A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide.

For more information refer to our Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Buandik Area 261 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 142.311390, -37.250568

Access Issues: inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

1.1. Little Hands Cave 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Unique Features And Strengths:

Bolts and steep action packed routes

Access Issues:

To get to the Cave park at Manja Shelter on the Harrop Track, Walk around 1km then scurry up track to very steep and Hidden wall. Fingers Becomes Thumbs is on seperate cliff, behind LHC.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Josh's Project Sport Gareth Llewellin 1 years ago

holy pumpy!

2 * Substance D

Bouldery number, 4th bolted route from right

29Sport 10m
3 ** Raise The Bar

Follow the amazing Prow. 3rd bolted line from right.

29Sport 10m
4 *** Strontium Dogs

Amazing line. 2nd from right

31Sport 15m
5 ** Steel on Steel

Obvious RH Line

28Sport 12m, 6 Gareth Llewellin 1 years ago

Had a couple of very tired throws at this. Did ok. Very psyched to finish it off

Gareth Llewellin 1 years ago

Got to the end on my second go but the move is so hard! I need to come back and figure it out pro...

6 * Fingers Become Thumbs

Located near man habnds cave, opposite side of little hands. Destined to be an obscure classic.

27Sport 20m, 7 . 1 years ago

Rabbit comes out of the hat. Great rock & moves.

1.2. The Buandik Boulder 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Quangos 17Trad 15m
2 Arrow Head 15Trad 15m
3 Target Area 16Trad 15m
4 Quilled End 16Trad 17m

1.3. Mother Buttress 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Mad Dash

RBs up right side of wall. Slabby start, pumpy end finishing up right to anchors. 8 RBs.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

20Sport 20m, 8 Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Top half of this is awesome!

2 * Early Riser

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2005

19Trad 25m Neil Monteith 8 years ago

Had this one bolted 2 hours before anyone else turned up.

3 Blunted Enthusiasm

FA: Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert & KP, 2005

20Trad 25m Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

nice warm up for gallery and some good moves

Neil Monteith 7 years ago

I really need to add another two bolts to this.

4 Split Decision

FA: Neil Monteith Kent Paterson, 2005

19Trad 25m Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

hardish off ledge, wires needed

Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Quite pumpy up high!

5 I Need My Mother 22Trad 12m
6 Puppy Love 6Trad 12m
7 Spanking 8Trad 10m
8 High In The Saddle 19Trad 12m
9 Top Gun 6Trad 10m

1.4. The Studio 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (nmonteith)

A nice orange wall about 200 metres south-west of 'The Gallery'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Sir Nicholas Hasluck Memorial Slab Climb 16Trad 25m
2 Platinium Development 26Trad 30m Neil Monteith 9 years ago

another project begins...

3 ** Seven Diamond Experience

FA: Neil Monteith, 2005

25Trad 30m . 6 years ago

Brilliant route.

Neil Monteith 9 years ago

Tasty orange bulges 3.4.2005 - 2nd shot today! 14.3.2005 - Got all the moves easily. Now i just n...

4 Oh, Hum 24Trad 30m
5 Aladdin's Cave 12Trad 40m
6 Manufacturing Consent 13Trad 30m
7 Jeff 20Trad 26m
8 Joan 18Trad 26m Neil Monteith 9 years ago

Fantastic rock and a good line for a slab. Chossy topout.

1.5. Buffoon Block 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Boxed Set 21Trad 15m

1.6. Pinnacle Of Achievement 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ski School Instructor 17Trad 16m
2 Fantasy Ridge 21Trad 18m
3 The Dude 14Trad 25m
4 Shop Assestant From Hell 18Trad 25m

1.7. The Lego Blocks 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 La Vie En Rose 19Trad 15m
2 Je Ne Regrette Rien 21Trad 20m
3 Don't Make My Fat Wobble 19Trad 10m
4 Silver Service Slab 8Trad 8m
5 Repo Boofhead 12Trad 8m
6 Mon Dieu 14Trad 10m
7 Padam Padam 10Trad 12m

1.8. The Sheltered Workshop 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Secret Squirrels 19Trad 12m

1.9. The Gallery 30 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 142.274303, -37.243772

Description:© (jgoding)

Classy sports climbing on super steep, fantastic quality sandstone. As they say "the biggest jugs you're ever likely to fall off".

On the other hand, it has to be said that it is more popular/famous than it deserves to be, no doubt because it was one of the first sport crags in the whole state. So bear in mind that the 'Grampians' has a lot of other relatively unknown crags of comparable quality.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Perfect Crime

Orange overhung arête 10m below and 20m left of the Gallery main cave. Ringbolts! Stick clip first bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

22Sport 15m, 6 . 1 years ago

Believe the hype. Great :-)

Torbjorn 1 years ago

Some really cool moves to get started.

2 Azusi

Start from the left end of the cave. 3m up, cross right then straight up past RBs.

FA: Andrea Buchaver (Austria), 1992

21Sport 6 . 8 years ago

great position and some fun moves.

Phil Neville 8 years ago

Really enjoyable outing, worth doing.

3 * Mr Meat

Fight your way through a selection of sharpish pillows to a blissful ramble.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991

25Sport 24m David O'Donnell 7 years ago

what a bouldery unit!!.... BUNDY GET ON THIS NOW!!!!

benjamin james eichler 8 years ago

A very grunty start. Well worth some attention.

4 Mr Meat - Weaveworld 25Sport 20m
5 ** Mr Meat - Weaveworld - Chain Of Fools 26Sport 16m . 2 years ago

Like being in a David Lynch film....

Steve 12 years ago

Finished as for Two Tribes.

6 *** Weaveworld

Classic pumping leads into a tricky traverse L to an exposed stance on the arete. Finish up on huge buckets.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Edwin Young, 1991

23Sport 25m Andrew Clark 1 years ago

Now have an idea of what it'll take to put this all together.

Andrew Clark 1 years ago

Off moving up to the 5th bolt. Obviously a day of trackwork and following Gareth up a 22 and a 2...

7 ** Chain of Fools

Navigate your way through the maze of chalk on some of the biggest holds you're ever likely to find at this grade. Easier than 'Weaveworld' and a popular "warmup".

FA: Richard Smith, Glenn Tempest, 1992

23Sport 15m Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Repeat

Simon Madden 4 years ago

Nice thuggery on big holds, hard move at the lip.

8 ** Two Tribes

Another fun jug-haul. Has a tricky section in the middle, but the real crux is past the last bolt, which is the same finish as 'Chain of Fools'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991

24Sport 15m Torbjorn 1 years ago

High gravity day!

Tom Kjaer-Olsen 2 years ago

4th shot in too short a period of time, no more energy. Just got to the 4th bolt.

9 * Evil D

Linkup el supremo. First 3 bolts on TT, move R acros CTS and LPM, join MP at fifth bolt. Finish up MP.

A good one to do when the crag is realy busy!

FA: Simon Carter

29Sport 25m
10 * Chasin the Tribe

Linkup of a more petite fashion.

No prizes for guessing which routes...

26Sport 15m Steve 7 years ago

Hard! Fell off 30cm from the chain! Links in from the 3rd bolt on Chasin. Nothing new. Training f...

11 *** Chasin' the Shadow

It's 3 o'clock..tick tock..

A hard bouldery start, then it's a pumpy fight up and L to the same chain as the previous routes.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991

27Sport 15m Matt Brooks 11 months ago

Done 1997

Matt Brooks 11 months ago

Done 1997

12 *** Shadow Death

FA: Nick Sutter

28Sport 17m . 2 years ago

Training is life....

13 Chasin The Monkey

Starts as CTS finishes up MP. Classic pumping.

FA: Nick Sutter, 2000

29Sport
14 ** Le Petit Mort

Popular with the euros. Up the next line R to a big dyno. Finish off L in the cave.

FA: Helmut Nesadba, 1991

29Sport 20m Matt Brooks 11 months ago

Done 1999

Matt Brooks 11 months ago

Done 1999

15 ** Nicotine

The RH finish to 'Le Petit Mort'. Keep on truckin' up the steep headwall after doind most of LPM. Some people start up Chasin' the 'Shadow' instead, but they are silly.

FA: Garth Miller, 1996

32Sport 23m
16 *** Monkey Puzzle

The line of the crag. Long steep pumper straight through the guts of the wall. To descend either; back-clean, lower off 'Nicotine' bolts (careful traversing over), or top out and untie (and leave your draws there for the next punter).

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

28Sport 22m Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Just another try on another day

Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Great steep climbing. If only I lived in Victoria so I could get this clean.

17 Monkey Puzzle Variant Start

Line of bolts just R of MP, to join it at the lip. A bit of a squeeze job.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1998

29Sport 20m
18 Monkey Puzzle Direct

Bouldery start into monkey puzzle.

29Sport 20m . 3 years ago

drop the clutch!

19 Bananas In Ya Pie

Link 'Monkey' Direct into Koala

FA: Joshua Grose, 2007

30Sport 20m
20 Koala - Monkey Puzzle Direct

Break off left after 3rd bolt of Koala into MPD.

27Sport 15m . 2 years ago

Training is life. But my life is chaos.

21 Smokin Monkey

Starts as koala, into monkey direct. Finishes as nicotine headwall. Power Endurance.

28Sport . 2 years ago

Off the medication & back in the game. let the training begin.

22 * Like a Koala in His Eucalyptus

Rock isn't as good as the other routes here, but it has a couple interesting moves.

FA: Jean-Minh Trinh-Thieu, 1994

29Sport 20m Matt Brooks 11 months ago

Completed in 1998, fell of last jug flake on onsight! Was not happy Jan!

Matt Brooks 11 months ago

Completed in 1998, fell of last jug flake on onsight! Was not happy Jan!

23 ** Gorilla Tactics

Really steep, but a few sneaky rests take the sting out a bit (if you find them).

Make sure your belayer is paying attention when you are clipping. It's not a serious route or a death route, but it could be messy.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

26 RSport 15m Paul Kinnane 2 years ago

There is a lot of motivation to not fall off at the end of this climb, because if you do, it migh...

