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Description:

This classic short mutl-pitch is the most popular route at the crag. A great mix of gritty jugs and exposure. Take a bunch of slings for lassoing the jugs on pitch 1. Starts about 30m right of Triptych, at ground level on the right side of the Descent Chasm at a juggy grey rounded arete. 1. 45m (18) Up for 10m, step right then back left to surmount a smooth bulge. Up keeping to the left. Finish via a crack in the smooth wall just right and below a bush on the belay ledge. 2. 35m (19) Up ramp right to BR. Traverse 3m right to arete and up ramp diagonally left (as for Infinite Sadness). At top of ramp, step left to hanging prow which is followed direct to the top. Stay on steepest part of headwall for best climbing and pro.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: Pitch 2 - Keith Lockwood, 23 Nov 1996

  • First Ascent: Pitch 1 - Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, 8 Apr 1989

Location:  

Located in Main Face approx:
Long/Lat: 142.330800,-37.092900

Route Grade Citations

17 ** A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians
18, 19
19 Principal
19 *** Grampians Selected Climbs

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux hard fantastic great scary weird feet traverse

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