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Access issues inherited from Grampians

The northern part of the Park, including Mt Stapylton is currently closed to all access following the January 2014 fires. Check the Access Issues for each area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

National Park

Ethic

To protect Aboriginal art work at Black Ian's Rocks, the VCC requests that you do not boulder in the camping cave and avoid these three routes 'No Rest For The Wicked', 'Jump For Joy' and 'In The Cooler'. It would also be appreciated if climbers used the left hand cracks to start 'Traversity Of Justice' and 'Malicious Intent'.

For more information about the art, contact Alan Burns at the Goolum Aboriginal Co-op, 03 5382 5033.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
3
4
15 Summons Trad 12m
5
11 Royal Commission Trad 12m
6
13 First Offence Trad 11m
8
19 Crime Story Trad 10m
9
12 The Chair Trad 10m
10
17 TCU Trad 10m
11
12
23 Pleading Insane Trad 10m
13
20 Jail Bait Trad 10m
14
19 Shoot On Sight Trad 10m
16
22 * Snapper Crack Trad 25m
20
21
13 Please Be Seated Trad 15m
22
22 Not Lichen the Verdict Sport 12m, 2

Just R of Please be Seated up past 2 FH

FFA: Darren Marney & Ramon Francis, 3rd Aug

23
24 Full Weight of the Law Sport 10m, 2

Just L of Rumpole up past 2 FH to lower off under tumble of boulders which are surprisingly stable

FFA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 2nd Aug

24
13 Rumpole Trad 15m
25
25 Vexatious Complaint Sport 12m, 2

Start at base of Ipso Facto then head L & up past 2 FH.

FFA: Ramon Francis & Darren Marney, 17th Aug

26
15 Ipso Facto Trad 15m
27
23 Without Prejudice Sport 12m, 4

Start on undercut arete 3m L of Slanderous Discourse. 4 FH

FFA: Ramon Francis & Darren Marney, 3rd Aug

28
22 Unknown Mixed 15m, 1

Starts just left of Slanderous Discourse. Up past RB & wires to double UB abseil

FFA: Unknown

29
30
14 Minor Offence Trad 15m
31
14 G.B.H. Trad 20m
33
21 Lichen Life Mixed 18m, 4

2m L of FiaCP a couple of medium wires & 4 FH

FFA: Ramon Francis & Darren Marney, 3rd Aug

34

Start 5 left of Habeus Corpus. Straight up past 5FHs.

FFA: Ramon Francis, 1st Jul

35
13 Habeus Corpus Trad 27m
36
15 Hard Labour Trad 25m
37
12 Bagatelle Trad 27m
38
15 Bail Refused Trad 30m
40
25 Peaceful Resolution Mixed 23m, 3

2m L of The Willows Milkbar. 3 RB's & small to medium wires.

FFA: Ramon Francis & Ben Eichler, 2001

41
42
23 Murder One Trad 25m
43
22 * Mr Meaner Trad 25m
44
20 Short Term Trad 15m
45
10 Breakout Trad 19m
46
17 Blunt Instrument Trad 12m
47
24 * Out of Line Sport 17m, 5

Start 2m L of Pudgy. Up 3m out to arête. Keep on R wall avoiding L wall & chock-stone for full value, (& grade) move R at break up, back L & up. (Straight up from 2nd FH is "In Line" not done yet) 5 FH.

FA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 2nd Aug

48
24 ** Pudgy Trad 25m
49
24 * Caveat Emptor Trad 25m
50
17 Barbed Tongue Trad 23m
52
26 ** Red Tape Trad 20m
53
23 Cross Examination Mixed 20m, 3

Start 2m L of OK I Confess. Up past 3 FH reaching into OKIC for one hold then back L & long move up L to big ledge, finish as for OKIC.

