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Description

A freestanding pillar bearing a remarkable resemblance to an owl. Has 4 short but fun sport routes and an easy trad climb up the back that can be soloed and used to setup topropes off the summit rap chains (please use your own biners to avoid anchor wear).

Climbs are listed left to right.

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach

30m south-east from 'Flat Battery Wall'.

Descent notes

Most routes have dedicated lower-off anchors and there is also a set of summit rap chains on top of the pillar which can be used to descend from all the climbs, with varying degrees of equalisation.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

History

View timeline of historical ascents

The original easy route up the backside was most likely climbed by an enthusiastic 'brave' from the local aboriginal tribe thousands of years ago to impress a girl. Locals have been continuing the tradition ever since - with various degrees of success. In the early 90s Darrin Carter placed a chain on the summit and a couple of bolts down what would become Afternoon Delight. But in a particularly brattish move teenage Neil Monteith soloed the first ascent before Darrin got back up the mountain again. Amazingly he didn't get decked for this. Monty bolted a further three routes on the pillar. Some of these routes were also soloed, including Midnight Makeout which originally had a big jug just over the lip. Luckily this jug ripped off when someone was leading the route - not soloing it! In 2015 some of the routes were rebolted with extra bolts to make things a bit saner.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1
4 Easy Route Trad 13m

The easy climb up the slabby back of 'Owl Pillar' starting off the ledge just left of Midnight Makeout.

FA: An Indigenous fella

2
22 * Midnight Makeout Sport 7m, 3

Start at the leftmost line of bolts on 'Owl Pillar'. Compulsory stickclip the 1st bolt due to the uneven ground and steep dropoff to the L. Pull up the overhanging start (crux) past the 1st FH then clip the 2nd FH. Continue up more easily clipping the top BR (shared with 'Afternoon Delight') on the way to the summit and rap chains. The bolts on this route are still the original carrots bolts so take care. No dogging please.

Set by Alister Robbie (grade 20 version with big jug at start), 1993

FA: Neil Monteith (Grade 22 version after jug fell off!), 1994

3
22 * The Pillar Connection Sport 15m, 4

A traversing link-up. Climb up & R clipping: * 1st bolt (FH) on 'Midnight Makeout' * 2nd bolt (FH) on 'Afternoon Delight' * 3rd bolt (BR) on 'Dawn Raid' * final bolt (BR) on 'Morning Madness'

FA: Neil Monteith, 1995

4
18 * Afternoon Delight Sport 7m, 3

Start 2m to the R of 'Midnight Makeout'. Straight up clipping 2 FHs then a BR. The BR is shared with 'Midnight Makeout'. This route was originally equipped by Darrin Carter but Neil stole the first ascent by soloing the line. Naughty boy. The bolts on this route are still the original carrots bolts so take care. No dogging please.

Set by Darrin Carter, 1993

FA: Neil Monteith (solo), 1993

5
19 ** Dawn Raid Sport 9m, 3

Best route on the pillar - sustained. Start 2m to the R of & 2m down from 'Afternoon Delight'. Stickclip high first bolt from ledge on the left but start the climb down right. 3 shiny new RBs to lower-offs. Retrobolted (with permission) 2015. Take care clipping the 2nd bolt, as there has been at least one ground fall.

FA: Neil Monteith & Marten Blumen, 1994

6
18 * Morning Madness Sport 10m, 4

Start 2m R of & a bit down from 'Dawn Raid'. The rightmost line of bolts on 'Owl Pillar'. Follow the line of 4 RBs to lower-off on the right. This route is a bit mossy. Rebolted 2015.

FA: Neil Monteith & Marten Blumen, 1995

Activity

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