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The main south-west outcrop at Buandik. Billywing Bluff is the distinctive overhanging red wall at the west end. The first climbs are on the north side, just downhill from the Lego Blocks.

The climbs are described in an ant-clockwise direction.

© (kieranl)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
12 Praying Mantis Trad 40m
14 Keeyuga Unknown 15m

At the top of Green 'Gully' is a corner with a bouldery start.

FA: Peter Campbell, Rhyl Shaw, Michael Hampton, 1993

10 Peek A Boo Trad 18m

Climb the laid-back arete right of gully to finish through overlap.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Judy Grove, 1993

25 Wayne's World Trad 18m

Technical seam 3 metres right of "Walking Under Strictest Secrecy" to easy finish.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1993

22 ** Squat Or Rot Trad 25m

Steep climbing on good holds. The obvious line a few metres right of "Domino"

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1994


Tricky start to the easiest of the three lines.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

23 ** Slapdance Mixed 25m, 1

Superb flake-line just right of "Cornered" (PR and FH) to ledge. Finish up overhanging corner.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Malcolm Matheson, 1993

16 Finger Buckets Trad 18m

Climb the centre of the wall. The fingery start eases to pleasant bucket hauling.

Start: Just inside the wider, central chasm is a steep wall on the left.

FA: Michael Hampton, Peter Campbell, 1993

12 The Big Mammu Trad 45m

Climb the front of the obvious rib between two chasms.

Start: There is a slender gum growing in front of the cliff.

FA: Peter Campbell, Michael Hampton (alt) and Rhyl Shaw, 1993

24 * Cornered Trad 20m

Intricate bridging in sustained diagonal corner to a steep exit.

Start: Start on the terrace, at left side of wall.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Glenn Tempest, 1993

10 Lager Trad 70m

Climb the greyish rib on the right side of the most compact slab area. Continue easily up cracks and jugs.

FA: Michael Hampton (solo), 1993


Climb the orange wall to weakness in the dark rock above. Belay at ledge a few metres higher. Downclimb back of buttress into gully.

Start: Start a few metres right of the chossy black off-width.

FA: Peter Campbell, Stuart Imer, Michael Hampton, 1993

15 Acting The Goat Trad 40m

Start: Scramble up into the cave at base of bluff. Start from ramp at left end.

  1. 20m (15) Climb the wall to gap at top left of cave. Pull on jugs to gain wall above. Continue to belay level with upper terrace.

  2. 20m (-) Go up right and up the easy arete.

FA: Pitch 1: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher. Pitch 2 : Edwin Young, Kate Hilton (same day), 1994

18 Mundarnin Trad 18m

Overhang then crack and wall on east end of "Wall Of Deceit", finishing right under the overhang.

FA: Michael Hampton, Peter Campbell, 1993

18 Shut The Fuck Up! Unknown 20m

A bucket haul with a fun conclusion.

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1993

19 Please Shut Up Trad 18m

Start up "Shut The Fuck Up!" but continue up the steep arete on fantastic holds.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

16 Stick Lizard Unknown 12m

Takes the centre of the face on block overlooking head of Green 'Gully'.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

17 Stout Trad 70m

As it was, soloed potential protection is unknown.

Start: Start at the left side of the slab, 5 metres right of the chasm.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Richard Smith (both solo), 1993

17 Strawman Trad 18m

The crack above the start to the terrace access ramp

FA: Peter Campbell, Michael Hampton, 1993

15 Goanna Trad 15m

The crack in the nose right of "Honey Pot".

FA: Peter Campbell, Michael Hampton, 1983

23 * Domino Trad 35m

Thin line past grass clumps and on to a stance. Left up ramp to pull on to a hanging slab. Step awkwardly right and up to top.

Start: Start at the thin line just right of the dished overhang.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Greg Caire, 1994

20 * Honey Pot Trad 12m

Another Buandik gem.

Start: Start at the head of the next chasm.

FA: Michael Hampton, Rhyl Shaw.(FTRA Peter Campbell), 1993


Excellent climbing up the nose at the gully intersection.

Start: Scramble up to the descent gully.

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1993

18 Bitter Trad 70m

The groove right of "Stout" then continue all the way.

FA: Richard Smith (solo), 1993

14 Half Burnt Match Trad 50m

Start: Start at the lovely clean crack 1m right of the black line forming

the black identifying chimney.

FA: Doig, Dionne Norgate, Erik ?

FA: Glen Buchanan, Louise, 2001

Open trips

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