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Description

A freestanding pillar bearing a remarkable resemblance to an owl. Has 5 short but fun sport routes and an easy solo scramble.

The routes are bolted with a mix of FHs & BRs so make sure you have some bolt plates with you before setting off up the climbs. The summit and its chains can be accessed unroped via 'Easy Solo' to set up topropes but make sure your rope goes through your own gear and not directly through the chains.

Climbs are listed left to right.

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach

Located just off the 'Lower Cliffs' access track to the right as you ascend, opposite 'Flat Battery Wall'.

Descent Notes

There are a set of rap chains on top of the pillar which can be used to descend from all the climbs, with varying degrees of equalisation.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1
22 Midnight Makeout Sport 7m, 3

Start at the leftmost line of bolts on 'Owl Pillar'. It's highly advisable to stickclip the 1st bolt due to the uneven ground and steep dropoff to the L. Pull up the overhanging start (crux) past the 1st FH then clip the 2nd FH. Continue up more easily clipping the top BR (shared with 'Afternoon Delight') on the way to the summit and rap chains.

Set by Alister Robbie (grade 20 version with big jug at start), 1993

FA: Neil Monteith (Grade 22 version after jug fell off!), 1994

2
22 The Pillar Connection Sport 15m, 4

Start as for 'Midnight Makeout'.

A traversing link-up. Climb up & R clipping:

FA: Neil Monteith, 1995

3
18 Afternoon Delight Sport 7m, 3

Start 2m to the R of 'Midnight Makeout'. Straight up clipping 2 FHs then a BR. The BR is shared with 'Midnight Makeout'. This route was originally equipped by Darrin Carter but Neil stole the first ascent by soloing the line. Naughty boy.

Set by Darrin Carter, 1993

FA: Neil Monteith (solo), 1993

4
19 * Dawn Raid Sport 9m, 3

Start 2m to the R of & 2m down from 'Afternoon Delight'.

Climb past a FH, a BR and another FH tending slightly L. The 1st bolt is high but can be preclipped leaning in from the L. Potential for groundfalls higher up too so take care.

FA: Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen, 1994

5
18 Morning Madness Sport 10m, 4

Start 2m R of & a bit down from 'Dawn Raid'. The rightmost line of bolts on 'Owl Pillar'. Follow the line of 4 BRs to the summit. Well protected compared to some of the routes on the pillar.

FA: Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen, 1995

6
4 Easy Solo Trad 13m

The easy scramble up the back of 'Owl Pillar'.

FA: An Indigenous fella