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The central cave containing 'Trojan', Beast from the East and In Between Dreams. Access is via the Caves Route, but instead of topping out on the summit via the crack pitch, trend left through the scrub and end up on a little grassy ledge. From here most routes for the area can be approached. Be careful as any rocks thrown from the summit tend to get channeled to this ledge.

© (djbiggs)

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route
15 ** Overexposed Trad 120m, 5

Start: About 20m below the extreme top of the gully above Carborundum Chimney. The climb goes up the steep black wall L of the Tibro's East summit overhang with good technical moves and plenty of exposure with great stances in the small caves.

  1. 33m (crux) A hard start up the steep wall, then R into a small gully. Bear R again over easy ground to the foot of a wall and piton. Up and to the R over thin holds, very delicately, towards the top R corner of the wall. Easier towards an overhang. Over the overhang and into a small cave with a piton.

  2. 20m Out of the cave on the R, then step around the corner with mega exposure. Straight up, then tend R towards another small cave (the one on the L) with 3 pitons. Good holds but exposed.

  3. 17m Interesting and thought-provoking moves up the cave with good gear, moving up and escaping out L. After the cave comes easier ground and a ledge. Take a deep breath and traverse R into the unknown around the arete and continue up to yet another small cave.

  4. 17m Climbs through the difficult groove in the roof of the cave. Awesome wide bridging here with easier climbing above into cave stance once more. Messy unknown bolted belay located to the left of the cave. Good gear around it.

  5. 33m Out of the cave on the L, up a rib which is a bit loose, L below a loose block to easier climbing, traversing L. Keep traversing L. The stance is found below a black wall, or tree belay further along. Traverse off L along an easy ledge and up through bush and mank to summit.

FA: Les Wood & Donn Groom, 1966


From the top of pitch 5 on Overexposed climb black wall and slab above with no protection to top.

FA: John Oddie & Rick White, 1970

21 * Ronald Muck Trad 45m

FA: Craig Pohlman Robert Audsley, 2005


FA: G.Llewellin A.Donoghue, 2005


FA: A.Donoghue G.Llewellin, 2005

28 ** Massive Attack Trad 28m, 2

A few bits of trad required to get to roof, then all bolts.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Adam Donoghue, 2006

FFA: Lee Cujes & John O'Brien, 2012

Massive Attack p2 SportProject
25 *** Back in Black Trad 20m

FA: A. Donoghue G. Llewellin, 2007


FFA: Kim Carrigan & Paul Hoskins, 1980

FA: Rick White, Marty Beare & Dave Moss, 1980

24 Raptures Trad 60m, 3

FFA: Kim Carrigan & Paul Hoskins

24 ** Strange Fruit Sport 25m

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

24 * Littlebro Sport 9m, 4

Short and powerful or could be used as a harder direct start to Punks Not Dead. It climbs the right side of small cave with amazing featured rock. 4 closely spaced FHs and very bouldery moves. At the ledge hand traverse left along sloping lip then mantle up to horn jug. The anchor bolt is not installed (there is a 12mm hole ready for e bolt!). Lower off 4th bolt in the meantime,

Set by Neil Monteith

FFA: Neil Monteith & Logan Barber, 2013

23 ** Punk's Not Dead Sport 16m

FA: R. Ferguson G.Llewellin, 2006

22 ** Four Seasons Sport 28m

FA: G.Llewellin R.Ferguson, 2005

13 *** Trojan Trad 72m, 5

Start under the main section of overhangs, and wander up the slab to a big 'T' marker in a cosy groove. A stunning old time classic through some very imposing country. Most people look at the route and think 'How can this be a 13?'. Keep in mind that the first ascentionists climbed the route wearing sand shoes in 1966! A grand testament to the pioneers of old.

  1. 14m (crux) - Step out left from belay and climb confidently on slick orange rock passing some thought-provoking placements. Run-out in top section. Wires and cams for belay.

  2. 14m - Another bold pitch. Walk left across ledge for about 10m and then about 4m of vertical climbing (#0.5 Friend in slot) up into cave. Rap station/belay in the back of the cave.

  3. 15m - Step out of cave and climb finger crack/corner to ledge. Dizzying exposure, secure jams, great rock and bomber pro. The best pitch of the route. Optional chains exist on far right of ledge. With two 50m ropes, this provides an epic escape via one of the best free-hanging abseils in Queensland.

  4. 15m - Climb the crack/corner to ledge.

  5. 15m - Avoid the chimney and instead climb the sweet crack up the slab to the left. To finish, simply scramble up the vegetated scree to the top of the mountain.

