- Height: 380m
- Pitches: 12
- Ascents: 10
- Description:© (Trent)
Take wires, RP's and SLCD's to #3. 255 vertical metres from base to summit.
Start: 15m R at the 50m high vegetated ramp sloping diagonally R. Marked D.
50m (-) Follow ramp until it finishes on a vegetated ledge.
20m (-) Easily L along ledge and up through obvious weakness in wall above (old pegs) to a ledge and technical belay in corner on R.
10m (-) Up corner, then out to R before cutting back L along ledge to FH and SLCD belay (optional).
40m (-) Up corner on R (tricky), and then diagonally R across slab to bush belay.
35m (-) Up slightly L to the end of the scrubby ledge (Clemency Terrace aka Halfway House). Beware loose blocks. Belay.
20m (-) Walk L along ledge to below obvious crack/flake corner.
50m (-) Up corner and at top out R to easier ground. Continue diagonally out R to a large vegetated gully. TB. This is a superb, rope-stretching pitch.
30m (-) Up slab L of gully to ledge and bush belay.
30m (-) Up to ledge and belay in continuation of gully above the Carborundum Terrace.
20m (16) Enter groove from L (delicate) and straight up to belay at horizontal break at stance.
40m (-) Out L and through juggy bulge. Up easy angle wall to TB.
30m (-) Through scrub and rock walls to summit scrub field. Another 80m above is the summit
- Ethic: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains
Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.
Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!
New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.
First Ascent: Ted Cais & Mike Meadows, 1970
Located in Clemency Wall approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|16 *||ACA Route Register|
Overall quality score: 47%
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