Crag Guide for Buandik Area

Substance D

Bouldery number, 4th bolted route from right

Raise The Bar

Follow the amazing Prow. 3rd bolted line from right.

Strontium Dogs

Amazing line. 2nd from right

Steel on Steel

Obvious RH Line

Fingers Become Thumbs

Located near man habnds cave, opposite side of little hands. Destined to be an obscure classic.

Mad Dash

RBs up right side of wall. Slabby start, pumpy end finishing up right to anchors. 8 RBs.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

Early Riser

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2005

FA: Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert & KP, 2005

Split Decision

FA: Neil Monteith Kent Paterson, 2005

Seven Diamond Experience

FA: Neil Monteith, 2005

The Perfect Crime

Orange overhung arête 10m below and 20m left of the Gallery main cave. Ringbolts! Stick clip first bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

Start from the left end of the cave. 3m up (natural pro), cross right then straight up past 3 BRs. Belay in cave.

FA: Andrea Buchaver (Austria), 1992

Mr Meat

Fight your way through a selection of sharpish pillows to a blissful ramble.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991

Weaveworld

Classic pumping leads into a tricky traverse L to an exposed stance on the arete. Finish up on huge buckets.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Edwin Young, 1991

Chain of Fools

Navigate your way through the maze of chalk on some of the biggest holds you're ever likely to find at this grade. Easier than 'Weaveworld' and a popular "warmup".

FA: Richard Smith, Glenn Tempest, 1992

Two Tribes

Another fun jug-haul. Has a tricky section in the middle, but the real crux is past the last bolt, which is the same finish as 'Chain of Fools'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991

Evil D

Linkup el supremo. First 3 bolts on TT, move R acros CTS and LPM, join MP at fifth bolt. Finish up MP.

A good one to do when the crag is realy busy!

FA: Simon Carter,

Chasin the Tribe

Linkup of a more petite fashion.

No prizes for guessing which routes...

Chasin' the Shadow

It's 3 o'clock..tick tock..

A hard bouldery start, then it's a pumpy fight up and L to the same chain as the previous routes.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991

Shadow Death

FA: Nick Sutter,

Starts as CTS finishes up MP. Classic pumping.

FA: Nick Sutter, 2000

Le Petit Mort

Popular with the euros. Up the next line R to a big dyno. Finish off L in the cave.

FA: Helmut Nesadba, 1991

Nicotine

The RH finish to 'Le Petit Mort'. Keep on truckin' up the steep headwall after doind most of LPM. Some people start up Chasin' the 'Shadow' instead, but they are silly.

FA: Garth Miller, 1996

Monkey Puzzle

The line of the crag. Long steep pumper straight through the guts of the wall. To descend either; back-clean, lower off 'Nicotine' bolts (careful traversing over), or top out and untie (and leave your draws there for the next punter).

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

Line of bolts just R of MP, to join it at the lip. A bit of a squeeze job.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1998

Bouldery start into monkey puzzle.

Link 'Monkey' Direct into Koala

FA: Joshua Grose, 2007

Break off left after 3rd bolt of Koala into MPD.

Starts as koala, into monkey direct. Finishes as nicotine headwall. Power Endurance.

Like a Koala in His Eucalyptus

Rock isn't as good as the other routes here, but it has a couple interesting moves.

FA: Jean-Minh Trinh-Thieu, 1994

Gorilla Tactics

Really steep, but a few sneaky rests take the sting out a bit (if you find them).

Make sure your belayer is paying attention when you are clipping. It's not a serious route or a death route, but it could be messy.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

Pigs In a Blanket

Next line right of GT. Crux at the lip, so watch your back (as for previous route).

FA: Corinne Gwyther, 1998

Super Delux

Mega R to L traverse. Start in the back of the cave R of Pigs. Up through Pigs, cross GT at the 3rd bolt, pull the lip of Koala, move past MP and 'Nicotine', then finish as for LPM.

FA: Julian Saunders, 1998

One move wonder and a soft touch.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

Texas Nightmare

Not a one move wonder, and not a soft touch.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

Bang, Bang You're Dead!