David O'Donnell 5 years ago

its a funny feeling, getting closer to the ground as you climb higher!

24 * Pigs In a Blanket

Next line right of GT. Crux at the lip, so watch your back (as for previous route).

FA: Corinne Gwyther, 1998

26Sport 15m Matt Brooks 11 months ago

Easy to get lost in this end of the cave!

Matt Brooks 11 months ago

Easy to get lost in this end of the cave!

25 ** Super Delux

Mega R to L traverse. Start in the back of the cave R of Pigs. Up through Pigs, cross GT at the 3rd bolt, pull the lip of Koala, move past MP and 'Nicotine', then finish as for LPM.

FA: Julian Saunders, 1998

28Sport 25m Matt Brooks 11 months ago

Originally completed in

Matt Brooks 11 months ago

Originally completed in

26 Hueco Dreaming

One move wonder and a soft touch.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

25Sport 9m Matt Brooks 11 months ago

Completed onsight 1990

Matt Brooks 11 months ago

Completed onsight 1990

27 * Texas Nightmare

Not a one move wonder, and not a soft touch.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

25Sport 12m Matt Brooks 11 months ago

Completed onsight 1990

Matt Brooks 11 months ago

Completed onsight 1990

28 * Bang, Bang You're Dead!

Start just right of caves in gallery chasm. 4 U-bolts to lower off.

FA: Kent Patterson, 2006

24Sport 13m, 4 Andrew Clark 1 years ago

Interesting getting off the ground. One very hard section that was interesting. Not sure fi I'm...

. 7 years ago

So strange...4 U bolts to anchor.

29 Going Blank Again

Start 5m right of 'Bang, Bang You're Dead!'. Balancy start past U-bolt. 5 more FHs (last one is hidden) show the way to the anchor.

FA: Kent Patterson, 2006

22Sport 17m, 6 Andrew Clark 1 years ago

Surprised I got the opening of this as my warm up for the day. Had to rest further up though.

robbie houlihan 6 years ago

my first 22, still havent climbed a 20 or 21

30 The Educator

Located on wall opposite the main Gallery cave. Climb obvious right facing wide corner or the face right of the corner passing one UB and two FH¹s. At the 2nd FH move right to doubly bolt lower off.

FA: Ben Hawthorne and Doug Williams

16Sport 12m, 3 Andrew Clark 1 years ago

Decided I didn't want to climb any higher with water dripping in my face and down climbed.

Jason Morton 2 years ago

Best to stay left and not try the face!

1.10. Quartz Block 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Uknown Easy Sport Route 16Trad 14m . 9 years ago

slightly contrived IMO.....

Neil Monteith 9 years ago

A mystery new route?

2 Dark Caravan 13Trad 30m
3 Cold Shower 21Trad 25m
4 Killdozer Diagonal 19Trad 35m
5 Searching For PB 18Trad 35m
6 While Mick Snores 21Trad 37m
7 Lightning Crack 22Trad 25m
8 *** Portrait Of An Urban Badger 22Trad 19m
9 Cave Clan 19Trad 19m

1.11. Rain Wall 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:© (jgoding)

Just around the corner from the womb-like Gallery ... but a whole different experience. Very few bolts here, mainly serious trad on a big wall.

Approach:© (jgoding)

Before you enter the narrow gully just before you get to the Gallery hang a right and scramble down a loose gully, then follow a rough track left around the base of the cliff until you see the large clean face (about 70m high).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 X Marks The Spot

The first line on the left end of 'Rain Wall', a right-leading diagonal crack, with start marked with a white square (already there at the time of the first recorded ascent)

FA: Jim Van Gelder, James Strohfeld, Neil Barr, 1983

15Trad 30m
2 Sally's Route

Unusual climbing up the centre of the wall left of "Blackberry Nip".

FA: Greg and Sally Child, 1992

16Trad 40m
3 Blackberry Nip

There are three diagonal lines right of "X Marks The Spot". Start below a small, curved roof. The line, stepping left at the top.

FA: Stephen Lake, Leigh Howes, 1983

10Trad 40m
4 Flash Flood

Take double ropes.

Start: Start as for "Blackberry Nip".

FA: Edwin Young, 1992

21Mixed 33m, 3
5 ** Rain on the Brain
  1. 25m (22) Upface directly below distinctive skull formation (2 BR) then bbig flake to semi-hanging belay from bolts in skull.

  2. 25m (22) Up to BR. Traverse lip, BR, to left-leading diagonal crack. Up.

FA: Edwin Young, Michael Hampton (alt), 1992

22Mixed 50m, 2 Neil Monteith 9 years ago

So very pumped on the second pitch. Only pure screaming got me to the jugs. Awesome line.

6 The Water Line 24 M1Aid 80m
7 Scorched Earth 24Trad 60m
8 She Moves In Mysterious Ways 19Trad 17m
9 The Web 17Trad 17m
10 Plain English 10Trad 18m
11 I'd Rather Be A Biscuit 24Trad 18m
12 Drain Pipe 13Trad 22m
13 Broken English 13Trad 10m
14 Gutter Talk 13Trad 10m
15 Domestic Violence 17Trad 18m
16 Dark Side Of The Wall

May be substantially a repeat of "Sally's Route"

Start: start left of "Blackberry Nip" at the right-hand of 2 shallow cornere which face each other.

FA: Peter Campbell, Matt Darby, Michael Hampton, Edwin Young, 2000

14Trad 40m
17 Rain Dance

Off block, up, 3 bolts, fixed wire to anchors above horizontal break. Third bolt used for aid. Rap off.

Start: Start 5 metres right of black streak.

FA: Ed Darling, Gareth Llewellyn, Simon, Gordon, 1997

24 M0Mixed 3

1.12. Cultivation Crag 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pigs 19Trad 18m
2 Bucketing Compost 17Trad 18m
3 Burn The Furniture 20Trad 18m
4 Transcendental Irrigation 20Trad 19m

1.13. Hut Creek Track 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

1.13.1. Red Cave 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Wendy

Follow the steep crack in the left side of the cave, exiting through the same cave as "Welcome To Barbados".

FA: Simon Mentz, Malcolm Matheson, 1992

23Trad 15m
2 *** Welcome to Barbados

Large roof doesn't even come close to describing this.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, James Falla, Paul Hoskins, 1993

29Trad 50m
3 * Have a Nice Day

Fun roof problem.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Paul Hoskins, 2000

26Trad 10m

1.13.2. Fawlty Towers 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

Roofy but limited crag.

Approach:© (kieranl)

GR 131742

Walk up Hut Creek to first rocky peak on right. May be easier these days to access via the cave of Hands access track.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Switchback

The main roof, the upper of the two biggest roofs, on the north face of the peak.

FA: Malcom Matheson, Keith Lockwood, 1993

23Trad 35m

1.13.3. Nearby Crag 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

A steep little crag on the south side of Hutt Creek about 1 km east of the Cave of Hands.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Approach along Hutt Creek Track for about a kilometre after the gate until below the crag which is up on the right. Walk straight up the hillside for 15 or 20 minutes.

GR 137735 "Victoria Range" 1:25000 sheet.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Close At Hand

Very fine, sustained bridging. This the left of two big corners on the cliff.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, 1989

20Trad 25m
2 ** Duelling Imans

Wild climbing high on the stacked corners just right of 'Close At Hand'. The slightly conrived start robs the climb of a second star.

Start 2 metres right of 'Close At Hand'.

FA: Parrish Robbins, Kieran Loughran, 1990

24Trad 40m
3 All Around My Hat

The big corner 20 metres right of Duelling Imams.

FA: Parrish Robbins, 1990

20Trad 30m

1.13.4. Mordor 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Description:© (jgoding)

Remote

Approach:© (jgoding)

roughly 3km north of the Fortress and about 2km West of Mt Thackeray. Yep - it's in the middle of no-where! Start your walk on the Hutt Creek Track, after half an hour take a right turn (uphill- look for the yellow tape) after crossing two small dry creek beds within about 2-300m of eachother (the turnoff is not far past the 2nd creek bed). Follow this (fairly well marked) track for another hour and a bit to find a little slice of remote heaven. You might find yourself humming "these boots are made for walking" as you go...

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Black Gate

Varied climbing amongst orange scoops, over zestful bulges, and up a quality headwall.

Start: Start off the ledge on the right side of the cliff (about 20m off the ground) where there are belay (FH) bolts.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

28Sport 37m, 15
2 * SheLob's Lair

Spectacular right hand arete.

Start: Start as per 'The Black Gate'.

  1. 15m (22) Up 15m (7 bolts) and step right to rap anchors.

  2. 25m (21) Right onto arete, pull the steep moves past the lair then enjoy the view. 35m abseil.

FA: Benjamin Storey, 2009

22Sport 40m, 13
3 * Dargorlad

Sustained, interesting, well protected but will need a bit more cleaning to become it's best.

Start: About in the middle of the cliff at ground level is an attractive well featured slabby looking wall.

FA: Josef Goding, 2008

18Trad 25m
4 * Mount Doom

Good fun climbing - well protected

Start: At ground level near the left end of the cliff is an attractive crack.

FA: Josef Goding (P1), Ingvar Lidman (P2), 2008

18Trad 35m

1.14. Millennium Caves 34 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 142.294784, -37.242594

Description:© (willmonks)

A great find - the then bumblies Julian and Simon managed to bolt and, eventually, send some classic steep sport routes.

Be aware that most routes at this crag rely on one bolt keeping you off the deck, even when you're well up the pitch. If a bolt breaks or pulls, or a biner unclips, you're toast. Bad belaying pretty much guarantees groundfall potential as well - this has already resulted in a number of big plummets, near groundfalls, and actual groundfalls even from quite high on routes (thankfully with surprisingly minimal injuries, so far).

The climbs are great - but it's your own responsibility to decide whether or not to climb them.

Mobile coverage is poor to non-existent from the car-park to and at the caves. However there is coverage from the top terrace at Pygmy Terraces near the car-park so there may also be coverage if you scramble to the top of Millenium.

