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Description:© (Trent)

A time-honoured bumbly classic. So named because of its abrasive properties, this route follows the large, prominent chimney on the E face. When you're wedged in the chimney, spare a thought for when this was climbed with nothing more than a rope and a couple of slings!

Start: Beneath the L-leaning pocketed crack 5m or so L of where the E face walking track meets the rock (35m L of the Caves Route). Marked 'CC'.

  1. 35m (-) Originally the crux pitch. Up face, then follow the crack with bridging moves to a rest position. Up face above passing a PR to large ledge. Bridge up the gully to the second ledge. Belay from collection of small-ish trees.

  2. 25m (-) Up easy wall (good pro) to tree. Up and L to enter the chimney. Climb up wide groove to big sling belay in the 'Bomb Shelter'.

  3. 17m (11) (crux). Harder since repeat ascentionists have trundled some chockstones used by original party. Bridge up into the chimney to stance and pro. Chimney up past chockstones and hidden PRs (on back wall) to ledge. Belay off large chockstone at back of ledge.

  4. 15m (-) Continue up chimney until it finishes at a ledge and TB. From the belay ledge, escape off to the R along scrubby ledge to connect with the 'Caves Route' above Cave 2. Alternately, it is possible to go L-wards up the V-gully and follow terraces up to the summit.

Ethic: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Neill Lamb & Mark Andrews, 1955


Located in Carborundum Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 152.948112,-26.927447

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

11 Community registered grade
11 * * ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 63%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

good sweet fun classic nice awesome scary fall slippery short face chimney epic

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