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Description

A newly (Dec 2013) developed cliff full of good intermediate sport climbs. Afternoon shade makes this a good destination in summer. Bring a helmet and all the DEET you can carry, the mozzies are evil!

Well protected with fixed hangers (FHs). The double bolt anchors at the top are often shared between climbs.

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach

From the climber's car park, follow the right hand branch of the trail around the base of the mountain. Follow the trail for about 15 minutes. You will pass a set of benches at a lookout and then walk up a set of stairs. At the top of the stairs there's a path leading up to the left. Follow this path for 50 meters or so and arrive at the base of the cliff at around about Charlie.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

History

View historical timeline

The cliff was developed by Steve Kloske, Oskar Kindbom and Zac Trembath in December 2013.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Variant start to Cruel to be Kind. (First bolt missing) start up blocky overhanging start to second bolt then links into cruel to be kind shares anchors with dancing in the rain

Set

FFA: Zac trembath-pitham Nigel Joyce, 2014

easy climbing,shares anchors with dancing in the rain

Set by Zac Trembath-Pitham

FFA: Zac trembath-pitham Nigel Joyce, 2014

easy climbing

Set by zac trembath-pitham

FFA: Zac trembath-pitham Nigel Joyce, 2014

Missing the first bolt up on good jugs passing two FH and tree on right hand side to ledges up passing another 2 FH to anchors. Often Dirty after rain.

FA: Steve Kloske, 2014

Tricky start on sloppers climbs right hand side of bolts best to stick clip first bolt one move wonder to second bolt clip third FH passing to loss blocks to final FH and anchors

FA: Steve Kloske, 2014

Contrived shares last bolt tmtnlc and anchors

FA: Steve Kloske, 2014

Track meets this climb,first good route on climb wall nice beginners route

FA: Steve Kloske, 2014

Starts to the left of a tree growing very close to the cliff. Shares anchors with 'More Smart More Safe'

FFA: Steve Kloske, 2014

Starts in the "cave" directly in front of tree growing close to the cliff. Low first bolt protects the crux, second bolt is well hidden up to the left. Tend right at the top to the 'Banana King' anchors.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Nigel Woodward & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

Start to the right of tree growing very close to the cliff. Move up on great holds all the way to the top.

FFA: Oskar Kindbom, Nigel Woodward & Steve Kloske, 2013

FFA: Oskar Kindbom, Nigel Woodward & Steve Kloske, 2013

Follows the crack up through the green patch. Shares anchors with 'The Real Rainbow Unicorn'.

As of December 2014 it is missing it's first bolt. It's not too hard to get to the second (now first) bolt, but be careful.

FFA: Nigel Woodward, Oskar Kindbom & Steve Kloske, 2013

Start in front of the comfy belay tree. Bottom bolt missing (noted August 2014) so take a stick-clip.

FFA: Zac Trembath-pitham, Oskar Kindbom & Steve Kloske, 2013

Bottom bolt missing, so take a stick clip for this one (August 2014)

FFA: Zac Trembath-pitham, Steve Kloske & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

FFA: Steve Kloske, Nigel Woodward & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

Up to the left of the orange streak

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

Up to the right of the orange streak. Shares anchors with Old Elvis.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

10/15m left of sideshow bob. One hard move. Shares anchors with Fairy Floss.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 2013

Activity

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