Black Ian's Rocks Mostly Trad climbing

Fantastic little climb, with plenty of small to medium gear. Follow the most obvious crack line on wall. Belay bolts service this climb, which are around 5 metres back from the top of First Offence. Climb seeps water when wet.

Up small crack system, with a bolt protecting the crux. Topping out is currently mossy, but will clean up over time. Fixed hangers to belay from about five metres back from top.

"An exciting climb which is guaranteed to leave your forearms screaming. It takes the right leading crack about 15m right of the descent gully. Up the slab and into the crack. Jam your way to stance under roof, then finish up pumpy wall past fixed pegs." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"Varied and interesting climbing on rock that is reminiscent of Arapiles. Start 3m right of Snapper Crack. Up the slab, then up an awkward seam. Continue diagonally across and up wall till a couple of hard moves bring the overlap to hand. Finish up tiring wall." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"Much better than it looks. Start up the sickle-shaped crack just left of the yucky chimney descent. Finish straight up." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"Interesting and thought provoking climbing up slabby rock. Start 3m right of horrible chimney at rightward curving crack. Move up and left to faint crack, follow this until it fades, then step right and up." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

2m left of 'Found in a Compromising Position'. Fairly easy ground up crack to high first bolt, which can be protected with medium wires if you are feeling mortal. Up delicate face, top out left after last bolt.

"An interesting variant start to Bagatelle. Takes the low angled crack in the grey slab 5m left of Bagatelle before moving right and finishing as for that route." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"Start at the corner system near the right end of the grey, lichen covered slab. Initialled. Follow the left crack and finish up the left hand corner." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"A slightly tricker finish to Bagatelle. Up Bagatelle then follow the right hand corner/ crack to the top. Beware of loose rock on the stance below final off-width." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"This superb climb tackles the attractive orange rock passing three bolts, immediately right of Bagatelle. Unfortunately the second bolt is poorly positioned and might be preferable to pre-clip it with a sling before starting." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"The wall 4m left of Mr Meaner has a couple of lines with common start. Move left into curving flake and turn the bulge at its left end." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"This companion route to The Willows Milkbar offers interesting climbing up the thin right leaning seam before finishing with an amusing mantle over a small overhang."

"This alluring arete is a committing lead and is a popular top rope problem. Don't forget your RP's. Up the wall and arête 5m left of Short Term." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

Start 2m L of Pudgy. Up 3m out to arête. Keep on R wall avoiding L wall & chock-stone for full value, (& grade) move R at break up, back L & up. (Straight up from 2nd FH is "In Line" not done yet) 5 FH.

"What on earth has this name Pudgy got to do with legal stuff is anyone's guess. Desperately thin wall climbing which is also a wee bit committing up high. Up the wall with the ring bolt, 5m left of Caveat Emptor." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"This tricky face climb was originally led by Richard Smith without the bolt. It was placed shortly after by Louise Shepard who was unaware of Smithy's ascent. The arete just left of Barbed Tongue." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"This route offers excellent and sustained bridging. Start at the small corner with the twin cracks, just left of Red Tape. Faintly Initialed. Climb the corner up to the triangular roof and continue up the left line to the top." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"I suppose being the hardest route on the cliff gives it some status. From the flake (loose rock) 2m right of Barbed Tongue, climb the wall past two bolts." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"I'm sure Chris and Glenn have plenty to confess! A fiery number up an unlikely and poorly protected line. Follow the crack which becomes a gnarly closed seam 8m left of "The Jury Box" (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"Not long after the first ascent of this route, Mark wrote a thought provoking article called, 'Life and Death: a Climbers Guide.' It was especially poignant as it was written just prior to his death on Makalu in the Himalaya. This route however isn't quite in the same league as his other creations. Start on the arete immediately right of The Jury Box. Up and across to the bolt, then move back left and finish straight up the arete." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"A surprisingly technical tips crack. The thin, overhanging crack 5m left of Prosecutor." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs). fledglings nesting in #5 crack 4 m off ground late oct 2015. Avoid until gone

"An entertaining problem that tackles the bulging wall between Zuma and Prosecutor. Scoot into the final hand-crack of Prosecutor to finish." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

Initialed. Undercut crack providing sustained jamming. There was a cam (BD C4 #0.3) stuck in the crux May 2016. Don't bother trying to retrieve it - it has a broken trigger wire, so pulling the release does nothing.

