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North facing single pitch climbing known for its good cracks around 18. Despite the frenzy of development, the new sport routes are average. Recent rebolting of some older face routes should make them more appealing.
Access issues
Black Ians/Lil Lil is a part of Red Rock Bushland Reserve. This is a Crown Land Reserve which means there is a balance between values and recreation. Cultural heritage within this reserve though, is managed under the Aboriginal Heritage Act (2006) which places rules and restrictions around registered sites - rock art, shelters and other values such as scar trees etc. This reserve has significant cultural values so care and respect should be taken when climbing. Please refrain from developing climbs that use fixed protection. This will impact access. CEASE BOLTING REQUEST currently in place https://cliffcare.org.au/grampians/black-range/ Please do not camp in the cave. Do not graffiti the rock.
Approach
Where to stay
The landowner allows camping just below the crag for a small fee. Please use the honesty box.
Ethic
To protect Aboriginal art work at Black Ian's Rocks, the VCC requests that you do not boulder in the cave (formally known as 'camping cave') and avoid these three routes 'No Rest For The Wicked', 'Jump For Joy' and 'In The Cooler'. It would also be appreciated if climbers used the left hand cracks to start 'Traversity Of Justice' and 'Malicious Intent'.
For more information about the art contact :
Barengi Gadjin Land Council Cultural Heritage - RAP Manager - Darren Griffin 03 5381 0977
Parks Victoria - Area Chief Ranger – 8427 3505
Activity
Check out what is happening in Black Ian's Rocks.