Approach:© (willmonks)

Note the road from Buandik campground is closed in the cold wet months (from about Jun/Jul) to protect the road itself, and is scheduled to open at 'October' 31 each year. The Parks Vic website has a link to the 'Grampians' Road Report, which gives current road conditions and road closures. If the gate is closed keen climbers can still get there simply by walking up the road from Buandik (about 1 hr total). If the gate is open, drive up Goat Track from Buandik for about 1.5km. This crag pretty much completely occupies the top of the hill to the right (south) as Goat Track reaches it's high point. 2WD cars can be coaxed up the hill...but a bit of clearance and/or 4WD is certainly desirable to navigate the large water bars and steep loose rocky sections (softroaders will be fine). When the road reaches a saddle at the top of the hill and starts to drop for the first time, there is a parking bay on the left (north) side of the road. The walk-in starts directly opposite, you can't really see the crag so just follow the well-formed track. The view of the crag in the first topo below is from the intersection of Goat Track and 'Victoria Range' Road - if you end up here you've gone too far, go back towards Buandik until you reach the saddle.

Goat Track is equally passable to/from the east (i.e. for suitable cars), and joins up with Syphon Rd at the eastern foot of the range. This way is probably a bit quicker if you're driving to/from Halls Gap but involves a bit more rough driving. Great views though.

The walking track is well trod and easy to follow, and initially heads away from the road but then starts veering left and contours the hillside, until you reach the 'Five Spice' cave after about 10 minutes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Five Spice

Looks like a fun bit of steep thugging.

Start: This is the route on its own in the cave you get to before the main area.

FA: Stuart Wyithe

26Trad 10m . 6 years ago

Not good at end of day..

2 * Living With Sister

Careful on the runout finish.

Start: Start in the left of the main cave, a few metres left of Nomads.

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

24 RSport 10m, 5 Will Monks 5 years ago

[3] gear on, refresher [4] no probs. quite ok despite appearances

Steve 5 years ago

Went past last bolt up right to Nomads bolt - then jumped off - but whatever...

3 ** Nomads, Saints and Indians

Roof climbers rave about this one. 'Steep' jugging to a few hard moves at the end. Unfortunately once again the bolt spacing warrants caution.

Start: Start down the very back of the left end of the main cave.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

29 RSport 18m, 7 Phil Neville 4 years ago

Freakin arctic conditions & misserable weather. But.... I got a new sequence at the top which is ...

Phil Neville 5 years ago

Same highpoint again. Feeling better when i get there though now. Phsyched on the link from the k...

4 ** Nomads Saints and Indians Halfway 24Trad 10m David O'Donnell 5 years ago

my style:-)

Jason Smith 5 years ago

Super cool jug pulling - the bolting on the extension is pretty shit, even by Vic standards

5 * Red Vinyl

Quite close to Nomads but it still looks great. The usual warning applies about having only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start: Start as for Nomads.

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

29 RTrad 20m . 1 years ago

Legend!! Grade 28 imho.....

. 1 years ago

This route may not exist, but it's still great. Fell off 'anchor' clipping hold. I think 28/29 ...

6 *** Breathing Gasoline

A very impressive line blasting out the biggest part of this massive overhang, on beautiful red stone. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start: Start as for Nomads.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

30 RTrad 28m . 6 years ago

Very hard boulder at top.

7 ** Tunnel to Caracas

Climbs the inside of the tunnel feature just R of Nomads. It looks a bit obscure but is very good.

Start: Start as for Nomads.

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

28Sport 15m, 5 Lee Cujes 4 years ago

Bolt to bolt

Lee Cujes 4 years ago

Happy to do it second try [2]

8 ** Tunnel Vision

Extension of TTC.

FA: Kent Paterson, early, 2009

29 RSport 25m, 8 . 3 years ago

Testpiece at grade?

9 * Bwana

Boulderers will love this.

Start: Start about 8m R of Nomads.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

28Sport 9m, 2 Will Monks 5 years ago

end of day just to get KPs draws back. actually managed a few moves on this one, seems quite fun

Phil Neville 5 years ago

Super cool boulder problem!! Jumpy and fun. Should do next time hopefully.

10 * A Girl ln Every Port 30Sport
11 * The Floating Cloud

Great rock and some nice moves, but it's a shame about the rest ledges ruining the middle section.

Start: Start at the R end of the wall at a well chalked low hanging prow.

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

23Sport 15m, 5 Lee Cujes 4 years ago

Problems are solved with dynos.

David O'Donnell 5 years ago

rock climbing...that thing rock climbers do..

12 Reckless Mind

Now retroed with 3 bolts and a rap anchor. It's best not to lower off the anchor because it's over the top and will probably trash your rope. Abseil or back jump.

Start: Start about 50m L of where you scramble up from the Main Cave.

FA: Julian Saunders (solo) 1990s, 2000

22Mixed 15m, 3 . 1 years ago

Really short really desperate.

Tim Le 10 years ago

some easy jugs and flakes, then into some desperate crimpers. fun warm up

13 Shattering Reflections Of Climbing Ability

Takes SFON past 3 bolts. Then direct up trad weakness.

FA: Matt 'Master of the mid grade' Adams

25Mixed 15m, 3
14 ** Shattering Reflections On Narcissism

Designed to be climbed as a quite scary sport route, but rumour has it there is the odd trad piece to sanitise it a little. No anchor...clean it how you wish! There is a piker's variant which goes at 27 by traversing a little higher than shown when you're about 15m into the traverse. Line 18a in the topo shows a grade 25 trad variant done by Matt Adams.

Start: Start on the boulder on the R edge of the huge cave, on the R side of the 2nd tier.

FA: Julian Saunders, 1997

29 RSport 25m . 6 years ago

Oh manay!!

15 ** Velocity of Time

Another great looking roof. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start: Start a few metres L of 'Labyrinths'.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1995

26 RSport 15m Phil Neville 5 years ago

Wanted the flash, but the crux at the top is flippen hard!!

Tim Le 6 years ago

Fell off with the bolts in front of my nose on the 2nd shot!

16 ** Labyrinths

The prime line through this gorgeous red-roofed cave. Possibly even 3 stars. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start: Start in the base of the cave.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1995

26 RSport 15m David O'Donnell 5 years ago

fucking awesome climb..needed more time

Steve 5 years ago

Wanted to do this for years. Great moves.

17 Kidney Stoned

Maybe a bit contrived but still damn good fun. You'd be forgiven for thinking the route was named after the striking unusual kidney shaped plate of rock it follows. But by some bizarre and unfortunate coincidence, Bob happened to pass some actual kidney stones while sending it! Stretched urethra anyone? Ouccchhh!

Start: Start R of the cave.

FA: Bob Novellino, 1995

20 RSport 18m Steve 5 years ago

Floating Cloud is a better warm up.

Zorba Parer 7 years ago

Fantastic route, very scary traverse, had me afraid like the traverse pitch of Hotel California. ...

18 * Dual Fuel

Dual Fuel? Jule Fuel? Who knows how it's meant to be spelt. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start: Start as for Nomads.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000

32 RTrad 20m
19 ** Fire in da Belly

A whole new route without a single extra bolt!

Start: Start as for 'Red Vinyl'.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000

32 RTrad 25m
20 * Verdensrom

This beautifully coloured wall is unfortunately quite cruxy...but people still seem to like it.

Start: Start 5m R of Floating Cloud.

FA: some Czech dude, 2000

23Trad 15m Lee Cujes 4 years ago

Just crimp

David O'Donnell 5 years ago

a little devious.,.2nd go.

21 Chapped Lips

Nice. Follow the same line as 'Blabber Mouth' until it steepens then move diagonally left to finish.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

19Trad 14m
22 * Eat More Lard

Looks like a pissy little link up but it was actually done before Aging 'Gigolo'.

Start: Start as for 'The Floating Cloud'

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

31Sport 23m
23 Blabber Mouth

take the obvious central line to where it steepens, with a hard move near the top.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

19Trad 12m
24 Time Out

Up the face 1 metre left of 'Time In Memorial' to the horizonatl traverse left to the top.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

14Trad 10m
25 ** Nomads to 5th bolt

The best "moderate" route here.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

24 RSport 14m, 5
26 * Sniffing Petrol

Pumpy fun for the kids who aren't up to 'Breathing Gasoline'. A good find as this cave is under-endowed in the 25-27 bracket.

Start: Start as for 'Breathing Gasoline'.

FA: Steve Chapman, 2010

25Sport 15m, 5
27 To The Point

Start as for 'Blabber Mouth' but move across the opening of the cave. Pull through overlap to finish.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

21Trad 14m
28 Time In Memorial

Starts in the middle of the wall off a flake. Straight up then veer left.

FA: Chris Lawrence, Geoff Butcher, 1991

12Trad 9m
29 Project

The rounded arete just R of Floating Cloud

Sport 9m
30 Oxford Comma

This gets a serious rating because it only has a single biner lower off. Make up your own mind whether to trust it.

Start: Start at the cute little orange face tucked away on a boulder just right of the walking track, approx 40m before you hit the 'Five Spice' cave.

FA: Kent Paterson, american Elliot, early, 2009

20 RSport 10m, 3 . 5 years ago

Who give a f#ck about an oxford comma?

31 Unknown Project

A red fixed hanger and a glue-reinforced flake can be found on this line.

Start: Start 10m L of 'Five Spice'

FA: Equipped by Sharik Walker?, 2000

Sport 12m
32 * What's an Aging Gigolo to Do

The other competitor for the most impressive line here, although it doesn't get as many stars. Yet to receive a 2nd ascent.

Start: Start near the lonely boulder about 15m R of 'Bwana'.

FA: Garth Miller, 2000

32Sport 25m
33 Unknown

Short but action-packed crimpiness.

Start: Start 5m R of 'Reckless Mind'.

24Sport 7m, 3
34 * Fat and Sassy

One of three truly gobsmacking lines out to the very top of this humungous cave, but it takes some stuffing around to get started.

Start: Starts from the ledge above 'Bwana' (you can avoid actually climbing 'Bwana' by simply stick clipping it\'s anchor!).

