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This novel route climbs the outside of 'Keyhole' 's leaning pillar. Access by 'Bloodsucker' 's first pitch or rapping in from 'Pocket Full Of Kryptonite' 's chains. Belay on R of pillar's base. Scramble up right to clip first FH, but route is best started directly from the base of the pillar. Balancy start passing 2 FH's, then natural gear to top. Scramble up 3m to belay at base of 'Pocket Full Of Kryptonite'.

Ethic: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Lee Cujes, 1999


Located in The Upper Main Cliff approx:
Long/Lat: 152.934647,-26.899859

Route Grade Citations

16 Community registered grade
16 Pocket RockGUIDE: New Climbs including Perth Update

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 58%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

solid hard good super great fun awesome short crazy

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