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Description:

Start under the main section of overhangs, and wander up the slab to a big 'T' marker in a cosy groove. A stunning old time classic through some very imposing country. Most people look at the route and think 'How can this be a 13?'. Keep in mind that the first ascentionists climbed the route wearing sand shoes in 1966! A grand testament to the pioneers of old.

  1. 14m (crux) - Step out left from belay and climb confidently on slick orange rock passing some thought-provoking placements. Run-out in top section. Wires and cams for belay.

  2. 14m - Another bold pitch. Walk left across ledge for about 10m and then about 4m of vertical climbing (#0.5 Friend in slot) up into cave. Rap station/belay in the back of the cave.

  3. 15m - Step out of cave and climb finger crack/corner to ledge. Dizzying exposure, secure jams, great rock and bomber pro. The best pitch of the route. Optional chains exist on far right of ledge. With two 50m ropes, this provides an epic escape via one of the best free-hanging abseils in Queensland.

  4. 15m - Climb the crack/corner to ledge.

  5. 15m - Avoid the chimney and instead climb the sweet crack up the slab to the left. To finish, simply scramble up the vegetated scree to the top of the mountain.

Ethic: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: Les Wood & John Tillack, 1966

Location:  

Located in Summit Cave approx:
Lat/Long: -26.926809,152.947796

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

13 Community registered grade
13
16

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 77%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux sandbag hard fun cool nice fantastic good sweet great wicked exciting classic awesome scary fall runout exposed committing slippery rest dodgy easy crap mantle sharp crack

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Check out what is happening on Trojan (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.