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2016 route description: 230m from the base of the mountain to the top of the shoulder.

Start: Starts about 400m R of Mr Busy pillar near the southern end of the west wall. The beginning of the route is painted with a very small WB mark. Up zigzagging over easy rock for 70m or so and bush-bash up through low scrub and over bands of rock to find the line of least resistance to reach the big ledge below the rock face (this is the ledge that serves the Underworld routes). Walk to the right at the end of the ledge, the first pitch was marked with a white arrow but we think is now worn off.

  1. 30m Up a gully to a vegetated area. An alternative to this section is to chimney up a fissure 7m to the left, walk up and right for about 20m, then up into another vegetated ledge to the base of a clean rock face with a tight chimney on the right and a gully on the left. A distinctive feature here is a white triangle on the rock just few metres above. Tree Belay.

  2. 30m Climb the gully on the left up to a ledge then keep on going up a chimney with a hard move past a slabby wedged block to a bulge. Belay on gear below the overhangs (2 big hexes and a #4 cam).

  3. 10m Traverse left past a rusty piton and downclimb with care to a gum tree at the base of the main chimney leading to Shell Rock. Belay from the gum tree. Short pitch to avoid rope drag.

  4. 20m Up the dirty small chimney with hard moves below a twin groove gully. Tree and gear belay.

  5. 29m Up the left groove (choss and mud), cross over and in through the front door of Shell Rock. Belay slinging doors and features.

  6. 20m Out the back door of Shell Rock then up and into a broken chimney and slightly right on thin slabs to a ledge and Belay Chains.

From here bush-bash for another 20m or so to the top of Beerwah west shoulder and walk along the ridge, skirting left around the knob and across to the hikers route. The old description can be found on the Qurank guide.

Alan Frost, Dave MacGibbon 1956

Ethic: inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Alan Frost & Dave MacGibbon, 1956


Located in West Face approx:
Lat/Long: -26.897117,152.881346

Route Grade Citations

10 Community registered grade
17 private

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 58%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

good great fun cool face easy

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