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Great little cliff that is just under vertical with plentiful jugs resulting in easy climbs with some nice exposure. Generally good gear provided by the cracks and pockets. Perfect beginner trad leader crag.

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.


Access the summit ridge via the tourist track. Walk along the ridge towards the summit. Drop down off the ridge to the left (south) at the ridge's low point where there is a detached pillar. A minute's steep scramble later and you're at the base.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.


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Grade Route

Marked 'RS'. Well named. Easy groove at far R of crag.

FA: Peter Leeson & Peter Burton, 1994

Marked 'DD'. Pocketed corner that gets progressively easier, with one small cam placement halfway up.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1995

Start 1m L of 'Dishonour Before Death'. Good climbing, and a much better version of 'Silver Lining'. Up black, L facing corner crack with increasingly reliable pro to meet 'Silver Lining' at lip of roof.

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

Up pillars past vegetation to base of large roof-capped corner. Up this with tricky pro on R wall and arete to roof. Through roof then up easily to top.

FA: Peter Leeson, 1993

FFA: Lee Cujes, 1999

Marked 'BL' for some reason. Up the flared chimney and over the roof. One bomber placement about two thirds of the way up the chimney and not much else.

FA: Lionel Hartley & Peter Barnes, 1992

Marked 'TL'. Juggy crack with minimal pr to ledge, then climb crack to top.

FA: Col Smithies & Betty Margetts, 1990

Marked 'SL'. Straight up crack with good gear to ledge. Finish up easy but poorly protected pocketed face as for 'Walk The Line'.

FA: Col Smithies & Betty Margetts, 1988

Marked 'WL'. The beginners classic! Up the juggy face crack with good pro to ledge. The top 4m tier is spectacularly pocketed, but poorly protected.

FA: Barry Overs, Steve Bell & Dave Gilleson,

Marked 'ML'. Up the crack, over the small bulge and up to top.

FA: Col Smithies & Betty Margetts, 1989

Marked 'CGA'. Pretty standard juggy climbing up to ledge, through mini rooflet, then up face crack above.

FA: Col Smithies, 1988

Marked 'CG'. Similar climbing to Cee Gee Also, but slightly harder.

FA: Steve Bell & Dave Kahler

Marked 'AL'. Good easy crack climbing up a nice groove.

FA: Col Smithies & Betty Margetts, 1980

Marked 'FL'. Up the crack right of ledge with tree on it.

FA: Col Smithies & Betty Margetts, 1989

Climb the pillar left of 'Fine Line' and continue on up. Good gear, however the pillar is not attached to the rest of the cliff by much and has reportedly been seen moving while being climbed.

FA: Peter Leeson & Col Smithies, 1989

Marked 'AT'. Pillar to sinuous thin crack, then past vegetation to steep juggy top.

FA: Col Smithies & Malcolm Argent, 1985

Marked 'A'. Up the crack then thrutch up the black squeeze chimney to finish. Removes plenty of knee skin!

FA: Unknown

Up between A and 'Ballsup' onto vegetated ledge. Mantle up and place high runner in A's crack, then fire directly up the shallow open-book corner with technical protection to finish up wide crack. Yes, it's contrived down low.

FA: Lee Cujes & Menno Smits, 1999

Marked 'B'. Climb up the R side of the pillar with poor pro to start, then R up the juggy face crack. Crux is poorly protected.

FA: Dave Kahler & Steve Bell

Start as for 'Ballsup', then bridge up the shallow chimney on the L using many big jugs.

FA: Col Smithis & Betty Margetts, 1990

Marked 'NL'. A reasonable line which lacks the bomber pro of some of the other climbs.

FA: Betty Margetts & Col Smithies, 1990

Marked 'CL'. Enjoyable but under-protected climbing. Take large cams.

FA: Betty Margetts & Col Smithies, 1990

Marked 'PL'. Another good lead for beginners. Up nice groove with adequate pro.

FA: Betty Margetts & Col Smithies, 1990

Marked 'LRO'. Trend up and to the left onto a very juggy white wall. Climb this to top with good pro. This climb has some of the biggest holds in South-East Queensland!

FA: Joy, Rhys Davies, Joy Davies, Tully Davies & Skye Davies, 1990


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