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Start 5 metres right of Power Without Glory at the thin line above the undercut start. Chin the roof on good jugs, then step right and up into thin line to the cave. Move up the right and onto the arête (dubious protection). Finish up short wall. It's possible to traverse a further 2 metres right before heading up, but this is probably trickier. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

Ethic: inherited from Black Ian's Rocks

To protect Aboriginal art work at Black Ian's Rocks, the VCC requests that you do not boulder in the cave (formally known as 'camping cave') and avoid these three routes 'No Rest For The Wicked', 'Jump For Joy' and 'In The Cooler'. It would also be appreciated if climbers used the left hand cracks to start 'Traversity Of Justice' and 'Malicious Intent'.

For more information about the art contact :

Barengi Gadjin Land Council Cultural Heritage - RAP Manager - Darren Griffin 03 5381 0977

Parks Victoria - Area Chief Ranger – 8427 3505


Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: Peter Watson, Kevin Lindorff, Glenn Tempest & Jim Grellis, Apr 1977


Located in Black Ian's Rocks approx:
Lat/Long: -37.002915,142.103598

Route Grade Citations

19 Community registered grade
18 Pocket RockGUIDE: Black Ians Rocks and Central Grampians Update
19 A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians
19 The Black Guide
19 Grampians Selected Climbs

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 58%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

hard great lovely fun nice scary crap bad epic

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