To start, climb the first two pitches of either Blabbermouth or Sunburnt Buttress.
53m (21) Follow the first four FH's of SB until it traverses left. Instead of traversing, head straight up for three more FH's then traverse left below obvious short corner to FH. From here, go up passing five more FH's trending rightward. Belay is up and left from last FH. Taking half a dozen long runners is recommended to reduce rope drag on this long pitch.
24m (19) Step left off belay then up passing six FH's. Eases off in second half.
32m (14) Clip a FH then gradually join the 5th pitch of SB clipping it's last few FH's.
Pitch 2 and 3 have a couple of optional trad pieces. To finish, either continue up last pitch of SB (10) or rappel Blabbermouth (3x60m raps) or El Scorcho (3x60m raps)
19 Nov 2005 | First ascent: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson |
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21,19,14 | Assigned grade |
19 [18 - 20] -- | grAId |
21 | ★★Gareth Llewellin |
Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.
Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!
New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.
Overall quality 64 from 22 ratings.
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Date: 2021
ISBN: 9377779499658
Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.
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ISBN: 9780958079068
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