Forum
Logbook
Help

Band Of Gypsies

  • Grades: AU
  • Approach time: 10mins
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 22

Description

A pleasant group of sunny walls, pinnacles and terraces lining the gully immediately north of Red Rock Pinnacles.

Great in cool, sunny weather, not so if it's warm.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Red Rock Area

Do NOT approach any of the crags in this area across the paddocks from Red Rock Road. The land has recently changed hands and the farmer does not want people crossing the property. Follow the tracks just outside the southern or northern boundaries of the farmland until able to move around the farmland to the area you are going. Please adhere to this to keep open the possibility of negotiated access.

Approach

To climb at the lower end of Band of Gypsies, wander across to the end of the vehicle track, cross the creek, turn L and walk up to the cliff line and follow it uphill to the first climbs. The Grand Oral Disseminator being the obvious line.

To reach the upper section, follow some cairns up to the Cave Boulder, which is directly in front of "Dutch Courage".

Descent: For the lower walls walk off the west or the east ends via the chasm gully. There are plenty of abseil options.

Beyond the chasm the best option is to abseil, either from the chains and slings indicated or from one of many bollards*. The best scramble descent is via narrow rib at the top (east) end of the main crags.

This rib is in a gully just in from the north-east toe of the buttress.

TIP: For abseil descents; please BYO rope slings; for some climbs the ones in place are still serviceable; but slings deteriorate very quickly and end up as useless tat.

© (nmonteith)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

These are the first few climbs to be reached, the Grand Oral Disseminator being the obvious line. These first climbs are described as you come to them (R to L).

Bridge trench to steep finish.

Start: Scramble into belay niche behind pinnacle.

FA: . Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2005

Easy crack left of "Bulldozer In The Background".

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005

Move onto bollard, arrange gear and up to FH. Straight up diagonal seams. Start: Start as for "Heavy Milk, Light Beer"

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005

Crack in left wall of chimney until crack ends. Chimney, or face climb arête, then exit onto left wall, finishing steeply under branch of gum tree.

Start: Start at chimney left of buttress left of "Queen of Der".

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005

Watch out for skating cams and feet on the slick rock.

FA: Malcolm Matheson & Adam Demmert, 2005

Major crack system around left of "Grand Oral Disseminator", behind boulder.

FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2005

Off-width corner/crack 5m L of "Private Parts". Take several #5 cams

FA: Pfrunder & Malcolm Matheson

FA: Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert, James Pfrunder & Malcolm Matheson, 2005

UPPER SECTION: It is actually easier to describe these climbs L to R - since most parties will walk up the hill to check out the mostly bolted Mad Cow area, and work down from there; which makes finding the routes much easier!!

Stick clip first FH, and up it, as for "Bury Me Standing". Up and left to horizontal seam and wire placement. Up past FH to vertical crack and easy ground.

Start: Start as for "Bury Me Standing"

FA: Nick Kiraly & Steve Holloway, 2005

Stick clip first FH, bridge to first holds, stepping right into base of right-leading seam. Up over bulges (2 FHs) to stance at base of rotten crack. Arrange gear, step left and up jugs to top.

Start: Start at far end of an orange wall / semi-detached pinnacle just uphill from Mad Cow.

FA: Steve Holloway & Nick Kiraly, 2005

Pretty exciting stuff. Traverse left past 3 FH on flake, then pull over onto slab. Rap off slings. A worthwhile extended finish has been done by continuing up and L into 2nd runnel, finishing about 5m higher. Start: Start as for "Crazy Like A Fox"

FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2005

Interesting alternate finish to "Mad Cow". At the 2nd FH, make a move R onto slab, then up this to slings.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Steve Chapman & Ross Timms, 2006

Reachy moves up unlikely, pocketed face. Short people might want to add a grade or so.

Start: Start at right-leading ramp.

FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2005

FA: Steve Holloway, 2005

FA: 2005

FA: Mick Hampton & Geoff Butcher

Sustained laybacks on perfect finger locks and edges. Take medium wires and cams. Starts at hanging crack 20m downhill from Mad Cow.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2005

Blocky Line up left of "Gypsy Swing" with a fiery second pitch.

  1. 18m (18) Climb the blocky line. Step left onto arête and go up to belay at base of headwall.

  2. 18m (19) Start up middle of steep wall, then move back right at top of orange streak to finish at notch a few metres left of right arête.

FA: Micahel Hampton & Sharyn George (alt), 2005

Step up and left onto wall following diagonal (small wires) to easier finish. Rap Chain.

Start: Start as for "Gypsy Swing".

FA: Nic Kiraly & Steve Holloway, 2005

Unsercut arete left of "Band Of Thieves" swinging in from the left on a diagonal. Rap Chain.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005

Obvious clean-cut corner-handcrack, easing up after the first several metres. Trend L at the top to rap chain above Gypsy Swing. Might have been done earlier as there was a little white square already in-situ.

FA: FRA Tim Marsh, 2003

Grit-style arete first climbed ground-up and retro-bolted to make it sane. R and downhill from Band of Thieves.

FA: Neil Monteith & Mick Hampton, 2005

The following routes are probably out of order; but hopefully those in the know can put them in their right place.

A tasty excursion. Start: Start as for "Eloquence Of Speech".

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2006

Climb wall behind small pinnacle to horizontal break, then small edges past FH to easier ground, finishing steeply at juggy break.

FA: Steve Holloway & Nic Kiraly, 2005

Steep bucket-pulling with some brittle chicken-heads.

Start: Start at toe of semi-detached pinnacle.

FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2005

Grassy corner on left end of semi-detached pinnacle.

FA: Steve Holloway & Peter Mills, 2005

Steep, right-facing corner left of "Blogger".

FA: Mark Gould & Boudewijn Docter, 2005

Climb corners to the top, with a rest on the big flake forming first corner.

Start: Start as for "Transylvanian Trad".

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005

Go up and right to diagonal crack and follow this and cracks to easy wall. Don't rap from bollard or you'll end up in the trees: continue to top

Start: Start at wall left of orange undercut.

FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2005

Mixed climbing with a short crux. The gully L of "Nice Knobs" is blocked by a black slab.

FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2005

Climb the right side of the recessed ramp and wall up left of the chasm.

FA: Sharyn George & Michael Hampton, 2005

Enjoyable face with good gear.

FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2005

Go diagonally right up the juggy grassland to slightly awkward exit up right-leading crack.

FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2005

Diagonally right up the grassland as for"In A Dark Wood Wandering" to the right-R leading crack. Step across to west-facing headwall of undercut pinnacle and horizontal breaks. Step left and up. Take slings for abseil.

Start: Start as for "In A Dark Wood Wandering".

FA: Sharyn George & Michael Hampton, 2005

From chock-stone climb directly up to FH. Pull onto ramp and climb juggy orange headwall to top.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005

Go up seams then traverse delicately right to below orange bulges (wires). Rock onto bulge and step right to second bulge and cams. Crank up and over right to left-leading exit crack.

Start: Start on the left between some pines.

FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2005

Diagonal cracks in black streak right of "Johnny Depp" to bolt. Step left and follow left-hand line through bulges. Go right a bit and straight up.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2005

Take diagonal seams on nose to left side of bulge in orange headwall.

Start: On the uphill side of semi-detached pinnacle is a corner. Start at nose left of this corner.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2005

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Activity

Check out what is happening in Band Of Gypsies.