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Description:© (Trent)

Take wires, RP's and SLCD's to #3. 255 vertical metres from base to summit.

Start: 15m R at the 50m high vegetated ramp sloping diagonally R. Marked D.

  1. 50m (-) Follow ramp until it finishes on a vegetated ledge.

  2. 20m (-) Easily L along ledge and up through obvious weakness in wall above (old pegs) to a ledge and technical belay in corner on R.

  3. 10m (-) Up corner, then out to R before cutting back L along ledge to FH and SLCD belay (optional).

  4. 40m (-) Up corner on R (tricky), and then diagonally R across slab to bush belay.

  5. 35m (-) Up slightly L to the end of the scrubby ledge (Clemency Terrace aka Halfway House). Beware loose blocks. Belay.

  6. 20m (-) Walk L along ledge to below obvious crack/flake corner.

  7. 50m (-) Up corner and at top out R to easier ground. Continue diagonally out R to a large vegetated gully. TB. This is a superb, rope-stretching pitch.

  8. 30m (-) Up slab L of gully to ledge and bush belay.

  9. 30m (-) Up to ledge and belay in continuation of gully above the Carborundum Terrace.

  10. 20m (16) Enter groove from L (delicate) and straight up to belay at horizontal break at stance.

  11. 40m (-) Out L and through juggy bulge. Up easy angle wall to TB.

  12. 30m (-) Through scrub and rock walls to summit scrub field. Another 80m above is the summit

Ethic: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Ted Cais & Mike Meadows, 1970


Located in Clemency Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 152.947516,-26.928656

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

16 Community registered grade
16 * * ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 47%

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