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First bolted route as the track begins to dip.

Due to nesting peregrine falcons, this route should remain off limits from August - November.

  1. 20m (17) - The most difficult moves on the route are found in the first few bolts which is always off-putting to some. But get through here and you're away on a grand adventure. 7 or 8 FH's to rap station.

  2. 28m (15) - Step off right and down to ledge as for Carborundum Chimney first pitch. Cross ledge and climb easy wall to high FH. Follow the FH's with good, fun climbing through some drummy rock to rap station below steep wall.

  3. 28m (16) - It's all systems go straight off the belay up the steep wall passing several FH's but it soon eases to a naturally protected crack and short chimney. On to spooky tree-covered ledge and rap station.

  4. 30m (16) - Easily up to the left of the belay to high FH but keeping right of arete to stance below steep wall. Crank your way up on good edges passing several FH's to rap station.

  5. 30m (13) - Good vertical face climbing on natural pro up the intermittent crack to a slabby finish passing 2 FH's and an old rap station to newer one on the next ledge up.

Ethic: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.


Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin & Bill Strachan, 2007


Located in Carborundum Wall approx:
Lat/Long: -26.927447,152.948112

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

17 Community registered grade
17 * ACA Route Register
17 Dan Lukis
17 PattyD
18 Mark Gamble
18 private

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 64%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crank sandbag pleasant fun cool nice good great exciting enjoyable awesome tricky slippery chimney rest interesting epic dodgy short easy traverse crack

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