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Description:© (Trent)

A great, easy multipitch route although pro is pretty sparse in places. A good initiation to Tibro multipitches. Can be done in three pitches with 50m rope.

Start: About 30m R of Ishoni at big corner/gully. Marked 'BO'.

  1. 20m (-) Very easily up gully on big jugs and good pro to ledge and TB.

  2. 45m (10) Up wall above ledge to slabby stance. Traverse R up this slab with little pro to another ledge and optional shrub belay. Walk to far R of ledge. Climb up edgy slab in an exposed position with no protection until it eases and you reach a tree-lined ledge. Scramble up L to the top of the ledge and TB.

  3. 40m (-) Bridge up outside of chimney which is better than it looks. Scramble up trending L to top of gully, then trend R up easy slab to TB.

  4. 15m (-) Slab very easily up L to big tree just below Cave 3 to belay, then scramble up. Finish up the 'Caves Route', or descend via rap station at mouth of Cave 1.

Ethic: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Sid Tanner & Andrew Spiers, 1969

Location:  

Located in Desperation Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 152.948773,-26.926131

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

10 Principal
10
10 ** ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 68%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

solid crux fun cool nice fantastic good great lovely exciting enjoyable classic awesome scary runout chimney rest interesting face easy bad bridging dry

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