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Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Routes

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Grade Route

ACCESS: To locate the base of this climb head left of slider gully for approx. 50m till you hit the obvious inlet in rock. Solo up rock and scrub for 20m till you hit the base of the wall . An obvious belay stance can be found to the LHS of this position. Look for the first hanger about 5m up.

RACK:

• Set of BD Camalot C3’s

• Set of Camalot .3 – 3

• 6 extender draws (1 x 120mm sling recommended)

• 4 normal draws

• Set of stoppers and RP’s

About: The route is a mixed adventure climb that was inspired by 2 mates craving some good old fashioned Tibro adventure. It was started in 2012 and finished in 2014 with 5 hangers and 4 single bolt belays. The climb was completed after the wild fires that swept through tibro in 2014.

This is not a sport climb and should only be attempted by experienced climbers who climb solid at the grade, as there are long run-outs between hangers. Some placements are obvious and others are hard to find but they are there. Retreat will be difficult albeit doable after pitch 3 but you will have to leave gear behind. 2 x 60m ropes is recommended for retreat. The climb is now equipped with 14 Hangers and 4 DBB’s

Pitch1 – 17R – (45m Mixed) Up for 2 hangers to awkward mantle then keep trending right chasing 2 more hangers. Look for gear past the last hanger then follow the left trending gully to bomber belay. Extenders are a must. Leader should be confident at the grade. First 30m originally led with bomber RP’s and flaring cam placements by Mark. A truly inspired lead!

Pitch 2 – 14R (25m Trad) Step right off the belay and look for cam placement on your right. Move up and sling block, then head right around the arete. Committing moves to establish yourself in the obvious groove. Up another 15m on interesting ground to DBB at bottom of headwall.

Pitch 3 – 17 – (30m Mixed) Straight up off the belay, clip 2 hangers to stance under bulge. Place red C3 and .4 around corner. Funky moves for 4m to the right, clip bolt then straight up on great moves and exposure to DBB.

Pitch 4 – 4th class/12 (30m Trad) A bush bashers delight! Take a scramble amongst Queenslands native Flora straight up from belay on easy ground. Take care of how your rope runs and carefully negotiate your way to the wall. Fantastic moves up rock for another 10 metres to Natural belay.

Pitch 5 - 14R (40m Mixed) Absolute class! Great rock and excellent climbing. Aiming for the prominent buttress near the summit, follow the line of weakness off the belay trending right. Find 2 hangers. Bust right through tree line and climb arete being mindful of choss. Climb as high as you can then move left off the arete avoiding obvious loose rock above. Up another 10m. DBB found here.

Pitch 6 – 17R (36m Mixed) Up easy ground and left on to vegitated ledge. Climb LHS of ledge placing small stopper, then committing moves to distant hanger (Original 7th pitch Belay). A C3 Yellow can be found a couple of meters above hanger then daunting moves from whipperville to top of bulge where you will find another hanger. Chase 2 more hangers on runout ground to DBB.

Pitch 7 – (15 - 25m Trad) Choose your own adventure! Bomber .4 2m up from belay then tricky moves to ledge. Original line goes to the left hand side of buttress whilst variant goes to the right. Choose either way and finish on top of the buttress. Beware the Choss on top!

Direct Finish (19 Trad): Straight up the middle of the buttress on hand jams! WARNING: There is an obvious block at the start of the buttress that looks disconnected and has not been fully tested. Be extremely careful if you choose to go this way.

Walk left for 20m to meet tourist track near the summit.

FFA: Jay MacGechan, Mark Kingston 2014.

RHS Variant: Matthew Hunter, Jay MacGechan 2017

Direct Finish: Jay MacGechan, Matthew Hunter 2017

FA: Jay & Mark Kingston, 2014

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