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Routes as sport in Babylon

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Showing all 19 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
11 As Thick As Two Planks Stuck Together With Stupid Glue

Start at blunt arete with line of RBs about 10m L of 'Acumen'.

Fun, well-protected beginner lead. Climb up slabby L-tending arete past 7 RBs to DBB.

FA: Ross Ferguson & Matt Williams, 2001

Sport 25m, 7
20 Rumble In The Jungle

Start where track from carpark reaches cliff, just right of the eponymous 'hanging garden' of ferns on the cliff. 2m L of 'Hijinx'.

Fun pumpy moves up overhanging wall past FH, BR, BR and FH finishing at DBB.

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

Sport 16m, 4
17 Hijinx

Start where track from carpark reaches cliff, 2m R of 'Rumble In The Jungle'.

Juggy but balancy climbing past FH, BR then FH to DBB.

FA: Lee Cujes & Philippa Newton, 1999

Sport 16m, 3
19 Gossamer Threads

Obvious tessellated wall & arete just a few meters R of 'Hijinx'.

Preclip 1st bolt by leaning in from ledge to R but start direct. Crimpy moves up smooth face past BR, FH and BR to DBB. Harder if you avoid holds on arete. The terrible original anchor is still in place as some old crap on carrots, please use the newer chain anchor to the right.

FA: Lee Cujes, 1999

Sport 13m, 3
15 The Mujahideen Of Firefighting

The corner right of gossamer threads. Was originally a semi-runout mixed route, but now is a not very runout sport route. Pretty good climbing once you get up into the business. Named after some RFS volunteers who fought bravely in black summer.

FA: Jan 2020

Sport 14m, 4
15 Poodle Coup

A really nice little climb with pleasant moves on nice rock. Commit! Start: about 2m right of TMOF. Up passing 4 bolts, then slightly right to anchors.

FA: Nov 2019

Sport 13m, 4
14 How To Make Gravy

Another lovely little sport route. A false overhang gives it a steep feel. FA’d on gravy day. Start: about 2m right of PC. Up passing 4 bolts, then trend slightly left to anchors.

FA: 21 Dec 2019

Sport 13m, 4
16 Night Of The Living Fossil

Nice climbing above a strange start. Commit to the side-pulls and you’ll get there. There's no need to disturb the aromatic plectranthus growing near the bottom, so don't.

FA: 2020

Sport 18m, 7
13 Quango Quagmire

A bit manky but fun. The first line of FH's on the wall. The start is easier but less fun if going up from the right. Some long draws/runners help with rope drag at the top section

Sport 18m, 7
12 Damp Times At Babylon High

Follows the obvious weakness & 4 FHs, up left of dang fool. Fun moves up to a committing finish. Now with easy to use anchor.

FA: Christine Lethbridge & Matt Pelekanos

FFA: Matt Pelekanos, 6 Apr 2019

Sport 16m, 4
13 Damp Fool

A linkup that avoids the thin start of Dang Fool. Start up DTABH, veer right at first FH to RB, cruxy move to 2nd RB, over bulge to DBB on DF.

Sport 10m, 2
14 Dang Fool

Nice thin moves past highish RB. Continue past 2nd RB to DBB.

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2002

Sport 10m, 2
13 Fool's Errand

Start 3m R of Dang Fool. Fun moves around a steepish bulge that's easier than it looks!

FA: Lee Cujes, 2004

Sport 15m, 4
14 Heinzinator

Start 5m R of 'Fool's Errand'. Be wary of the friable rock.

Straight up on crimpers to 1st bolt, crux to 2nd bolt, then easier to 3rd bolt. DBB on slab above.

FA: Heinz Buscher & Steve Jones, 2009

Sport 14m, 3
15 The Bonehead Manoeuvre

Last route at upper right of wall. Short and punchy with a defined crux around the second bolt.

Sport 13m, 3
9 Pockets Of Fun

Start: a few metres Left of A Bad Dose Of Rigamortice. Up easy slab on pockets and jugs past three carrots, then traverse out Right to chains on ABDOR.

FA: Ross & Claudia Ferguson, 2001

Sport 15m, 3
10 A Bad Dose Of Rigamortice

Start: As for Pockets Of Fun. Up to big ledge, then climb a bit Right and up to first FH a few metres up. Then up on good pockets to chains, passing another 2 FHs.

FA: Ross Ferguson & Matt Williams, 2001

Sport 15m, 3
13 Fillament

Start further Right of A Bad Dose Of Rigamortice. Bridge up the chimney, passing 4 carrots, exit left at top to chains above the overlap.

FA: Heinz Buscher & Ros Jackson, 2009

Sport 22m, 4
21 Brummagem

some rust forming on the first bolt which is a good 7 metres up, loose 30kg chockstone to the right of first bolt, super dirty, should be cleaned up, glued, rebolted or chopped

FA: Lee Cujes & Erik Smits, 1999

Sport 13m, 2

Showing all 19 routes.

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