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Showing all 82 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
No Laughing Matter Buttress
13 Greenwitch
Trad 45m
10 The Dark Is Rising
Trad 45m
7 Afterglow
Trad 47m
16 Don't Look Now
Trad 45m
8 No Laughing Matter
Trad 45m
6 Kookaburra Harpies
Trad 35m
Kookaburra Rock
9 Guess Who's Coming To Breakfast
Trad 16m
11 Beak In The Cheek
Trad 19m
13 Kiwibugga
Trad 21m
10 You Toucha My Jaffle, I Breaka Your Beak
Trad 21m
13 Wings
Trad 25m
15 Kookaburras Whipped My Jaffle
Trad 19m
17 Fistfull Of Feathers
Trad 19m
12 Big Girl's Blouse
Trad 46m
4 The Fat Slags
Trad 40m
12 Pathetic Sharks
Trad 42m
8 Sid The Sexist
Trad 30m
8 Women Wrestling In Baked Beans
Trad 30m
12 Buster Gonad
Trad 28m
15 Viz A Viz
Trad 40m
16 Spoilt Bastard
Trad 9m
9 Advanced Tea Substitute
Trad 18m
12 Peril-Sensitive Sunglasses
Trad 25m
8 Dogmatrix
Trad 28m
8 Knavishtrix
Trad 24m
10 (Unnamed 1)
Trad 25m
Viz Area
18 Caffine Addiction

A bit close to the hillside but OK.

The orange diagonal crack about 10 metres right of the roof-capped slab (2 metres right of Rake's Progress).

FA: Neil Barr & Peter Watlin, 2000

Trad 20m
8 Rake's Progress

Slabby rib 3 metres right of "Out To Pasture"

FA: Keith Egerton (solo), 1978

Trad 25m
4 Out To Pasture

Don't bother.

Start about 5 metres right of Tourist Party.

Up slabby rib to overhang. Go left and up the corner for a few metres then back right to finish up the rib.

FA: Peter Watling & Keith Lockwood, 1981

Trad 35m
8 Tourist Party

Climb up to the right side of the overhang. Step left through the overhang to the upper slab and go straight up.

Start: Start a couple of metres right of "Getafix" just left of the right edge of the main slab.

FA: Keith Egerton, 1978

Trad 25m
6 Getafix

This has a pretty hefty overhang for the grade.

Start 3 metres right of "Juggler> below a crack in the roof.

Climb straight up to the crack in the roof, over and up.

FA: Peter Treby & Peter Watling, 1978

Trad 30m
9 Juggler

A good climb. Start about 3 metres right of the arete, below a large step in the roof. Go straight up the slab into the bottomless corner. Move across the right wall onto the upper slab and finish straight up.

Trad 30m
14 Deshperation

Another wanderer.

Start up the wide crack just right of Dangerous Driving or up the left arete of the slab just right again.

After the start, continue up the arete (as for Dangerous Driving to the overhang. Traverse left across the steep wall to a bulging crack and follow this.

FA: Peter Treby & Peter Watling, 1978

Trad 40m
18 Dangerous Driving

Weaves about wildly.

Start 2 metres left of the wide crack at the bottom right side of the steep wall.

Thin crack to slab. Follow arete on slab to overhang. Move right through overhang and up easily.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Alan Hope, 1982

Trad 30m
17 Skid Marks

Another short route.

The righthand of the two lines on the steep wall bounding the right side of the Tickled Pink slab.

FA: Keith Egerton, Heather Phillips & Kieran Loughran, 1982

Trad 12m
21 Guessing Names

Excellent short technical route.

The left of two lines up the nice wall on the right side of the Tickled Pink slab.

FA: Ian Anger & Kieran Loughran, 1985

Trad 10m
8 Tickled Pink

Delightful but contrived.

Centre of the slab 3 metres right of "Slippery Dip" and left of steep wall.

FA: Peter Treby & Peter Watling, 1978

Trad 25m
6 Slippery Dip

Contrived. Centre of narrow slab 5 metres around right of "Fringe Benefits"

FA: Peter Watling & Gabrielle Pellissier, 1978

Trad 25m
21 Fringe Benefits

Some good thin-crack climbing that isn't as escapable as it looks. Start as for Bottled Blue.

Climb 2 metres up the corner then take the crack on the right wall to the left-leading diagonal crack that parallels the edge of the slab above. Follow the diagonal until it rejoins the corner.

FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran. Easter, 1982

Trad 25m
10 Bottled Blue

Easy wide corner 5 metres right of sebastian and just left of slabby area.

