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Description

North facing single pitch climbing known for its good cracks around 18. Despite the frenzy of development, the new sport routes are average. Recent rebolting of some older face routes should make them more appealing.

Access issues

Black Ians is a part of Red Rock Bushland Reserve. Parks Victoria has no information regarding this area, other than it's location. As such, treat as any other reserve in Victoria.

Approach

Turn onto Clarkes Lane from the Jallumba-Mockinya Rd. Turn right at the end, follow the road left then turn right into the camping area on private land just before the next corner. Wander up to the cliff behind the shelter shed. You'll arrive somewhere between the cave and Subpeona.

Where to stay

The landowner allows camping just below the crag for a small fee. Please use the honesty box.

Ethic

To protect Aboriginal art work at Black Ian's Rocks, the VCC requests that you do not boulder in the camping cave and avoid these three routes 'No Rest For The Wicked', 'Jump For Joy' and 'In The Cooler'. It would also be appreciated if climbers used the left hand cracks to start 'Traversity Of Justice' and 'Malicious Intent'.

For more information about the art, contact Alan Burns at the Goolum Aboriginal Co-op, 03 5382 5033.

Routes

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Grade Route

Bouldery start leads into sketchy dirty slab climbing. May see a few more punters with a good scrubbing and some "protection enhancers"

FFA: Mikie Bob & amelie, 2016

Up rounded arête keeping the bolts to your left. Belay bolts service this climb, which are around 5 metres back from the top of First Offence.

Fantastic little climb, with plenty of small to medium gear. Follow the most obvious crack line on wall. Belay bolts service this climb, which are around 5 metres back from the top of First Offence. Climb seeps water when wet.

Up small crack system, with a bolt protecting the crux. Topping out is currently mossy, but will clean up over time. Fixed hangers to belay from about five metres back from top.

Belay bolts service this climb, which are around 5 metres back from the top of First Offence.

Belay bolts service this climb, which are around 5 metres back from the top of First Offence.

Start as for Snapper Crack. Step L up past 2FH and wires

Set by Ramon Francis, 2014

FA: Ramon Francis & Andy Schmutter, 2014

"An exciting climb which is guaranteed to leave your forearms screaming. It takes the right leading crack about 15m right of the descent gully. Up the slab and into the crack. Jam your way to stance under roof, then finish up pumpy wall past fixed pegs." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Chris Peisker & Coral Bowman, 1978

"Varied and interesting climbing on rock that is reminiscent of Arapiles. Start 3m right of Snapper Crack. Up the slab, then up an awkward seam. Continue diagonally across and up wall till a couple of hard moves bring the overlap to hand. Finish up tiring wall." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Glenn Tempest & Stephen Hamilton, 1988

3m R of What's the Verdict. Climb the line direct past 2FH & trad gear

Set by Ramon Francis, 2014

FFA: Ramon Francis & Andrew Schmutter, 2014

Crack with a small cave at its base.

Just R of Please be Seated up past 2 FH

FFA: Darren Marney & Ramon Francis, 2014

Just L of Rumpole up past 2 FH to lower off under tumble of boulders which are surprisingly stable

FFA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 2014

Start at base of Ipso Facto then head L & up past 2 FH to DRB lower off.

FFA: Ramon Francis & Darren Marney, 2014

Start on undercut arete 3m L of Slanderous Discourse. 4 FH to DUB abseil

FFA: Ramon Francis & Darren Marney, 2014

Starts just left of Slanderous Discourse. Up past RB & wires to double UB abseil

FFA: Unknown

"Much better than it looks. Start up the sickle-shaped crack just left of the yucky chimney descent. Finish straight up." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Parrish Robbins, Glenn Tempest & Stephen Hamilton, 1990

"Interesting and thought provoking climbing up slabby rock. Start 3m right of horrible chimney at rightward curving crack. Move up and left to faint crack, follow this until it fades, then step right and up." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Keith Egerton, 1976

"The crack and unlikely bulge immediately right of GBH. The name says it all." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

4m left of Lichen Life. 4FH

Set by Ramon Francis, 2014

FFA: Ramon Francis & Andrew Schmutter, 2014

2m left of Found in Coprimising Postion. Fairly easy ground up crack to high first bolt, which can be protected with medium wires if you are feeling mortal. Up delicate face, top out left after last bolt.

FFA: Ramon Francis & Darren Marney, 2014

Start 5 left of Habeus Corpus. Straight up past 5FHs.