FFA: Ramon Francis & Darren Marney, 26th Jul

54
23 * OK, I Confess Trad 20m
55
11 The Jury Box Trad 21m
56
24 ** Affirmative Action Mixed 17m, 4

Start on blunt arête just R of Jury Box. 4 FH, after 4th FH stay R of arête on face for full value to a red BD C3 SLCD prior to topping out.

FFA: Ramon Francis, Darren Marnay & Dale Rankin, 15th Jun

57
23 Life and Death Trad 25m
58
26 Gavel Rash Sport Project 18m, 6

2m Left of BRD

59
26 Beyond Reasonable Doubt Mixed 18m, 4

Start 5m R of AA. Straight up past 4 FH & red or yellow BD C3, large & small wires.

FFA: Ramon Francis, 1st Jul

60
21 * Zuma Trad 25m
61
62
18 *** Prosecutor Trad 27m
63
18 Fatal Attraction Trad 30m
64
23 Persona Non Grata Trad 25m

Blunt arête past 2 FHs to half height then traverse way L into Prosecutor to finish.

FFA: David Blennerhassett, Darren Keenan, 1989

65
25 Persona Grata Mixed 20m, 5

As for Persona Non Grata but blast straight on up blunt arête past 3 more FHs

FFA: Ramon Francis, 2014

66
24 Life Trad 25m
67
16 * Decree Nisi Trad 25m
68
17 Unfit to Stand Trad 25m
69
20 Caught Short Trad 25m
70
17 Gallows Pole Trad 27m
71
18 ** Chancery Lane Trad 27m
72

Starts just right of RAaB. Very good technical face climbing past 5 bolts to lower off. Two reachy cruxes separated by moderate climbing. Will be harder for the vertically challenged

FFA: Adam Demmert, Ramon Francis, 14th Aug

73

Re-bolted by Glenn June 2014. Now 5 RB's

74
17 Final Appeal Trad 30m
75
23 Crime of Passion Trad 20m
76
21 Haley Beth Trad 35m
77
79
21 * Malicious Intent Trad 23m
81

To protect rock art, it is requested that this route not be climbed.

82
23 Jump for Joy Trad 22m

To protect rock art, it is requested that this route not be climbed.

83
24 * In The Cooler Trad 23m

To protect rock art, it is requested that this route not be climbed.

84
21 ** Legal Aid Trad 27m
85
20 The Hanging Slab Trad 10m
86
24 * Down By Law Trad 20m
87
89
19 * Carnal Knowledge Trad 28m
90
18 In Session Trad 16m
91
25 * Pro Bono Publico Sport 20m, 8

Start as for In Session then head R past 5FH to cave. (New 3rd bolt added as original was desperate to clip) Exit steeply on R past 3FH

FFA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 8th Jun

92
20 Partially Not Guilty Mixed 20m, 3

As for Guilty until 2/3 height then traverse L on good edges into base of cave. Finish as for Pro Bono Publico past 3 FHs

FFA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 8th Jun

93
22 Guilty Trad 20m
94
23 * Law and Order Trad 20m
95
17 *** Subpoena Trad 21m
96
24 ** Street Legal Mixed 20m, 4

Re-bolted by Glenn Aug 2014. Now 4 RB's & lower off. Lower off is easily accessible from the top.

97
20 * Hang On Trad 20m
98
21 * The Hanging Trad 20m
99
26 ** Magna Carta Sport 16m, 4

Blunt arête just R of The Hanging. 4 FHs

FFA: Ramon Francis & Darren Marney, 1st Jun

103
10 False Pretences Trad 15m
104
16 The Enquiry Trad 16m
105
24 ** Legal Eagle Trad 15m
106
21 Doing Time Trad 15m
107
16 Acquitted Trad 12m
108
17 Press Gallery Trad 12m
109
10 On Probation Trad 12m
110
111
17 Petty Sessions Trad 18m
113
15 Stool Pigeon Trad 15m
115
11 The Dock Trad 15m
116
17 The Dock Roof Trad 20m
117
24 ** Itchy Fingers Trad 15m
118
121
122

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