- Height: 82m
- Pitches: 4
- Ascents: 22
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- Description:© (Trent)
A time-honoured bumbly classic. So named because of its abrasive properties, this route follows the large, prominent chimney on the E face. When you're wedged in the chimney, spare a thought for when this was climbed with nothing more than a rope and a couple of slings!
Start: Beneath the L-leaning pocketed crack 5m or so L of where the E face walking track meets the rock (35m L of the Caves Route). Marked 'CC'.
35m (-) Originally the crux pitch. Up face, then follow the crack with bridging moves to a rest position. Up face above passing a PR to large ledge. Bridge up the gully to the second ledge. Belay from collection of small-ish trees.
25m Up easy wall (good pro) to tree. Up and L to enter the chimney. Climb up wide groove to big sling belay in the 'Bomb Shelter'.
25m (-) Up easy wall (good pro) to tree. Up and L to enter the chimney. Climb up wide groove to big sling belay in the 'Bomb Shelter'.
17m (11) (crux). Harder since repeat ascentionists have trundled some chockstones used by original party. Bridge up into the chimney to stance and pro. Chimney up past chockstones and hidden PRs (on back wall) to ledge. Belay off large chockstone at back of ledge.
15m (-) Continue up chimney until it finishes at a ledge and TB. From the belay ledge, escape off to the R along scrubby ledge to connect with the 'Caves Route' above Cave 2. Alternately, it is possible to go L-wards up the V-gully and follow terraces up to the summit.
First Ascent: Neill Lamb, Mark Andrews, 1955
Located in Carborundum Wall approx:
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Route Grade Citations
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