FFA: Ramon Francis, 2014

"An interesting variant start to Bagatelle. Takes the low angled crack in the grey slab 5m left of Bagatelle before moving right and finishing as for that route." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Bob Connell, Keith Lockwood, Rein Kamar & Ben Sandilands, 1972

"Start at the corner system near the right end of the grey, lichen covered slab. Initialled. Follow the left crack and finish up the left hand corner." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Peter Watling & Sebastian Rainer, 1972

"A slightly tricker finish to Bagatelle. Up Bagatelle then follow the right hand corner/ crack to the top. Beware of loose rock on the stance below final off-width." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: John Chapman, 1978

"This superb climb tackles the attractive orange rock passing three bolts, immediately right of Bagatelle. Unfortunately the second bolt is poorly positioned and might be preferable to pre-clip it with a sling before starting." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Lincoln Sheppard, Chris Peisker & Louise Sheppard, 1988

2m L of The Willows Milkbar. 3 RB's & small to medium wires.

FFA: Ramon Francis & Ben Eichler, 2001

"The wall 4m left of Mr Meaner has a couple of lines with common start. Move left into curving flake and turn the bulge at its left end." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

"This companion route to The Willows Milkbar offers interesting climbing up the thin right leaning seam before finishing with an amusing mantle over a small overhang."

FFA: Simon Mentz & Stephen Hamilton, 1988

"This alluring arete is a committing lead and is a popular top rope problem. Don't forget your RP's. Up the wall and arête 5m left of Short Term." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Glenn Tempest & Paul Daniels, 1981

"The mean looking, black crackless corner, starting from the terrace." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Neil Parker, Rod Young & Kim Carrigan, 1979

Start 2m L of Pudgy. Up 3m out to arête. Keep on R wall avoiding L wall & chock-stone for full value, (& grade) move R at break up, back L & up. (Straight up from 2nd FH is "In Line" not done yet) 5 FH.

FA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 2014

"What on earth has this name Pudgy got to do with legal stuff is anyone's guess. Desperately thin wall climbing which is also a wee bit committing up high. Up the wall with the ring bolt, 5m left of Caveat Emptor." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Lincoln Shepard & Chris Peisker, 1988

"This tricky face climb was originally led by Richard Smith without the bolt. It was placed shortly after by Louise Shepard who was unaware of Smithy's ascent. The arete just left of Barbed Tongue." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Richard Smith & Glenn Tempest, 1988

Initialed faintly. Start at small corner with the twin cracks left of Red Tape. Climb corner to triangular roof and continue up right line to top.

FFA: Chris Dewhirst, Bob Connell & Rein Kamar, 1972

"This route offers excellent and sustained bridging. Start at the small corner with the twin cracks, just left of Red Tape. Faintly Initialed. Climb the corner up to the triangular roof and continue up the left line to the top." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Chris Peisker, 1977

"I suppose being the hardest route on the cliff gives it some status. From the flake (loose rock) 2m right of Barbed Tongue, climb the wall past two bolts." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Matthias Pausch, 1990

"I'm sure Chris and Glenn have plenty to confess! A fiery number up an unlikely and poorly protected line. Follow the crack which becomes a gnarly closed seam 8m left of "The Jury Box" (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Chris Shepard & Glenn Tempest, 1982

"Squirm up the old fashioned crack and chimney. Initialed"

FFA: Ian Ross, 1972

Start on blunt arête just R of Jury Box. 4 FH, after 4th FH stay R of arête on face for full value to a red BD C3 SLCD prior to topping out.

FFA: Ramon Francis, Darren Marnay & Dale Rankin, 2014

"Not long after the first ascent of this route, Mark wrote a thought provoking article called, 'Life and Death: a Climbers Guide.' It was especially poignant as it was written just prior to his death on Makalu in the Himalaya. This route however isn't quite in the same league as his other creations. Start on the arete immediately right of The Jury Box. Up and across to the bolt, then move back left and finish straight up the arete." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1982

2m Left of BRD 6FH to DRB lower off.

FA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 2014

Start 5m R of AA. Straight up past 4 FH & red or yellow BD C3, large & small wires to DRB lower off.

