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Access Issues: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach:

The main cliff is situated on the southern side of Ngungun and is just below the summit. To get to the base of this impressive wall continue past the Cave on the walking track to the summit. Once at the halfway plateau/lookout continue about 125m up the main track until a small white arrow on a rock marks a faint track leading off L (before the turtle-shell rock). Leave the main path here and follow the vague path L and then down and around to the base of the Main Cliff. This path is quite hard to find now and it is a bit of a bush bash. The easiest descent from Ngungun's summit to the base of the main wall is via a 50m rap from the rap chains above Pocket Full Of Kryptonite (there are two intermediate rap stations if required).

Ethic: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Classical Gas

Good old-fashioned climbing. Marked 'CG'. Bridge up the corner until situated on top of the pillar. Step L and climb the juggy groove to a TB. Climb out, or you may wish to bring tape to rap off. Good protection.

FA: Steve Bell, Barry Overs, 1971

16
Trad 27m
2 * Carpe Jugular
17
Unknown 45m
3 ** Visions Of A Transmitter

This obvious twin cracked corner 5m L of Classical Gas soars upwards for 30m until confronted by a roof. Traverse R (or climb R through this) and climb the juggy face to finish. Beautiful, well protected climbing.

FA: Marten Blumen, Dan Meyers, 1994

18
Trad 45m
4 *** Visions Of A Transmitter DF
18
Unknown
5 ** Ensorcelled

It's magic! Classic, sustained climbing with excellent protection. Climb Icehouse past the tree at 5m to ledge on R. Climb the skyrocketing corner directly above the ledge to roof. R through this (big hex) and directly up the wide crack above.

FA: Lee Cujes, Philippa Newton, 1999

17
Trad 45m
6 *** Icehouse

Start: Start 2m L of Visions Of A Transmitter below the tree at 5m. A superb climb up an exposed face crack which is easier than it looks. Climb the juggy face for 40m until the final crack section makes things a little tricky. Belay off chains. The protection is good, but because the rock is a bit weak, be sure to place a lot and make sure it's bomber.

FA: Tony Dignan, Steve Bell, 1975

15
Trad 45m
7 Six Sided Hell
20
Unknown 45m
8 Hex Heaven
16
Unknown 50m
9 Sticky Fingers
12
Unknown 18m
10 Angie
13
Unknown 18m
11 * Bloodsucker
18
Unknown 45m
12 ** Pocket Full Of Kryptonite

Start: From the summit of 'Mt Ngungun' walk west along the ridge towards Mts Coonowrin & Beerwah for about 50m until a pair of chains are found. Rap off these to a ledge with DBB about halfway down the cliff.

From the ledge climb straight up past 5 BRs to the rap chains.

FA: Darrin Carter, Darren Watter, 1993

17
Sport 12m , 5
13 * Witch Hunt
21
Unknown 15m
14 * Tower Of Power
16
Unknown 20m
15 Keyhole
6
Unknown 44m
16 Feeling Groovy
15
Unknown 40m
17 Feeling Groovy VF
15
Unknown
18 Heartache
17
Unknown 38m
19 Stand To
16
Unknown 40m
20 Deep Purple
13
Trad 25m
21 Leaning Tower
14
Unknown 27m
22 Rubber Soul
15
Trad 45m
23 Gyroscope
15
Unknown 45m
24 Speed King
21
Unknown 45m
25 Marathon
18
Unknown 45m
26 Baby Driver
19
Unknown 25m
27 Carmen Revisited
16
Unknown 42m
28 Fallen Knight
17
Unknown 25m
29 Previous Commitment
17
Unknown 42m
30 * Bridge Over Troubled Waters
15
Unknown 42m
31 ** CUFA
16
Unknown 40m
32 Not Recommended For Children
18
Unknown 35m
33 Cantankerous Cantelope
17
Unknown 35m
34 Gone Cruisin'
17
Unknown 30m
35 Bourgeois Bullshitter
17
Unknown 30m
36 ** Feargrounds For Insanity
24
Unknown 20m
37 Stop The Bus
17
Unknown 25m
38 Strawberry Fields
22
Unknown 25m
39 Ultra Violet Catastrophe
14
Unknown 23m
40 Alchemist
5
Unknown 60m