Help
1 26
2 27

description

Tough layback start up the corner just right of the aid route. Up stemming corner with increasing difficulty (many ring bolts), then overhang to jug. Tricky section to a right traverse. Steep wild section leads to a rest in a sandpit. Gritty head wall section leading to the aid routes arbitrary p1 belay but it doesn’t stop here in the middle of nowhere - keep climbing ! Go left to corner, then up using holds on the left arete until possible to traverse back right onto the aid line on sandy rock, up into the bathtub ledge. Clip high vertical chain anchor. Amazing pitch of climbing with mostly stunning rock and a little sand here and there. Take 20 draws and long slings.

Route history

1 Sep 2012First free ascent: Lee Cujes & John J O'Brien

Warnings

11 Apr 2023 Warning Fixed Gear: Access is extremely sensitive

Location

Lat/Lon: -26.89648, 152.88382

Grade citation

26, 27 Assigned grade
grAId
26 [25 - 27] -- grAId
27

ethic

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 92 from 13 ratings.

Difficulty - 27

Suggested Grade

26

Based on 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Comment keywords

pumped powerful tired hard crux exhausting difficult strenuous amazing awesome super cool fun classy incredible magic classic satisfying good fantastic rad great technical bad feet epic traverse steep face easy arete rest hands bail layback fall tricky scary committing

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this

Thu 20 Apr
Check out what is happening in Stainless Climb.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文