Route Grade Style Popularity
1
Over The Top
Bridge trench to steep finish.
Start: Scramble into belay niche behind pinnacle.
FA: . Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 2005
13
Trad 25m
2
The Upside of Anger
Move onto bollard, arrange gear and up to FH. Straight
up diagonal seams.
Start: Start as for "Heavy Milk, Light Beer "
FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 2005
17
Mixed 18m
, 1
3
Grand Oral Disseminator
Watch out for skating cams and feet on the slick rock.
FA: Malcolm Matheson & Adam Demmert, 2005
27
Mixed 25m
, 1
4
Squeezed Out
Off-width corner/crack 5m L of "Private Parts ". Take several #5 cams
FA: Pfrunder, Malcolm Matheson,
FA: Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert, James Pfrunder & Malcolm Matheson, 2005
21
Mixed 13m
, 2
5
Arrested
Sustained laybacks on perfect finger locks and edges. Take medium wires and cams.
FA: Neil Monteith, 2005
24
Trad 12m
6
Over Committed
Grit-style arete first climbed ground-up and retro-bolted to make it sane.
FA: Neil Monteith & Mick Hampton, 2005
20
Mixed 20m
, 2
7
Slow Burn
FA: Mick Hampton & Geoff Butcher,
20
Trad 20m
8
Crazy Like a Fox
Reachy moves up unlikely, pocketed face. Short people might want to add a grade or so.
Start: Start at right-leading ramp.
FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 2005
19
Trad 22m
9
Mad Cow
Pretty exciting stuff.
Start: Start as for "Crazy Like A Fox "
FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 2005
20
Trad 22m
10
Steve Holloway Route
FA: Steve Holloway, 2005
20
Trad 15m
11
Nick Route
FA: , 2005
22
Trad 15m
12
Bury Me Standing
Stick clip first FH, bridge to first holds, stepping right into base of right-leading seam. Up over bulges (2 FHs) to stance at base of rotten crack. Arrange gear, step left and up jugs to top.
Start: Start at far end of small block in front of orange wall of the semi-detached pinnacle.
FA: Steve Holloway, Nick Kiraly, 2005
21
Trad 18m
13
Errol Flynn
Diagonal cracks in black streak right of "Johnny Depp " to bolt. Step left and follow left-hand line through bulges. Go right a bit and straight up.
FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, Sharyn George, 2005
18
Mixed 20m
, 1
14
Dutch Courage
Steep, right-facing corner left of "Blogger ".
FA: Mark Gould, Boudewijn Docter, 2005
20
Trad 18m
15
Bulldozer In The Background
Crack in left wall of chimney until crack ends. Chimney, or face climb arête, then exit onto left wall, finishing steeply under branch of gum tree.
Start: Start at chimney left of buttress left of "Queen of Der ".
FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 2005
10
Trad 20m
16
Gypsy Swing
Unsercut arete left of "Band Of Thieves " swinging in from the left on a diagonal.
FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 2005
17
Trad 18m
17
Rag And Bone
Steep bucket-pulling with some brittle chicken-heads.
Start: Start at toe of semi-detached pinnacle.
FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 2005
11
Trad 40m
18
Reading Palms
Grassy corner on left end of semi-detached pinnacle.
FA: Steve Holloway, Peter Mills, 2005
14
Trad 18m
19
Queen Of Der
A tasty excursion.
Start: Start as for "Eloquence Of Speech ".
FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 2006
21
Mixed 26m
, 2
20
Flashing Eyes
Blocky Line up left of "Gypsy Swing " with a fiery second pitch.
18m (18) Climb the blocky line. Step left onto arête and go up to belay at base of headwall.
18m (19) Start up middle of steep wall, then move back right at top of orange streak to finish at notch a few metres left of right arête.
FA: Micahel Hampton, Sharyn George (alt), 2005
19
Trad 36m
21
Transylvanian Trad
Go up and right to diagonal crack and follow this and cracks to easy wall. Don't rap from bollard or you'll end up in
the trees: continue to top
Start: Start at wall left of orange undercut.
FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 2005
20
Trad 20m
22
Bohemian Ridge
Mixed climbing with a short crux. The gully L of "Nice Knobs " is blocked by a black slab.
FA: Michael Hampton, Sharyn George, 2005
16
Trad 45m
23
Nice Knobs
Climb the right side of the recessed ramp and wall up left of
the chasm.
FA: Sharyn George, Michael Hampton, 2005
12
Trad 40m
24
Read Rover
Enjoyable face with good gear.
FA: Michael Hampton, Sharyn George, 2005
18
Trad 25m
25
In A Dark Wood Wandering
Go diagonally right up the juggy grassland to slightly awkward exit up right-leading crack.
FA: Michael Hampton, Sharyn George, 2005
12
Trad 18m
26
A Fortune Teller
Diagonally right up the grassland as for"In A Dark Wood Wandering" to the right-R leading crack. Step
across to west-facing headwall of undercut pinnacle and
horizontal breaks. Step left and up. Take slings for abseil.
Start: Start as for "In A Dark Wood Wandering ".
FA: Sharyn George, Michael Hampton, 2005
13
Trad 25m
27
Dead Horses
From chock-stone climb directly up to FH. Pull onto
ramp and climb juggy orange headwall to top.
FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 2005
16
Mixed 27m
, 1
28
Steal My Fingers
Step up and left onto wall following diagonal (small wires) to
easier finish.
Start: Start as for "Gypsy Swing ".
FA: Nic Kiraly, Steve Holloway, 2005
20
Trad 18m
29
Eloquence Of Speech
Climb wall behind small pinnacle to horizontal break.
Climb small edges past FH to easier ground,
finishing steeply at juggy break.
FA: Steve Holloway, Nic Kiraly, 2005
21
Trad 20m
30
Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy (BSE)
Interesting alternate finish to "Mad Cow ".
FA: Michael O'Reilly, Steve Chapman, Ross Timms, 2006
20
Trad 25m
31
Steptoe And Scum
Take diagonal seams on nose to left side of bulge in orange headwall.
Start: On the uphill side of semi-detached pinnacle is a corner. Start at nose left of this corner.
FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 2005
20
Trad 18m
32
Band Of Thieves
Might have been done earlier as there was a little white square already in-situ.
FA: FRA Tim Marsh, 2003
19
Trad 23m
33
Heavy Milk, Light Beer
Easy crack left of "Bulldozer In The Background ".
FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 2005
13
Trad 17m
34
Blogger
Climb corners to the top, with a rest on the big flake forming first corner.
Start: Start as for "Transylvanian Trad ".
FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 2005
15
Trad 20m
35
Johnny Depp
Go up seams then traverse delicately right to below orange bulges (wires). Rock onto bulge and step right to second bulge and cams. Crank up and over right to left-leading exit crack.
Start: Start on the left between some pines.
FA: Michael Hampton, Sharyn George, 2005
20
Trad 23m
36
Private Parts
Major crack system around left of "Grand Oral Disseminator ", behind boulder.
FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 2005
21
Trad 26m
37
Gypsy, Sun And Rainbow
Stick clip first FH, and up it, as for "Bury Me Standing ". Up and left to horizontal seam and wire placement. Up past FH to vertical crack and easy ground.
Start: Start as for "Bury Me Standing "
FA: Nick Kiraly, Steve Holloway, 2005
22
Mixed 18m
, 2