Details needed

This crag does not have approach information!

Could you describe the approach to this crag?

If you can help provide a better quality resource for the climbing community then please click 'Edit this crag' button near the top of the page.

Description

The main south-west outcrop at Buandik. Billywing Bluff is the distinctive overhanging red wall at the west end. The first climbs are on the north side, just downhill from the Lego Blocks.

The climbs are described in an ant-clockwise direction.

© (kieranl)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
12 Praying Mantis Trad 40m
2
14 Keeyuga Unknown 15m

At the top of Green 'Gully' is a corner with a bouldery start.

FA: Peter Campbell, Rhyl Shaw, Michael Hampton, 1993

3
10 Peek A Boo Trad 18m

Climb the laid-back arete right of gully to finish through overlap.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Judy Grove, 1993

4
25 Wayne's World Trad 18m

Technical seam 3 metres right of "Walking Under Strictest Secrecy" to easy finish.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1993

5
22 ** Squat Or Rot Trad 25m

Steep climbing on good holds. The obvious line a few metres right of "Domino"

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1994

6

Tricky start to the easiest of the three lines.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

7
23 ** Slapdance Mixed 25m, 1

Superb flake-line just right of "Cornered" (PR and FH) to ledge. Finish up overhanging corner.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Malcolm Matheson, 1993

8
16 Finger Buckets Trad 18m

Climb the centre of the wall. The fingery start eases to pleasant bucket hauling.

Start: Just inside the wider, central chasm is a steep wall on the left.

FA: Michael Hampton, Peter Campbell, 1993

9
12 The Big Mammu Trad 45m

Climb the front of the obvious rib between two chasms.

Start: There is a slender gum growing in front of the cliff.

FA: Peter Campbell, Michael Hampton (alt) and Rhyl Shaw, 1993

10
24 * Cornered Trad 20m

Intricate bridging in sustained diagonal corner to a steep exit.

Start: Start on the terrace, at left side of wall.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Glenn Tempest, 1993

11
10 Lager Trad 70m

Climb the greyish rib on the right side of the most compact slab area. Continue easily up cracks and jugs.

FA: Michael Hampton (solo), 1993

12

Climb the orange wall to weakness in the dark rock above. Belay at ledge a few metres higher. Downclimb back of buttress into gully.

Start: Start a few metres right of the chossy black off-width.

FA: Peter Campbell, Stuart Imer, Michael Hampton, 1993

13
15 Acting The Goat Trad 40m

Start: Scramble up into the cave at base of bluff. Start from ramp at left end.

  1. 20m (15) Climb the wall to gap at top left of cave. Pull on jugs to gain wall above. Continue to belay level with upper terrace.

  2. 20m (-) Go up right and up the easy arete.

FA: Pitch 1: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher. Pitch 2 : Edwin Young, Kate Hilton (same day), 1994

14
18 Mundarnin Trad 18m

Overhang then crack and wall on east end of "Wall Of Deceit", finishing right under the overhang.

FA: Michael Hampton, Peter Campbell, 1993

15
18 Shut The Fuck Up! Unknown 20m

A bucket haul with a fun conclusion.

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1993

16
19 Please Shut Up Trad 18m

Start up "Shut The Fuck Up!" but continue up the steep arete on fantastic holds.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

17
16 Stick Lizard Unknown 12m

Takes the centre of the face on block overlooking head of Green 'Gully'.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

18
17 Stout Trad 70m

As it was, soloed potential protection is unknown.

Start: Start at the left side of the slab, 5 metres right of the chasm.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Richard Smith (both solo), 1993

19
17 Strawman Trad 18m

The crack above the start to the terrace access ramp

FA: Peter Campbell, Michael Hampton, 1993

20
15 Goanna Trad 15m

The crack in the nose right of "Honey Pot".

FA: Peter Campbell, Michael Hampton, 1983

21
23 * Domino Trad 35m

Thin line past grass clumps and on to a stance. Left up ramp to pull on to a hanging slab. Step awkwardly right and up to top.

Start: Start at the thin line just right of the dished overhang.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Greg Caire, 1994

22
20 * Honey Pot Trad 12m

Another Buandik gem.

Start: Start at the head of the next chasm.

FA: Michael Hampton, Rhyl Shaw.(FTRA Peter Campbell), 1993

23

Excellent climbing up the nose at the gully intersection.

Start: Scramble up to the descent gully.

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1993

24
18 Bitter Trad 70m

The groove right of "Stout" then continue all the way.

FA: Richard Smith (solo), 1993

25
14 Half Burnt Match Trad 50m

Start: Start at the lovely clean crack 1m right of the black line forming

the black identifying chimney.

FA: Doig, Dionne Norgate, Erik ?

FA: Glen Buchanan, Louise, 2001

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.