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"This route offers excellent and sustained bridging. Start at the small corner with the twin cracks, just left of Red Tape. Faintly Initialed. Climb the corner up to the triangular roof and continue up the left line to the top." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

Ethic: inherited from Black Ian's Rocks

To protect Aboriginal art work at Black Ian's Rocks, the VCC requests that you do not boulder in the cave (formally known as 'camping cave') and avoid these three routes 'No Rest For The Wicked', 'Jump For Joy' and 'In The Cooler'. It would also be appreciated if climbers used the left hand cracks to start 'Traversity Of Justice' and 'Malicious Intent'.

For more information about the art contact :

Barengi Gadjin Land Council Cultural Heritage - RAP Manager - Darren Griffin 03 5381 0977

Parks Victoria - Area Chief Ranger – 8427 3505


Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: Chris Peisker, 1977


Located in Black Ian's Rocks approx:
Lat/Long: -37.002915,142.103598

Route Grade Citations

19 Community registered grade
18 Grampians Selected Climbs
19 A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians
19 The Black Guide
19 Pocket RockGUIDE: Black Ians Rocks and Central Grampians Update

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 68%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

great beautiful fun nice awesome runout pockets cruisy balancy

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