow the bolts, traversing R at the top to the 'Interstellar Journey' DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher & Sandra Buscher, 2010

11
16 Space Ride Sport 28m, 7

A traverse using the bolts of the various climbs.

Start at 'Southern Cross', 5m R of 'Worm Hole'. Marked "SC".

Clip the 1st bolt on 'Southern Cross'. Then traverse R clipping:

Then straight up to the DBB at 'Alien Encounter' clipping its final bolt on the way.

FA: Heinz Buscher & Gordon Baudino, 2010

12
18 Worm Hole Sport 17m, 4

Start 5m L of 'Southern Cross'. Marked "WH".

A difficult move to clip the 2nd bolt is harder than the grade would suggest. A hold may have come off since the original grading? Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

13
15 Dark Matter Sport 17m

Between the Coal Sack crack and Worm Hole. Up following rings to anchor.

FA: Unknown

Set by David Reeve, 2014

14
16 Coal Sack Mixed 17m, 2

Start 3m L of 'Worm Hole'. Marked "CS".

Easy climbing with trad protection following the crack until it runs out about halfway up. More difficult climbing in the second half protected by 2 RBs to the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

15
13 More Dark Matter Sport 17m, 4

Immediately left of the Coal Sack crack system. Follow ring bolts to the anchor.

FA: unknown

Set by David Reeve, 2014

Big tree at base of cliff here.

16
15 Lunar Eclipse Sport 17m, 4

Start at the largest tree along the cliff, about 2m back from the wall. Marked "LE".

Straight up following 4 RBs to DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Steve Jones, Ros Jackson & Heinz Buscher, 2010

17
14 Event Horizon Sport 17m, 4

Start 2m L of 'Lunar Eclipse'. Marked "EH".

Climb straight up to the R of the large loose blocks then tend L to the 'Star Dust' DBB. 4 RBs. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

18
13 Star Dust Sport 17m, 4

Start 3m L of 'Event Horizon'. Marked "SD".

Follow 4 RBs straight up to the L of the large loose blocks finishing at the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

19
11 Nebula Sport 10m, 3

Start 2m L of 'Star Dust'. Marked "N".

Straight up past 3 RBs. New anchor over lip. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

20
12 Orbital Tether Sport 10m, 3

Start 2m L of 'Nebula'. Marked "OT".

Climb straight up past 3 RBs to the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

21
16 Black Hole Sport 10m, 3

Start 2m L of 'Orbital Tether'. Marked "BH".

Climb straight up to below the overhanging block clipping 2 RBs, both of which are hidden until you're near them. Clip the 3rd RB on the block then climb up the block on its L side (crux). Once over the block anchor is hiding over the lip. . Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

22
13 Orion's Belt Sport 25m, 5

A traverse using the bolts of the various climbs.

Start at 'Black Hole', 2m L of 'Orbital Tether'. Marked "BH".

Clip the 1st bolt on 'Black Hole'. Then traverse R clipping:

Then up tending left to the 'Star Dust' DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher & Sandra Buscher, 2010

Legends wall

The next climbs heading left were added later and the section of cliff they're on was given its own name. It's really just a continuation of the main wall though.

23

Traverse right to left, starting up Brazil and clipping first bolt, then follow the easy line about midway up the wall, clipping a bolt on each climb, to finish up through the last bolt and to the anchors on Do Not Shit in the Woods

FFA: DuglButt, 16th Jul

24

FFA: Ria Zoeller, 2015

27
5 TJ Rothschild Sport 18m, 5

FFA: Ria Zoeller, 2014

30
17 * The Spitz Roy Massif Sport 10m, 4

FFA: Adam Gibson, 2014

31

FFA: Ria Zoeller, 2014

32

FFA: Ria Zoeller, 2014

34

Poo is very serious issue which challenges ongoing access to popular climbing areas.

You simply can't poo in woods at a high volume crag like this (or slider, coolum or brooyar) despite what you were told as a kid/in scouts/in a bushwalking book.

Either don't poop at the crag, carry it out, or don't act surprised when you see crags being closed.

FFA: Ria Zoeller, 2014

35

Traverse left to right, starting up Do Not Shit in the Woods to first bolt, follow easy line across about halfway up the cliff, then trend upwards to anchors on Brazil. Clip a bolt on each climb as you go.

FFA: DuglButt, 16th Jul

Mini adventure sector

The next climbs are located about 50m left past the last climb on Legends Wall. They're long pitches up an exposed slab with fantastic views, but relatively runout and with plenty of loose rock. A 60m rope is advisable to make descending easier but a 50m rope and some scrambling will work. Don't forget bolt hangers.

36
10 Space Dust Sport 28m, 5

Follow the cliff line past 'Black Hole' for about 80m. Start at the black tree half a metre back from the cliff. Marked "SD".

Follow the line of 5 BRs trending L (more so after the 4th BR) to the 'Synchronous Orbit' DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

37
11 Galaxy Sport 26m, 4

Start 3m L of 'Space Dust'. Marked "G".

Follow 4 BRs tending L to the 'Synchronous Orbit' DBB. Quite runout, particularly to the 1st bolt. The 4th bolt is also the 5th bolt on 'Space Dust' and is easy to miss.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

38
16 Synchronous Orbit Sport 27m, 4

Start 4m L of 'Galaxy'. Marked "SO".

Up the easy slab clipping 2 BRs to the base of the headwall. Clip the 3rd BR then crank through some steeper moves up the headwall to the 4th BR. On up the slab to the DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

39
12 Singularity Sport 26m, 4

Start 3m L of 'Synchronous Orbit'. Marked "S".

Follow the line of 4 BRs trending R at the top to the 'Synchronous Orbit' DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010