Contrived divergence from Decree Nisi. At the tree, climb the off-width crack directly throught the small roof, religiously avoiding the obvious line to the left.

Starts just right of RAaB. Very good technical face climbing past 5 bolts to lower off. Two reachy cruxes separated by moderate climbing. Will be harder for the vertically challenged

Re-bolted by Glenn June 2014. Now 5 RB's to DUB lower off. Follow featured wall up to high cave. Clipped bolt from safety of cave, take a deep breath, step left and delicately launch up black wall through crux.

Start a few metres left of Objection Sustained. Up through a small overhang, then the loose line to the cave. Push through last overhang and up to the top.

Initialed. Excellent route following steep intimidating crack. Start 6m left of camping cave straight up the overhanging crack. Crux is near the final bulge overhang. Protection is fantastic the whole way, sucking up red and yellow BD Camelot's.

Start as for Malicious Intent and follow the corner until the overhang. Traverse left to gain the overhanging arête and follow the thin crack to the top. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

Start on the left side of the cave. Climb the broken corner to a ledge, then pull over an overhang to a guano- stained ledge (loose rock). Up the steep crack to a horizontal break on the left wall, and then crank for the top. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

From the right side of the cave, hurl yourself at the undercut line which is initialled. Continued up the line, hand traversing left beneath a roof near the top the last part is a tad reachy. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

Recently rebolted. Stick-clip first bolt. The crux is pulling out of the top cave. Start a few metres right of Legal Aid and chin out to the bolt. Around and up easily to a ledge and another bolt. Up into the scoop and then onto the slab passing another two bolts. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

Requires tube chooks or some other form of large protection. Tackles the sickening cleft not far right of the camping cave. Up chimney, then up the overhanging off-width via laybacking and the occasional face hold. (The chockstones described in the Mentz/Tempest guide are no longer present.)

Start 5 metres right of Power Without Glory at the thin line above the undercut start. Chin the roof on good jugs, then step right and up into thin line to the cave. Move up the right and onto the arête (dubious protection). Finish up short wall. It's possible to traverse a further 2 metres right before heading up, but this is probably trickier. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

Start as for In Session then head R past 5FH to cave. (New 3rd bolt added as original was desperate to clip) Exit steeply on R past 3FH to DRB lower off.

Start below a loose cracked arête left of Subpoena. Heave up and follow the thin line, steeping right at the top. Finish boldly up the blunt arête. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

50m or so right of the cave is a striking corner. Initialled. There is frequently an active beehive over the lip near the top. They were quite active 1st April 2016.

Start a few metres right of Street Legal. Straight up past three bolts, then up to reach left to clip the fourth bolt of Street Legal. Continue to the Street Legal anchors.

Some new climbing on this wall, enabled in part by the squeeze job of Hoon Laws. Start up Hang On, then easily across the hanging slab clipping 2 bolts. Arrange some small wires then straight up to obvious cave/hole. Over this (no gear!) then step R to finish.

Bold climbing up the wall 8 metres right of Subpoena. Up to ledge, (where protection is available) and continue to the cave. Step left and finish up the wall passing some loose rock along the way. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

As for Hang On to the stance below the curving crack. Step right and up past a peg runner to good holds on the bulge above. Into the cave right, then up. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

Up the red strip on good in cut holds to a small stance. Move right and up to the overlap, then back left and pull through. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

Start a couple of metres down right of Call the Next Witness Please at the detached pinnacle. Up the crack until it ends, then pull through an overlap. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

The wall right of False Pretences is broken by a distinctive curving crack just left of a crappy gully. Up this crack then straight to the top. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009) gear tricky. Two Belay bolts on top.

Tackles the attractive wall about ten metres right of The Enquiry. Up the left line with some intricate climbing past a bolt. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

Climb the face 1 metre right of Legal Eagle to the base of the greenery, then right to the juggy arête. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

Start at the base of the arête 3 metres right of Stool Pigeon. Up the arête without runners (grade 17) to a stance below the immediate overhang. PLace a couple of big cams then swing out to the lips on pockets and big holds. A final heave and it's all over. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

This climb tackles the smooth steep wall starting 3 metres right of The Dock. Up the flake then onwards past two bolts to the top. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

Up Itchy Fingers to the first bolt and then move right almost to the arête. Finish quickly on improving holds. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)