Start just right of caves in gallery chasm. 4 U-bolts to lower off.

FA: Kent Patterson, 2006

Start 5m right of 'Bang, Bang You're Dead!'. Balancy start past U-bolt. 5 more FHs (last one is hidden) show the way to the anchor.

FA: Kent Patterson, 2006

Located on wall opposite the main Gallery cave. Climb obvious right facing wide corner or the face right of the corner passing one UB and two FH¹s. At the 2nd FH move right to doubly bolt lower off.

FA: Ben Hawthorne and Doug Williams,

The first line on the left end of 'Rain Wall', a right-leading diagonal crack, with start marked with a white square (already there at the time of the first recorded ascent)

FA: Jim Van Gelder, James Strohfeld, Neil Barr, 1983

Unusual climbing up the centre of the wall left of "Blackberry Nip".

FA: Greg and Sally Child, 1992

There are three diagonal lines right of "X Marks The Spot". Start below a small, curved roof. The line, stepping left at the top.

FA: Stephen Lake, Leigh Howes, 1983

Take double ropes.

Start: Start as for "Blackberry Nip".

FA: Edwin Young, 1992

Rain on the Brain

1. 25m (22) Upface directly below distinctive skull formation (2 BR) then bbig flake to semi-hanging belay from bolts in skull.

2. 25m (22) Up to BR. Traverse lip, BR, to left-leading diagonal crack. Up.

FA: Edwin Young, Michael Hampton (alt), 1992

May be substantially a repeat of "Sally's Route"

Start: start left of "Blackberry Nip" at the right-hand of 2 shallow cornere which face each other.

FA: Peter Campbell, Matt Darby, Michael Hampton, Edwin Young, 2000

Off block, up, 3 bolts, fixed wire to anchors above horizontal break. Third bolt used for aid. Rap off.

Start: Start 5 metres right of black streak.

FA: Ed Darling, Gareth Llewellyn, Simon, Gordon, 1997

Follow the steep crack in the left side of the cave, exiting through the same cave as "Welcome To Barbados".

FA: Simon Mentz, Malcolm Matheson, 1992

Welcome to Barbados

Large roof doesn't even come close to describing this.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, James Falla, Paul Hoskins, 1993

Have a Nice Day

Fun roof problem.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Paul Hoskins, 2000

The main roof, the upper of the two biggest roofs, on the north face of the peak.

FA: Malcom Matheson, Keith Lockwood, 1993

Close At Hand

Very fine, sustained bridging. This the left of two big corners on the cliff.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, 1989

Duelling Imans

Wild climbing high on the stacked corners just right of 'Close At Hand'. The slightly conrived start robs the climb of a second star.

Start 2 metres right of 'Close At Hand'.

FA: Parrish Robbins, Kieran Loughran, 1990

The big corner 20 metres right of Duelling Imams.

FA: Parrish Robbins, 1990

The Black Gate

Varied climbing amongst orange scoops, over zestful bulges, and up a quality headwall.

Start: Start off the ledge on the right side of the cliff (about 20m off the ground) where there are belay (FH) bolts.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

SheLob's Lair

Spectacular right hand arete.

Start: Start as per 'The Black Gate'.

1. 15m (22) Up 15m (7 bolts) and step right to rap anchors.

2. 25m (21) Right onto arete, pull the steep moves past the lair then enjoy the view. 35m abseil.

FA: Benjamin Storey, 2009

Dargorlad

Sustained, interesting, well protected but will need a bit more cleaning to become it's best.

Start: About in the middle of the cliff at ground level is an attractive well featured slabby looking wall.

FA: Josef Goding, 2008

Mount Doom

Good fun climbing - well protected

Start: At ground level near the left end of the cliff is an attractive crack.

FA: Josef Goding (P1), Ingvar Lidman (P2), 2008

Five Spice

Looks like a fun bit of steep thugging.

Start: This is the route on its own in the cave you get to before the main area.

