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Ethic

To protect Aboriginal art work at Black Ian's Rocks, the VCC requests that you do not boulder in the camping cave and avoid these three routes 'No Rest For The Wicked', 'Jump For Joy' and 'In The Cooler'. It would also be appreciated if climbers used the left hand cracks to start 'Traversity Of Justice' and 'Malicious Intent'.

For more information about the art, contact Alan Burns at the Goolum Aboriginal Co-op, 03 5382 5033.

Routes

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Grade Route
3
4
15 Summons Trad 12m
5
11 Royal Commission Trad 12m
6
13 First Offence Trad 11m
8
19 Crime Story Trad 10m
9
12 The Chair Trad 10m
10
17 TCU Trad 10m
11
12
23 Pleading Insane Trad 10m
13
20 Jail Bait Trad 10m
14
19 Shoot On Sight Trad 10m
16
24 Kangaroo Court Mixed 10m, 2

Start as for Snapper Crack. Step L up past 2FH and wires

Set by Ramon Francis, 2014

FA: Ramon Francis & Andy Schmutter, 2014

17
22 * Snapper Crack Trad 25m

"An exciting climb which is guaranteed to leave your forearms screaming. It takes the right leading crack about 15m right of the descent gully. Up the slab and into the crack. Jam your way to stance under roof, then finish up pumpy wall past fixed pegs." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Chris Peisker & Coral Bowman, 1978

18

"Varied and interesting climbing on rock that is reminiscent of Arapiles. Start 3m right of Snapper Crack. Up the slab, then up an awkward seam. Continue diagonally across and up wall till a couple of hard moves bring the overlap to hand. Finish up tiring wall." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Glenn Tempest & Stephen Hamilton, 1988

19
22 Walk Free Mixed 12m, 2

3m R of What's the Verdict. Climb the line direct past 2FH & trad gear

Set by Ramon Francis, 2014

FFA: Ramon Francis & Andrew Schmutter, 2014

22
23
13 Please Be Seated Trad 15m

Crack with a small cave at its base.

24
22 Not Lichen the Verdict Sport 12m, 2

Just R of Please be Seated up past 2 FH

FFA: Darren Marney & Ramon Francis, 2014

25
24 Full Weight of the Law Sport 10m, 2

Just L of Rumpole up past 2 FH to lower off under tumble of boulders which are surprisingly stable

FFA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 2014

26
13 Rumpole Trad 15m
27
25 Vexatious Complaint Sport 12m, 2

Start at base of Ipso Facto then head L & up past 2 FH to DRB lower off.

FFA: Ramon Francis & Darren Marney, 2014

28
15 * Ipso Facto Trad 15m
29
23 Without Prejudice Sport 12m, 4

Start on undercut arete 3m L of Slanderous Discourse. 4 FH to DUB abseil

FFA: Ramon Francis & Darren Marney, 2014

30
22 Unknown Mixed 15m, 1

Starts just left of Slanderous Discourse. Up past RB & wires to double UB abseil

FFA: Unknown

31

"Much better than it looks. Start up the sickle-shaped crack just left of the yucky chimney descent. Finish straight up." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Parrish Robbins, Glenn Tempest & Stephen Hamilton, 1990

32
14 Minor Offence Trad 15m
33
14 G.B.H. Trad 20m

"Interesting and thought provoking climbing up slabby rock. Start 3m right of horrible chimney at rightward curving crack. Move up and left to faint crack, follow this until it fades, then step right and up." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Keith Egerton, 1976

34

"The crack and unlikely bulge immediately right of GBH. The name says it all." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

35
22 Lichen Justice Sport 15m, 3

4m left of Lichen Life. 4FH

Set by Ramon Francis, 2014

FFA: Ramon Francis & Andrew Schmutter, 2014

36
21 * Lichen Life Sport 18m, 4

2m left of Found in Coprimising Postion. Fairly easy ground up crack to high first bolt, which can be protected with medium wires if you are feeling mortal. Up delicate face, top out left after last bolt.