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

27 RSport 15m, 3 . 5 years ago

Completely superceeded by tunnel vision. Runout!

1.15. Goat Track 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

1.15.1. Pygmy Terrace 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
Description:© (kieranl)

A series of compact orange walls with terraces in between. This is the right-hand side of the same escarpment as "Millenium Caves". This area is closer to the road than "Millenium" but it is nothing like as good.

Mobile phones get Telstra coverage from the top terrace, deteriorating as you get closer to ground level.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Drive up Goat Track from Buandik and park at the Cave of Fishes car-park (as for "Millenium Caves"). The top terrace, with a red wall and cave, is visible above the tree tops to the right as you face the start of the "Millenium" track. The terraces rise from right-to-left so, from the start of the "Millenium Caves" track, aim to the right of the top terrace.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Curse Of The Vampire Goldfish

The only climb positiviely identified and looks OK. Interesting traverse.

Start: Start at the righthand end of the upper terrace.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1992

18Mixed 20m, 1
2 Yerba Mate

Hard Start

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1992

17Trad 18m
3 Timor

Left arete from middle terrace

FA: Chris Lawrence (solo), 1991

9Trad 19m
4 Vukovar

Face 2 metres right of 'Timor'

FA: Chris Lawrence (solo), 1991

8Trad 10m
5 Consequential

Face right of 'Vukovar'

FA: Chris Lawrence (solo), 1991

9Trad 10m
6 Silence And Speed

Layback, then face right of 'Consequential'

FA: Geoff Butcher (solo), 1991

10Trad 10m
7 Workaholics

Up from block right of 'Silence And Speed'.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1991

15Trad 12m
8 The Jig Is Up

Face above block 1 metre right of 'Workaholics'.

FA: Chris Lawrence, Geoff Butcher, 1991

13Trad 12m
9 Stress Shared

Crack 1 metre right of 'The Jig Is Up'

FA: Geoff Butcher, Chris Lawrence, 1991

16Trad 12m
10 Triangle Fridge

Left under flake 4 metres right of 'Stress Shared' to juggy bulge. Left to finish.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1991

16Trad 14m
11 Not Chewing Gum

Poor protection. Corner, bulge, wall 1 metre right of 'Triangle Fridge'.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1991

19 RTrad 14m
12 East Across The Pampas

Follow left-leaning crack at right end of cliff to arete. go around arete and along the main face.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1992

21Trad 40m
13 Glad To See The Boat

Prominent flake line 2 metres right of "Condor Capers". Hard start unless you're tall.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

21Trad 12m
14 Condor Capers

Take the charcoal-black corner line in the middle of the wall. At horizontal break, move right up flake to finish.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

18Trad 21m

1.15.2. Goat Wall 1 route in Crag

Summary:
Description:© (kieranl)

A limited crag with easy access.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Located on the south side of Goat Track, 800 metres east of Cultivation Creek shelter. Crag is 25 metres from road.

GR 171780 (Victoria Gap 1:25000)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Remedy

Steep with a go-for-it finish.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Stuart Imer, 1992

22Trad 15m

1.16. Victoria Range Road 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

1.16.1. Family Wall 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
Description:© (kieranl)

Dark, reddish-brown slab with a crack up the middle that can be seen up through the trees past two large boulders. (3 routes).

There is also a big orange cave 400 metres south of 'Family Wall', obvious from road, with 1 climb.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Drive south along the 'Victoria Range' Road from Goat Track for 2 kilometres.

Approx GR 160758 (Victoria Range 1:25000)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Christopher

The left end of the slab on thin holds with virtually no protection.

FA: Garry wills, Greg davies, 1989

20 RTrad 16m
2 Elise

The face just right of where the crack splits the face.

FA: Peter Megens, Isa Davies, 1989

13Trad 16m
3 Matilda

Go up at the right end of the face and through weakness in small bulge.

FA: Richard Evans, Dave Cherry, 1989

14Trad 16m
4 Eats Dogs And Children

Unpleasant climbing

FA: Melanie and James McIntosh, 1991

19Trad 35m
5 Roadside Arete 19Trad 10m

1.16.2. Norman Neve Momorial Wall 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
Description:© (kieranl)

A distinct 20 metre high pinnacle close to the road. 3 climbs.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Drive 3 km south on the 'Victoria Range' Road from the Goat Track junction. 1.8 km further south are two boulders on the west side of road with 1 other climb.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Terminal Cough

Start on the north side of the pinnacle at the left end. Up to the left crack and on to the top on rounded holds.

FA: Dave Cherry, Richard evans, 1989

17Trad 20m
2 Greyhounds In Space

The right end of the north face. Up to the righthand crack and up it.

FA: Isa Davis, Peter Megens, 1989

17Trad 20m
3 The Good, The Bad, And The Norman

Up the south side of the pinnacle.

FA: Garry wills, Greg davies, 1989

17Trad 20m
4 Roadside Arete

Follow the roadside arete on the left boulder and finish up a hand crack on the right.

FA: James and Melanie McIntosh, 1991

19Trad 10m

1.17. Billywing Buttress 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

The main south-west outcrop at Buandik. Billywing Bluff is the distinctive overhanging red wall at the west end. The first climbs are on the north side, just downhill from the Lego Blocks.

The climbs are described in an ant-clockwise direction.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Praying Mantis 12Trad 40m
2 Keeyuga

At the top of Green 'Gully' is a corner with a bouldery start.

FA: Peter Campbell, Rhyl Shaw, Michael Hampton, 1993

14Unknown 15m
3 Peek A Boo

Climb the laid-back arete right of gully to finish through overlap.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Judy Grove, 1993

10Trad 18m
4 Wayne's World

Technical seam 3 metres right of "Walking Under Strictest Secrecy" to easy finish.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1993

25Trad 18m
5 ** Squat Or Rot

Steep climbing on good holds. The obvious line a few metres right of "Domino"

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1994

22Trad 25m
6 Shitty Plastic In Cars

Tricky start to the easiest of the three lines.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

17Trad 20m
7 ** Slapdance

Superb flake-line just right of "Cornered" (PR and FH) to ledge. Finish up overhanging corner.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Malcolm Matheson, 1993

23Mixed 25m, 1
8 Finger Buckets

Climb the centre of the wall. The fingery start eases to pleasant bucket hauling.

Start: Just inside the wider, central chasm is a steep wall on the left.

FA: Michael Hampton, Peter Campbell, 1993

16Trad 18m
9 The Big Mammu

Climb the front of the obvious rib between two chasms.

Start: There is a slender gum growing in front of the cliff.

FA: Peter Campbell, Michael Hampton (alt) and Rhyl Shaw, 1993

12Trad 45m
10 * Cornered

Intricate bridging in sustained diagonal corner to a steep exit.

Start: Start on the terrace, at left side of wall.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Glenn Tempest, 1993

24Trad 20m
11 Lager

Climb the greyish rib on the right side of the most compact slab area. Continue easily up cracks and jugs.

FA: Michael Hampton (solo), 1993

10Trad 70m
12 Walking Under Strictest Secrecy

Climb the orange wall to weakness in the dark rock above. Belay at ledge a few metres higher. Downclimb back of buttress into gully.

Start: Start a few metres right of the chossy black off-width.

FA: Peter Campbell, Stuart Imer, Michael Hampton, 1993

19Trad 18m
13 Acting The Goat

Start: Scramble up into the cave at base of bluff. Start from ramp at left end.

  1. 20m (15) Climb the wall to gap at top left of cave. Pull on jugs to gain wall above. Continue to belay level with upper terrace.

  2. 20m (-) Go up right and up the easy arete.

FA: Pitch 1: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher. Pitch 2 : Edwin Young, Kate Hilton (same day), 1994

15Trad 40m
14 Mundarnin

Overhang then crack and wall on east end of "Wall Of Deceit", finishing right under the overhang.

FA: Michael Hampton, Peter Campbell, 1993

18Trad 18m
15 Shut The Fuck Up!

A bucket haul with a fun conclusion.

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1993

18Unknown 20m
16 Please Shut Up

Start up "Shut The Fuck Up!" but continue up the steep arete on fantastic holds.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

19Trad 18m
17 Stick Lizard

Takes the centre of the face on block overlooking head of Green 'Gully'.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

16Unknown 12m
18 Stout

As it was, soloed potential protection is unknown.

Start: Start at the left side of the slab, 5 metres right of the chasm.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Richard Smith (both solo), 1993

17Trad 70m
19 Strawman

The crack above the start to the terrace access ramp

FA: Peter Campbell, Michael Hampton, 1993

17Trad 18m
20 Goanna

The crack in the nose right of "Honey Pot".

FA: Peter Campbell, Michael Hampton, 1983

15Trad 15m
21 * Domino

Thin line past grass clumps and on to a stance. Left up ramp to pull on to a hanging slab. Step awkwardly right and up to top.

Start: Start at the thin line just right of the dished overhang.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Greg Caire, 1994

23Trad 35m
22 * Honey Pot

Another Buandik gem.

Start: Start at the head of the next chasm.

FA: Michael Hampton, Rhyl Shaw.(FTRA Peter Campbell), 1993

20Trad 12m
23 Big Nose N Barge Arse Go Bouldering

Excellent climbing up the nose at the gully intersection.

Start: Scramble up to the descent gully.

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1993

20Trad 18m
24 Bitter

The groove right of "Stout" then continue all the way.

FA: Richard Smith (solo), 1993

18Trad 70m
25 Half Burnt Match

Start: Start at the lovely clean crack 1m right of the black line forming

the black identifying chimney.

FA: Doig, Dionne Norgate, Erik ?

FA: Glen Buchanan, Louise, 2001

14Trad 50m

1.18. The Tower 32 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 142.270849, -37.240316

Description:© (nmonteith)

The perfect summer crag. Super shady steep orange wall of immaculate rock quality which get strong breezes. Like a poor mans 'Taipan Wall' it contains slopers, rounded pockets and a funny mix of bolts and trad. The nearby bouldering is also very good.

