Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Description

A pleasant group of sunny walls, pinnacles and terraces lining the gully immediately north of Red Rock Pinnacles.

Great in cool, sunny weather, not so if it's warm.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Red Rock Area

Do NOT approach any of the crags in this area across the paddocks from Red Rock Road. The land has recently changed hands and the farmer does not want people crossing the property. Follow the tracks just outside the southern or northern boundaries of the farmland until able to move around the farmland to the area you are going. Please adhere to this to keep open the possibility of negotiated access.

Approach

To climb at the lower end of Band of Gypsies, wander

across to the end of the vehicle track, cross the creek,

walk up to the cliff line and follow it uphill to the first

climbs.

For the upper section, follow a pad across to the Cave Boulder, which is directly in front of "Dutch Courage".

Descent

For the lower walls walk off the west or the east ends via

the chasm gully. There are plenty of abseil options.

Beyond the chasm the best option is to abseil, either

from the chains and slings indicated or from one of

many bollards. (BYO slings). The best scramble descent

is via narrow rib at the top (east) end of the main crags.

This rib is in a gully just i from the north-east toe of the

buttress.

© (nmonteith)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
13 Over The Top Trad 25m

Bridge trench to steep finish.

Start: Scramble into belay niche behind pinnacle.

FA: . Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 2005

2
17 * The Upside of Anger Mixed 18m, 1

Move onto bollard, arrange gear and up to FH. Straight

up diagonal seams.

Start: Start as for "Heavy Milk, Light Beer"

FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 2005

3
27 ** Grand Oral Disseminator Mixed 25m, 1

Watch out for skating cams and feet on the slick rock.

FA: Malcolm Matheson & Adam Demmert, 2005

4
21 Squeezed Out Mixed 13m, 2

Off-width corner/crack 5m L of "Private Parts". Take several #5 cams

FA: Pfrunder, Malcolm Matheson

FA: Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert, James Pfrunder & Malcolm Matheson, 2005

5
24 * Arrested Trad 12m

Sustained laybacks on perfect finger locks and edges. Take medium wires and cams.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2005

6
20 * Over Committed Mixed 20m, 2

Grit-style arete first climbed ground-up and retro-bolted to make it sane.

FA: Neil Monteith & Mick Hampton, 2005

7
20 * Slow Burn Trad 20m

FA: Mick Hampton & Geoff Butcher

8
19 * Crazy Like a Fox Trad 22m

Reachy moves up unlikely, pocketed face. Short people might want to add a grade or so.

Start: Start at right-leading ramp.

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 2005

9
20 * Mad Cow Trad 22m

Pretty exciting stuff.

Start: Start as for "Crazy Like A Fox"

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 2005

10

FA: Steve Holloway, 2005

11
22 * Nick Route Trad 15m

FA: 2005

12
21 Bury Me Standing Trad 18m

Stick clip first FH, bridge to first holds, stepping right into base of right-leading seam. Up over bulges (2 FHs) to stance at base of rotten crack. Arrange gear, step left and up jugs to top.

Start: Start at far end of small block in front of orange wall of the semi-detached pinnacle.

FA: Steve Holloway, Nick Kiraly, 2005

13
18 * Errol Flynn Mixed 20m, 1

Diagonal cracks in black streak right of "Johnny Depp" to bolt. Step left and follow left-hand line through bulges. Go right a bit and straight up.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, Sharyn George, 2005

14
20 Dutch Courage Trad 18m

Steep, right-facing corner left of "Blogger".

FA: Mark Gould, Boudewijn Docter, 2005

15

Crack in left wall of chimney until crack ends. Chimney, or face climb arête, then exit onto left wall, finishing steeply under branch of gum tree.

Start: Start at chimney left of buttress left of "Queen of Der".

FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 2005

16
17 * Gypsy Swing Trad 18m

Unsercut arete left of "Band Of Thieves" swinging in from the left on a diagonal.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 2005

17
11 Rag And Bone Trad 40m

Steep bucket-pulling with some brittle chicken-heads.

Start: Start at toe of semi-detached pinnacle.

