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Description

A long and varied wall with some excellent sport routes, including the mega classic 'Absentia' and the pump-fest 'Acid'. There's also some trad routes in the easier grades but they tend to be quite "adventurous" so take care.

There's a few carrots (BRs) scattered amongst the bolts so carry bolt plates.

Climbs are listed left to right.

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach

'The Lower Main Cliff' starts directly opposite 'Owl Pillar' where it is soon split by the 'Acid' ravine. A rough track continues past the ravine along the base of the cliff for 5-10 minutes with climbs scattered intermittently along the way. 'Claustrophilia' and 'Watch your Back Jack' are located in an isolated ravine found by following the trail above the 'closed cave', then walking approx 50mtrs through the bush to a big rock knob - abseil in.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
7 Breakaway Trad 38m

Start directly opposite 'Midnight Makeout' on 'Owl Pillar'.

Up juggy groove then slab to finish at ledge.

FA: Ian Thomas, Dave Gilleson, 1971

2

Start 5m R of 'Breakaway'.

Up wide crack then trend L up slab to finish as per 'Breakaway'.

FA: Ian Thomas, Dave Gilleson, 1971

3
10 Vertical Cabbage Trad 41m

Start at the end of the 'Acid' ravine.

Awful chimney.

FA: Dave Gilleson, Ian Thomas, 1971

4
26 * Bum F**k Idaho Sport 20m

3m L of Acid. Bouldery for 3 bolts than up the corner feature, finishing at Acid's chains.

FA: Alex Straw, Rob Parer, 2011

5
28 ** Idaho Sunshine Sport 20m

Link up. Climb BFI for 3 bolts, then head R into latter half of Acid at its old, low finish.

6
27 *** Acid Sport 25m, 8

Start on the R face of the sharp ravine in 'The Lower Main Cliff' just past 'Owl Pillar'.

Stickclip the 1st RB then up the overhanging wall of the ravine past 4 more RBs. The climb originally finished here but now continues with hard technical moves past 3 FHs to anchor.

FA: Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen, 1994

FA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2000

7
26 * Acid VF Sport
8
7 Good Vibrations Trad 33m

Start 6m R of 'Acid' at the entrance to the ravine.

Juggy slab route with little protection. Rap from ledge with tree or continue up short wall to exit.

FA: Ian Thomas, Dave Gilleson, 1971

9
11 Trench Tactics Trad 35m

Start about 15m R of 'Good Vibrations'.

Climbs the opposite side of the 'Acid' buttress. Adequate pro but not so good.

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

10
23 Claustrophilia Sport 12m, 7

Located in the steep ravine found by walking above the cave. Look for the big rock knob - ab anchors on the side. Safely bolted (close) due to proximity of back wall. Makes anyone whining about the acid back wall look like a total pansy! Shame, as the features and climbing are excellent, and this would be a rad sport wall were it not in a narrow ravine! Long tricky moves at the start, jugs in the middle, followed by a hard crimpy crux guarding the anchors.

FFA: Kenny Walker, Shannon Keys, 2013

11
20 Watch Your Back Jack Mixed 18m, 4

Starts in the same ravine as 'Claustrophilia', at it's opening - hidden above the vegetated corner 15-20m R of 'Trench Tactics'. To find the ravine either climb up the easy slab from below (dodgy trad), or walk to its top from above 'The Cave (closed)' and rap down.

Stickclip 1st FH then use tree to gain start jugs. Up past 2nd FH, #1 or 1.5 SLCD placement and 2 more FHs to rap station.

FA: Lee Cujes, Menno Smits, 1999

12
22 Forsaken Sport 20m, 5

…but not forgotten. Several years earlier, Monteith placed a BR off to the R of this route but discarded it. It took the persistence (and jiggery-pokery!) of Box to get the line bolted and sent.

Start 50m or so R along the cliff from the 'Acid' area at some blocky orange roofs.

Five RBs lead up the overhanging orange rock. The climbing is quite bizarre. A rap station is located on the big ledge above and to the R of the last overhang.

FA: Phil Box, Stephen Parker, 2002

13
25 Full Monty Sport 15m, 8

Start 2m R of Forsaken beneath deep orange shield of rock and steepest overhang. Up you go.

FA: Lee Cujes, Sam Cujes, 2013

14
16 R Cardiac Arrest Trad 30m

Start 5m R of 'Forsaken' on the black rock.

Poor rock with minimal protection.