FFA: Ramon Francis & Darren Marney, 2014

37

Start 5 left of Habeus Corpus. Straight up past 5FHs.

FFA: Ramon Francis, 2014

38
14 Habeus Corpus Trad 27m

"An interesting variant start to Bagatelle. Takes the low angled crack in the grey slab 5m left of Bagatelle before moving right and finishing as for that route." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Bob Connell, Keith Lockwood, Rein Kamar & Ben Sandilands, 1972

39
15 Hard Labour Trad 25m
40
12 Bagatelle Trad 27m

"Start at the corner system near the right end of the grey, lichen covered slab. Initialled. Follow the left crack and finish up the left hand corner." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Peter Watling & Sebastian Rainer, 1972

41
15 Bail Refused Trad 30m

"A slightly tricker finish to Bagatelle. Up Bagatelle then follow the right hand corner/ crack to the top. Beware of loose rock on the stance below final off-width." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: John Chapman, 1978

42
25 ** Sheep May Safely Graze Mixed 25m, 3

"This superb climb tackles the attractive orange rock passing three bolts, immediately right of Bagatelle. Unfortunately the second bolt is poorly positioned and might be preferable to pre-clip it with a sling before starting." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Lincoln Sheppard, Chris Peisker & Louise Sheppard, 1988

43
25 Peaceful Resolution Mixed 23m, 3

2m L of The Willows Milkbar. 3 RB's & small to medium wires.

FFA: Ramon Francis & Ben Eichler, 2001

44

"The wall 4m left of Mr Meaner has a couple of lines with common start. Move left into curving flake and turn the bulge at its left end." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

45
23 * Murder One Trad 25m

"This companion route to The Willows Milkbar offers interesting climbing up the thin right leaning seam before finishing with an amusing mantle over a small overhang."

FFA: Simon Mentz & Stephen Hamilton, 1988

46
22 * Mr Meaner Trad 25m

"This alluring arete is a committing lead and is a popular top rope problem. Don't forget your RP's. Up the wall and arête 5m left of Short Term." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Glenn Tempest & Paul Daniels, 1981

47
20 Short Term Trad 15m

"The mean looking, black crackless corner, starting from the terrace." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Neil Parker, Rod Young & Kim Carrigan, 1979

48
10 Breakout Trad 19m
49
17 Blunt Instrument Trad 12m
50
24 * Out of Line Sport 17m, 5

Start 2m L of Pudgy. Up 3m out to arête. Keep on R wall avoiding L wall & chock-stone for full value, (& grade) move R at break up, back L & up. (Straight up from 2nd FH is "In Line" not done yet) 5 FH.

FA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 2014

51
24 ** Pudgy Trad 25m

"What on earth has this name Pudgy got to do with legal stuff is anyone's guess. Desperately thin wall climbing which is also a wee bit committing up high. Up the wall with the ring bolt, 5m left of Caveat Emptor." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Lincoln Shepard & Chris Peisker, 1988

52
24 * Caveat Emptor Mixed 25m, 1

"This tricky face climb was originally led by Richard Smith without the bolt. It was placed shortly after by Louise Shepard who was unaware of Smithy's ascent. The arete just left of Barbed Tongue." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Richard Smith & Glenn Tempest, 1988

53
17 Barbed Tongue Trad 23m

Initialed faintly. Start at small corner with the twin cracks left of Red Tape. Climb corner to triangular roof and continue up right line to top.

FFA: Chris Dewhirst, Bob Connell & Rein Kamar, 1972

54

"This route offers excellent and sustained bridging. Start at the small corner with the twin cracks, just left of Red Tape. Faintly Initialed. Climb the corner up to the triangular roof and continue up the left line to the top." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Chris Peisker, 1977

55
26 * Red Tape Mixed 20m, 2

"I suppose being the hardest route on the cliff gives it some status. From the flake (loose rock) 2m right of Barbed Tongue, climb the wall past two bolts." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Matthias Pausch, 1990

56
23 Cross Examination Mixed 20m, 3

Start 2m L of OK I Confess. Up past 3 FH reaching into OKIC for one hold then back L & long move up L to big ledge, finish as for OKIC.

