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Description

Fantastic climbing from grade 12 to 28. Superb rock and home to the mega classics Scarab (12*), 'The Minch' (12), Basilisk (16), Odysseus (17*), "Blimp" (20), "Pathos" (21*), 'Flying Circus' (21*), Dragon's Temple (22), Stone Ocean (22), Genisis Direct (24), 'Manic Depressive' (25), Ostler (25*), 'Angular Perspective' (28), The Ogive (28), 'Touchstone Pictures' (28**). Check out Chris Baxter's "South Eastern Grampians" guide (1991) for a full listing until this guide supersedes it. Glenn Tempest & Simon Mentz also have a good select guide to the 'Grampians' which is still in print.

© (jgoding)

Access issues inherited from Grampians

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a national park, pets are illegal inside park boundaries. That also includes inside vehicles.

Approach

Just down the road from Mt Rosea but the road above 'Silverband' Falls is currently closed (until further notice).

Getting There:

'Bundaleer' is on the Rosea Track. This can be accessed from Halls Gap by travelling around 8kms up the Mt Victory Rd and turning left into Glenelg River Rd. Take a left turn into Stony Creek Rd and follow it to the locked gate where it intersects with Rosea Track. Turn right at Rosea Track and you will find the access track on the right opposite a small parking area. Even though the road is closed a bit beyond here please park well off the road as Rosea Track is used for fire access.

Camping:

Bush camping is currently prohibited in the fire affected areas of the park - "including the cave at Bundaleer".

The Boreang camp ground is on Glenelg River Rd beyond its intersection with Stony Creek Rd. (Camp fees apply.) It has 15 campsites (sheltered and open), toilets, 8 picnic tables and 8 fireplaces. Note that fires can only be lit in the designated fireplaces. Note also that there is "no" drinking water.

There are other camp grounds such as Borough Huts and Smiths Mill in the area that also have good facilities.

Access:

The access track leaves the road just over from the car parking bay. The track reaches the cliff just near Scarab. To access the routes to the right of Scarab there is a track branching to the right before a large boulder just before it meets the cliff.

Please use, and stick to, the track to access the cliff. It is important that no new tracks are made through the parts of hillside that are still trying to recover from the fire. There is still a lot of vegetation trying to establish itself in the area and it is important for stability that it be allowed to grow unimpeded. For those who remember it, the track used to follow the creek further up the hill and emerged at a "cave" formed by two large boulders. "This track is now closed and should not be used."

© (jgoding)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Far Left End

1
27 Surfing With the Aliens Mixed 20m, 3

Slabby seam with offset edges on far left end of cliff.

FA: Steve Chapman, 1999

2
27 Whitebait Sport 18m, 4

Thin offset seam with ringbolts.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 1998

3
M3 Bash-hook Aid 18m
4
22 ** Pyjamaland Mixed 20m, 3

Technical stemming! Up short finger crack, sling the top of the flake, then stem up past RB to corner. Keep stemming to top past another two RBs to lower-off. Trad for the start and finish. Rebolted 2015

FA: Craig Nottle & Russel Crow, 1984

5
21 Yerba is the Word Mixed 25m, 3

Bouldery start on pockets up little prow (RBs). Trad from half way to Lower-off. Retrobolted 2015.

FA: Rob Booth, 1999

6
14 American Pie Trad 39m
7
15 Terror Australis Trad 39m
9
17 Impromptu Trad 15m
10
11 M5 Whale Aid 25m 2
11
19 Tour de Farce Trad 30m
12
19 Wall of the Wad Trad 30m
13
14
18 Tiddler Trad 30m
15
18 Athos Trad 20m
16
16 * I'll Be Trad 18m
17
17 Porthos Trad 20m
18
16 Aramis Trad 20m

Camping Cave

The big sandy cave near the left end of the cliff, sprouting various bolts and steep climbs.

20
26 ** Skulthuggery Sport 15m
22
28 *** Angular Perspective Sport 35m

Steep and sustained. An early HB endurofest.

Start: Some way left of 'Manic Depressive' at the left end of the camping cave

FA: Malcolm (HB) Matheson, 1983

24
24 Seamy Side Trad 35m
25
15 M4 The Unkown Soldier Aid 33m 2
26
25 Fistful of Steel Trad 15m

FA: Matt Brooks

27
22 * Enter Sandman Sport 26m
28
22 * Exit Sandman Trad 25m

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

29
9 Gargoyle Trad 39m
30
19 Fertility Instinct Trad 30m
31
18 Hygarfefoapp Trad 30m
32
28 *** The Ogive Trad 36m

THE line through the first major cave (which is not the camping cave). Funky, awesome, full body workout. Be wary of the old carrots. After the start, there is plenty of good gear. Rap station above lip.

Dagon's Alcove

The shady sector up left of Manic Depressive.