FA: Stuart Wyithe,

Living With Sister

Careful on the runout finish.

Start: Start in the left of the main cave, a few metres left of Nomads.

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

Nomads, Saints and Indians

Roof climbers rave about this one. 'Steep' jugging to a few hard moves at the end. Unfortunately once again the bolt spacing warrants caution.

Start: Start down the very back of the left end of the main cave.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

Red Vinyl

Quite close to Nomads but it still looks great. The usual warning applies about having only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start: Start as for Nomads.

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

Breathing Gasoline

A very impressive line blasting out the biggest part of this massive overhang, on beautiful red stone. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start: Start as for Nomads.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

Tunnel to Caracas

Climbs the inside of the tunnel feature just R of Nomads. It looks a bit obscure but is very good.

Start: Start as for Nomads.

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

Tunnel Vision

Extension of TTC.

FA: Kent Paterson, early, 2009

Bwana

Boulderers will love this.

Start: Start about 8m R of Nomads.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

The Floating Cloud

Great rock and some nice moves, but it's a shame about the rest ledges ruining the middle section.

Start: Start at the R end of the wall at a well chalked low hanging prow.

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

Now retroed with 3 bolts and a rap anchor. It's best not to lower off the anchor because it's over the top and will probably trash your rope. Abseil or back jump.

Start: Start about 50m L of where you scramble up from the Main Cave.

FA: Julian Saunders (solo) 1990s, 2000

Shattering Reflections On Narcissism

Designed to be climbed as a quite scary sport route, but rumour has it there is the odd trad piece to sanitise it a little. No anchor...clean it how you wish! There is a piker's variant which goes at 27 by traversing a little higher than shown when you're about 15m into the traverse. Line 18a in the topo shows a grade 25 trad variant done by Matt Adams.

Start: Start on the boulder on the R edge of the huge cave, on the R side of the 2nd tier.

FA: Julian Saunders, 1997

Velocity of Time

Another great looking roof. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start: Start a few metres L of 'Labyrinths'.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1995

Labyrinths

The prime line through this gorgeous red-roofed cave. Possibly even 3 stars. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start: Start in the base of the cave.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1995

Maybe a bit contrived but still damn good fun. You'd be forgiven for thinking the route was named after the striking unusual kidney shaped plate of rock it follows. But by some bizarre and unfortunate coincidence, Bob happened to pass some actual kidney stones while sending it! Stretched urethra anyone? Ouccchhh!

Start: Start R of the cave.

FA: Bob Novellino, 1995

dual fuel

Dual Fuel? Jule Fuel? Who knows how it's meant to be spelt. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start: Start as for Nomads.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000

fire in da belly

A whole new route without a single extra bolt!

Start: Start as for 'Red Vinyl'.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000

Verdensrom

This beautifully coloured wall is unfortunately quite cruxy...but people still seem to like it.

Start: Start 5m R of Floating Cloud.

FA: some Czech dude, 2000

Nice. Follow the same line as 'Blabber Mouth' until it steepens then move diagonally left to finish.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

Eat More Lard

Looks like a pissy little link up but it was actually done before Aging 'Gigolo'.

Start: Start as for 'The Floating Cloud'

FA: Simon Atkins, 2000

take the obvious central line to where it steepens, with a hard move near the top.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

Up the face 1 metre left of 'Time In Memorial' to the horizonatl traverse left to the top.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

Nomads to 5th bolt

The best "moderate" route here.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

Sniffing Petrol

Pumpy fun for the kids who aren't up to 'Breathing Gasoline'. A good find as this cave is under-endowed in the 25-27 bracket.

Start: Start as for 'Breathing Gasoline'.

FA: Steve Chapman, 2010

Start as for 'Blabber Mouth' but move across the opening of the cave. Pull through overlap to finish.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

Starts in the middle of the wall off a flake. Straight up then veer left.

FA: Chris Lawrence, Geoff Butcher, 1991

The rounded arete just R of Floating Cloud

This gets a serious rating because it only has a single biner lower off. Make up your own mind whether to trust it.

