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Description

The central cave containing 'Trojan', Beast from the East and In Between Dreams. Access is via the Caves Route, but instead of topping out on the summit via the crack pitch, trend left through the scrub and end up on a little grassy ledge. From here most routes for the area can be approached. Be careful as any rocks thrown from the summit tend to get channeled to this ledge.

© (djbiggs)

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
15 Overexposed Trad 120m
3
21 Ronald Muck Trad 45m

FA: Craig Pohlman Robert Audsley, 2005

4

FA: G.Llewellin A.Donoghue, 2005

5

FA: A.Donoghue G.Llewellin, 2005

6
28 ** Massive Attack Trad 28m

A few bits of trad required to get to roof, then all bolts.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Adam Donoghue, 2006

FFA: Lee Cujes, John O'Brien, 2012

7
Massive Attack p2 Sport Project
8
25 *** Back in Black Trad 20m

FA: A. Donoghue G. Llewellin, 2007

9

FFA: Kim Carrigan, Paul Hoskins, 1980

FA: Rick White, Marty Beare, Dave Moss, 1980

10
24 Raptures Trad 60m

FFA: Kim Carrigan, Paul Hoskins

11
24 * Strange Fruit Sport 25m

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

12
13
24 * Littlebro Sport 9m, 4

Short and powerful or could be used as a harder direct start to Punks Not Dead. It climbs the right side of small cave with amazing featured rock. 4 closely spaced FHs and very bouldery moves. At the ledge hand traverse left along sloping lip then mantle up to horn jug. The anchor bolt is not installed (there is a 12mm hole ready for e bolt!). Lower off 4th bolt in the meantime,

Set by Neil Monteith

FFA: Neil Monteith & Logan Barber, 2013

14
23 ** Punk's Not Dead Sport 16m

FA: R. Ferguson G.Llewellin, 2006

15
22 ** Four Seasons Sport 28m

FA: G.Llewellin R.Ferguson, 2005

16
13 *** Trojan Trad 72m

FFA: Les Wood, John Tillack, 1966

17
26 Achilles Sport 10m

FA: A.Donoghue G.Llewellin

18
27 *** The Bends Sport 15m

FA: G.Llewellin A.Donoghue, 2006

19

FA: A.Donoghue

20

FA: Lee Cujes, 2009

21
20 Staple It Together Sport 27m

FA: G.Llewellin A.Donoghue, 2006

22
26 *** In Between Dreams Sport 25m

Climb the amazing line trending left from the belay, up some steep madness and into the mind boggling slab overhang. A 60m rope will get you to the back to the base ledge.

Start: Solo up to the T for trojan and make the move up right to the bolts of the access pitch of Staple It Together.

FA: Adam Donoghue, Gareth Llewellin, 2006

23
25 * Hyperballad Sport 15m

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

24
24 ** Morning of the Earth Sport 20m

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2007

25
22 *** Bird Of Prey p1 Sport 20m

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson (both led), 2006

26
25 *** Bird of Prey p2 Sport 13m

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2006

27

FA: Neil Monteith, 1998

29
13 Short And Sweet Trad 35m
30
21 ** Big Empty p1 Sport 30m
31
21 Big Empty p2 Sport 1m

FA: Gareth and Ross

32
17 ** Walk the Line Sport 25m

FA: Gareth Llewellin Ross Ferguson (alt), 2006

33
22 ** Circlet Sport 16m
34

FA: Gareth?

35

FA: Gareth?

36
18 The Digital Revolution Sport 20m, 6

Recently retro-bolted - now a great safe sport route. Sustained wall with lovely orange rock. Starts on left side of little cave/alcove directly below the rap anchors for Karma Ran Over My Dogma. Up ornate rock then traverse left onto arête and onto small stance. Finish straight up the fall with a little spicy runout to finish. This was Neil's first ever hand-drilled bolt, and the first of the 'new routes' established in the Summit Overhangs. It only had one bolt when originally climbed.

FA: Neil Monteith

37
25 ** High Definition Sport 20m, 6

Superb bulgy rock in the lower half. Start as for first bolt of Digital Revolution then take the right line of FHs through the smooth bulge and up the easier slab finish to shared last bolt and anchor with Digital Revolution. Bolts 2 & 3 are tricky to clip due to small holds and poor feet.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2013

FFA: Logan Barber & Neil Monteith, 2013

38
11 Kronos Trad 23m
39
13 Jupiter Trad 39m
40
13 Juno Trad 30m
41
9 Hercules Trad 30m
43
8 Prometheus II Trad 43m
44
11 Prometheus II VF Trad 20m
45
13 Prometheus III Trad 13m
46
18 Prometheus II DF Trad 20m
47
12 Boags Lite Sport 19m, 4

CAVE 5

48
28 ** Seven Year Itch Sport 15m, 6

First route inside Cave 5. Two bolts up start wall to corner/roof. Bouldery, fun moves out this to giant flake and a squirmy exit to lip. Anchor above on headwall. Reminiscent of 'A Kneebar Too Far' at Mt Coolum.

FA: Craig Pohlman, 2005

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2012

49
23 * Puniverse Sport 3

The pockety, left to right trending line 3m R of SYI. Might be 24 but the grades in Cave 5 are all whacked out.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2013

50
(Link Project - LC) Sport Project

Puniverse into the big proj. Closed.

51

FA: Craig Pohlman, Marcus O'Mara, 2006

52

Extension to NMR. Work in progress. Closed.

53

Starts on the prowl at the back of the cave between "Crikey" and "No Membership Required" finishes up on the clipping jug and anchor for "Crikey". Do a chin up to start and off you go.

FFA: Alex Turnbull, 2013

54
22 Crikey Sport 10m

FA: Craig Pohlman, Marcus O'Mara, 2006

55
29 Groundhog Day Sport 16m

FA: Craig Pohlman, 2006