FFA: Ramon Francis & Darren Marney, 2014

57
23 * OK, I Confess Trad 20m

"I'm sure Chris and Glenn have plenty to confess! A fiery number up an unlikely and poorly protected line. Follow the crack which becomes a gnarly closed seam 8m left of "The Jury Box" (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Chris Shepard & Glenn Tempest, 1982

58
11 The Jury Box Trad 21m

"Squirm up the old fashioned crack and chimney. Initialed"

FFA: Ian Ross, 1972

59
24 ** Affirmative Action Mixed 17m, 4

Start on blunt arête just R of Jury Box. 4 FH, after 4th FH stay R of arête on face for full value to a red BD C3 SLCD prior to topping out.

FFA: Ramon Francis, Darren Marnay & Dale Rankin, 2014

60
23 Life and Death Mixed 25m, 1

"Not long after the first ascent of this route, Mark wrote a thought provoking article called, 'Life and Death: a Climbers Guide.' It was especially poignant as it was written just prior to his death on Makalu in the Himalaya. This route however isn't quite in the same league as his other creations. Start on the arete immediately right of The Jury Box. Up and across to the bolt, then move back left and finish straight up the arete." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1982

61
26 Gavel Rash Sport 18m, 6

2m Left of BRD 6FH to DRB lower off.

FA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 2014

62
26 Beyond Reasonable Doubt Mixed 18m, 4

Start 5m R of AA. Straight up past 4 FH & red or yellow BD C3, large & small wires to DRB lower off.

Set by Ramon Francis

FFA: Ramon Francis, 2014

63
21 * Zuma Trad 25m

"A surprisingly technical tips crack. The thin, overhanging crack 5m left of Prosecutor." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Chris Peisker & Nic Taylor, 1976

64
24 Divorce Proceedings Mixed 20m, 2

"An entertaining problem that tackles the bulging wall between Zuma and Prosecutor. Scoot into the final hand-crack of Prosecutor to finish." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Glenn Tempest, Stephen Hamilton & Malcom Matheson, 1990

65
18 *** Prosecutor Trad 27m

Initialed. Undercut crack providing sustained jamming.

FFA: Keith Lockwood, 1972

66
18 Fatal Attraction Trad 30m
67
23 Persona Non Grata Trad 25m

Blunt arête past 2 FHs to half height then traverse way L into Prosecutor to finish.

FFA: David Blennerhassett & Darren Keenan, 1989

68
25 * Persona Grata Mixed 20m, 5

As for Persona Non Grata but blast straight on up blunt arête past 3 more FHs to DRB lower off.

Set by Ramon Francis

FFA: Ramon Francis, 2014

69
24 Life Mixed 25m, 1

Start is 2m left of Decree Nisi. Up short crack to bulge onto bolt. Easier face climbing above.

FFA: Kim Carrigan & Neil Parker, 1979

70
16 * Decree Nisi Trad 25m

Faintly initialed. Nice corner with tree near the top. Clean climbing with a mixture of bridging and face climbing.

FFA: Bob Connel & Rein Kamar, 1972

71
17 Unfit to Stand Trad 25m

Variant start to Decree Nisi which starts 5m right. Onto flat top the follow lines curving left into Decree Nisi.

FFA: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws, 1988

72
20 Caught Short Mixed 25m, 1

Starts as for Unfit to Stand. Up for 5m then follow right flake. Keep going right then up wall past bolt. Beware of dangerous block.

FFA: Chris Cope & Jenny Benson, 1980

73
17 Gallows Pole Trad 27m

Takes the left crack underneath the "toilet seat." Follow greasy crack to top.

FFA: Rein Kamar, Laurie Lovelock, Tony Amiconi & Peter Watling, 1972

74
18 ** Chancery Lane Trad 27m

Takes right crack up through the "toilet seat." Well protected.