Set by Ramon Francis

FFA: Ramon Francis, 2014

"A surprisingly technical tips crack. The thin, overhanging crack 5m left of Prosecutor." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs). fledglings nesting in #5 crack 4 m off ground late oct 2015. Avoid until gone

FFA: Chris Peisker & Nic Taylor, 1976

"An entertaining problem that tackles the bulging wall between Zuma and Prosecutor. Scoot into the final hand-crack of Prosecutor to finish." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

FFA: Glenn Tempest, Stephen Hamilton & Malcom Matheson, 1990

Initialed. Undercut crack providing sustained jamming. There was a cam (BD C4 #0.3) stuck in the crux May 2016. Don't bother trying to retrieve it - it has a broken trigger wire, so pulling the release does nothing.

FFA: Keith Lockwood, 1972

Blunt arête past 2 FHs to half height then traverse way L into Prosecutor to finish.

FFA: David Blennerhassett & Darren Keenan, 1989

As for Persona Non Grata but blast straight on up blunt arête past 3 more FHs to DRB lower off.

Set by Ramon Francis

FFA: Ramon Francis, 2014

Start is 2m left of Decree Nisi. Up short crack to bulge onto bolt. Easier face climbing above.

FFA: Kim Carrigan & Neil Parker, 1979

Faintly initialed. Nice corner with tree near the top. Clean climbing with a mixture of bridging and face climbing.

FFA: Bob Connel & Rein Kamar, 1972

Variant start to Decree Nisi which starts 5m right. Onto flat top the follow lines curving left into Decree Nisi.

FFA: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws, 1988

Starts as for Unfit to Stand. Up for 5m then follow right flake. Keep going right then up wall past bolt. Beware of dangerous block.

FFA: Chris Cope & Jenny Benson, 1980

Start up the seam in the arête left of GP. Protects with RPs. Step left and up over bulge to Good gear and up to terrace. Finish as for GP.

Takes the left crack underneath the "toilet seat." Follow greasy crack to top.

FFA: Rein Kamar, Laurie Lovelock, Tony Amiconi & Peter Watling, 1972

Takes right crack up through the "toilet seat." Well protected.

FFA: Keith Lockwood & Michael Stone, 1972

Start up CL head 3m right at ledge to 1st SS glue in carrot. Straight up past 2 more SS glue in carrots to DRB lower off.

FA: Unknown

FFA: Ramon Francis & Matt Wight, 2014

Starts just right of RAaB. Very good technical face climbing past 5 bolts to lower off. Two reachy cruxes separated by moderate climbing. Will be harder for the vertically challenged

Re-bolted by Glenn June 2014. Now 5 RB's to DUB lower off. Follow featured wall up to high cave. Clipped bolt from safety of cave, take a deep breath, step left and delicately launch up black wall through crux.

FFA: Glenn Tempest, 1990

Start a few metres left of Objection Sustained. Up through a small overhang, then the loose line to the cave. Push through last overhang and up to the top.

FFA: Glenn Tempest & Marty Beare, 1983

Initialed. Excellent route following steep intimidating crack. Start 6m left of camping cave straight up the overhanging crack. Crux is near the final bulge overhang. Protection is fantastic the whole way, sucking up red and yellow BD Camelot's.

FFA: Ian Ross & Dave White, 1972

Start as for Uno Flatu past overhang joining ToJ at finger crack

FFA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 2014

Between OS & MI the arête the whole way. 3FH. Medium SLCD's below last FH

FA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 2014

Start as for Malicious Intent and follow the corner until the overhang. Traverse left to gain the overhanging arête and follow the thin crack to the top. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

FA: Glenn Tempest & Seammus Brennan, 1981

Start on the left side of the cave. Climb the broken corner to a ledge, then pull over an overhang to a guano- stained ledge (loose rock). Up the steep crack to a horizontal break on the left wall, and then crank for the top. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

FA: Ian Ross & Rein Kamar, 1972

FFA: Kevin Lindorff, 1975

To protect rock art, it is requested that this route not be climbed.

To protect rock art, it is requested that this route not be climbed.

To protect rock art, it is requested that this route not be climbed.

From the right side of the cave, hurl yourself at the undercut line which is initialled. Continued up the line, hand traversing left beneath a roof near the top the last part is a tad reachy. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

FA: Keith Lockwood, 1972

As for Legal Aid but traverse right past a bolt.

FFA: Stephen Hamilton & Glenn Tempest, 1990

Recently rebolted. Stick-clip first bolt. The crux is pulling out of the top cave. Start a few metres right of Legal Aid and chin out to the bolt. Around and up easily to a ledge and another bolt. Up into the scoop and then onto the slab passing another two bolts. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1989

Requires tube chooks or some other form of large protection. Tackles the sickening cleft not far right of the camping cave. Up chimney, then up the overhanging off-width via laybacking and the occasional face hold. (The chockstones described in the Mentz/Tempest guide are no longer present.)