"How can a wall like this have lain dormant for so long?" That was the question on Kent's mind when he stumbled upon this area on one of his many exploratory trips with Neil whilst developing nearby 'Scoop Rocks'. Easily visible from the highway and the Gallery it only contained one climb before the development of 2003. 'The Tower' is a giant pillar of rock with a sheer orange wall on its south face. From all sides it requires roped climbing to summit and this has obviously repelled people from attempting first ascents. With the addition of rap anchors the climbs are now much easier to deal with. The rock is of the finest quality – comparable to the 'Bluffs' at 'Arapiles'. The routes are wandery affairs up proud lines and contain some natural gear. As a training ground for 'Taipan Wall' this place is hard to beat. This is not a sport crag. In the last few years there has been extensive bouldering development in the forest surrounding this wall. This is one of the best bouldering areas in the 'Victoria' Ranges and there is still tonnes of potential for new problems. There is no official guide to this area so ask around for more info. Julian Saunders and Simon Weill seem to know a lot about it.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Access: 4 hrs drive from 'Melbourne', 5 mins drive from Buandik campground, 25 minute walk. From the junction of 'Harrop Track' and Red Rock Rd, drive N along Red Rock Rd for 900m, and turn right (East) into a small track. After 100m, turn R at a fork in the track. Continue 700m from the fork then turn left off the through track to a side track. This ends after 50m, park here. The walk-in is marked with red tags on trees but is not particularly easy to follow. Generally speaking, it heads East up the gully for 25mins to the crag. Within about 50m of the carpark is a jump across a deep little creek bed, then soon after the track heads R (SE) into the swampish sword grass area in the base of the gully (occasionally damp underfoot). The track stays amongst the sword grass for a surprisingly long way, to where

small (15m) rock buttresses start to appear on either side (The Crater is on the right here). Here the track starts to trend up the L side of the gully but still heads generally East, and is cairned to lead through to the base of the crag which is slightly to the left and faces South. 'Access' to this crag is quite complex and may require either a personal tour guide or a detailed map for first timers. For access information please contact Neil Monteith on nmonteith at yahoo.com or 0421 994 290. The south facing main wall is shaded all day long. In winter it is a cold miserable place which rarely dries even several days after rain. In summer it is perfect shady and cool. Down jackets get worn even on 30'C days! A small cave with some good roof boulder problems is a good shelter and is located below Iron Arms. GPS Location (-37.2405, 142.2711)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Donkey Kong Jnr

Located on north east side of 'The Tower' and just right of giant chossy cave. Novelty sport climbing up blob holds. One very high first BR and two RB's lead to DRB lower off.

FA: Kent Paterson Neil Monteith, 2004

23Sport 10m, 4 . 1 years ago

Good fun with new bolts.

. 10 years ago

a funky novelty route. First bolt is too high up tho !

2 * Choda Boy

Bouldery little number.

FA: Ingvar

26Sport 17m, 5 . 1 years ago

PPPPSSSYYYCCCHHHEEE!!!

. 1 years ago

EOTD demolition. Let me back on it.

3 * Zelda

Bouldery start, sustained crimpy middle. Lotsa bolts! Starts about 2m right of 'Wellington Wimpy'.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

24Sport 20m . 3 years ago

Lovely pocketed wall.

Neil Monteith 7 years ago

Sustained crimpy stepp face. Nice.

4 * Wellington Wimpy

One of the better warm-ups at the crag. Starts 20m right of RRH just right of ugly black groove. Step across vast chasm onto wall (FH) and up right side of groove on big jugs past two more FHs and then easy juggy crack finish. Rap anchor

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert

20Sport 18m, 7 . 1 years ago

funny how a couple of bolts turn an ok route into a way better one!!

. 3 years ago

Bouldery little nugget.

5 * Anatomica

Starts in chasm.

FA: Ingvar

27Sport 15m . 1 years ago

The definition of a one mover. Interesting none the less

6 ** Red Right Hand

Left leaning overhung crackline about 5m right of 'Super Mario Bros'. Neil took a groundfall attempting the first ascent ground up. Two very hard cruxes on polished perfect rock. A trad classic for those with the skills. Chain lower off.

FA: Gareth Llewillin; Gareth Llewellin

26Trad 16m Gareth Llewellin 10 years ago

3rd shot overall 2nd day hard crux, might be 26

Neil Monteith

Very hard crack route on perfect rock. Bloody jams and a big dyno!

7 *** Super Mario Bros

The famous crazy jump. Prominent hanging arete on right side of 'The Tower' with immaculate rock. This was the first of the 'new' routes to get attention. Stickclip third bolt and leap across to thread hold from the pinnacle opposite. It's about 3m horizontal! The climbing gets easier the higher you get. Double bolt lower off.

FA: Kent Paterson & Neil Monteith, 2003

25Sport 25m adam demmert 2 years ago

Ridiculous, good fun

Neil Monteith 7 years ago

Flying through the air with the greatest of ease. 3rd shot.

8 *** Super Mario Bros Direct Start

Avoid the big dyno by starting on the cairn down low. Stick clip first bolt then boulder up the unlikely steep corner and through roof to reach big jugs and join into original route. Burly.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2005

27Sport 20m Phil Neville 4 years ago

whata route!! Just missed it 2nd go, should do it next time.

Neil Monteith 9 years ago

I had a play whilst Mlaoclm rested between redpoint attempts. I did all the moves!

9 *** Super Gadget

Links the best bits of 'The Tower' into one enduro mega pitch. Start as for Super Mario Direct and connect up to 'Inspector Gadget' Pitch 2 via undercling flake (2 FHs).

FA: HB

28Sport 35m . 3 years ago

Amazing. One of the best in da gramps.

10 * King Features

The big girdle traverse of the left leading horizontal crack feature which splits the main wall. Start at ground level right of Toar

and finish at chains on Iron Arms. Bring lots of cams, slings and body protection.

FA: Neil Monteith Jono Schmidt, 2005

22Trad 30m Will Monks 6 years ago

started up see the light. perfect warmup

jono schmidt 9 years ago

grovel through the massive horizontal break at the start and desperately search for any good gear...

11 Malcolm's Finger Crack 29Trad 18m
12 * BMX Bandits

Squeezed in but still top stuff! An awesome faint arête and corner system on super quality rock. An alternate second pitch of 'Inspector Gadget'. Belay in cave as for the end of Inspector Gadget's first pitch. Clip first BR on IG then launch directly up to FH. Battle upwards on slopers, dishes and the occasional ledge past a further two FH's. Finish up small corner (to finish at double RB belay/lower-off.

FA: Kent Paterson Jono Schimdt; kent paterson, jono schimdt, 2005

24Sport 18m, 8 Neil Monteith 9 years ago

Bloody reachy crux. Sustained and awesome moves. Super quality rock.

. 9 years ago

cool subtle arete/ groove.

13 ** Toar Pitch 1

A cool boulder problem off the deck. A very suspicious grade considering Malcolm Matheson, Adam Demmert and Neil Monteith played on this for several years without success. Suits tall climbers with strong fingers. Equipped by Neil in 2003.

Start: Start 10m right of Terror of the Sea.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2008

27Sport 20m, 5 . 1 years ago

A candinate for chipping if there ever was one. Stupidly hard and frustrating two mover. Rest i...

Neil Monteith 7 years ago

7th day of attempts over 3 years. No progress.

14 * Toar Pitch 2

Exposed face climbing. Belay at single giant U-bolt just left of fridge sized bird-poo

stained hanging 'death' block (5m right of Terror of the Sea's first pitch). Climb cautiously onto block. From block climb faint crack directly above onto exposed face and up this past two FH's to juggy finish. An alternative which avoids the hanging block is to start as for 'BMX Bandits' for two bolts then traverse left into the crack

line. Double rap rings for descent.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2005

23Sport 20m, 2 . 1 years ago

Yep, the 2nd pitches are great on this wall.

Neil Monteith 9 years ago

5 attempts before sucess. Scary death block mantle. Upper wall is pumpy slopers!

15 *** Inspector Gadget

A very height dependent grade and a killer line right up the centre of the main wall. Pitch 1 18m 24 - Starts up Terror of the Sea to 2nd BR. Instead of traversing left go straight up past another BR and 2 FH's. Traverse right across slab to last FH and then to single u bolt loweroff or traverse further right to cave and belay on #3.5 camalot, big nut and #2 friend. Pitch 2 20m 22 - Step right from cave and up amazing sustained orange

FA: kp and tim le

24Sport 40m Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Not a great warm down! Burly and runout.

Will Monks 6 years ago

[2] 39C send

16 * Terror of the Sea Pitch 2

From end of pitch 1 cave swing right past two RBs to very exposed prow and natural gear. Step left and up flakes (RB) and surmount rooflet to grey juggy wall. Up this for 6m to rap anchor on ledge. Has been led as one giant pitch. Bring some medium/large cams on the first pitch and some smaller gear for the second pitch.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

22Sport 20m . 9 years ago

crimpy crux. Really fun pitch.

Neil Monteith 10 years ago

Crazy exposure - very airy. First shot.

17 *** Terror of the Sea Pitch 1

Immaculate rock and a very tough crux if you're short. Central line about 10m right of Popeyed. Over rooflet (BR) and up juggy wall (BR) to horizontal break and rooflet. Up and left past BR and two FHs to mantle onto ledge. Run it out up white marble pockets past BR to belay anchor in cave.

FA: Neil Monteith

25Sport 20m Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Did crux via Ross method, but conditions got worse and couldn't repoint. This is 25. Don't believ...

Phil Neville 4 years ago

gaylord on the flash... lame! 2nd shot.

18 *** Thundercats (project) 26Trad 20m Neil Monteith 2 years ago

KP's new start is great - crux is still hard

. 3 years ago

The tower spits out another gem.

19 *** See The Light

FA: kp and the millers falls superdrill !

22Sport 27m, 10 Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

Wandery and a bit ledgy but great moves and stellar rock between. Carrots mid crux suck.

Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Repeat. Airy, exciting Grampians magic

20 *** Popeye 23Trad 35m Will Monks 9 years ago

Pumpy to place/clean pro but no 23 moves

Neil Monteith 9 years ago

Great climbing with excellent gear. More like grade 22. 3.1.2005 - Seconded Malcolm...

21 * Popeye - Iron Arms link up

best warm up for cliff.

FA: kp

21Trad 15m Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

A deadpoint crux for short. Happy about cave.

adam demmert 2 years ago

Good little warm up!

22 ** Iron Arms 24Trad 18m Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

Dont know why tall people are having so much problems- technical but good feet if over 173 cm

Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Repeat. Still a great route, probably better now you don't have to whittle in trad!

23 * Iron Arms Pitch 2

Steps right from chain and follows thin crack heading slightly right to finish up juggy headwall on spaced gear. Rap off sling.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2003

20Trad 20m Neil Monteith 10 years ago

Exposed thin face. Pumpy at finish.

24 Goil

Very obscure. 'Small' south facing grey wall on boulder about 100m below the north-west end of the Tower. Start is marked by cairn. Up overhung juggy crack to start then onwards up slopers and faint corner with spaced good gear. Crux move in corner near end. Rap off tree leaning against boulder to descend.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt, 2003

22Trad 12m jono schmidt 10 years ago

hmmmm...average. also very tough. a depserate lead on shitty pro and shitty holds. not worth r...

Neil Monteith 11 years ago

Tricky gear. Steep than it looks

25 Olive Oyl

The easy option when everything else is too hard! Nice jug hauling spoilt by a dirty halfway ledge. Starts about 80m right of Popeyed and in centre of south facing wall on a separate buttress behind 'Wellington Wimpy'. Up left facing flake to vegetated ledge. Swing up overhung wall above trending left to bollard belay.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt, 2003

19Trad 20m . 9 years ago

Gpt pumped on a 19. Poor form.

Phil Neville 10 years ago

Very average with poor rock and average moves. Nice position though.

26 ** Malcolm's Crack (Closed Project)

FA: Equipped Malcolm Matheson, 2004

Trad 20m
27 * Prince Of Persia

Once referred to as a link up, it has been bolted & renamed as its a really good warm up. Start at orange pocketed rock and climb a left veering line. Joins iron arms at 3rd FH.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2005

21Sport 15m, 5 . 1 years ago

Good warm up.

adam demmert 2 years ago

Good retick of a good warm up

28 Project (Closed)

Climb grey streak passing 5 FH's to lower offs.

Start: Start as for Choda Boy

Sport 20m
29 ** Iron Arms Pitch 1

Taipan style! Starts 5m left of Popeyed at scoopy overhung wall. Technical climbing up scoop past three FHs leads to jugs and cave rest. Blast up reachy wall above past last FH and head left to chain.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2003

24Sport 20m, 6
30 ** Thundercats

Start at Popeyed. Stickclip first bolt then make a very cool & unlikely rightwards traverse across face. Follow line of steel up lovely dark orange rock to anchor.

FA: Equipped Neil Monteith '07, 2000

FA: Climbed inby KP., 2010

26Sport 25m, 8 adam demmert 2 years ago

Hard tick on a 35°+ with a north wind day

31 * Looper

Crazy arete on block.

FA: kp, hammert time, 2012

26Sport 15m, 5 . 1 years ago

Bound to be a cult classic!!!

32 Grease Me Up Laddie

Ungradeable. Squeeze into slot under 'Super Mario Bros' (50m right of Popeyed). Squirm your way through to the other side of 'The Tower' heading for the light. Finish in the bouldering cave.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt (no torches), 2003

Trad 70m

1.19. The Crater 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Rush of Blood to the Head

FA: Malcolm matheson Neil Monteith, 2004

27Trad 10m . 1 years ago

Really fun with a rubiks cube 3d finish. I'll be back!!

Neil Monteith 9 years ago

Crazy roof - had to give it to HB as it was too hard for poor old me. 22.2.2004. Tried again 15.6...

2 Ground Force

FA: Neil Monteith Kent Paterson, 2003

20Trad 14m Neil Monteith 10 years ago

Kent took groundfall from top when abseil anchor failed.

3 ** Isolation

FA: Neil Monteith, Jacqui Middelton, Kent Paterson, 2003

23Trad 20m . 10 years ago

brilliant the whole way. Pity it feels like slippery carapiles rock!!

Neil Monteith 10 years ago

Arapiles style orange face. Perfect rock. One of my best FFAs

1.20. Possum Rocks 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 One More Line 14Trad 20m Neil Monteith 10 years ago

Dirty start - flaky finish. Jono loved this one. His quote "absolute mega classic"

jono schmidt 10 years ago

the kind of line neil likes to put his name against...i'm ashamed to say i followed him up. it d...

2 * Once More for the Paparazzi

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

V2Boulder 6m Phil Neville 7 years ago

Fun

Neil Monteith 9 years ago

Great roof problem with crux as last move.

3 Ka-prow V1Boulder Phil Neville 7 years ago

Short problem straight up the prow

4 *** Comfortably Numb

FA: Chris Abernethy, 2006

V7Boulder Phil Neville 7 years ago

Awesome long prolem (20 moves?) with a very hard lock in the middle.

5 ** Prowler V4Boulder Phil Neville 7 years ago

Super good traverse with some big moves.

6 ** Climbing's new Glamour Couple V4Boulder Phil Neville 7 years ago

Very hard first move, then more bouldery fun.

1.21. The Catacombs 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (nmonteith)

An area hidden away about 200m north west of the Tower. This area contains several quality walls facing in all directions. Quite a bit of new route potential exists. There are two incomplete projects in this area as well.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From Billabong Boy (Peasants Wall area) walk up hill (north) behind this route to a worthless gray juggy wall. Walk right along base of this until you can walk up a vegetated gully with an impressive 'Arapiles' style bulging wall on your left. The first route starts here. A single bolt rap anchor exists above Chimney Slot 'Thing'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Stakes And Ladders

Weaves around to get up this pleasant wall. Starts 20m left of Wrapped In Pain, just left of scungy looking chimney slot thing. Full rack required + additional slings

FA: Adam Demmert, Cath & Neil, 2007

19Trad 20m Neil Monteith 7 years ago

2nded Adams ground up FFA. Nice route - but needs a brushing down low.

2 * Wrapped in Pain

Located on north facing main wall with a large scooped base.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

24Mixed 20m, 3 Neil Monteith 9 years ago

Great long moves down low and easish trad finish. Took me many attempts to stick the lower underc...

3 * Slow Torture

Technical face and seam climbing with spaced small trad gear. Great rock.

Start: Starts 3m left of 'Maggot Ridden'.

FA: Adam Demmert, 2004

22Trad 15m Neil Monteith 7 years ago

The sport trad rack didn't cut it for this. I was gripped and lacking good gear most of the way u...

Gareth Llewellin 9 years ago

2nd'd 1st Asc

4 * Maggot Ridden

West side of entrance to the 'Slow Torture' 'Gully' which is 50m west of 'Wrapped in Pain'. Worthwhile despite the name.

FA: Neil Monteith Gareth Llewellin Adam Demmert, 2004

18Trad 15m jono schmidt 9 years ago

ok i guess. a nice little wander up an arete with good gear and good jugs.

Neil Monteith 9 years ago

Good despite the name. Groudn up first ascent. Nice arete.

5 Kent's Abandonded Project 24Trad 20m Neil Monteith 9 years ago

A bit mossy but some cool moves. I took some nasty falls on this when i forgot it wasn't a sport ...

6 Fly Grave

The giant flake on the wall between 'Slow Torture' and 'Skullcracker'. Gain the ledge below this flake by starting 8m right at weakness through rooflet (route was attempted direct but was abandoned when no pro and grade 23+ roof moves were encountered). Walk across sledge and then up nice orange wall until holds run out, look behind to see the big flake, stem onto it and jug easily on ledge. Up left to finish.

FA: Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert & Cath, 2007

16Trad 25m Neil Monteith 7 years ago

Ground up FFA. Extreme novelty flake stemming!

7 Skullcracker

Scoops to flake crack then onwards to inverted ceiling. Place vital small cam in slot and swing downwards on horn jug (FH) and over lip to juggy face. Up this face (two FH¹s and sling horns) to clip-and-go lower-off.

Start: Start 20m left of "Slow Torture".

FA: Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert, Rich Ham & Jono Schimdt, 2005

22Mixed 20m, 3 jono schmidt 9 years ago

the roof scared me but it wasn't so hard after all and i should have gone back for the red point.

Neil Monteith 9 years ago

Cool inverted roof moves on trad gear.

8 Knights Duel

Very featured crack directly opposite "Skullcracker" with nice jugs to finish.

FA: Anita Sharman & Rich Ham, 2005

12Trad 20m
9 * Fire Breathing Dragon

The first crack 1m from the arete on the left side of the wall as you walk into the 'Slow Torture' gully. Tricky roof move with nice crack to finish.

FA: Anita Sharman, Rich Ham & Neil Monteith, 2005

15Trad 20m Neil Monteith 9 years ago

Nice steep jug-fest

10 Rich's Face 20Trad 15m
11 * Walking The Void / Adam Fingercrack

The middle crack. Stick place the first wire(easy to do), step across the void, couple of hard moves lead to a rest, then waltz up the crack heading up the left branch where the crack forks and steepens. Pumpy last moves to good jugs. Abseil from sling.

FA: Adam Demmert, 2005

23Trad 13m
12 Hudson's Training Route / Adam Sandbag

The right crack. Stick place the first wire(easy to do), step across the gap, then blast up the crack pumping out placing gear. At small roof head up and left. Abseil off fixed sling above Walking the Void.

FA: Adam Demmert, 2005

20Trad 14m
13 A Sling And A Prayer

Bolted by Kent in the pouring rain using a manky sling as a harness. Hangers were recycled from one of Brookies past glories at Camels Hump. Route was abandoned to the elements for three years and finally climbed by Neil.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

24Mixed 15m, 2

1.22. Peasant Wall 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Billabong Boy 24Trad 10m adam demmert 9 years ago

hard onsight

. 9 years ago

nearly popped off the headpoint. Eeekkk !!