33
23 ** Dark Passage Mixed 30m, 5

Big grit arete that has been retrobolted into a more popular route. The original climb had four less bolts! Start on high slabby platform on right edge of the Ogive cave. Belayer should belay from ground. Place a cam in a break then swing left off the platform onto arete. Up it past 3 RBs to slabby seam crack on left side of arete. Up this (trad) then swing through steepness above (two RBs + cams) to lower-off anchor. Classic!

FA: Glenn Tempest & Richard Smith, 1983

34
17 Pumpernickel Trad 34m
36
24 * Front Line Trad 30m
37
26 * Gotham City Trad 20m
38
23 * Tough Tips Trad 25m
39
19 * Kasolve Trad 48m

The left corner of the alcove containing Dagon's Temple. Gear and rock not always great.

40
25 * Berlin Wall Mixed 15m, 1

Rebolted with ringbolts 2015

41
22 *** Dagon's Temple Mixed 25m, 2

Excellent. Thin and technical to start, and thuggish steep on good holds to finish. Well protected mega classic. Better than Blimp? Better than Pathos? Let you be the judge...

Start: About 50-100m left of 'Manic Depressive' is an alcove with an east facing wall. DT is the major crack line going full height.

FA: Chris Peisker, 1978

42
20 * Jane Trad 27m
43
24 * Masters of Pox Mixed 15m, 4

Rebolted with ringbolts 2015.

FA: Ant Prehn, 1989

Touchstone Sector

Home to several of the most famous and visually appealing routes at Bundaleer. The landmark is the well chalked corner of Blimp, and the bolted face route to it's right - Touchstone Pictures.

44
23 * Morepox Trad 30m

The arete with a few bolts left of Narcotic

45
29 * The Castlereagh Line Sport 20m

Bolted seam to anchor between Narcotic and Morepox

46
17 * Narcotic Trad 30m

Steep, offwidth corner left of Manic. After corner, traverse right and follow your nose to top.

47
24 ** Manic Depressive Sport 42m, 7

A quality megapump. Your favourite 25 has been downgraded...

Start: Around about 20m further along past 'Blimp' is a fantastic steep rising face. This is Manic. Please note that in March, 2007 a boardwalk and new cairn have been built by Steve Monks during a VCC & Parks 'Victoria' working bee. Please make sure you use them as the area has been deemed to be of cultural significance and basically people should stick to the board walk and not trample the surrounding area.

FA: Greg Child, 1975

48
22 ** Lunging for Melons Sport 15m, 5

A popular short sport route. The original route wandered up to the top of the cliff by traversing over left into the choss above Manic.

FA: Original - Russ Clune & Mike Law, 1983

FA: Direct Finish - Neil Monteith, 2007

49

This is the obvious extension to Lunging for Melons, linking Lunging for Melons into Blimp Left Wall. Continue past the anchor of LFM past 3 more ring bolts to the Blimp anchor.

FFA: Adam Demmert, 2014

50
25 * Blimp Left Wall Trad 26m
51
20 *** Blimp Trad 39m

A stunning corner crack, featuring sustained climbing with great rock and great gear all the way.

Start: The major corner 20m right of 'Manic Depressive'

FA: Bruno Zielke & John Ewbank (19M1), 1969

FFA: Joe Friend & Ian Lewis, 1974

52
26 *** Dive Dive Dive Trad 30m
53
28 *** Touchstone Pictures Sport 46m 2

Sustained thin face climbing on immaculate rock.

Start: About 3m right of Blimb are some tiny holds under a high fixed hanger.

  1. 26m (28) Originally led as one mega pitch but perhaps better now as 2? Up thin face past many FH past some unusual features, R to corner (HDBB)

  2. 20m (26) Thin wall (PR) then L to cracked overhang. Past this to hanging corner (2 BR) to finish past old PR on right.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1989

54
25 ** Ostler Trad 60m

Thin steep corner 18m right of Blimp. Many rap off after the first pitch, but you can continue up the corner at 21.

55
26 ** The Beckoning Trad 25m

Continues up the bolted arete after the start of Ostler.

56
24 ** Bliss Trad 20m
57
24 ** Sparrows Sport 15m, 6

Starts up corner then break into unlikely double huecos. Finishes up little arête 5m right of bliss. Recommend stick clipping 1st bolt.

58
20 Reneeobskolosk Trad 48m
59
14 Infidel Trad 48m
60
20 ** Blanketty Blank Trad 28m

Groove and wall left of Pathos until you can step right to join that route above the crux

62
21 *** Pathos Trad 57m

Superb well protected climbing on great rock.

Start: About 100m right of 'Blimp' is an attractive bleached arete. 'Pathos' takes the front of the arete up the seam. There is a subtle marking (chiseling) in the rock with the letter P and a square next to it (not painted).

