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Description

Ridiculously popular. Mostly short, mostly bolted with close access. Make sure you take care of any toileting before heading up the gully.

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach

From the Berteaus Rd carpark (-26.93296,152.94992) hop over the metal gate and walk down the hill and branch right at the crossroads (signposted). Follow this gently uphill for 150m.

Head left at the signpost (Tibrogargan picnic area 1km, Trachyte Circuit 1.5km) for 350m, passing a bench and a Mount Beerburrum sign.

Shortly after the bench a track heads right and uphill towards a large gum tree 3m from the main path. Weave up this path for 10 minutes until you get to a short dark rock face. Follow this right to get to Slider Wall. The first line of bolts on your left will be The Fires of Jealousy.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Pleasant climbing up good rock.

Start: Start: Back down 5m L from BB amongst trees at fallen log. First climb on LH wall of the 'Slider' gully.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2006

Up past FH then move L onto small ledge (FH). Pass two more FH's and up to anchor up R (shared with MM).

Start: Start: At base of gully below rounded arête.

FA: Scott Lawrence & Gary Meyrick, 1999

Aspiring repeat ascentionists are asked to not stand on the major crux hold once getting above it as it may snap off and render the route impossible.

FA: Russell Bright & Peta Barrett, 2007

Start a couple of meters right of YWSYLS. Crimpy climbing. Seeps longer than most climbs here after heavy rain.

FA: Scott Lawrence, Gareth Llewellin & Gary Meyrick, 1999

A link-up, linking the first 3 bolts of Monkey Magic before heading right and finishing up Tripitaka.

FA: ross ferguson, 2007

More sustained thinness. Five FH's to anchor (shared with P).

Start: Off the platform just up and R from the start of MM.

Stickclip recommended. Four FH's to anchor (shared with T). Optional small wires between second and third bolts.

Start: 3m right of 'Tripitaka'

FA: ross ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, susy goldner & A. Dougal, 2004

Reversy-traversy.

Start at 'Something about Sandy' and traverse across Pigsy, Tripitaka and 'Monkey Magic' before finishing at the chains of 'Blowing Bubbles'

FA: ross ferguson & Geoffrey, 2007

Start 3m R of 'Pigsy'.

Bit of a one move wonder. Better than it looks. 5 FHs to anchor.

Start 3m R of 'Something About Sandy'.

Was a dodgy trad climb, now retrobolted with 4 FHs and a DBB.

A link up.

Start up SANM for 3 bolts beforing heading right across TMMM and into EMCBP, and finally finishing up last two bolts of TVM.

Great! Five FH's up corner-like feature. Shares an anchor with TMMM.

Start: A further 10m up the gully.

... of a Jug.

A hold has "Appeared" at the crux making in much easier.

Shares the same 2 first bolts as TMMM then continues up and right. One obvious crimpy crux then eases off substantially.

FA: ross ferguson, 2005

Four FHs to chains. Some long and powerful moves on good holds.

Start: R of TMMM

Start just to the right of 'The Vampire Master', closed for now, please stay off.

Set by Tom Kjaer-Olsen, 2016

Definitely stickclip first FH to avoid an ugly fall as you strain your tendons on the first moves. Hang on then it's all over. Cruise jugs past second FH. Finish up OC's last FH and chain.

Start: Left of OC

FA: ross ferguson & Geoffrey, 2007

One of the shortest routes around. Three FH's to anchor.

Start: Just before a flat wall impedes progress up the gully

FA: Geoff Lawrie & Mark Gamble

A steeper and more vegetated section of gully separates Slider's lower wall from its upper wall. From 'Outrageous Coincidences' follow the fixed ropes up and around this section to arrive on the relatively flat platform at the base of Upper Slider Wall.

A large number of fun pumpy climbs exist here. Slider (22), Squealer (23), Howler (24), Madder and Wailer (25) and the classic linkup 'Hybrid Vigour' (27). Once you have done these, then any number of linkups await.

A bit of a one move wonder which eases in the upper half. Avoid the big blocks out L at about half height. Arapliesean.

Start: The L-most route on Upper 'Slider' wall.

Start up Procastinator, head right and join into Slider via an additional traverse bolt.

FA: Lee Cujes & Glenn, 2007

A link up

FA: Lee Cujes, 2005

A big diagonal link up

FA: Lee Cujes, 2005

FA: Adam Palmer, 2007

20 clip super link-up.