1.23. Sunny Boy Block 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sunny Boy 24Trad 10m . 9 years ago

the taxmans taken all my dough and left me in my state let home lazing on a sunny afternoon....

Neil Monteith 9 years ago

Suprisingly sustained. Desperate slab finish when you don't know the holds!

1.24. Cave of Man Hands 11 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

All info from Vertical Life's mini guide: www.verticallifemag.com.au/2012/04/video-cave-of-man-hands/

Approach:

To get to the Cave park at Manja Shelter on the Harrop Track, which is just south of the turn off to Buandik Campground. Follow the walking track east, after about five minutes it will start to bend south, shortly afterwards there should be a very faint track that continues east. Follow this until you hit the base of a rocky escarpment. Clamber over the escarpment and continue a further five minutes, until just below the main cliff. Now, look down and to the left, you should behold the well-hidden Cave of Man Hands (but it can be a little tricky).

History:

Discovered winter 2011, the Cave of Man Hands offers some superb new bouldering in a beautiful setting, with only a short walk in. Most problems were put up by Simon Weill, with a couple of additions by Dr Julian Saunders and Ross Taylor.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hands Down

Sit start.

V6Boulder
2 Hands Up

Sit start.

V5Boulder
3 Hand Out

Sit start, scary top out.

V6Boulder
4 Julesy’s Problem V9Boulder
5 Hand Solo

Start in the far left of the cave and work your way right before finishing up a combination of Manhandled and Cold Hands.

V11Boulder
6 * Underhanded Tactics

Head straight up the obvious flakes to a hard and high finish.

V8Boulder
7 ** Manhandled

Hard climbing with a powerful and shouldery crux.

V11Boulder
8 ** Cold Hands, Cold Heart

Fantastic moves using some really interesting holds. Tough Start.

V9Boulder
9 * Dos Manos

Easy climbing leads to a couple of hard moves on slopey holds.

V11Boulder
10 ** The Sound of One Man Hand Clapping

Easy climbing to a dynamic and reachy section through a blank looking roof. Cut loose and prosper.

V11Boulder
11 * The Pummelling

Follows the obvious rib to a tricky finish.