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 2005

18
14 Reading Palms Trad 18m

Grassy corner on left end of semi-detached pinnacle.

FA: Steve Holloway, Peter Mills, 2005

19
21 * Queen Of Der Mixed 26m, 2

A tasty excursion.

Start: Start as for "Eloquence Of Speech".

FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 2006

20
19 Flashing Eyes Trad 36m

Blocky Line up left of "Gypsy Swing" with a fiery second pitch.

  1. 18m (18) Climb the blocky line. Step left onto arête and go up to belay at base of headwall.

  2. 18m (19) Start up middle of steep wall, then move back right at top of orange streak to finish at notch a few metres left of right arête.

FA: Micahel Hampton, Sharyn George (alt), 2005

21
20 * Transylvanian Trad Trad 20m

Go up and right to diagonal crack and follow this and cracks to easy wall. Don't rap from bollard or you'll end up in

the trees: continue to top

Start: Start at wall left of orange undercut.

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 2005

22
16 Bohemian Ridge Trad 45m

Mixed climbing with a short crux. The gully L of "Nice Knobs" is blocked by a black slab.

FA: Michael Hampton, Sharyn George, 2005

23
12 Nice Knobs Trad 40m

Climb the right side of the recessed ramp and wall up left of

the chasm.

FA: Sharyn George, Michael Hampton, 2005

24
18 Read Rover Trad 25m

Enjoyable face with good gear.

FA: Michael Hampton, Sharyn George, 2005

25

Go diagonally right up the juggy grassland to slightly awkward exit up right-leading crack.

FA: Michael Hampton, Sharyn George, 2005

26
13 A Fortune Teller Trad 25m

Diagonally right up the grassland as for"In A Dark Wood Wandering" to the right-R leading crack. Step

across to west-facing headwall of undercut pinnacle and

horizontal breaks. Step left and up. Take slings for abseil.

Start: Start as for "In A Dark Wood Wandering".

FA: Sharyn George, Michael Hampton, 2005

27
16 Dead Horses Mixed 27m, 1

From chock-stone climb directly up to FH. Pull onto

ramp and climb juggy orange headwall to top.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 2005

28
20 Steal My Fingers Trad 18m

Step up and left onto wall following diagonal (small wires) to

easier finish.

Start: Start as for "Gypsy Swing".

FA: Nic Kiraly, Steve Holloway, 2005

29

Climb wall behind small pinnacle to horizontal break.

Climb small edges past FH to easier ground,

finishing steeply at juggy break.

FA: Steve Holloway, Nic Kiraly, 2005

30

Interesting alternate finish to "Mad Cow".

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Steve Chapman, Ross Timms, 2006

31
20 Steptoe And Scum Trad 18m

Take diagonal seams on nose to left side of bulge in orange headwall.

Start: On the uphill side of semi-detached pinnacle is a corner. Start at nose left of this corner.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 2005

32
19 * Band Of Thieves Trad 23m

Might have been done earlier as there was a little white square already in-situ.

FA: FRA Tim Marsh, 2003

33

Easy crack left of "Bulldozer In The Background".

FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 2005

34
15 Blogger Trad 20m

Climb corners to the top, with a rest on the big flake forming first corner.

Start: Start as for "Transylvanian Trad".

FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 2005

35
20 Johnny Depp Trad 23m

Go up seams then traverse delicately right to below orange bulges (wires). Rock onto bulge and step right to second bulge and cams. Crank up and over right to left-leading exit crack.

Start: Start on the left between some pines.

FA: Michael Hampton, Sharyn George, 2005

36
21 * Private Parts Trad 26m

Major crack system around left of "Grand Oral Disseminator", behind boulder.

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 2005

37
22 Gypsy, Sun And Rainbow Mixed 18m, 2

Stick clip first FH, and up it, as for "Bury Me Standing". Up and left to horizontal seam and wire placement. Up past FH to vertical crack and easy ground.

Start: Start as for "Bury Me Standing"

FA: Nick Kiraly, Steve Holloway, 2005

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.