Start: Start at the cute little orange face tucked away on a boulder just right of the walking track, approx 40m before you hit the 'Five Spice' cave.

FA: Kent Paterson, american Elliot, early, 2009

A red fixed hanger and a glue-reinforced flake can be found on this line.

Start: Start 10m L of 'Five Spice'

FA: Equipped by Sharik Walker?, 2000

What's an Aging Gigolo to Do

The other competitor for the most impressive line here, although it doesn't get as many stars. Yet to receive a 2nd ascent.

Start: Start near the lonely boulder about 15m R of 'Bwana'.

FA: Garth Miller, 2000

Short but action-packed crimpiness.

Start: Start 5m R of 'Reckless Mind'.

Fat and Sassy

One of three truly gobsmacking lines out to the very top of this humungous cave, but it takes some stuffing around to get started.

Start: Starts from the ledge above 'Bwana' (you can avoid actually climbing 'Bwana' by simply stick clipping it\'s anchor!).

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

The only climb positiviely identified and looks OK. Interesting traverse.

Start: Start at the righthand end of the upper terrace.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1992

Hard Start

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1992

Left arete from middle terrace

FA: Chris Lawrence (solo), 1991

Face 2 metres right of 'Timor'

FA: Chris Lawrence (solo), 1991

Face right of 'Vukovar'

FA: Chris Lawrence (solo), 1991

Layback, then face right of 'Consequential'

FA: Geoff Butcher (solo), 1991

Up from block right of 'Silence And Speed'.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1991

Face above block 1 metre right of 'Workaholics'.

FA: Chris Lawrence, Geoff Butcher, 1991

Crack 1 metre right of 'The Jig Is Up'

FA: Geoff Butcher, Chris Lawrence, 1991

Left under flake 4 metres right of 'Stress Shared' to juggy bulge. Left to finish.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1991

Poor protection. Corner, bulge, wall 1 metre right of 'Triangle Fridge'.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1991

Follow left-leaning crack at right end of cliff to arete. go around arete and along the main face.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1992

Prominent flake line 2 metres right of "Condor Capers". Hard start unless you're tall.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

Take the charcoal-black corner line in the middle of the wall. At horizontal break, move right up flake to finish.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

Steep with a go-for-it finish.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Stuart Imer, 1992

The left end of the slab on thin holds with virtually no protection.

FA: Garry wills, Greg davies, 1989

The face just right of where the crack splits the face.

FA: Peter Megens, Isa Davies, 1989

Go up at the right end of the face and through weakness in small bulge.

FA: Richard Evans, Dave Cherry, 1989

Unpleasant climbing

FA: Melanie and James McIntosh, 1991

Start on the north side of the pinnacle at the left end. Up to the left crack and on to the top on rounded holds.

FA: Dave Cherry, Richard evans, 1989

The right end of the north face. Up to the righthand crack and up it.

FA: Isa Davis, Peter Megens, 1989

Up the south side of the pinnacle.

FA: Garry wills, Greg davies, 1989

Follow the roadside arete on the left boulder and finish up a hand crack on the right.

FA: James and Melanie McIntosh, 1991

At the top of Green 'Gully' is a corner with a bouldery start.

FA: Peter Campbell, Rhyl Shaw, Michael Hampton, 1993

Climb the laid-back arete right of gully to finish through overlap.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Judy Grove, 1993

Technical seam 3 metres right of "Walking Under Strictest Secrecy" to easy finish.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1993

Squat Or Rot

Steep climbing on good holds. The obvious line a few metres right of "Domino"

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1994

Tricky start to the easiest of the three lines.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

Slapdance

Superb flake-line just right of "Cornered" (PR and FH) to ledge. Finish up overhanging corner.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Malcolm Matheson, 1993

Climb the centre of the wall. The fingery start eases to pleasant bucket hauling.

Start: Just inside the wider, central chasm is a steep wall on the left.

FA: Michael Hampton, Peter Campbell, 1993

Climb the front of the obvious rib between two chasms.