V4Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
6 Puppy Love Trad 12m 1.3. Mother Buttress
Top Gun Trad 10m 1.3. Mother Buttress
8 Spanking Trad 10m 1.3. Mother Buttress
Silver Service Slab Trad 8m 1.7. The Lego Blocks
Vukovar Trad 10m 1.15.1. Pygmy Terrace
9 Consequential Trad 10m 1.15.1. Pygmy Terrace
Timor Trad 19m 1.15.1. Pygmy Terrace
10 Padam Padam Trad 12m 1.7. The Lego Blocks
Blackberry Nip Trad 40m 1.11. Rain Wall
Plain English Trad 18m 1.11. Rain Wall
Silence And Speed Trad 10m 1.15.1. Pygmy Terrace
Lager Trad 70m 1.17. Billywing Buttress
Peek A Boo Trad 18m 1.17. Billywing Buttress
12 Aladdin's Cave Trad 40m 1.4. The Studio
Repo Boofhead Trad 8m 1.7. The Lego Blocks
Time In Memorial Trad 9m 1.14. Millennium Caves
Praying Mantis Trad 40m 1.17. Billywing Buttress
The Big Mammu Trad 45m 1.17. Billywing Buttress
Knights Duel Trad 20m 1.21. The Catacombs
13 Manufacturing Consent Trad 30m 1.4. The Studio
Dark Caravan Trad 30m 1.10. Quartz Block
Broken English Trad 10m 1.11. Rain Wall
Drain Pipe Trad 22m 1.11. Rain Wall
Gutter Talk Trad 10m 1.11. Rain Wall
The Jig Is Up Trad 12m 1.15.1. Pygmy Terrace
Elise Trad 16m 1.16.1. Family Wall
14 The Dude Trad 25m 1.6. Pinnacle Of Achievement
Mon Dieu Trad 10m 1.7. The Lego Blocks
Dark Side Of The Wall Trad 40m 1.11. Rain Wall
Time Out Trad 10m 1.14. Millennium Caves
Matilda Trad 16m 1.16.1. Family Wall
Half Burnt Match Trad 50m 1.17. Billywing Buttress
Keeyuga Unknown 15m 1.17. Billywing Buttress
One More Line Trad 20m 1.20. Possum Rocks
15 Arrow Head Trad 15m 1.2. The Buandik Boulder
X Marks The Spot Trad 30m 1.11. Rain Wall
Workaholics Trad 12m 1.15.1. Pygmy Terrace
Acting The Goat Trad 40m 1.17. Billywing Buttress
Goanna Trad 15m 1.17. Billywing Buttress
* Fire Breathing Dragon Trad 20m 1.21. The Catacombs
16 Quilled End Trad 17m 1.2. The Buandik Boulder
Target Area Trad 15m 1.2. The Buandik Boulder
The Sir Nicholas Hasluck Memorial Slab Climb Trad 25m 1.4. The Studio
The Educator Sport 12m, 3 1.9. The Gallery
Uknown Easy Sport Route Trad 14m 1.10. Quartz Block
Sally's Route Trad 40m 1.11. Rain Wall
Stress Shared Trad 12m 1.15.1. Pygmy Terrace
Triangle Fridge Trad 14m 1.15.1. Pygmy Terrace
Finger Buckets Trad 18m 1.17. Billywing Buttress
Stick Lizard Unknown 12m 1.17. Billywing Buttress
Fly Grave Trad 25m 1.21. The Catacombs
17 Quangos Trad 15m 1.2. The Buandik Boulder
Ski School Instructor Trad 16m 1.6. Pinnacle Of Achievement
Domestic Violence Trad 18m 1.11. Rain Wall
The Web Trad 17m 1.11. Rain Wall
Bucketing Compost Trad 18m 1.12. Cultivation Crag
Yerba Mate Trad 18m 1.15.1. Pygmy Terrace
Greyhounds In Space Trad 20m 1.16.2. Norman Neve Momorial Wall
Terminal Cough Trad 20m 1.16.2. Norman Neve Momorial Wall
The Good, The Bad, And The Norman Trad 20m 1.16.2. Norman Neve Momorial Wall
Shitty Plastic In Cars Trad 20m 1.17. Billywing Buttress
Stout Trad 70m 1.17. Billywing Buttress
Strawman Trad 18m 1.17. Billywing Buttress
18 Joan Trad 26m 1.4. The Studio
Shop Assestant From Hell Trad 25m 1.6. Pinnacle Of Achievement
Searching For PB Trad 35m 1.10. Quartz Block
* Dargorlad Trad 25m 1.13.4. Mordor
* Mount Doom Trad 35m 1.13.4. Mordor
Condor Capers Trad 21m 1.15.1. Pygmy Terrace
Curse Of The Vampire Goldfish Mixed 20m, 1 1.15.1. Pygmy Terrace
Bitter Trad 70m 1.17. Billywing Buttress
Mundarnin Trad 18m 1.17. Billywing Buttress
Shut The Fuck Up! Unknown 20m 1.17. Billywing Buttress
* Maggot Ridden Trad 15m 1.21. The Catacombs
19 * Early Riser Trad 25m 1.3. Mother Buttress
High In The Saddle Trad 12m 1.3. Mother Buttress
Split Decision Trad 25m 1.3. Mother Buttress
Don't Make My Fat Wobble Trad 10m 1.7. The Lego Blocks
La Vie En Rose Trad 15m 1.7. The Lego Blocks
Secret Squirrels Trad 12m 1.8. The Sheltered Workshop
Cave Clan Trad 19m 1.10. Quartz Block
Killdozer Diagonal Trad 35m 1.10. Quartz Block
She Moves In Mysterious Ways Trad 17m 1.11. Rain Wall
Pigs Trad 18m 1.12. Cultivation Crag
Blabber Mouth Trad 12m 1.14. Millennium Caves
Chapped Lips Trad 14m 1.14. Millennium Caves
Not Chewing Gum Trad 14m 1.15.1. Pygmy Terrace
Eats Dogs And Children Trad 35m 1.16.1. Family Wall
Roadside Arete Trad 10m 1.16.1. Family Wall
Roadside Arete Trad 10m 1.16.2. Norman Neve Momorial Wall
Please Shut Up Trad 18m 1.17. Billywing Buttress
Walking Under Strictest Secrecy Trad 18m 1.17. Billywing Buttress
Olive Oyl Trad 20m 1.18. The Tower
Stakes And Ladders Trad 20m 1.21. The Catacombs
V1 Ka-prow Boulder 1.20. Possum Rocks
20 Blunted Enthusiasm Trad 25m 1.3. Mother Buttress
* Mad Dash Sport 20m, 8 1.3. Mother Buttress
Jeff Trad 26m 1.4. The Studio
Burn The Furniture Trad 18m 1.12. Cultivation Crag
Transcendental Irrigation Trad 19m 1.12. Cultivation Crag
All Around My Hat Trad 30m 1.13.3. Nearby Crag
* Close At Hand Trad 25m 1.13.3. Nearby Crag
Kidney Stoned Sport 18m 1.14. Millennium Caves
Oxford Comma Sport 10m, 3 1.14. Millennium Caves
Christopher Trad 16m 1.16.1. Family Wall
Big Nose N Barge Arse Go Bouldering Trad 18m 1.17. Billywing Buttress
* Honey Pot Trad 12m 1.17. Billywing Buttress
* Iron Arms Pitch 2 Trad 20m 1.18. The Tower
* Wellington Wimpy Sport 18m, 7 1.18. The Tower
Ground Force Trad 14m 1.19. The Crater
Hudson's Training Route Trad 14m 1.21. The Catacombs
Rich's Face Trad 15m 1.21. The Catacombs
V2 * Once More for the Paparazzi Boulder 6m 1.20. Possum Rocks
21 Boxed Set Trad 15m 1.5. Buffoon Block
Fantasy Ridge Trad 18m 1.6. Pinnacle Of Achievement
Je Ne Regrette Rien Trad 20m 1.7. The Lego Blocks
Azusi Sport 6 1.9. The Gallery
Cold Shower Trad 25m 1.10. Quartz Block
While Mick Snores Trad 37m 1.10. Quartz Block
Flash Flood Mixed 33m, 3 1.11. Rain Wall
To The Point Trad 14m 1.14. Millennium Caves
East Across The Pampas Trad 40m 1.15.1. Pygmy Terrace
Glad To See The Boat Trad 12m 1.15.1. Pygmy Terrace
* Popeye - Iron Arms link up Trad 15m 1.18. The Tower
* Prince Of Persia Sport 15m, 5 1.18. The Tower
22 I Need My Mother Trad 12m 1.3. Mother Buttress
Going Blank Again Sport 17m, 6 1.9. The Gallery
** The Perfect Crime Sport 15m, 6 1.9. The Gallery
Lightning Crack Trad 25m 1.10. Quartz Block
*** Portrait Of An Urban Badger Trad 19m 1.10. Quartz Block
** Rain on the Brain Mixed 50m, 2 1.11. Rain Wall
* SheLob's Lair Sport 40m, 13 1.13.4. Mordor
Reckless Mind Mixed 15m, 3 1.14. Millennium Caves
Remedy Trad 15m 1.15.2. Goat Wall
** Squat Or Rot Trad 25m 1.17. Billywing Buttress
Goil Trad 12m 1.18. The Tower
* King Features Trad 30m 1.18. The Tower
*** See The Light Sport 27m, 10 1.18. The Tower
* Terror of the Sea Pitch 2 Sport 20m 1.18. The Tower
Skullcracker Mixed 20m, 3 1.21. The Catacombs
* Slow Torture Trad 15m 1.21. The Catacombs
23 ** Chain of Fools Sport 15m 1.9. The Gallery
*** Weaveworld Sport 25m 1.9. The Gallery
Wendy Trad 15m 1.13.1. Red Cave
Switchback Trad 35m 1.13.2. Fawlty Towers
* The Floating Cloud Sport 15m, 5 1.14. Millennium Caves
* Verdensrom Trad 15m 1.14. Millennium Caves
* Domino Trad 35m 1.17. Billywing Buttress
** Slapdance Mixed 25m, 1 1.17. Billywing Buttress
Donkey Kong Jnr Sport 10m, 4 1.18. The Tower
*** Popeye Trad 35m 1.18. The Tower
* Toar Pitch 2 Sport 20m, 2 1.18. The Tower
** Isolation Trad 20m 1.19. The Crater
* Walking The Void Trad 13m 1.21. The Catacombs
V4 ** Climbing's new Glamour Couple Boulder 1.20. Possum Rocks
** Prowler Boulder 1.20. Possum Rocks
* The Pummelling Boulder 1.24. Cave of Man Hands
24 Oh, Hum Trad 30m 1.4. The Studio
* Bang, Bang You're Dead! Sport 13m, 4 1.9. The Gallery
** Two Tribes Sport 15m 1.9. The Gallery
I'd Rather Be A Biscuit Trad 18m 1.11. Rain Wall
Scorched Earth Trad 60m 1.11. Rain Wall
** Duelling Imans Trad 40m 1.13.3. Nearby Crag
* Living With Sister Sport 10m, 5 1.14. Millennium Caves
** Nomads Saints and Indians Halfway Trad 10m 1.14. Millennium Caves
** Nomads to 5th bolt Sport 14m, 5 1.14. Millennium Caves
Unknown Sport 7m, 3 1.14. Millennium Caves
* Cornered Trad 20m 1.17. Billywing Buttress
* BMX Bandits Sport 18m, 8 1.18. The Tower
*** Inspector Gadget Sport 40m 1.18. The Tower
** Iron Arms Trad 18m 1.18. The Tower
** Iron Arms Pitch 1 Sport 20m, 6 1.18. The Tower
* Zelda Sport 20m 1.18. The Tower
A Sling And A Prayer Mixed 15m, 2 1.21. The Catacombs
Kent's Abandonded Project Trad 20m 1.21. The Catacombs
* Wrapped in Pain Mixed 20m, 3 1.21. The Catacombs
* Billabong Boy Trad 10m 1.22. Peasant Wall
Sunny Boy Trad 10m 1.23. Sunny Boy Block
24 M0 Rain Dance Mixed 3 1.11. Rain Wall
24 M1 The Water Line Aid 80m 1.11. Rain Wall
25 ** Seven Diamond Experience Trad 30m 1.4. The Studio
Hueco Dreaming Sport 9m 1.9. The Gallery
* Mr Meat Sport 24m 1.9. The Gallery
Mr Meat - Weaveworld Sport 20m 1.9. The Gallery
* Texas Nightmare Sport 12m 1.9. The Gallery
Shattering Reflections Of Climbing Ability Mixed 15m, 3 1.14. Millennium Caves
* Sniffing Petrol Sport 15m, 5 1.14. Millennium Caves
Wayne's World Trad 18m 1.17. Billywing Buttress
*** Super Mario Bros Sport 25m 1.18. The Tower
*** Terror of the Sea Pitch 1 Sport 20m 1.18. The Tower
V5 Hands Up Boulder 1.24. Cave of Man Hands
26 Platinium Development Trad 30m 1.4. The Studio
* Chasin the Tribe Sport 15m 1.9. The Gallery
** Gorilla Tactics Sport 15m 1.9. The Gallery
** Mr Meat - Weaveworld - Chain Of Fools Sport 16m 1.9. The Gallery
* Pigs In a Blanket Sport 15m 1.9. The Gallery
* Have a Nice Day Trad 10m 1.13.1. Red Cave
* Five Spice Trad 10m 1.14. Millennium Caves
** Labyrinths Sport 15m 1.14. Millennium Caves
** Velocity of Time Sport 15m 1.14. Millennium Caves
* Choda Boy Sport 17m, 5 1.18. The Tower
* Looper Sport 15m, 5 1.18. The Tower
** Red Right Hand Trad 16m 1.18. The Tower
** Thundercats Sport 25m, 8 1.18. The Tower
*** Thundercats (project) Trad 20m 1.18. The Tower
V6 Hand Out Boulder 1.24. Cave of Man Hands
Hands Down Boulder 1.24. Cave of Man Hands
27 * Fingers Become Thumbs Sport 20m, 7 1.1. Little Hands Cave
*** Chasin' the Shadow Sport 15m 1.9. The Gallery
Koala - Monkey Puzzle Direct Sport 15m 1.9. The Gallery
* Fat and Sassy Sport 15m, 3 1.14. Millennium Caves
* Anatomica Sport 15m 1.18. The Tower
*** Super Mario Bros Direct Start Sport 20m 1.18. The Tower
** Toar Pitch 1 Sport 20m, 5 1.18. The Tower
* Rush of Blood to the Head Trad 10m 1.19. The Crater
V7 *** Comfortably Numb Boulder 1.20. Possum Rocks
28 ** Steel on Steel Sport 12m, 6 1.1. Little Hands Cave
*** Monkey Puzzle Sport 22m 1.9. The Gallery
*** Shadow Death Sport 17m 1.9. The Gallery
Smokin Monkey Sport 1.9. The Gallery
** Super Delux Sport 25m 1.9. The Gallery
** The Black Gate Sport 37m, 15 1.13.4. Mordor
* Bwana Sport 9m, 2 1.14. Millennium Caves
** Tunnel to Caracas Sport 15m, 5 1.14. Millennium Caves
*** Super Gadget Sport 35m 1.18. The Tower
29 ** Raise The Bar Sport 10m 1.1. Little Hands Cave
* Substance D Sport 10m 1.1. Little Hands Cave
Chasin The Monkey Sport 1.9. The Gallery
* Evil D Sport 25m 1.9. The Gallery
** Le Petit Mort Sport 20m 1.9. The Gallery
* Like a Koala in His Eucalyptus Sport 20m 1.9. The Gallery
Monkey Puzzle Direct Sport 20m 1.9. The Gallery
Monkey Puzzle Variant Start Sport 20m 1.9. The Gallery
*** Welcome to Barbados Trad 50m 1.13.1. Red Cave
** Nomads, Saints and Indians Sport 18m, 7 1.14. Millennium Caves
* Red Vinyl Trad 20m 1.14. Millennium Caves
** Shattering Reflections On Narcissism Sport 25m 1.14. Millennium Caves
** Tunnel Vision Sport 25m, 8 1.14. Millennium Caves
Malcolm's Finger Crack Trad 18m 1.18. The Tower
V8 * Underhanded Tactics Boulder 1.24. Cave of Man Hands
30 Bananas In Ya Pie Sport 20m 1.9. The Gallery
* A Girl ln Every Port Sport 1.14. Millennium Caves
*** Breathing Gasoline Trad 28m 1.14. Millennium Caves
V9 ** Cold Hands, Cold Heart Boulder 1.24. Cave of Man Hands
Julesy’s Problem Boulder 1.24. Cave of Man Hands
31 *** Strontium Dogs Sport 15m 1.1. Little Hands Cave
* Eat More Lard Sport 23m 1.14. Millennium Caves
32 ** Nicotine Sport 23m 1.9. The Gallery
* Dual Fuel Trad 20m 1.14. Millennium Caves
** Fire in da Belly Trad 25m 1.14. Millennium Caves
* What's an Aging Gigolo to Do Sport 25m 1.14. Millennium Caves
V11 * Dos Manos Boulder 1.24. Cave of Man Hands
Hand Solo Boulder 1.24. Cave of Man Hands
** Manhandled Boulder 1.24. Cave of Man Hands
** The Sound of One Man Hand Clapping Boulder 1.24. Cave of Man Hands
? Josh's Project Sport 1.1. Little Hands Cave
Project Sport 9m 1.14. Millennium Caves
Unknown Project Sport 12m 1.14. Millennium Caves
Grease Me Up Laddie Trad 70m 1.18. The Tower
** Malcolm's Crack (Closed Project) Trad 20m 1.18. The Tower
Project (Closed) Sport 20m 1.18. The Tower