routes as sport in Carborundum Wall
Back to index
Showing all 8 routes.
|16 to 21||Phoenix
Rising out of the ashes of the 2014 tibro fires.
Set by Zac Trembath-Pitham & Nigel Joyce, 2013
FA: Nigel Joyce & Zac Trembath-pitham, 2014
FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham & Nigel Joyce, 2014
|70m, 3, 21|
|20|| Banished For Infidelity
3m L of Remains Of The Day.
1] 30m (18) Trends ever so slightly left. Awkward and a wee bit exciting. Can be climbed as a single pitch by lowering off the anchors of First Contact, or otherwise scamper quickly up easy ground to single ring and double ring anchor at the belay.
2] 30m (17) Trends quite a way towards the left, avoid the ancient relic carrot and hanger at about half height. Mind the choss before the belay.
3] 20m (21) Up through some bad rock to small roof, left and up with balance and strong manoeuvres to once again encounter easier ground above the bulge.
4a] 35m (17) Wander right of the belay, then above the lip of the cave, up steep gully and skirt under overhang and continue up using a couple of chimney moves or brave the face out to the right. Up slab to step left onto stoney ledge, up through the shrubbery to belay on right hand end of bushy ledge. This pitch is very wandery and should not be rapped by following the hangers.
4b] 28m (24) From belay, head up and left along ledge with thin holds. A few powerful moves to get over the lip. Above the lip, wander to the right above the belay. Continue wandering right up through the shrubbery to belay on right hand end of bushy ledge.
5] 25m (16) Up from belay avoiding the 'less than inspiring rock'. Move across left to gain easier ground around a gentle corner.
6] 25m (14) Up and gingerly step left across gap continuing up and then right avoiding the hanging blocks, very easy ground to the top of the ridge, look for the Airtime rap and belay hangers over on the left, they are on vertical rock under an overhang. Don't climb any higher as rap becomes problematic from here. You would also need trad gear to continue to the top on the top pitch of Airtime.
Ten sport draws are sufficient however two additional long or extending draws would help to smooth out rope drag in places. Phil Box, Jay McGechan, Steve Peckman 2011. 4b) Glen, Jay McGechan 2012
Rap using one of the options:
A Down Airtime Over Pumicestone (see its description for details).
B Rap back down route. From Airtime anchors rap by walking backwards along tip toe ridge and trend to the right (looking back up the ridge) to then rap down to the bushy ledge anchors at the top of 4th pitch. Rap from the top of the 4th pitch by moving to the left i.e. not down the way you came up, you can rap to the 3rd pitch belay on an almost straight drop with an easy pull by doing it this way. From the top of the 3rd pitch rap to the top of the second pitch, you'll have to rap past the rap anchors due to the overhanging nature of the terrain, climb about 2 metres back up to the belay. You can either rap to ground via an intermediate rap chain half way directly down or rap back via the route to the top of the 1st pitch and then to ground. It's a bit of an epic getting back down due to the geology and geography of the terrain. You should only need one 60 metre rope for climbing and rap if you follow instructions.
FA: Phil Box, Jay MacGechan & Steve Kloske., 2011
|20|| First Contact
5m L of Banished For Infidelity and first route with black hangers. 7 FHs, lower-off.
|20|| Into Darkness
2m L of FC. Shiny silver FH's, finishing at the slightly lower, visible anchor.
FA: John J O'Brien & Lee Cujes, 2013
4m L of FC. The obvious arcing line up the marbled white rock in the middle of the wall.
|21|| Insurrection VS
4m downhill of Insurrection. Stickclip. Up past three FHs to join original. Perhaps a bit harder?
|20|| Nine Month Sojourn
4m L of Insurrection VS. Thuggy off the ground. Straight up and through the overlaps. Slightly L, slightly R. 8 FHs, lower-off. Harder than LOAJP.
|20|| Leaving On A Jet Plane
3m L of NMS, starting up on little platform. Stickclip. Tricky little start, then smooth sailing through mini roof and up blocky wall. 8 FHs, lower-off.
Showing all 8 routes.