Start: There is a slender gum growing in front of the cliff.

FA: Peter Campbell, Michael Hampton (alt) and Rhyl Shaw, 1993

Cornered

Intricate bridging in sustained diagonal corner to a steep exit.

Start: Start on the terrace, at left side of wall.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Glenn Tempest, 1993

Climb the greyish rib on the right side of the most compact slab area. Continue easily up cracks and jugs.

FA: Michael Hampton (solo), 1993

Climb the orange wall to weakness in the dark rock above. Belay at ledge a few metres higher. Downclimb back of buttress into gully.

Start: Start a few metres right of the chossy black off-width.

FA: Peter Campbell, Stuart Imer, Michael Hampton, 1993

Start: Scramble up into the cave at base of bluff. Start from ramp at left end.

1. 20m (15) Climb the wall to gap at top left of cave. Pull on jugs to gain wall above. Continue to belay level with upper terrace.

2. 20m (-) Go up right and up the easy arete.

FA: Pitch 1: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher. Pitch 2 : Edwin Young, Kate Hilton (same day), 1994

Overhang then crack and wall on east end of "Wall Of Deceit", finishing right under the overhang.

FA: Michael Hampton, Peter Campbell, 1993

A bucket haul with a fun conclusion.

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1993

Start up "Shut The Fuck Up!" but continue up the steep arete on fantastic holds.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

Takes the centre of the face on block overlooking head of Green 'Gully'.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

As it was, soloed potential protection is unknown.

Start: Start at the left side of the slab, 5 metres right of the chasm.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Richard Smith (both solo), 1993

The crack above the start to the terrace access ramp

FA: Peter Campbell, Michael Hampton, 1993

The crack in the nose right of "Honey Pot".

FA: Peter Campbell, Michael Hampton, 1983

Domino

Thin line past grass clumps and on to a stance. Left up ramp to pull on to a hanging slab. Step awkwardly right and up to top.

Start: Start at the thin line just right of the dished overhang.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Greg Caire, 1994

Honey Pot

Another Buandik gem.

Start: Start at the head of the next chasm.

FA: Michael Hampton, Rhyl Shaw.(FTRA Peter Campbell), 1993

Excellent climbing up the nose at the gully intersection.

Start: Scramble up to the descent gully.

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1993

The groove right of "Stout" then continue all the way.

FA: Richard Smith (solo), 1993

Start: Start at the lovely clean crack 1m right of the black line forming

the black identifying chimney.

FA: Doig, Dionne Norgate, Erik ?,

FA: Glen Buchanan, Louise, 2001

Located on north east side of 'The Tower' and just right of giant chossy cave. Novelty sport climbing up blob holds. One very high first BR and two RB's lead to DRB lower off.

FA: Kent Paterson Neil Monteith, 2004

Choda Boy

Bouldery little number.

FA: Ingvar,

Zelda

Bouldery start, sustained crimpy middle. Lotsa bolts! Starts about 2m right of 'Wellington Wimpy'.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

Wellington Wimpy

One of the better warm-ups at the crag. Starts 20m right of RRH just right of ugly black groove. Step across vast chasm onto wall (FH) and up right side of groove on big jugs past two more FHs and then easy juggy crack finish. Rap anchor

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert,

Anatomica

Starts in chasm.

FA: Ingvar,

Red Right Hand

Left leaning overhung crackline about 5m right of 'Super Mario Bros'. Neil took a groundfall attempting the first ascent ground up. Two very hard cruxes on polished perfect rock. A trad classic for those with the skills. Chain lower off.

FA: Gareth Llewillin; Gareth Llewellin,

Super Mario Bros

The famous crazy jump. Prominent hanging arete on right side of 'The Tower' with immaculate rock. This was the first of the 'new' routes to get attention. Stickclip third bolt and leap across to thread hold from the pinnacle opposite. It's about 3m horizontal! The climbing gets easier the higher you get. Double bolt lower off.

