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Description

An exposed and very steep venue located on the far righthand end of the Mt Stapylton massif. 'Access' by taking the walking track from the Mt Zero carpark, then all the way past 'Taipan' Lower/Emu Rock. When the path branches in 2, take the left path (as for Stapylton summit/Cave Club/The Citadel) and continue along for a further 30 seconds. A vague path then leads straight through the bush to the cliffline (visible from the main path). All the problems are steep (roof) following sharp pockets/edges - with some finishes quite exciting due to the 30ft slab which resides beneath the terrace.

© (boardlord)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Left most problem. Sit start and move up to the good edge in the break, then gaston and undercling your way out the lip to an interesting mantle. Classic.

Start as for 'Railroad' then finish as for 'Cinema Show'.

Sit start with the good slots just right of 'Railroad' and make a big move (crux) up to the good holds in the roof. Finish as for the mantle on 'Railroad'. Punchy!

Start as for 'Slot Machine' and traverse right into 'Cinema Show'. Finish up this.

An independant and direct line right of 'Slot Machine'.

The line left of 'Kamikaze'. Could be the flakeline ending nowhere in particular.

Should be obvious due to the name, the nature of the crux, and the whereabouts of the 30ft slab under the final move. Sit start and make a HUGE move out of a RH pocket undercling to the massive jug out on the lip, either direct or via the intermediate sloper. What ever you do - don't come off the match!

A variation of the previous problem, but better. Starting off the sloper above the shelf (right of previous problem), make a move left to the good pocket, then cross to the prominent 2-finger pocket and span out left into 'I Must Have Been the Thief'. Finish as for this.

Awkward sit start off the raised platform from two good large pockets, then up directly via more pockets (clue - gaston) to lip jug.

Line left of 'Chas Remains'. Details uncertain.

A variation, but one of the best lines here. Starts as for 'Chas Remains' to the 3-finger pocket, then gaston right and continue rightwards past good pockets and a pinch, finishing as for 'Between the Sheeps'. A great 13-move pumpfest. Watch the landing on the final move.

A direct line out from the start of When We Were Kings to a 'thread' undercling, then big move out to the large pocket, then finish directly (same finish as for 'Remains of the Sheep'). Watch the landing! Note: The original write up finished as for 'Chas Remains' and was given V7.

Only one of the moves on this 14 move roof traverse is hard. Unfortunately all the rest require exactly the same muscles, ensuring a month long bicep ache. Fred Nicole didn't do it! Can you?

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

A more direct line into When We Were Kings, starting further to the right.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

The name becomes apparent as soon as you take position in the sit start (there's a tree between your legs). Awkward low start then up via crimps and a fantastic finish jug.

The very attractive line right of 'Family Loss' starting with a very low sit start under the roof utilising a LH pinch/pocket on the rib and a large RH gaston. Up through slopers and another gaston (or sidepull) to finish.

Line just right of 'Anal Head'.

Dangerous. Probably even more committing than 'Kamikaze'. Start off the shelf and reach up for a prominent 'spike' jug, then climb directly out to the deep 3-finger pocket. Turn 90 degrees and place your feet on the holds of the next problem, and make a most worrying couple of moves for the big 'flake' jug out on the lip. 15 spotters and a blow up bouncy castle useful...or just pre-order the ambulance.

Project to the right of the finish of 'Kings Cross'.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Between the Sheeps.