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A novel way up to cave 4 and beyond, not as nice as The Caves Route but a nice change of scenery. Start about 50m right of Black Orpheus, in a gulley that is accessed by scrambling up just before the track drops down and starts heading around the Northern side of the mountain. This route has many variations - this description is only one of them.

  1. Scramble up the gully with a short steeper section into the bushes, stop when you find a shady spot or some scrub big enough to belay off.

  2. Climb the short wall into the bushes and repeat as per pitch one.

  3. Climb up between the shitty rock and the harder stuff to the right. Bush bash to something resembling a belay.

  4. Move left and head in the direction of cave 4, either stop at the ledge at the bottom of the ramp in front of cave 4 or continue up to the prominent tree on the ramp. Rope drag will guide this decision.

  5. Continue up and towards the right side of cave 4 (facing cave) into the gully/chimney with zero gear, top out into cave 4. Apply lotion to scratches from bush bashing and then descend by traversing left (facing cave) out of the cave to join the top of Black Orpheus. The unpleasantness of P4/5 and the traverse can be avoided by heading left at the top of P2 and linking up with Orpheus (some bad rock at the start but still about grade 4).

Ethic: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Ron Brooks 1953, Ron Brooks, Neil Lamb & Ron Brooks, 1953


Located in Desperation Wall approx:
Lat/Long: -26.926131,152.948773

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

4 Community registered grade

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 46%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux fun nice exposed slippery easy rest dodgy

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