FA: Chris Peisker, 1977

63
21 Sympathy Trad 25m
64
22 Lust Trad 28m
65
13 Cleopatra Trad 55m
67
19 Crash Dive Trad 25m
68
23 * Unknown Trad 50m 2
  1. (23) Climb the buttress left of Minch. Starts up groove / fused crack on LHS of the buttress and takes rising traverse right on slopes after 15m. Pull on to the slab and belay at the level of Flying Circus traverse. 2. (22) Up the slab and pass an overhang following thin crack on the right. Continue up and join Minch for final 5m of that climb.

FA: Unknown

69
12 ** The Minch Trad 40m

Old fashioned fun up the deep chimney crack 25m right of Pathos and just left of the prow of Flying Circus.

FA: Robert Bull & Peter Jackson (alts), 1965

71
21 ** Flying Circus Trad 50m

Wandering and not that well protected, the main thing going for this climb is the eventual position out on the arete. Up the minch until traverse on pockets out to the arete and up.

Start: Start as for "The Minch"

FA: Pete Cresswell & Cath Duffill, 1991

72
17 Martin Rattler Trad 44m
73
16 Spot On Trad 48m
75
17 Flying Buttress Trad 45m
76
17 ** Gerontian Trad 46m 3

Classic.

Start: Climbs small corner above step in track. Initialed.

  1. 15m (-) Step right at 3m and climb poorly protected wall, or go L and climb the arete.

  2. 17m (17) Up corner past PR. Multiple large cams (#4 Camalots and a #5) are a good idea. There are small wires too but they're not that great. The pin of course is rubbish.

  3. 14m (-) Step up from ledge and traverse left in hand crack under overhang to vertical crack. Up.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Peter Jackson (Alts), 1965

78

Continue straight up hand crack above the 2nd belay

79
16 Melon Was Here Trad 40m
80
14 Quandary Trad 51m
81
23 ** Genesis Trad 57m

Corner in middle of wall right of Gerontian then escape right by reversing Odysseus below old bolts.

82
24 *** Genesis Direct Trad 50m

Continue up wall above the corner past 2 bolts to cracked overhang

83
22 ** Stone Ocean Trad 35m
84
85
18 * Moloch Trad 46m

Steep jam crack behind conifer (which may be dead by now) right of Genesis to ledge. First pitch is great, then meander to the top however.

86
22 * Moloch Variant Trad 27m
87
12 Cocksure Trad 46m
88
16 ** The Frog Trad 45m

Initialled corner R of Moloch, eventually leading to the same belay ledge and up line of least resistance to top.

90
16 * Basilisk Trad 65m
91

THE line leading up and through the major roof. Don't bother with any other version of Basilisk, just do this one.

92
14 * Basilisk Variant Trad 50m
93
14 Handicock Trad 52m
94
19 * Ruined Castles Trad 49m
95
22 * Flying High Trad 15m
96
12 ** Scarab Trad 62m
97
23 ** Scarab Direct Trad 55m
98

Right leaning crack 1.5m right of Scarab, finishing on big ledge and rap anchor.

99
20 Ball Race Trad 20m

From large boulder on the terrace above Island Cruise, climb wall to a ledge. Finish over overhang.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1980

100
24 ** We Don't Like Slopes Mixed 36m, 11

Now a really long single pitch, mostly on bolts. Bring a handful of medium wires for the top section. Up easy bolted face left of Island Cruise to large blocks just left of ledge. The angle kicks back into steep jugs then tough move over final roof and finish up easier wall on trad to lower-off bolts. 70m rope will just make it back to the ground.

FA: Mikl Law, 1983

101
12 Castor Trad 27m
102
17 ** Odysseus Trad 84m
103
18 * Island Cruise Trad 30m
104
105
8 Pollux Trad 27m
106
14 Abseil Arete Trad 30m
107
5 Abseil Crack Trad 19m
108
14 Little Desert Trad 19m
109
11 The Gunk Trad 24m
110
17 Kerplunk Trad 22m
111
11 The Skunk Trad 27m
112
12 The Punk Trad 27m
113
20 * Live Action Trad 30m

Starts about 80m right of 'Island Cruise' on wall with a grey seam up the middle. Traverse in from right to avoid roof, then up the wall. Descent by abseiling off tree 30m to left (facing in, 25m).

114
18 Sunday Expose Trad 25m
115
19 * Addition Trad 20m
116
4 Leftover Trad 24m
117
8 Pamular Trad 30m
119
12 ** Primular Trad 28m
120
121

Done in the pouring rain. Not really sure on the grade it felt harder than 17 but I was slipping around quite a lot at the time. Follow crack on wall right of easier climbs up right then change cracks and head back left.

122
19 ** The Price You Pay Trad 20m
124
10 Cop Out Trad 25m
125
20 Total Control Trad 23m
126
21 Don't Sneeze Trad 20m
127
17 Realm of Shades Trad 10m
129
130
131
8 New Front Ear Trad 18m
132
21 Bold Front Trad 20m
133
18 Annie's Mistake Trad 20m
134
16 (Unnamed) Trad
137
11 It's Another Boy Trad 20m

Activity

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