FA: Kent Paterson & Neil Monteith, 2003

Super Mario Bros Direct Start

Avoid the big dyno by starting on the cairn down low. Stick clip first bolt then boulder up the unlikely steep corner and through roof to reach big jugs and join into original route. Burly.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2005

Super Gadget

Links the best bits of 'The Tower' into one enduro mega pitch. Start as for Super Mario Direct and connect up to 'Inspector Gadget' Pitch 2 via undercling flake (2 FHs).

FA: HB,

King Features

The big girdle traverse of the left leading horizontal crack feature which splits the main wall. Start at ground level right of Toar

and finish at chains on Iron Arms. Bring lots of cams, slings and body protection.

FA: Neil Monteith Jono Schmidt, 2005

BMX Bandits

Squeezed in but still top stuff! An awesome faint arête and corner system on super quality rock. An alternate second pitch of 'Inspector Gadget'. Belay in cave as for the end of Inspector Gadget's first pitch. Clip first BR on IG then launch directly up to FH. Battle upwards on slopers, dishes and the occasional ledge past a further two FH's. Finish up small corner (to finish at double RB belay/lower-off.

FA: Kent Paterson Jono Schimdt; kent paterson, jono schimdt, 2005

Toar Pitch 1

A cool boulder problem off the deck. A very suspicious grade considering Malcolm Matheson, Adam Demmert and Neil Monteith played on this for several years without success. Suits tall climbers with strong fingers. Equipped by Neil in 2003.

Start: Start 10m right of Terror of the Sea.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2008

Toar Pitch 2

Exposed face climbing. Belay at single giant U-bolt just left of fridge sized bird-poo

stained hanging 'death' block (5m right of Terror of the Sea's first pitch). Climb cautiously onto block. From block climb faint crack directly above onto exposed face and up this past two FH's to juggy finish. An alternative which avoids the hanging block is to start as for 'BMX Bandits' for two bolts then traverse left into the crack

line. Double rap rings for descent.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2005

Inspector Gadget

A very height dependent grade and a killer line right up the centre of the main wall. Pitch 1 18m 24 - Starts up Terror of the Sea to 2nd BR. Instead of traversing left go straight up past another BR and 2 FH's. Traverse right across slab to last FH and then to single u bolt loweroff or traverse further right to cave and belay on #3.5 camalot, big nut and #2 friend. Pitch 2 20m 22 - Step right from cave and up amazing sustained orange

FA: kp and tim le,

Terror of the Sea Pitch 2

From end of pitch 1 cave swing right past two RBs to very exposed prow and natural gear. Step left and up flakes (RB) and surmount rooflet to grey juggy wall. Up this for 6m to rap anchor on ledge. Has been led as one giant pitch. Bring some medium/large cams on the first pitch and some smaller gear for the second pitch.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

Terror of the Sea Pitch 1

Immaculate rock and a very tough crux if you're short. Central line about 10m right of Popeyed. Over rooflet (BR) and up juggy wall (BR) to horizontal break and rooflet. Up and left past BR and two FHs to mantle onto ledge. Run it out up white marble pockets past BR to belay anchor in cave.

FA: Neil Monteith,

See The Light

FA: kp and the millers falls superdrill !,

Popeye - Iron Arms link up

best warm up for cliff.

FA: kp,

Iron Arms Pitch 2

Steps right from chain and follows thin crack heading slightly right to finish up juggy headwall on spaced gear. Rap off sling.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2003

Very obscure. 'Small' south facing grey wall on boulder about 100m below the north-west end of the Tower. Start is marked by cairn. Up overhung juggy crack to start then onwards up slopers and faint corner with spaced good gear. Crux move in corner near end. Rap off tree leaning against boulder to descend.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt, 2003

The easy option when everything else is too hard! Nice jug hauling spoilt by a dirty halfway ledge. Starts about 80m right of Popeyed and in centre of south facing wall on a separate buttress behind 'Wellington Wimpy'. Up left facing flake to vegetated ledge. Swing up overhung wall above trending left to bollard belay.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt, 2003

Malcolm's Crack (Closed Project)

FA: Equipped Malcolm Matheson, 2004

Prince Of Persia

Once referred to as a link up, it has been bolted & renamed as its a really good warm up. Start at orange pocketed rock and climb a left veering line. Joins iron arms at 3rd FH.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2005

Climb grey streak passing 5 FH's to lower offs.

