Showing all 12 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
16 | ★★ Clemency
1
15
35m
2
16
30m
3
14
32m
4
12
35m
5
9
30m
6
11
30m
A historical classic adventure climb of great character up the S.E. corner of Tibro to the R of the orange overhanging wall. Named in memory of John Clements who was Les Wood's climbing partner in England. The hardest climb in the state for its day. Although the line is straight, individual pitches zigzag a bit. The major landmarks are the big groove (pitch 3) and the scrubby terrace at half height. Technical hard moves are isolated, but route finding is difficult, protection poor and some holds suspect, so the leader should be very solid in the grade to avoid an epic. There is no obvious LLR and one can easily wander off route into a thrill zone. Start: 10m R of 'Rubicon' on dark brown rock, downhill from the track's apex. Marked 'C'.
A thousand cuts must now be endured passing through vile scrub to attain sanctuary and clemency (?) on the tourist track. FA: FA Les Wood & Donn Groom, 1966 | 190m, 6 | |||
16 | Apricots
Start from the Sent From Above anchor. Directly above the bolted anchor is a nice finger crack. Climb this for about 10m, then move right into the wide chimney-corner and romp up to the Halfway House. FA: Lee Cujes & Erik Smits, 2006 | 28m | |||
22 | ★★ The Mace
3m L of A. Up past slots to base of short crackline (shrub at base). Up this to clip FH, then pit your tips against some razor crimps to easier ground with FH on bulge. Finish at station as for Alienation. FA: Phil Box & Lee Skidmore, 2002 | 18m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★ Alienation
4m L of C DS. This finely sculpted L-leaning thin crack may alienate those without aliens - small SLCD's are a must. Overcome the crack to gain slab where two FH's point the way to the rap station. Sustained climbing at the grade. FA: Lee Skidmore & Phil Box, 2002 | 18m, 2 | |||
19 | ★★ Divergence
Start: At the "D", directly beneath impressive bright orange corner 60m up, 2m L of Guenevere. Climb 4m up to R-facing sickle-corner. Up this to bulge and clip FH. Steep corner through bulge, then follow up L to join Clemency's second pitch at the white flake. Continue up and then move L to ledge with DBB from here you can continue up the Tested Twistical variants. FA: Cameron Fairbairn & Phil Box, 2002 | 20m, 1 | |||
22 | ★★ The Twisticle Connection
1
19
20m
2
17/18
30m
3
22
20m
This route links up a combination of routes to form an exciting multi in it's own right.
Exit: A 70m rope will get you back to the ground in two raps or scramble roped up from Caritas anchor to Halfway House and Rap down Clemency. FA: Ben Carter & Gareth Llewellin, 2005 | 70m, 3, 4 | |||
17 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Left)
This route starts from Divergence's anchor. Head straight up, past 2 FHs, then head L to white flake jug with Piton. Head straight up from here. Joins the 18 variant at small ledge. Clip 1 final FH just below the Caritas anchor. FA: Ben Carter & Gareth Llewellin, 2005 | 35m, 3 | |||
18 | ★ Tested Twisticle (Right)
This route starts from Divergence's anchor. Take the shallow corner, right, following the bolts, then up left, to a small ledge (rejoins the 17 here) & up to another ledge, from where you should be able to see the Caritas anchors and orange corner. Follow the FHs to the anchors at the start of Caritas. FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ben Carter, 2005 | 35m, 4 | |||
17 | ★★ Guenevere
1
14
15m
2
17
30m
3
17
45m
Start: 6m L of Lancelot, at the "G". A solid multipitch undertaking. Experienced Tibro climbers will enjoy the challenges Guenevere offers.
FA: Lee Skidmore, Phil Box & Samantha Coles, 2003 | 90m, 3 | |||
18 | ★ Lancelot
1
14
20m
2
16
30m
3
18
25m
4
15
15m
Start 6m R of Guenevere. Marked 'L'. Originally graded 7! Not many routes get their grade more than doubled between one guidebook and the next.
FA: Ken Grimes, Peter Kennedy & Eric Hewett, 1966 | 90m, 4 | |||
16 | ★ Dreadnought
1
50m
2
20m
3
10m
4
40m
5
35m
6
20m
7
50m
8
30m
9
30m
10
16
20m
11
40m
12
30m
Take wires, RP's and SLCD's to #3. 255 vertical metres from base to summit. Start: 15m R at the 50m high vegetated ramp sloping diagonally R. Marked D.
FA: Ted Cais & Mike Meadows, 1970 | 380m, 12 | |||
18 | Dreadnought VF
1
18
55m
2
10
20m
Starts at the base of Dreadnought's eighth pitch.
FA: Darrin Carter & Mark Poole, 2000 | 75m, 2 |
Showing all 12 routes.