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Start on the left side of the cave. Climb the broken corner to a ledge, then pull over an overhang to a guano- stained ledge (loose rock). Up the steep crack to a horizontal break on the left wall, and then crank for the top. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

Ethic: inherited from Black Ian's Rocks

To protect Aboriginal art work at Black Ian's Rocks, the VCC requests that you do not boulder in the cave (formally known as 'camping cave') and avoid these three routes 'No Rest For The Wicked', 'Jump For Joy' and 'In The Cooler'. It would also be appreciated if climbers used the left hand cracks to start 'Traversity Of Justice' and 'Malicious Intent'.

For more information about the art contact :

Barengi Gadjin Land Council Cultural Heritage - RAP Manager - Darren Griffin 03 5381 0977

Parks Victoria - Area Chief Ranger – 8427 3505


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Ian Ross & Rein Kamar, May 1972

  • First Free Ascent: Kevin Lindorff, 1975


Located in Black Ian's Rocks approx:
Lat/Long: -37.002915,142.103598

Route Grade Citations

21 Community registered grade
21 Pocket RockGUIDE: Black Ians Rocks and Central Grampians Update
21 Grampians Selected Climbs
21 A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians
21 The Black Guide
21 RockGUIDE: Victoria

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 62%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux desperate hard good super great fun exciting nice fall short feet easy rest fingers

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Check out what is happening on Malicious Intent (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.