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Candy Mountain

  • Grades: AU
  • Approach time: 15 minutes
  • Photos: 14
  • Ascents: 742

Description

A newly (Dec 2013) developed cliff full of good intermediate sport climbs. Afternoon shade makes this a good destination in summer. Bring a helmet and all the DEET you can carry, the mozzies are evil!

Well protected with fixed hangers (FHs). The double bolt anchors at the top are often shared between climbs.

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach

From the climber's car park, follow the right hand branch of the trail around the base of the mountain. Follow the trail for about 15 minutes well past the Caves Route track. You will pass a set of benches at a lookout and then walk up a set of stairs. At the top of the stairs there's a path leading up to the left. Follow this path for 50 meters or so and arrive at the base of the cliff at around about Charlie.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

History

View historical timeline

The cliff was developed by Steve Kloske, Oskar Kindbom and Zac Trembath in December 2013.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Variant start to Cruel to be Kind. (First bolt missing) start up blocky overhanging start to second bolt then links into cruel to be kind shares anchors with DITR.

Set

FFA: Zac trembath-pitham Nigel Joyce, 9 Feb 2014

Easy climbing, shares anchors with DITR.

Set by Zac Trembath-Pitham

FFA: Zac trembath-pitham Nigel Joyce, 9 Feb 2014

Easy climbing, lichenous.

Set by zac trembath-pitham

FFA: Zac trembath-pitham Nigel Joyce, 9 Feb 2014

Missing the first bolt. Up on good jugs passing two FH and tree on right hand side to ledges. Then up passing another 2 FH to anchors. Often dirty after rain.

FA: Steve Kloske, Jan 2014

Tricky start on slopers. Climbs right hand side of bolts. It's best to stick clip the first bolt then a one move wonder to the second. Clip third FH passing loose blocks to final FH and anchors.

FA: Steve Kloske, Jan 2014

Contrived, shares last bolt and anchors with TMTNLC.

FA: Steve Kloske, Jan 2014

Where the track meets the wall. The first good climb, a nice beginners route.

FA: Steve Kloske, Jan 2014

Starts to the left of a tree growing very close to the cliff. Shares anchors with MSMS.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Jan 2014

Starts in the cavelet directly in front of tree growing close to the cliff. Low first bolt protects the crux, second bolt is well hidden up to the left. Tend right at the top to the BK anchors.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Nigel Woodward & Oskar Kindbom, 21 Dec 2013

Start to the right of tree growing very close to the cliff. Move up on great holds all the way to the top.

FFA: Oskar Kindbom, Nigel Woodward & Steve Kloske, 21 Dec 2013

FFA: Oskar Kindbom, Nigel Woodward & Steve Kloske, 21 Dec 2013

Follows the crack up through the green patch. Shares anchors with TRRU.

As of December 2014 it is missing it's first bolt. It's not too hard to get to the second (now first) bolt, but be careful.

FFA: Nigel Woodward, Oskar Kindbom & Steve Kloske, 21 Dec 2013

Start in front of the comfy belay tree. Bottom bolt missing (noted August 2014) so take a stick-clip.

FFA: Zac Trembath-pitham, Oskar Kindbom & Steve Kloske, 15 Dec 2013

Bottom bolt missing, so take a stick clip for this one (August 2014)

FFA: Zac Trembath-pitham, Steve Kloske & Oskar Kindbom, 15 Dec 2013

FFA: Steve Kloske, Nigel Woodward & Oskar Kindbom, 21 Dec 2013

Up to the left of the orange streak.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 15 Dec 2013

Up to the right of the orange streak. Shares anchors with Old Elvis.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 15 Dec 2013

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 15 Dec 2013

10/15m left of Sideshow Bob. One hard move. Shares anchors with Fairy Floss.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 15 Dec 2013

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