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Description

An exposed and very steep venue located on the far righthand end of the Mt Stapylton massif. 'Access' by taking the walking track from the Mt Zero carpark, then all the way past 'Taipan' Lower/Emu Rock. When the path branches in 2, take the left path (as for Stapylton summit/Cave Club/The Citadel) and continue along for a further 30 seconds. A vague path then leads straight through the bush to the cliffline (visible from the main path). All the problems are steep (roof) following sharp pockets/edges - with some finishes quite exciting due to the 30ft slab which resides beneath the terrace.

© (boardlord)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 17 September 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

In January 2014 a large bushfire swept through the Northern Grampians causing widespread damage to visitor sites, roads and walking tracks. Many popular rockclimbing and bouldering sites were also impacted including Hollow Mountain, Summerday Valley and Mt Stapylton.

The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Recently, Parks Victoria, volunteers and contractors completed recovery projects within rock climbing areas to reinstate damaged walking trails, realign rock climbing access and replace directional signage.

As of Saturday 20th September access will once again be available to rock climbing and bouldering areas within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in addition to those already available in the Flat Rock area. The access track from Flat Rock has been realigned into Grey and Green Walls and to Taipan wall. Please follow these new alignments and refrain from walking off track.

Open Rock Climbing and Bouldering Areas in the Northern Grampians:

  • Central Buttress
  • Grey & Green Walls
  • Taipan Wall (Upper and Lower)
  • Spurt Wall
  • Epsilon Wall
  • Trackside Bouldering area
  • Snakepit
  • Wildsides
  • Spurt and Afterglow

Closures remain in place at all other Northern Grampians Climbing and Bouldering sites for the time being, including Summerday Valley, Andersons, The kindergarten, Van Diemens Land and Cut Lunch Walls. Stapylton Campground also remains closed. Plantation Campground is the closest, open campground.

Parks Victoria will continue to assess damage and undertake recovery works over the coming months. Updates will be posted as re-openings occur. Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on anyone found in any closed, fire affected areas.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parks.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Flat Rock
  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V3 ** Railroad Boulder

Left most problem. Sit start and move up to the good edge in the break, then gaston and undercling your way out the lip to an interesting mantle. Classic.

2
V4 Carpet Crawler Boulder

Start as for 'Railroad' then finish as for 'Cinema Show'.

3
V4 * Slot Machine Boulder

Sit start with the good slots just right of 'Railroad' and make a big move (crux) up to the good holds in the roof. Finish as for the mantle on 'Railroad'. Punchy!

4
V4 * Railway Machine Boulder

Start as for 'Slot Machine' and traverse right into 'Cinema Show'. Finish up this.

5
V3 * Cinema Show Boulder

An independant and direct line right of 'Slot Machine'.

6
V4 Orange Goblin Boulder

The line left of 'Kamikaze'. Could be the flakeline ending nowhere in particular.

7
V6 * Kamikaze Boulder

Should be obvious due to the name, the nature of the crux, and the whereabouts of the 30ft slab under the final move. Sit start and make a HUGE move out of a RH pocket undercling to the massive jug out on the lip, either direct or via the intermediate sloper. What ever you do - don't come off the match!

8
V4 ** To Catch a Thief Boulder

A variation of the previous problem, but better. Starting off the sloper above the shelf (right of previous problem), make a move left to the good pocket, then cross to the prominent 2-finger pocket and span out left into 'I Must Have Been the Thief'. Finish as for this.

9

Awkward sit start off the raised platform from two good large pockets, then up directly via more pockets (clue - gaston) to lip jug.

10
V6 Bomb Shell Boulder

Line left of 'Chas Remains'. Details uncertain.

11
V6 *** Remains of Sheep Boulder

A variation, but one of the best lines here. Starts as for 'Chas Remains' to the 3-finger pocket, then gaston right and continue rightwards past good pockets and a pinch, finishing as for 'Between the Sheeps'. A great 13-move pumpfest. Watch the landing on the final move.

12

A direct line out from the start of When We Were Kings to a 'thread' undercling, then big move out to the large pocket, then finish directly (same finish as for 'Remains of the Sheep'). Watch the landing! Note: The original write up finished as for 'Chas Remains' and was given V7.

13
V11 *** When we were kings Boulder

Only one of the moves on this 14 move roof traverse is hard. Unfortunately all the rest require exactly the same muscles, ensuring a month long bicep ache. Fred Nicole didn't do it! Can you?

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

14
V12 ** Kings Cross Boulder

A more direct line into When We Were Kings, starting further to the right.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

15
V6 * Family Loss Boulder

The name becomes apparent as soon as you take position in the sit start (there's a tree between your legs). Awkward low start then up via crimps and a fantastic finish jug.

16
V5 *** Anal Head Boulder

The very attractive line right of 'Family Loss' starting with a very low sit start under the roof utilising a LH pinch/pocket on the rib and a large RH gaston. Up through slopers and another gaston (or sidepull) to finish.

17
V4 * Wirschllsiada Boulder

Line just right of 'Anal Head'.

18
V4 ** Chas Remains Boulder

Dangerous. Probably even more committing than 'Kamikaze'. Start off the shelf and reach up for a prominent 'spike' jug, then climb directly out to the deep 3-finger pocket. Turn 90 degrees and place your feet on the holds of the next problem, and make a most worrying couple of moves for the big 'flake' jug out on the lip. 15 spotters and a blow up bouncy castle useful...or just pre-order the ambulance.

19
V0 Project#2 Boulder

Project to the right of the finish of 'Kings Cross'.

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