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Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach

The main cliff is situated on the southern side of Ngungun and is just below the summit.

The access to the bottom is now slightly easier since the walking trail has been upgraded. To get to the base of this impressive wall follow the path past where it turns left near the Cave. When the path turns back right you should see a fairly obvious climbers trail with some markers in front of you - the cliff will also be visible from this point. Follow this trail to meet the cliff near the right end of the Upper Main Cliffs/left end of the Nursery Cliffs.

Another option is to descend from Ngungun's summit to the base of the main wall. This is via a 50m rap from the rap chains above Pocket Full Of Kryptonite (there are two intermediate rap stations if required).

Routes are listed from right to left.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1

The obvious crack 5m left of Classic Gas where the track meets the rock, just above the "rings of shame". Up the crack with good pro to the ledge. Sling the pillar on the far left with care and belay. Rap from the sling.

FFA: B. Cobb, 2014

2
13 * The Chossmaster Trad 78m 4

A mini-adventure fun ramble of vintage accent that takes you from the bottom of the Main Upper Cliffs to the summit proper. May well have been soloed before. The route is the most intuitive and protectable line from beginning to end. Please refrain to trundle blocks, the instability and precariousness over the exposure of some section add a great alpine-like feel to the route.

  1. 15m (13, crux) Start 1m left of 'The Revenge of Chossmaster' up to ledge and TB on gear.

  2. 25m (5) Traverse up and diagonally to the right with enjoyable exposure, negotiating some death blocks and grassy ledges with fair pro for 15m then 10m up to a giant bird nest belay. TB on gear.

  3. 10m (-) Traverse diagonally left past a solid steelwood tree and up to the 'Nursery Cliffs' ledge. TB.

  4. 28m (10) Start 1m left of 'LRO' up 3m then step left on hidden juggy wall and climb up on exposed vertical face until topping out at the summit proper of Ngungun. Sling the boulders and TB.

FFA: B. Cobb & C. Brazzelli, 2014

3
16 * Classical Gas Trad 27m

Good old-fashioned climbing. Marked 'CG'. Bridge up the corner until situated on top of the pillar. Step L and climb the juggy groove to a TB. Good protection.

Considering bringing some tat and some new mallions if you are planning on abseiling off. As of August 2013 the existing anchor tat is looking very sad and the mallions very rusted. A more permanent solution could be a chain around the pillar.

FA: Steve Bell & Barry Overs, 1971

4

This a nice line, I suspect it has been done before. Climb CG to the tree mantle, step left to next corner. Finish at CG anchors, possibly slightly trickier to protect in spots than CG.

5
17 * Carpe Jugular Trad 45m 2

An exciting multi-pitch, and the first of four classic long routes. The second pitch makes a great rap-in climb.

  1. 17m (17) Start up Visions of a Transmitter, then traverse right at about 15m to stand on top of the fern ledge (DBB).

  2. 28m (15) Layback through small roof on right, and up corner (FH) to ledge. Clip second FH on steep black wall and crank through on big pockets. Up the featured crack and face to finish at tree belay.

FA: L. Cujes & P. Newton, 1999

6

This obvious twin cracked corner 5m L of Classical Gas soars upwards for 30m until confronted by a roof. Traverse R (or climb R through this) and climb the juggy face to finish. Beautiful, well protected climbing.

FA: Marten Blumen & Dan Meyers, 1994

7

Climb 'Visions Of A Transmitter' until you reach the roof, then jug haul directly through this with surprising exposure!

FA: N. Monteith & M. Blumen, 1995

8
17 ** Ensorcelled Trad 45m

It's magic! Classic, sustained climbing with excellent protection. Climb Icehouse past the tree at 5m to ledge on R. Climb the skyrocketing corner directly above the ledge to roof. R through this (big hex) and directly up the wide crack above.

FA: Lee Cujes & Philippa Newton, 1999

9
15 *** Icehouse Trad 45m

Start: Start 2m L of Visions Of A Transmitter below the tree at 5m. A superb climb up an exposed face crack which is easier than it looks. Climb the juggy face for 40m until the final crack section makes things a little tricky. Belay off chains. The protection is good, but because the rock is a bit weak, be sure to place a lot and make sure it's bomber.

FA: Tony Dignan & Steve Bell, 1975

10
20 ** Six Sided Hell Trad 45m

Start 1m R of 'Sticky Fingers'. Up slab to shaft. Up this with awkward placements to ledge. Clip FH and blast through bulge. Continue up shaft on RP's, small wires and a FH to ledge. Finish directly up 'Hex Heaven' 's flared corner.

