Start at the chimney flanking the left side of the impressive wall with bolts. 1. 30m (14) Up the chimney. At the first chance step right onto easy angled slab and belay on twin rings above 'Felix'. 2. 40m (14) Finish up juggy corner above.
|2|| The Green Man
Right leaning juggy line on far right side of cliff. Angle eases considerably after first 8m. Step left across line and up wall to finish via headwall right of corner.
Start as for 'The Green Man', about 5m right of 'Battered Flake'. Up easy crack for 5m then traverse left across break to flake in steepness above. Up flake on big jugs (FH), traverse right (crux) to hard vertical transition move and then into good crack. When the angle gets easier step left on the arete and up this juggy wall to the BF anchor.
|4|| Battered Flake
A good central line on the main face which suffers from some loose rock. Approach the orange right facing corner by climbing in from the left. Up the corner (crux), with some small and hard to place gear – bring RP's. From under the roof, traverse right a few metres then up the flake crack above on good jugs. Rap rings are located on the belay ledge.
|5|| The Ember Attack
A long and sustained wall climb on featured grey rock. Bring a full rack, long slings and several RPs for the opening corner of 'Battered Flake'. Climb 'Battered Flake' for 15m to roof. Traverse left for two metres across horizontal then bust through roof (FH) and up sustained and absorbing wall above past a further two FHs and plenty of trad gear. Rap 38m off double rings on ledge (requires two ropes).
Blasts up the prominent orange flakes and groove in the center of the main face five metres left of BF. Up to shallow right facing flake, then direct up past two FH's. Step left after 2nd bolt to gain black groove and up. Run up final slab to rap rings. Loses a star because of bad natural pro.
|23 R||225m,||Unlink route|
Awesome thin climbing on grit-like rock. Blank looking wall with five FH's just left of 'Memento'. Boulder problem start, middle and end with the occasional good hold thrown in to ward off the pump. At small ledge boulder through rooflet and slab easily up to twin rings.
|8|| Fat Cat
The best of a great trio. Ignore the FH and climb pocketed right side of chimney (wires) then traverse right to BR. Up superb textured slab past two more BR's to break (medium SLCD). Finish easily up slab to twin rings high on ledge.
|9|| Fat Cat Direct
The desperate crank past the FH steps the grade up quite considerably.
|10|| Prison Camp
Around the left side of the buttress left of 1. 25m (16) Crack through blocks to bulge, a step right avoids difficulties. Go up short flake and follow huge jugs on right to a small ledge with a bush. 2. 15m (16) Step left and directly up face veering right at the top to exit onto a small ledge, continue straight up on jugs. Take slings. To reach abseil chains above BF crawl along ledges on the right.
|11|| Siamese Corner
Orange corner with blocky roof about 6m left of 'Prison Camp'. 1. 25m (19) Up corner, hand traverse left onto small stance then step back right and through juggy roof crack to small ledge. Be careful of some loose looking blocks in the roof crack. 2. 10m (16) Bulging crack on the right wall above belay ledge. At first opportunity traverse right onto small ledge and excellent big thread anchor around bollard. Rap from this or scramble off right along ledges to reach Battered Flakes anchor.
Start about 60m left of SC at rock cairn. The route follows a left trending line then climbs an overhung corner. A boulder problem start gets the blood flowing for the pumpy overhung middle section which is protected by excellent wires. Natural pro belay on small ledge. Rap off slings around small bollard (may need to be replaced).
Megaline. Good climbing. Start up S (which soon wanders off right). Continue up corner-chimney passing three big overhangs and through a hole behind the fourth.
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