FFA: Les Wood & John Tillack, 1966

26 * Achilles Sport 10m

FA: A.Donoghue G.Llewellin

27 *** The Bends Sport 15m

FA: G.Llewellin A.Donoghue, 2006


FA: A.Donoghue


FA: Lee Cujes, 2009

20 Staple It Together Sport 10m

FA: G.Llewellin A.Donoghue, 2006

26 *** In Between Dreams Sport 25m

Climb the amazing line trending left from the belay, up some steep madness and into the mind boggling slab overhang. A 60m rope will get you to the back to the base ledge.

Start: Solo up to the T for trojan and make the move up right to the bolts of the access pitch of Staple It Together.

FA: Adam Donoghue & Gareth Llewellin, 2006

25 ** Hyperballad Sport 15m

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

24 ** Morning of the Earth Sport 20m

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2007

22 ** Bird Of Prey p1 Sport 20m

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson (both led), 2006

25 ** Bird of Prey p2 Sport 13m

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2006


FA: Neil Monteith, 1998

13 * Short And Sweet Trad 35m
21 ** Big Empty p1 Sport 30m
21 ** Big Empty p2 Sport 1m

FA: Gareth & Ross

17 ** Walk the Line Sport 25m

FA: Gareth Llewellin Ross Ferguson (alt), 2006

22 ** Circlet Sport 16m

FA: Gareth?


FA: Gareth?

18 * The Digital Revolution Sport 20m, 6

Recently retro-bolted - now a great safe sport route. Sustained wall with lovely orange rock. Starts on left side of little cave/alcove directly below the rap anchors for Karma Ran Over My Dogma. Up ornate rock then traverse left onto arête and onto small stance. Finish straight up the fall with a little spicy runout to finish. This was Neil's first ever hand-drilled bolt, and the first of the 'new routes' established in the Summit Overhangs. It only had one bolt when originally climbed.

FA: Neil Monteith

25 ** High Definition Sport 20m, 6

Superb bulgy rock in the lower half. Start as for first bolt of Digital Revolution then take the right line of FHs through the smooth bulge and up the easier slab finish to shared last bolt and anchor with Digital Revolution. Bolts 2 & 3 are tricky to clip due to small holds and poor feet.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2013

FFA: Logan Barber & Neil Monteith, 2013

11 * Kronos Trad 23m
13 Jupiter Trad 39m
13 Juno Trad 30m
9 Hercules Trad 30m
8 Prometheus II Trad 43m
11 Prometheus II VF Trad 20m
13 Prometheus III Trad 13m
18 Prometheus II DF Trad 20m
12 * Boags Lite Sport 19m, 4


28 ** Seven Year Itch Sport 15m, 6

First route inside Cave 5. Two bolts up start wall to corner/roof. Bouldery, fun moves out this to giant flake and a squirmy exit to lip. Anchor above on headwall. Reminiscent of 'A Kneebar Too Far' at Mt Coolum.

First route inside Cave 5. Two bolts up start wall to corner/roof. Bouldery, fun moves out this to giant flake and a squirmy exit to lip. Anchor above on headwall. Reminiscent of A Kneebar Too Far at Mount Coolum.

FA: craig pohlman, 2005

FA: Craig Pohlman, 2005

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2012

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2012

23 * Puniverse Sport 6m, 3

The pockety, left to right trending line 3m R of SYI. Might be 24 but the grades in Cave 5 are all whacked out.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2013

(Link Project - LC) SportProject

Puniverse into the big proj. Closed.

23 ** No Membership Required Sport 10m, 4

Start 7m left of Groundhog Day. Coolum-esque climbing through the roof traversing right. The epic extension out the roof is a closed project.

FA: craig pohlman & Marcus O'Mara, 2006

FA: Craig Pohlman & Marcus O'Mara, 2006


Extension to NMR. Work in progress. Closed.


Starts on the prowl at the back of the cave between "Crikey" and "No Membership Required" finishes up on the clipping jug and anchor for "Crikey". Do a chin up to start and off you go.

FFA: Alex Turnbull, 2013

22 * Crikey Sport 10m, 4

Start 6m left of Groundhog Day. Up the overhanging corner traversing left to clip the shared lower-off with No Membership Required.

FA: craig pohlman & Marcus O'Mara, 2006

FA: Craig Pohlman & Marcus O'Mara, 2006

27 to 29 ** Groundhog Day Sport 16m

The right most bolted line in Cave 5. A very tricky roof climb. So steep it goes past horizontal. Bring your bouldering arms. This took Craig over 60 days of work to complete so the grade needs a thorough examination.

FA: craig pohlman, 2005

FA: Craig Pohlman, 2006


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