FA: Duncan Steel & Lee Cujes, 2006

Start as for the 40meter mile but accross Dr Pinocho and finish up The Overseer

As for The Expedition, but finish up Overseer RHV. Adds a resistance crux thats a heart breaker..

FFA: Tom O'Halloran, 2009

Yes its a linkup. procrastorslider to sliders 2nd last bolt. Accross the wall to the deadpoint (2nd last bolt) of Howler, then right to the last bolt of Wailer and finish accross to Dr P and The Overseer RHV (as for Pandora). Superduperpooperpumper!!!

FA: ross ferguson & Russ Bright, 2011

FFA: Tom O'Haloran, 2011

Gently overhung sport climbing past seven FH's to an exciting conclusion which often sees pumped leaders take to the air.

Start: 3m R of 'Procrastinator' (before rock slab starts rising R-wards).

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Adam Donoghue, 2008

A link up.

Start: Below 'Squealer' with some cams in a horizontal.

A direct start added to the great original finish of 'Squealer' makes this an awesome undertaking. Six FH's straight up to lower-off, an optional medium sized SLCD can be placed in the low horizontal if getting to the first bolt bothers you. (Originally, Sqealer traversed in from Howler).

Start: From the first raised platform.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

Fantastic, absorbing wall climbing with a punchy finish. This could now be the best single pitch sport route in the Glasshouses.

A hold has broken off in 2016 making it slightly more challenging.

Start: Just R of 'Squealer'

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

Start Howler and join Madder for its last bolt.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 1999

Superb moves on mostly big, flat holds. Five FH's with a late crux to rap station. Gareth's done it cleanly up, down, weighed down, in slow motion, and with bare feet. Seriously.

Start: Just R of 'Madder'

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 1999

Linkup, start up Wailer and head left after the second last bolt, finishing up Howler clipping its last bolt.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2004

Up past another four bolts to finish on the R-hand end of the 'Howler' ledge (shares H's anchor). Start: Start as for 'Howler'. Now has it's own first bolt for days when it's busy.

What do you get when you stack a 25 on top of a 25?

Climb up Wailer to it's final bolt, traverse right and join into 'The Final Piece'. Classic pumper.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

As for 'Hybrid Vigour', but continue traversing to 'Doctor Pinocchio' and finish up that.

As for 'Pinocchio's Extension' but when you near the top of 'Doctor Pinocchio' keep heading right to Overseer.

FA: ross ferguson, 2008

Two bolts up the corner to ledge. Step across the void onto the wall, and up past four bolts to lower-off. Take a #1 SLCD for top. A couple of bouldery moves in a breezy position!

Start: At the big corner R of 'Wailer'.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2005

Climb The Final Piece into Overseer.

FA: ross ferguson, 2008

Climb up the gully at the right hand end and follow up The Final Piece to its 5th bolt. From here step right and then follow a further 4 fixed hangers up before joining back at TFP's anchor.

FA: Russell Bright & ross ferguson, 2008

Long and pumpy climbing with great views.

Start: At the big corner R of 'Wailer'.

FA: ross ferguson, 2009

The next 3 climbs are on the gully wall opposite Lower Slider Wall.

Ridiculously short but good. 3 bolts.

Start: 5m L of the tree

Starts at the base of the tree and goes up the arête. After that, head L and follow the obvious seam up to chain. Two bolts then small cams and wires.

Up onto broad ledge (FH) then go R to arête. Up passing many good stances and four more FH's. Finish as for MSTU with wires in obvious seam to chain.

Start: 5m down R of MSTU

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2004

The following climbs aren't in the 'Slider Wall' gully. They're found about 50m R along the base of the cliff.

The furthest left route on the small cliff. Pleasant climbing straight up.

FA: Ryan Castel, 2014

Four FH's. Stick clip first, tricky moves off deck to rest, then cunning fingerlock to reach slopers over bulge. Easy to top. Lower off.

FA: Ryan Castel & Natalie, 2005

Two close together first bolts, then fun, tricky moves off sidepulls to top.

Start: R of Brannigan's Law

FA: Natalie's project; Ryan Castel

FA: Ryan Castel, 2005

Activity

Check out what is happening in Slider Wall.