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Fixed Gear: Rusty Anchor

Anchor is extremely rusty.

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Created 9 months ago

description

Start: 1m R on the fallen block beneath the bolted corner.

Up the steep little corner passing FH's to a ledge. Step R to clip bolt on bulge, then up to clip anchor on R. A nice moderate sport route for 'Halfway House'.

© (Matt Schimke)

Route history

13 Jan 2007First ascent: Lee Cujes

Warnings

1 Jul 2023 Warning Fixed Gear: Rusty Anchor

Location

Lat/Lon: -26.92864, 152.94695

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

19 Assigned grade
19
21 [20 - 21] ++ grAId

ethic

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 49 from 39 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 28
Flash 2
Red point 12
Pink point 2
Tick 6
Attempt 15

Comment keywords

tricky fall unprotected scary slippery interesting short awkward sloper hands rest feet technical smooth crap enjoyable nice great fun good crux hard tired solid

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Tue 25 Apr
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