FA: L. Cujes & E. Smith, 1999

11
16 Hex Heaven Trad 50m

Start 1m right of 'Sticky Fingers'. Climb this to its belay tree. Sling this and traverse 2m R onto arete. Up left side of this on good holds up limited protection to pillar. Finish up the namesake flaring corner to tree belay. A somewhat contrived offering since the addition of 'Six Sided Hell'.

FA: R. Scott, 1991

12
12 Sticky Fingers Trad 18m

Up the small slab 4m left of Icehouse to the crack with good protection to the tree ledge.

FA: D. Kahler & S. Bell, 1970

13
13 * Angie Trad 18m

Marked 'A'. Just L of 'Sticky Fingers' at the obvious flared chimney. Bridge chimney with good pro in the R crack to the ledge and tree or continue up 'Hex Heaven'.

Set by S. Bell, B. Overs & D. Gilleson, 1971

14
18 * Bloodsucker Trad 45m

Marked 'B'.

  1. 15m (10) Climb the easy twin grooves to the L of 'Angie' to tree belay.

  2. 30m (18) Up onto top of short pillar, then fire directly up the face above with minimal pr until the juggy face crack is reached. Climb this great crack line to the top and tree belay.

FA: D. Kahler & S. Bell, 1972

FFA: D. Carter & J. Hattink, 1993

15
21 ** Witch Hunt Trad 15m

Start at the thin crack running up the blunt pillar 4m to the R of 'Keyhole' 's leaning pillar. Climb straight up the pillar with difficulty, then traverse L to the ledge below the start of 'Pocket Full Of Kryptonite'. 2 FH's and small cams.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1996

16
6 ** Keyhole Trad 44m

Marked 'KH'. Scramble up the vegetated gully to the base of the leaning pillar which forms a chimney. Climb up and inwards to the 'keyhole' and squeeze through this with difficulty. Bush bash upwards to a tree belay. Leave this one for the bushwalkers!

FA: Dennis Stocks, Bob Fick & Darryl Poole, 1967

17
16 * Tower Of Power Trad 20m

This novel route climbs the outside of 'Keyhole' 's leaning pillar. Access by 'Bloodsucker' 's first pitch or rapping in from 'Pocket Full Of Kryptonite' 's chains. Belay on R of pillar's base. Scramble up right to clip first FH, but route is best started directly from the base of the pillar. Balancy start passing 2 FH's, then natural gear to top. Scramble up 3m to belay at base of 'Pocket Full Of Kryptonite'.

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

18

Start: From the summit of 'Mt Ngungun' walk west along the ridge towards Mts Coonowrin & Beerwah for about 50m until a pair of chains are found. Rap off these to a ledge with DBB about halfway down the cliff.

From the ledge climb straight up past 5 BRs to the rap chains.

FA: Darrin Carter & Darren Watter, 1993

19
15 * Feeling Groovy Trad 40m

"Havin' some fun...". Marked 'FG'. Straight up the deep hand crack which becomes very vegetated at the top. Finish easily up blocks. Good pro but poor climbing. Belay off tree.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Steve Bell, 1973

20

From the second stance on 'Feeling Groovy' take the L trending crack and the finish up the top of 'Heartache'.

FA: Col Smithies & Betty Margetts, 1990

21
17 Heartache Trad 38m

Marked 'H'. The start offers good climbing with a nice hand crack but soon the climb deteriorates to the likeness of its two predecessors.

FA: Steve Bell & Dave Kahler

22
16 Stand To Trad 40m

Marked 'ST'. A contrived hand crack which becomes very vegetated. Not great.

FA: Dave Kahler & Steve Bell

23
13 * Deep Purple Trad 25m

Marked 'DP'. Up corner crack and good protection to ledge.

FA: Steve Bell & Dave Kahler, 1972

24
14 * Leaning Tower Trad 27m

Marked 'LT'. Start up the nice hand crack but this soon turns in a wide off-width. At the widest point, squeeze through the crack and chimney up to ledge. Rap off or continue up one of the crack lines above.

FA: Steve Bell & Dave Kahler, 1972

25
15 * Rubber Soul Trad 45m 2

Marked 'RS'.

  1. Up fun pockets and cracks to ledge and the weak tree belay. Bomber gear in crack for a belay.

  2. Up the easy chimney.

FA: Steve Bell, Dave Kahler & Bob Bell, 1972

26
15 ** Gyroscope Trad 45m

Marked 'G'. Juggy climbing up the groove to a grass tree blocking the corner. Climb around this and up easy crack to finish. Good protection throughout most of this long route.

FA: Dave Kahler & Steve Bell

27
21 Speed King Trad 45m

Marked "SK'. An impressive route for back in the day. Hard and desperate climbing up the thin shallow crack leads to easier ground and the good crack above. Be careful with protection down low.