FA: Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen, 1994

15
18 Summer Holiday Sport 24m, 5

Start about 10m R of 'Forsaken'.

Up slab clipping hard-to-spot BR, then overhung climbing past 3 FHs. Past a final BR to chains.

FA: Darrin Carter, 1998

16
22 Biyatch Pants Sport 25m, 5

Start 3m R of 'Summer Holiday'.

Climb slab passing RB to beneath large roof. Clip RB above. Strenuously crank over the roof (to the R of the RB) with little finesse to clip RB. Wipe forehead, then move up and L to join 'Summer Holiday' at its third bolt. Note that the final bolt on 'SH' is a BR so a bolt plate is needed.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2002

17
21 * Serenade For Rings Sport 17m, 5

Start 3m R of 'Biyatch Pants' at featured arête.

Slab up the arête past RB to top (retro BR). Swing straight up onto headwall (RB). Committing, sporty climbing straight up the headwall passing two more RBs to rap station on ledge.

FA: Lee Cujes, Samantha Cujes, Stephen Parker, 2002

18

Start as for 'Serenade For Rings'.

Don't clip the retro BR at the top of the 'SFR' slab. Instead head R and up past 3 RBs. Finish at the anchors shared with 'SFR'.

FA: Lee Cujes, Neil Monteith, 1999

19
16 R Xposure Trad 45m

Start at the 'Present And Accounted For' rap anchor. Note: Currently not climbable after Darrin Carter stole the hangers in the 90s. Stay off until fixed protection is replaced. You can link this with PAAF to create the longest route on Ngungun. From the station, climb slab on L past two FH’s (chopped) to overhung wall. Place high blind #4 Rock and up wall past FH (chopped) to arrive at slab. Up and slightly R past two more FH’s (chopped) and big runouts to arrive at tree-lined ledge. Walk off. The first ascent was done ground-up with handrill at night with only headlamps to light the way!

FA: Gay Welders Union, 1998

20
10 R Linkage Trad 15m

Start at the 'Present And Accounted For' anchor.

Traverse R and up to finish at the 'Absentia' anchor. No protection.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1998

21
17 AWOL Sport 18m, 4

Start 5m L of 'Absentia'.

Up past flake and small bulge passing 4 UBs to DBB.

FA: Tom Kjaer-Olsen, 2010

22
17 ** Absentia Sport 20m, 5

The original and classic easy sport route in the Glasshouse Mtns. Start about 15m R of 'Present And Accounted For' at pocketed water-worn runnel. If it has just rained don't bother - this route follows a waterfall groove! Most consider this a sandbag. 3 RBs & 2 FHs to rap chain.

FA: Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen, 1994

23
18 Old Scholars Sport 20m, 6

Start 2m R of 'Absentia'.

Juggy wall with a tricky layback flake start through bulge. At 5th bolt step L to join 'Absentia', clipping its final bolt and finishing at its DBB.

FA: Neil Monteith, Gareth Llewellin, 2008

24
12 R Dog's Balls Trad 50m

Start at the DBB at the top of 'Absentia'.

Up the wide groove above 'Absentia'. Limited protection.

FA: Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen, Dave Hall, Alister Robbie, 1994

25
15 Kicking Brass Mixed 50m, 3

Start at gully 10m R of 'Absentia'.

  1. 15m (3) Up R-leading gully slinging two trees as pro, then climb directly up the easy slab to tree and ledge (natural belay in pockets).

  2. 35m (15) Many of the pockets take gear (mostly hexes), so take a full rack. Diagonally L off the belay to good wire before wide crack, then up to bulge. Go L to avoid the bulge and up to second bulge. Resist temptation to trend R up ramp - instead go L through bulge to pro. Directly up black rock to FH. From here the line is direct up the steep juggy wall passing a crucial #6 hex pocket and second FH. Once on the upper slab, clip the last FH and traverse 5m R along ledge to chains.

FA: 1. Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen, 1994

FA: 2. Lee Cujes, Philippa Newton, 1999

26
15 * Get Into The Groove Mixed 50m, 6

Start as for 'Kicking Brass'.

  1. 15m (3) As per 1st pitch of 'Kicking Brass'.

  2. 35m (15) Slightly L, then R up white corner to mini-rooflet (3 FHs). Over this, then runout slab to headwall. Up this beautifully scooped groove passing 3 FHs to chains.

FA: Lee Cujes, Menno Smits, 1999