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Description

A small slabby wall with three sport and some trad routes. Easy top-rope setup makes this a great wall for beginner climbers.

All bolts are now ring bolts (RBs in the descriptions) and there are bolted anchors. Please don't use the trees as anchors.

Climbs are listed left to right.

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach

Pass through the 'Lower Cliffs' gate and you're standing on top of 'Flat Battery Wall'. Scramble down to the right (looking out) to get to the base.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
14 * Lithium Grit Trad 10m

Start 3m left of bad move, up to bulge (med cam) in crack below bulge, then move up and slightly right with care to lose looking block (ground-fall) keep climbing place a nut in slot, then up to crack (small cam) and finish on jugs.

FFA: B.Cobb, 2014

2
17 * Bad Move Sport 10m, 2

Start at the L-most line of bolts on 'Flat Battery Wall'. Balance up the slab past 2 RBs to anchor. Quite run out.

FA: Darrin Carter & Grant Bucknell, 1993

3
17 * Charger Sport 10m, 3

Start 2m R of 'Bad Move', directly below the notched roof. Climb up to and over the roof to easier climbing above. 3 RBs to anchor on left of Flat Battery Great rock but route feels a touch contrived down low with jugs on Flat Battery very tempting!

FA: Gary Cobb & Aaron Fuchs, 2008

4
13 * Flat Battery Sport 14m, 2

The original Queensland easy sport route! R of 'Charger'. Runout start to high RB then superb fishbowl jugs past a second RB to lower-off anchor on the right. When first bolted this was quite controversial (bolts on a 13!) but in the 21st century it's considered quite runout! Rebolted 2015.

FA: Darrin Carter & Grant Bucknell, 1993

5
12 * Where's Marty? Trad 10m

2m R of Flat Battery. A sandbagged bouldery, slabby route with minimal protection and moss. In other words a mega classic! If someone wants to retrobolt this you have my permission (Neil M)

FA: Neil Monteith & Mark Bennett, 1994

6
15 * Sexy Legs Trad 15m

Start 2m R of 'Where's Marty?'.

Up vegetated crack and slab to top.

FA: M. Welsh, Ingrid Smits & Martin Worth, 1994

7
17 * Hairy Legs Trad 15m

Start from Sexy Legs, over the bulge and to the Ferny crack then follow this crack trending right until you hit the arete. Climb this to the top. This climb is harder than its neighbour but has the advantage of adequate protection.

FFA: B. Cobb, 2014

8
12 * Roof Climb Trad 15m

Start 6m R of 'Sexy Legs'.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1993

9
14 * Spilled Milk Trad 13m

Start 2m right of 'Roof Climb'. Climb straight to the top staying within the band of rock covered in white lichen.

FA: Unknown

Activity

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