FA: Peter Cunningham & Rhonda Qoon, 1978

Trad 20m
9 Sebastian

Crack 1 metres right of "Asterix"

FA: Gabrielle Pellissier & Peter Watling, 1978

Trad 20m
12 Asterix

Crack 6 metres right of "Sally Banner"

FA: Peter Watling, Gabrielle Pellissier & Keith Egerton, 1978

Trad 20m
17 Sally Banner

Open corner with oddly scooped overhangs at left end of cliff.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Egerton, Heather Phillips & Alan Hope. Easter, 1982

Trad 20m
Paul Kelly Wall
10 Jai Bangla
Trad 24m
7 Dumb Things
Trad 24m
6 Same Old Walk
Trad 22m
8 Under The Sun
Trad 30m
4 The Young Ones
Trad 20m
3 Fox And Terriers
Trad 20m
Micro Wall
4 Pico Route
Trad 8m
8 Kerbstone
Trad 8m
6 Nano Route
Trad 8m
10 Gobbledock
Trad 9m
10 The Mammy Nun
Trad 12m
Upper Tier
12 Mackdoogal

Cracks up slabby buttress just right of "STOVL".

FA: Heather Phillips & Alan Hope. Easter., 1982

Trad 30m
21 STOVL

A good short roofing problem.

Start: 30 metres right of "Lonesome Cowboys" is a buttress with a diagonal overhang.

30 metres right of Lonesome Cowboys is a buttress with a diagonal overhang. Straight up buttress to centre of diagonal overhang and cross it via flake to easy slab.

FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran. Easter., 1982

Trad 25m
17 Lonesome Cowboys

Crack 5 metres around right from "Dresden" then right-leading ramp.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Egerton & Peter Watling. Easter., 1982

Trad 25m
18 R Dresden

Fragile.

Wall starting 5 metres right of Dodge City, veering right and then left.

FA: Keith Egerton & Heather Phillips. Easter., 1982

Trad 20m
17 Dodge City

Preliminary cleaning came close to decapitating some onlookers. The crack system through the overhangs 4 metres left of Miss Kitty.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, David Gairns & Gordon Talbett, 1979

Trad 30m
15 Miss Kitty

Wide corner and roof 5 metres right of "Saloon".

FA: Nicholas Reeves, Peter Megens, Hugh Foxcroft & Kieran Loughran, 1979

Trad 30m
10 Saloon

Downmarket. Buttress 8 metres right of Sayyadinna.

FA: Peter Megens, Nicholas Reeves & Hugh Foxcroft, 1979

Trad 30m
17 Sayyadinna

Follow cracks to the overhang and pull around into the corner. When the corner ends, move right below an overhang to the top.

Start: Start 8 metres right of "Pixi", 23 metres right of "Obelix" below a right-facing flake.

FA: Peter Watling & Ceri Law, 1979

Trad 30m
9 Pixi

Thin rib until gully can no longer be ignored. Step right and go up thin crack in right wall.

Start: Start at thin rib 15 metres right of "Obelix"

FA: Peter Watling & Ceri Law, 1979

Trad 30m
10 Obelix

A detached route.

Start on the left side of the pinnacle, 4 metres right of Tumbleweeds.

Move up to a ledge and traverse left above large overhang to front of pinnacle. Go straight up to the top of the pinnacle. Step across the gap to the main wall and finish straight up.

FA: Keith Egerton & Peter Watling, 1978

Trad 30m
17 Tumbleweeds

Quite good.

Start: In the chimney left of the pinnacle a short corner leads to a roof.

Corner to roof and traverse left below roof to crack. Up crack and finish up the right wall.

FA: Nicholas Reeves & Kieran Loughran, 1979

Trad 28m
14 Ruckle

Will never rise above the pack.

Start just right of Nuptial Bliss.

Take a break in the initial bulge then follow the diagonal crack up right past the top overhang. Step back left into a crack that becomes a corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Peter Watling, 1981

Trad 39m
15 Nuptial Bliss

Disappointing

Start 8 metres right of Bitter Taste.

Climb the right-curving flake leading to a break in the roof. Above the roof, take the left-hand line.

FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran, 1978

Trad 30m
17 R Bitter Taste

Loose and poorly protected.

Start: Start 3 metres right of "Sihaya" just left of the arete.

  1. 37m (17) Follow a flake on the arete onto the right wall. Continue over a bulge to a slab below the roof and traverse back left to the arete. Climb the dubious flake on the arete and move left to belay.

  2. 13m (-) On up the line.

FA: Peter Treby & Peter Watling, 1978

Trad 50m, 2
18 The Taws Hit

Delicate and good all the way. Melanie got squashed by a block while belaying.

Start: Start in the middle of the slab left of "Sihaya"

  1. 40m (18) Thin diagonal, up to and up tiny corner then leftward line to stance above overlap.

