Ascents of Overexposed

Dan has a child so I volunteered myself for the p1 death lead. Spent a solid 2 hours excursioning around including one wild traverse way too far right into the orange overhangs before I finally found the belay.

Overall this is probably the most serious route I've done on tibro. It mixes in bad/tricky gear, route finding, run outs and choss. Falling on P1 for either leader or second would make for a very calamitous circumstance.

Another cracking day up Tibro, smooth sailing up the first 3 pitches (somehow linked 3&4) swapping leads, riding the strong winds up made the exposure even more exposed. Change of pace on the final pitch where my route-finding skills let me down. Ended up the no gear direct finish as opposed to the traverse out left, climbing felt good though and was just patiently waiting for the steepness to ease up. Couple dodgy piece of mind cams in a hollow flake would be my demise as a hold out right broke off and sent me tumbling down for my first trad whip, popping both cams in the process. Rattled and sore, Jack took the lead once again punching left a little earlier and breezing up the direct finish to the summit. Biggest yelp of the climb still belongs to jack after a bat flew out from his hand jam.

Couldnt have filled the last day in aus with much more climbing than today. 8 pitches total. The kobemaster set us off at 12:40 from the base, up what must have felt like a very sweaty patience crack - and very hard for 15. That is because my sandbagging was out in full force; direct variant, grade 19. The big marn cruised it though. From the top of patience, a cool ramble across some grassy ledges put us back on the right wall to attack our main objective. We began overexposed around 2:50ish i think. P1 wasnt as fucked as i thought it would be. Youd rail yourself if you fell but i think grade 15 is actually fair. By this time the wind had picked right up and spooge wasnt a worry. From here it was poetry in motion as kobi and i traded solos up the winding territory through the caves. All was easy breezy.. until my rope got a massive couple tugs while belaying the 5th pitch, i look up to see kobis body ragdolling down the slab. After about 10m he was caught in a figure 4 position with a pulled cam stuck around his leg. We later joked he must have been already re-working the beta before the fall had finished. The green half nut that caught him remains in the wall.. not cos we couldnt get it out, but as a memorial for the scene of one of the most unideal, non-serious injury resultant whips thats ever occured anywhere. "Ah well good to get the first trad whip out the way" will need to be engraved on a plaque and drilled into the wall next to it. If you do see the piece, downclimb outta there and get back on the route which was about 15m to the left! Also bears mentioning to be careful of the rock up top whichever way you go, some of it tricked my choss radar and i also kicked some edges off. Topped out at about 5:30. Beaut sunset scenes on the walk off. Cracker day

Finally got to finish this one after we had to bail months ago. Beautiful line and scary as hell. A rap off anchor down to Spooky Ledge would make this a perfect climb (instead of the shitty bushbash up to the top).

1st pitch with poor placements and a few run out from the placements. Recommend mentality of 'must not fall on a grade 15'. The rest is fine with better placements and amazing overexposed views of the submit caves. Believe the 4th pitch is 10mts or less from pitch 3 cave 'belay station'.

A somewhat ill-fated attempt. First we started way too low and ended in a beautiful line of small caves, and found out rather late we weren't on Overexposed and had to downclimb and rap off. After a great lead by Scott on pitch 1 and my sketchy lead on pitch 2, the looming thunderstorm forced us to bail before we could traverse right into the unknown on pitch 3. Retreat was somewhat difficult, with torrential rain above, lightning everywhere and the side wall transforming into a waterfall. Glad to get through Spooky Ledge to the rap off of Remains of the day.

So the ewbank system is not entirely linear🙂

Scary!!!!

Awesome day out with Zac linking up this with Carborundum Chimney. Bloody classic for the exposure and positions alone. Can't believe how almost every belay is in a perfect cosy little cave. Some of the cave belays could do with a bolted belay, although microcams did the trick. Highly recommend if your head's feeling solid. Led all pitches. Deserving of at least a star. Superb.

There's a chain belay atop pitch 4 that wasn't in the guide ... perhaps placed to rap down Remains of the Day.