FFA: Nic Taylor & Andrew Thomson, 1976

Start 5 metres right of Power Without Glory at the thin line above the undercut start. Chin the roof on good jugs, then step right and up into thin line to the cave. Move up the right and onto the arête (dubious protection). Finish up short wall. It's possible to traverse a further 2 metres right before heading up, but this is probably trickier. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

FFA: Peter Watson, Kevin Lindorff, Glenn Tempest & Jim Grellis, 1977

Start as for In Session then head R past 5FH to cave. (New 3rd bolt added as original was desperate to clip) Exit steeply on R past 3FH to DRB lower off.

FFA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 2014

As for Guilty until 2/3 height then traverse L on good edges into base of cave. Finish as for Pro Bono Publico past 3 FHs to DRB lower off.

FFA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 2014

Start below a loose cracked arête left of Subpoena. Heave up and follow the thin line, steeping right at the top. Finish boldly up the blunt arête. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

FFA: Chris Shepard & Glenn Tempest, 1982

Thin seams on left wall of Subpeona with just enough gear.

FFA: Chris Shepard & Glenn Tempest, 1982

50m or so right of the cave is a striking corner. Initialled. There is frequently an active beehive over the lip near the top. They were quite active 1st April 2016.

FFA: Ian Ross & Rein Kamar, 1972

Wall right of Subpeona. Re-bolted by Glenn Aug 2014. Now 4 RB's & DUB lower off. Lower off is easily accessible from the top.

FFA: Glenn Tempest, Eric Jones & Marty Beare, 1983

Start a few metres right of Street Legal. Straight up past three bolts, then up to reach left to clip the fourth bolt of Street Legal. Continue to the Street Legal anchors.

FA: kevin lindorff

Bold climbing up the wall 8 metres right of Subpoena. Up to ledge, (where protection is available) and continue to the cave. Step left and finish up the wall passing some loose rock along the way. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

FFA: Kevin Lindorff, Glenn Tempest, Peter Watson & Jim Grellis, 1977

As for Hang On to the stance below the curving crack. Step right and up past a peg runner to good holds on the bulge above. Into the cave right, then up. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

FFA: Glenn Tempest, Jim Bott & Stephen Hamilton, 1988

Blunt arête just R of The Hanging 4 FHs to DRB lower off.

FFA: Ramon Francis & Darren Marney, 2014

Up the red strip on good in cut holds to a small stance. Move right and up to the overlap, then back left and pull through. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

FFA: Stephen Hamilton, 1988

Start a couple of metres down right of Call the Next Witness Please at the detached pinnacle. Up the crack until it ends, then pull through an overlap. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

FFA: Andrew Corlass, Peter Campbell & James Falla, 1986

The small (initialled) corner 3 metres right of Mitigating Circumstances.

FFA: Mike Stone & Keith Lockwood, 1972

The wall right of False Pretences is broken by a distinctive curving crack just left of a crappy gully. Up this crack then straight to the top. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009) gear tricky. Two Belay bolts on top.

FFA: Jack Lewis & Andrew King, 1988

Tackles the attractive wall about ten metres right of The Enquiry. Up the left line with some intricate climbing past a bolt. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

FFA: Glenn Tempest & Stephen Hamilton, 1988

Climb the face 1 metre right of Legal Eagle to the base of the greenery, then right to the juggy arête. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

FFA: Stephen Hamilton & Glenn Tempest, 1988

Initialled. Ugly corner.

Start at the base of the arête 3 metres right of Stool Pigeon. Up the arête without runners (grade 17) to a stance below the immediate overhang. PLace a couple of big cams then swing out to the lips on pockets and big holds. A final heave and it's all over. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

FFA: Geoff Butcher & Stephen Hamilton, 1988

Unappealing corner. Starts to the right of The Long Arm of the Law.

This climb tackles the smooth steep wall starting 3 metres right of The Dock. Up the flake then onwards past two bolts to the top. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

FFA: Glenn Tempest & Stephen Hamilton, 1988

Up Itchy Fingers to the first bolt and then move right almost to the arête. Finish quickly on improving holds. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

FFA: James Falla & Tim Rogers, 1987

Activity

Check out what is happening in Black Ian's Rocks.