The Lower Main Cliff Rock climbing27 routes in cliff
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A long and varied wall with some excellent sport routes, including the mega classic 'Absentia' and the pump-fest 'Acid'. There's also some trad routes in the easier grades but they tend to be quite "adventurous" so take care.
There's a few carrots (BRs) scattered amongst the bolts so carry bolt plates.
Climbs are listed left to right.
Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains
'The Lower Main Cliff' starts directly opposite 'Owl Pillar' where it is soon split by the 'Acid' ravine. A rough track continues past the ravine along the base of the cliff for 5-10 minutes with climbs scattered intermittently along the way. 'Claustrophilia' and 'Watch your Back Jack' are located in an isolated ravine found by following the trail above the 'closed cave', then walking approx 50mtrs through the bush to a big rock knob - abseil in.
Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains
Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.
Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!
New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.
Check out what is happening in The Lower Main Cliff.