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Starts at the base of Dreadnought's eighth pitch.

  1. 55m (crux) - Instead of climbing left into the groove, veer right and climb low-angle slab to stance (poor gear - green Alien, #3 Peenut). Hard layaway rock over to good crimp. More committing moves with danger of a ledge fall, then good jug. Crack above takes med cams. Moderately up good slab to a peg in pocket. Hard pulls on good holds through bulge to crack (med-large cams). Follow easing line up intermittent crack to belay on ledge (peg, cam, wires).

  2. 20m (10) - Veer left up slab to join original.

Ethic: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Darrin Carter & Mark Poole, 2000


Located in Clemency Wall approx:
Lat/Long: -26.928656,152.947516

Route Grade Citations

18 Community registered grade

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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