Start: Start as for Choda Boy

Iron Arms Pitch 1

Taipan style! Starts 5m left of Popeyed at scoopy overhung wall. Technical climbing up scoop past three FHs leads to jugs and cave rest. Blast up reachy wall above past last FH and head left to chain.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2003

Thundercats

Start at Popeyed. Stickclip first bolt then make a very cool & unlikely rightwards traverse across face. Follow line of steel up lovely dark orange rock to anchor.

FA: Equipped Neil Monteith '07, 2000

FA: Climbed inby KP., 2010

Looper

Crazy arete on block.

FA: kp, hammert time, 2012

Ungradeable. Squeeze into slot under 'Super Mario Bros' (50m right of Popeyed). Squirm your way through to the other side of 'The Tower' heading for the light. Finish in the bouldering cave.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt (no torches), 2003

Rush of Blood to the Head

FA: Malcolm matheson Neil Monteith, 2004

FA: Neil Monteith Kent Paterson, 2003

Isolation

FA: Neil Monteith, Jacqui Middelton, Kent Paterson, 2003

Once More for the Paparazzi

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

Comfortably Numb

FA: Chris Abernethy, 2006

Weaves around to get up this pleasant wall. Starts 20m left of Wrapped In Pain, just left of scungy looking chimney slot thing. Full rack required + additional slings

FA: Adam Demmert, Cath & Neil, 2007

Wrapped in Pain

Located on north facing main wall with a large scooped base.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

Slow Torture

Technical face and seam climbing with spaced small trad gear. Great rock.

Start: Starts 3m left of 'Maggot Ridden'.

FA: Adam Demmert, 2004

Maggot Ridden

West side of entrance to the 'Slow Torture' 'Gully' which is 50m west of 'Wrapped in Pain'. Worthwhile despite the name.

FA: Neil Monteith Gareth Llewellin Adam Demmert, 2004

The giant flake on the wall between 'Slow Torture' and 'Skullcracker'. Gain the ledge below this flake by starting 8m right at weakness through rooflet (route was attempted direct but was abandoned when no pro and grade 23+ roof moves were encountered). Walk across sledge and then up nice orange wall until holds run out, look behind to see the big flake, stem onto it and jug easily on ledge. Up left to finish.

FA: Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert & Cath, 2007

Scoops to flake crack then onwards to inverted ceiling. Place vital small cam in slot and swing downwards on horn jug (FH) and over lip to juggy face. Up this face (two FH¹s and sling horns) to clip-and-go lower-off.

Start: Start 20m left of "Slow Torture".

FA: Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert, Rich Ham & Jono Schimdt, 2005

Very featured crack directly opposite "Skullcracker" with nice jugs to finish.

FA: Anita Sharman & Rich Ham, 2005

Fire Breathing Dragon

The first crack 1m from the arete on the left side of the wall as you walk into the 'Slow Torture' gully. Tricky roof move with nice crack to finish.

FA: Anita Sharman, Rich Ham & Neil Monteith, 2005

Walking The Void / Adam Fingercrack

The middle crack. Stick place the first wire(easy to do), step across the void, couple of hard moves lead to a rest, then waltz up the crack heading up the left branch where the crack forks and steepens. Pumpy last moves to good jugs. Abseil from sling.

FA: Adam Demmert, 2005

The right crack. Stick place the first wire(easy to do), step across the gap, then blast up the crack pumping out placing gear. At small roof head up and left. Abseil off fixed sling above Walking the Void.

FA: Adam Demmert, 2005

Bolted by Kent in the pouring rain using a manky sling as a harness. Hangers were recycled from one of Brookies past glories at Camels Hump. Route was abandoned to the elements for three years and finally climbed by Neil.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007