Site navigation

Section navigation

Description:© (Trent)

A great, easy multipitch route although pro is pretty sparse in places. A good initiation to Tibro multipitches. Can be done in three pitches with 50m rope.

Start: About 30m R of Ishoni at big corner/gully. Marked 'BO'.

  1. 20m (7) Very easily up gully on big jugs and good pro to ledge and TB.

  2. 20m (10) Up slab (right of ledge) to mount short wall (crux), onto slab & up this (R) with little pro to big ledge & tree belay.

  3. 25m (4) Climb up edgy slab in an exposed position with no protection until it curves back left & you reach a tree-lined ledge. Scramble up L to the top of the ledge & belay from the small tree pinned to the wall. (Some choose to run pitch 2&3 together, beware that you may be out of earshot of your belayer.)

  4. 40m (10) Bridge up outside of chimney (crux), which is better than it looks (ample gear), traverse L along ledge, then up to top of gully, & easy slab & tree belay.

  5. 15m (3) Up very easy slab to big tree in Cave 3 (or belay from tree below cave). (Some choose to run pitch 4&5 together, on a 60m-70m rope, be aware you may be out of earshot.) Finish up the 'Caves Route', or descend via rap station at mouth of Cave 1.

Ethic: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Sid Tanner & Andrew Spiers, 24 Jul 1969


Located in Desperation Wall approx:
Lat/Long: -26.926131,152.948773

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

10 Community registered grade
10 ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 68%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

solid crux fun cool nice fantastic good great lovely exciting enjoyable classic awesome scary runout exposed chimney rest interesting face easy bad bridging dry

Learn about creating circuits.

Activity Configure

Check out what is happening on Black Orpheus (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.