  2. 12m (18) 'Flake' and corner.

FA: Melanie & James McIntosh (alt), 1992

Trad 52m, 2
14 Sihaya

Fine climbing up thin cracks.

Start: Start 20 metres right of the large tree of Sinister-Dexter, just left of a corner-gully.

  1. 35m (14) Climb the cracks just left of the corner-gully to a small ledge.

  2. 15m (14) Move left to a slight corner then back right above the overhang to the front of the buttress and go up.

FA: Peter Watling & Gabrielle Pellissier, 1978

Trad 50m, 2
20 In Denial

Start: Start at the juggy line a few metres left of "Sihaya"

  1. 1m (20) Up the line, pass the perched block with care and belay on the slab.

  2. 25m (18) Follow the line diagonally left, then up to break in roof. Pull through and up slab.

FA: Sharyn George & Glenn Tempest(alt), 1997

Trad 26m, 2
15 Sinister Dexter

Start: Start at the large tree.

  1. 25m (15) Straight up and up a crack which leads up the right-hand side of the nose to a ledge.

  2. 35m (15) The crack, through the overhang and up.

FA: Peter Cunningham & John Van Der Leest, 1978

Trad 65m, 2
11 Catch The Rainbow

No pot of gold.

Start 1 metre right of Melange, 3 metres left of tree.

Go up and then traverse right and up a thin crack. Go diagonally left to a chimney and finish up this.

FA: Rowan Cooper & Ravi Pannell (alt), 1978

Trad 37m
16 Melange

Start: Start 4 metres right of "Semuta", 4 metres left of tree, 1 metre right of arete.

  1. 40m (16) Up and left to the arete and up the arete. Move into the chimney of "Catch The Rainbow" to belay.

  2. 15m (-) Finish up a crack through the overhang left of the chimney.

FA: Rod Young, Kevin Lindorff (alt) & Trevor Dance, 1978

Trad 55m, 2
16 Semuta

Indirect.

Start near the left side of the left buttress, at a slight rib 8 metres left of a large tree (start of Sinister Dexter), 3 metres left of major arete.

Up and follow a thin crack diagonally left to an orange wall. Traverse left below orange rock to steep arete. Follow arete and crack diagonally left until the angle eases. Go straight up the slab to the final crack of Melange.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Gabrielle Pellissier & Peter Watling, 1978

Trad 50m
21 Flash Gordon

Climb the shattered-looking orange and grey wall to a hand-crack running up left. Follow the crack for 10 metres until a hrad move up and right leads to a short crack. Climb the crack, step right and move up to a bulge which is climbed on the right (crux). Continue over bulges to finish up aV-groove.

Start: Start 10 metres left of "Semuta" and just right of a shallow corner of shattered rock.

FA: Ian Waring & Gordon Talbett, 1992

Trad 45m
20 Screaming Teeth

Start just left of the shattered corner left of Flash Gordon is a grey wall leading up to the mid-point of the prominent diagonal line. Up the grey wall to the prominent diagonal crack. Go left up the crack for 3 metres to a slight horizontal break on the right and a jug. Step right onto the Arapilesean wall and up to a faint nose. Left around the nose then right and up.

FA: Greg Aimer & Christina Freestone, 1992

Trad 40m
21 Screaming Teeth RHV

Good climbing on steep rock. Take several each of #4 and #5 RPs. Climb Screaming Teeth and traverse through a weakness in the overhang at the top.

FA: Greg Aimer & Christina Freestone, 1992

Trad 40m
20 False Teeth

Climb the shallow corner with an excursion onto the left wall to reach teh start of the major diagonal line. Follow the diagonal line to a slight horizontal break on the right and a jug. Step left onto the wall and climb the line to a blocky ledge. An easy wall leads to the top.

Start: Start at shallow corner olf shattered rock between "Screaming Teeth and "Flash Gordon".

FA: Greg Aimer & Christina Freestone started up Screaming Teeth (20). Gordon Talbett added the start as described, 1992

Trad 40m
15 False Teeth Variant Start
Trad 45m
18 Boots 'n All

Up easy wall and crack to the major diagonal weakness. Up left-facing corner and seam to BR. Either go up past another BR (22) or step right to a crack and up to ledge. Up easily to finish.

Start: Start 15 metres left of "Screaming Teeth"

FA: Greg Aimer & Christina Freestone, 1992

Mixed 35m, 1
15 Puss 'n Boots

Up the thin grey face to a ledge., step left to crack and overhang, then easily up to top.

Start: Start 3 metres right of the gully at the left side of the buttress.

FA: Greg Aimer & Christina Freestone, 1992

Trad 25m

Showing all 82 routes.