The Upper Main Cliff Mostly trad climbing43 routes in area
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Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains
Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.
The main cliff is situated on the southern side of Ngungun and is just below the summit.
The access to the bottom is now slightly easier since the walking trail has been upgraded. To get to the base of this impressive wall follow the path past where it turns left near the Cave. When the path turns back right you should see a fairly obvious climbers trail with some markers in front of you - the cliff will also be visible from this point. Follow this trail to meet the cliff near the right end of the Upper Main Cliffs/left end of the Nursery Cliffs.
Another option is to descend from Ngungun's summit to the base of the main wall. This is via a 50m rap from the rap chains above Pocket Full Of Kryptonite (there are two intermediate rap stations if required).
Routes are listed from right to left.
Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains
Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.
Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!
New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.
The obvious crack 5m left of Classic Gas where the track meets the rock, just above the "rings of shame". Up the crack with good pro to the ledge. Sling the pillar on the far left with care and belay. Rap from the sling.
FFA: B. Cobb, 2014
A mini-adventure fun ramble of vintage accent that takes you from the bottom of the Main Upper Cliffs to the summit proper. May well have been soloed before. The route is the most intuitive and protectable line from beginning to end. Please refrain to trundle blocks, the instability and precariousness over the exposure of some section add a great alpine-like feel to the route.
15m (13, crux) Start 1m left of 'The Revenge of Chossmaster' up to ledge and TB on gear.
25m (5) Traverse up and diagonally to the right with enjoyable exposure, negotiating some death blocks and grassy ledges with fair pro for 15m then 10m up to a giant bird nest belay. TB on gear.
10m (-) Traverse diagonally left past a solid steelwood tree and up to the 'Nursery Cliffs' ledge. TB.
28m (10) Start 1m left of 'LRO' up 3m then step left on hidden juggy wall and climb up on exposed vertical face until topping out at the summit proper of Ngungun. Sling the boulders and TB.
FFA: B. Cobb, C. Brazzelli, 2014
Good old-fashioned climbing. Marked 'CG'. Bridge up the corner until situated on top of the pillar. Step L and climb the juggy groove to a TB. Good protection.
Considering bringing some tat and some new mallions if you are planning on abseiling off. As of August 2013 the existing anchor tat is looking very sad and the mallions very rusted. A more permanent solution could be a chain around the pillar.
FA: Steve Bell, Barry Overs, 1971
FA: L. Cujes, P. Newton, 1999