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Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach

The main cliff is situated on the southern side of Ngungun and is just below the summit.

The access to the bottom is now slightly easier since the walking trail has been upgraded. To get to the base of this impressive wall follow the path past where it turns left near the Cave. When the path turns back right you should see a fairly obvious climbers trail with some markers in front of you - the cliff will also be visible from this point. Follow this trail to meet the cliff near the right end of the Upper Main Cliffs/left end of the Nursery Cliffs.

Another option is to descend from Ngungun's summit to the base of the main wall. This is via a 50m rap from the rap chains above Pocket Full Of Kryptonite (there are two intermediate rap stations if required).

Routes are listed from right to left.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1

The obvious crack 5m left of Classic Gas where the track meets the rock, just above the "rings of shame". Up the crack with good pro to the ledge. Sling the pillar on the far left with care and belay. Rap from the sling.

FFA: B. Cobb, 2014

2
13 The Chossmaster Trad 78m

A mini-adventure fun ramble of vintage accent that takes you from the bottom of the Main Upper Cliffs to the summit proper. May well have been soloed before. The route is the most intuitive and protectable line from beginning to end. Please refrain to trundle blocks, the instability and precariousness over the exposure of some section add a great alpine-like feel to the route.

  1. 15m (13, crux) Start 1m left of 'The Revenge of Chossmaster' up to ledge and TB on gear.

  2. 25m (5) Traverse up and diagonally to the right with enjoyable exposure, negotiating some death blocks and grassy ledges with fair pro for 15m then 10m up to a giant bird nest belay. TB on gear.

  3. 10m (-) Traverse diagonally left past a solid steelwood tree and up to the 'Nursery Cliffs' ledge. TB.

  4. 28m (10) Start 1m left of 'LRO' up 3m then step left on hidden juggy wall and climb up on exposed vertical face until topping out at the summit proper of Ngungun. Sling the boulders and TB.

FFA: B. Cobb, C. Brazzelli, 2014

3
16 Classical Gas Trad 27m

Good old-fashioned climbing. Marked 'CG'. Bridge up the corner until situated on top of the pillar. Step L and climb the juggy groove to a TB. Good protection.

Considering bringing some tat and some new mallions if you are planning on abseiling off. As of August 2013 the existing anchor tat is looking very sad and the mallions very rusted. A more permanent solution could be a chain around the pillar.

FA: Steve Bell, Barry Overs, 1971

4

This a nice line, I suspect it has been done before. Climb CG to the tree mantle, step left to next corner. Finish at CG anchors, possibly slightly trickier to protect in spots than CG.

5
17 Carpe Jugular Trad 45m

FA: L. Cujes, P. Newton, 1999

6

This obvious twin cracked corner 5m L of Classical Gas soars upwards for 30m until confronted by a roof. Traverse R (or climb R through this) and climb the juggy face to finish. Beautiful, well protected climbing.

FA: Marten Blumen, Dan Meyers, 1994

7

FA: N. Monteith, M. Blumen, 1995

8
17 ** Ensorcelled Trad 45m

It's magic! Classic, sustained climbing with excellent protection. Climb Icehouse past the tree at 5m to ledge on R. Climb the skyrocketing corner directly above the ledge to roof. R through this (big hex) and directly up the wide crack above.

FA: Lee Cujes, Philippa Newton, 1999

9
15 *** Icehouse Trad 45m

Start: Start 2m L of Visions Of A Transmitter below the tree at 5m. A superb climb up an exposed face crack which is easier than it looks. Climb the juggy face for 40m until the final crack section makes things a little tricky. Belay off chains. The protection is good, but because the rock is a bit weak, be sure to place a lot and make sure it's bomber.

FA: Tony Dignan, Steve Bell, 1975

10
20 Six Sided Hell Trad 45m

FA: L. Cujes, E. Smith, 1999

11
16 Hex Heaven Trad 50m

FA: R. Scott, 1991

12
12 Sticky Fingers Trad 18m

Up the small slab 4m left of Icehouse to the crack with good protection to the tree ledge.

FA: D. Kahler, S. Bell, 1970

13
13 Angie Trad 18m

Set by S. Bell, B. Overs, D. Gilleson, 1971

14
18 Bloodsucker Trad 45m

FA: D. Kahler, S. Bell, 1972

FFA: D. Carter, J. Hattink, 1993

15

Start: From the summit of 'Mt Ngungun' walk west along the ridge towards Mts Coonowrin & Beerwah for about 50m until a pair of chains are found. Rap off these to a ledge with DBB about halfway down the cliff.

From the ledge climb straight up past 5 BRs to the rap chains.

FA: Darrin Carter, Darren Watter, 1993

16
21 * Witch Hunt Trad 15m

FA: N. Monteith, 1996

17
16 * Tower Of Power Trad 20m
18
6 Keyhole Trad 44m
19
15 Feeling Groovy Trad 40m
21
17 Heartache Trad 38m
22
16 Stand To Trad 40m
23
13 * Deep Purple Trad 25m

Start at DP mark up corner crack and good protection to ledge.

24
14 Leaning Tower Trad 27m
25
15 Rubber Soul Trad 45m

Pitch 1 from RS mark up pockets and cracks to ledge (weak tree or bomber gear in crack belay). Pitch 2 up in the chimney.

26
15 Gyroscope Trad 45m
27
21 Speed King Trad 45m
28
18 Marathon Trad 45m
29
19 Baby Driver Trad 25m
30
16 Carmen Revisited Trad 42m
31
17 Fallen Knight Trad 25m
32
34
16 ** CUFA Trad 40m

Set by Unknown, 1970

35

Set by D. Kahler, S. Bell, 1970

36

Set by D. Kahler, S. Bell, 1970

37
17 Gone Cruisin' Trad 30m

Set by S. Bell, D. Kahler, 1970

38

Set by S. Bell, D. Kahler, 1970

39

Set by N. Monteith, M. Blumen, D. Carter, 1994

40
17 Stop The Bus Trad 25m

Set by S. Bell, D. Kahler, 1970

41
22 Strawberry Fields Trad 25m

Set by S. Bell, D. Kahler, 1970

42

Set by D. Kahler, S. Bell, 1972

43
5 Alchemist Trad 60m

The scramble on small broken pillars and bush at the far left of the main wall, marked "A" that follows the exposed crest to the summit of Ngungun.