FFA: Keith Lockwood & Michael Stone, 1972

75
23 Insufficient Evidence Mixed 20m, 3

Start up CL head 3m right at ledge to 1st SS glue in carrot. Straight up past 2 more SS glue in carrots to DRB lower off.

FA: Unknown

FFA: Ramon Francis & Matt Wight, 2014

76

Starts just right of RAaB. Very good technical face climbing past 5 bolts to lower off. Two reachy cruxes separated by moderate climbing. Will be harder for the vertically challenged

FFA: Adam Demmert & Ramon Francis, 2014

77

Re-bolted by Glenn June 2014. Now 5 RB's to DUB lower off. Follow featured wall up to high cave. Clipped bolt from safety of cave, take a deep breath, step left and delicately launch up black wall through crux.

FFA: Glenn Tempest, 1990

78
17 Final Appeal Trad 30m
79
23 Crime of Passion Trad 20m

Start a few metres left of Objection Sustained. Up through a small overhang, then the loose line to the cave. Push through last overhang and up to the top.

FFA: Glenn Tempest & Marty Beare, 1983

80
21 Haley Beth Trad 35m
81

Initialed. Excellent route following steep intimidating crack. Start 6m left of camping cave straight up the overhanging crack. Crux is near the final bulge overhang. Protection is fantastic the whole way, sucking up red and yellow BD Camelot's.

FFA: Ian Ross & Dave White, 1972

82
22 Realignment of Justice Mixed 20m, 3

Start as for Uno Flatu past overhang joining ToJ at finger crack

FFA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 2014

83
22 Uno Flatu Mixed 20m, 3

Between OS & MI the arête the whole way. 3FH. Medium SLCD's below last FH

FA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 2014

85
21 ** Malicious Intent Trad 23m
87

To protect rock art, it is requested that this route not be climbed.

88
23 Jump for Joy Trad 22m

To protect rock art, it is requested that this route not be climbed.

89
24 * In The Cooler Trad 23m

To protect rock art, it is requested that this route not be climbed.

90
21 * Legal Aid Trad 27m
91
20 The Hanging Slab Trad 10m
92
24 * Down By Law Sport 20m, 7

Recently rebolted. Stick-clip first bolt. The crux is pulling out of the top cave.

93
95
19 * Carnal Knowledge Trad 28m
96
18 In Session Trad 16m
97
25 * Pro Bono Publico Sport 20m, 8

Start as for In Session then head R past 5FH to cave. (New 3rd bolt added as original was desperate to clip) Exit steeply on R past 3FH to DRB lower off.

FFA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 2014

98
20 Partially Not Guilty Mixed 20m, 3

As for Guilty until 2/3 height then traverse L on good edges into base of cave. Finish as for Pro Bono Publico past 3 FHs to DRB lower off.

FFA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 2014

99
22 Guilty Trad 20m
100
23 * Law and Order Trad 20m
101
17 *** Subpoena Trad 21m
102
24 ** Street Legal Sport 20m, 4

Re-bolted by Glenn Aug 2014. Now 4 RB's & DUB lower off. Lower off is easily accessible from the top.

103
20 ** Hang On Trad 20m

Left leaning seam to DUB lower off

104
21 * The Hanging Trad 20m
105
26 ** Magna Carta Sport 16m, 4

Blunt arête just R of The Hanging 4 FHs to DRB lower off.

FFA: Ramon Francis & Darren Marney, 2014

109
10 False Pretences Trad 15m
110
16 The Enquiry Trad 16m
111
24 ** Legal Eagle Trad 15m
112
21 Doing Time Trad 15m
113
16 Acquitted Trad 12m
114
17 Press Gallery Trad 12m
115
10 On Probation Trad 12m
116
117
17 Petty Sessions Trad 18m
119
15 Stool Pigeon Trad 15m
121
11 The Dock Trad 15m
122
17 The Dock Roof Trad 20m
123
24 ** Itchy Fingers Trad 15m
124
127
128

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