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Nursery Cliff All Trad climbing 23 routes in area

23
AU
5710131517

Seasonality

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Description

Great little cliff that is just under vertical with plentiful jugs resulting in easy climbs with some nice exposure. Generally good gear provided by the cracks and pockets. Perfect beginner trad leader crag. Trad anchors required.

Access issues inherited from Mt Ngungun

This mountain is very popular. Stay on tracks, don't poo at crags.

Approach

Continue past the access track to the Upper Cliffs. Take the tourist track to the summit ridge and almost all the way to the summit. About 30m before the summit, drop down off the ridge to the left (south) at the ridge's low point where there is a detached pillar. A minute's steep scramble later and you're at the base.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
10 Razor Sedge Trad 10m

Marked 'RS'. Well named. Easy groove at far R of crag.

FA: Peter Leeson & Peter Burton, 1994

2
13 ★ Dishonour Before Death Trad 10m

Marked 'DD'. Pocketed corner that gets progressively easier, with one small cam placement halfway up.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1995

3
17 ★ Flatliner Trad 15m

Start 1m L of 'Dishonour Before Death'. Good climbing, and a much better version of 'Silver Lining'. Up black, L facing corner crack with increasingly reliable pro to meet 'Silver Lining' at lip of roof.

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

4
16 ★ Silver Lining Trad 15m

Up pillars past vegetation to base of large roof-capped corner. Up this with tricky pro on R wall and arete to roof. Through roof then up easily to top.

FA: Peter Leeson, 1993

FFA: Lee Cujes, 1999

5
18 R ★ Hard Core Trad 15m

Marked 'BL' for some reason. Up the flared chimney and over the roof. One bomber placement about two thirds of the way up the chimney and not much else.

FA: Lionel Hartley & Peter Barnes, 1992

6
15 ★ Tree Line Trad 20m

Marked 'TL'. Juggy crack with minimal pr to ledge, then climb crack to top.

FA: Col Smithies & Betty Margetts, 1990

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7
9 ★ Side Line Trad 20m

Marked 'SL'. Straight up crack with good gear to ledge. Finish up easy but poorly protected pocketed face as for 'Walk The Line'.

FA: Col Smithies & Betty Margetts, 1988

8
8 ★ Walk The Line Trad 20m

Marked 'WL'. The beginners classic! Up the juggy face crack with good pro to ledge. The top 4m tier is spectacularly pocketed, but poorly protected.

FA: Barry Overs, Steve Bell & Dave Gilleson, 1970

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9
10 ★ Main Line Trad 20m

Marked 'ML'. Up the crack, over the small bulge and up to top.

FA: Col Smithies & Betty Margetts, 1989

10
7 ★ Cee Gee Also Trad 20m

Marked 'CGA'. Pretty standard juggy climbing up to ledge, through mini rooflet, then up face crack above.

FA: Col Smithies, 1988

11
8 ★ Cold Girl Trad 20m

Marked 'CG'. Similar climbing to Cee Gee Also, but slightly harder.

FA: Steve Bell & Dave Kahler

12
12 ★ Air Line Trad 20m

Marked 'AL'. Good easy crack climbing up a nice groove.

FA: Col Smithies & Betty Margetts, 1980

13
11 ★ Fine Line Trad 20m

Marked 'FL'. Up the crack right of ledge with tree on it.

FA: Col Smithies & Betty Margetts, 1989

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14
12 ★ Denim Trad 20m

Climb the pillar left of 'Fine Line' and continue on up. Good gear. The infamous "loose pillar" has been bolted to the cliff with room for gear behind.

FA: Peter Leeson & Col Smithies, 1989

15
10 ★ Angie Too Trad 20m

Marked 'AT'. Pillar to sinuous thin crack, then past vegetation to steep juggy top.

FA: Col Smithies & Malcolm Argent, 1985

16
13 ★ A Trad 20m

Marked 'A'. Up the crack then thrutch up the black squeeze chimney to finish. Removes plenty of knee skin!

FA: Unknown

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17
16 ★ Funky Bass Line Trad 20m

Up between A and 'Ballsup' onto vegetated ledge. Mantle up and place high runner in A's crack, then fire directly up the shallow open-book corner with technical protection to finish up wide crack. Yes, it's contrived down low.

FA: Lee Cujes & Menno Smits, 1999

18
11 ★ Ballsup Trad 20m

Marked 'B'. Climb up the R side of the pillar with poor pro to start, then R up the juggy face crack. Crux is poorly protected.

FA: Dave Kahler & Steve Bell

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19
7 Bee Line Trad 20m

Start as for 'Ballsup', then bridge up the shallow chimney on the L using many big jugs.

FA: Col Smithis & Betty Margetts, 1990

20
7 ★ Next In Line Trad 20m

Marked 'NL'. A reasonable line which lacks the bomber pro of some of the other climbs.

FA: Betty Margetts & Col Smithies, 1990

21
9 ★ Centre Line Trad 20m

Marked 'CL'. Enjoyable but under-protected climbing. Take large cams.

FA: Betty Margetts & Col Smithies, 1990

22
8 Plumb Line Trad 20m

Marked 'PL'. Another good lead for beginners. Up nice groove with adequate pro.

FA: Betty Margetts & Col Smithies, 1990

23
5 Left Right Out Trad 23m

Marked 'LRO'. Trend up and to the left onto a very juggy white wall. Climb this to top with good pro. This climb has some of the biggest holds in South-East Queensland!

FA: Joy, Rhys Davies, Joy Davies, Tully Davies & Skye Davies, 1990

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Queensland Bouldering

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

-5% Buy
ⓘ
South East Queensland Climbing Guide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Buy
ⓘ

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8 ★ Walk The Line

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Dan OS at Nursery Cliff - Dan on Walk The Line

Nursery Cliff - Nursery Cliffs

Mark Gamble at Nursery Cliff - Mark on Side Line

Dan OS at Nursery Cliff - Dan on Walk The Line

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