FA: Dave Kahler & Steve Bell, 1973

28
18 Marathon Trad 45m

Marked 'M'. Desperate bridging up the under-protected flared chimney leads to easier ground. Take many small cams and wires.

FA: Dave Kahler & Steve Bell

29
19 Baby Driver Trad 25m

Marked 'BD'. Bold face climbing up the blank wall with only small RP's as protection. Once past the first 10m, it eases to fairly juggy climbing and a tree belay.

FA: Barry Overs, 1970

FFA: Neil Monteith, 1994

30
16 Carmen Revisited Trad 42m

Marked 'CR'. Up the broken wall with good protection to a small corner. Climb this past a chockstone and onto a ledge. Bridge up the hard chimney on the L and surmount the overhang to another stance. Finish up the twin cracks to a tree belay.

FA: Dave Kahler & Steve Bell

31
17 Fallen Knight Trad 25m

Marked 'FK'. A nice looking crack but the climbing is only average. Finish on halfway ledge of "Carmen Revisited" and rap off.

FA: Dave Kahler & Steve Bell

32

Marked 'PC'. A very contrived thin hand crack which eventually joins 'Bridge Over Troubled Waters'. If you can avoid the temptation to stray, this climb is quite hard and sustained.

FA: Steve Bell & Dave Kahler

33

Marked 'BOTW'. Easy crack climbing leads to a stance at the section of missing pillar. Traverse right into 'Previous Commitment' and bridge boldly up the twin cracks. Above this, climb the tricky twin cracks to finish. Jamming technique useful.

FA: Barry Overs & Ron Collett, 1970

34
16 ** CUFA Trad 40m

Marked 'CUFA'. The off-width start sees few ascents and rightfully so. It features poor rock and discouraging thrutching. This wide crack eventually narrows down to a magnificent twin cracked corner in an exposed position.

FA: Unknown

Set by Unknown, 1970

35

Marked 'NRC'. A fluctuating crack which is only reasonably protected. At the roof traverse right into 'CUFA' 's excellent top half.

FA: Dave Kahler & Steve Bell

Set by D. Kahler & S. Bell, 1970

36

Marked 'CC'. Hard for the grade. Under-protected up a thin crack line to a ledge. From the ledge, climb crack system to top. A confident leader is required.

FA: Dave Kahler & Steve Bell

Set by D. Kahler & S. Bell, 1970

37
17 * Gone Cruisin' Trad 30m

Marked 'GC'. Hard for the grade. A bold and somewhat under-protected crack climb. This thin subtle corner requires confident crack work. Similar to 'Cantankerous Cantelope'.

FA: Steve Bell & Dave Kahler

Set by S. Bell & D. Kahler, 1970

38

Marked 'BB'. Boulder the start until the crack opens. Climb this under-protected groove to a small ledge. Finish up the corner above.

Set by S. Bell & D. Kahler, 1970

39
24 ** Feargrounds For Insanity Mixed 20m, 5

Start 2m L of 'Bourgeois Bullshitter'. A stonking line which is being loved to death. Pretty soon the holds will be worn off. Boulder to a high RB, then a hard move follows. Once on the small ledge, clip an RB then fire up the demanding face past another 2 RBs. Bridge above the last RB for 5m (natural pro) to ledge and anchors. Rap off.

Original carrot bolts replaced with ring bolts December 2015 by Safer Cliffs Queensland.

FA: Neil Monteith, Marten Blumen & Darrin Carter, 1994

40
17 Stop The Bus Trad 25m

Marked 'STB'. Start at the thin corner 2m L of 'Feargrounds For Insanity'. Up corner with suspect pr. Needs cleaning in the crack. Hard for the grade.

FA: Steve Bell & Dave Kahler

Set by S. Bell & D. Kahler, 1970

41
22 Strawberry Fields Trad 25m

Marked 'SF'. A very hard start up the thin twin cracks leads to an easier top half. Pro is sparse in the lower section so careful placements are needed.

FA: Steve Bell & Dave Kahler

Set by S. Bell & D. Kahler, 1970

42

Marked 'UVC'. Sunscreen optional. The obvious angled off-width on the right side of the leaning pillar. Good pro and sustained climbing all the way to a tree belay.

FA: Dave Kahler & Steve Bell, 1972

Set by D. Kahler & S. Bell, 1972

43
5 Alchemist Trad 60m

Marked 'A'. The enjoyable scramble on small broken pillars and bush at the far left of the main wall. Follows the exposed crest trending right across the tops of the other climbs for an exposed finish to the summit of Ngungun.

Activity

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