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Description

Fantastic climbing from grade 12 to 28. Superb rock and home to the mega classics Scarab (12*), 'The Minch' (12), Basilisk (16), Odysseus (17*), "Blimp" (20), "Pathos" (21*), 'Flying Circus' (21*), Dragon's Temple (22), Stone Ocean (22), Genisis Direct (24), 'Manic Depressive' (25), Ostler (25*), 'Angular Perspective' (28), The Ogive (28), 'Touchstone Pictures' (28**). Check out Chris Baxter's "South Eastern Grampians" guide (1991) for a full listing until this guide supersedes it. Glenn Tempest & Simon Mentz also have a good select guide to the 'Grampians' which is still in print.

© (jgoding)

Access issues inherited from Grampians

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a national park, pets are illegal inside park boundaries. That also includes inside vehicles.

Approach

Just down the road from Mt Rosea but the road above 'Silverband' Falls is currently closed (until further notice).

Getting There:

'Bundaleer' is on the Rosea Track. This can be accessed from Halls Gap by travelling around 8kms up the Mt Victory Rd and turning left into Glenelg River Rd. Take a left turn into Stony Creek Rd and follow it to the locked gate where it intersects with Rosea Track. Turn right at Rosea Track and you will find the access track on the right opposite a small parking area. Even though the road is closed a bit beyond here please park well off the road as Rosea Track is used for fire access.

Camping:

Bush camping is currently prohibited in the fire affected areas of the park - "including the cave at Bundaleer".

The Boreang camp ground is on Glenelg River Rd beyond its intersection with Stony Creek Rd. (Camp fees apply.) It has 15 campsites (sheltered and open), toilets, 8 picnic tables and 8 fireplaces. Note that fires can only be lit in the designated fireplaces. Note also that there is "no" drinking water.

There are other camp grounds such as Borough Huts and Smiths Mill in the area that also have good facilities.

Access:

The access track leaves the road just over from the car parking bay. The track reaches the cliff just near Scarab. To access the routes to the right of Scarab there is a track branching to the right before a large boulder just before it meets the cliff.

Please use, and stick to, the track to access the cliff. It is important that no new tracks are made through the parts of hillside that are still trying to recover from the fire. There is still a lot of vegetation trying to establish itself in the area and it is important for stability that it be allowed to grow unimpeded. For those who remember it, the track used to follow the creek further up the hill and emerged at a "cave" formed by two large boulders. "This track is now closed and should not be used."

© (jgoding)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Slabby seam with offset edges on far left end of cliff.

FA: Steve Chapman, 1999

Thin offset seam with ringbolts. This looks like a massive sandbag. Prepare to be humbled!

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 1998

6m right of Whitebait, old bolt at start?

Technical stemming! Up short finger crack, sling the top of the flake, then stem up past RB to corner. Keep stemming to top past another two RBs to lower-off. Trad for the start and finish. Rebolted 2015

FA: Craig Nottle & Russel Crow, 1984

Bouldery start on pockets up little prow (RBs). Trad from half way to Lower-off. Retrobolted 2015.

FA: Rob Booth, 1999

Initialed. Start below left end of high roofs. Wanders and is loose and fithly.

65 mright of AP. Initialled. Also wandering, probably loose and filthy.

Off width corner crack 6m right of TA

Sickle shaped corner 5m right of Impromptu. May still have 2 old bolts.

Diagonal crack right of Whale

Loose sandy wall between TF and T

Start as foTF, traverse left then up past old bolt

Short crack 20m right of Whale. The 1991 guide makes all these routes sound awful and they've probably only gotten worse.

Loose arete on left side of descent gully

The big sandy cave near the left end of the cliff, sprouting various bolts and steep climbs.

Traverses the lip of the camping cave from Left end in 3 pitches.

Steep and sustained. An early HB endurofest.

Start: Some way left of 'Manic Depressive' at the left end of the camping cave

FA: Malcolm (HB) Matheson, 1983

BRs 10m right of AP, eventually joins AP

Initialled. Old bolts to thin roof crack

FA: Matt Brooks

A daunting ride, especially across the final five-metre diagonal roof. At the undercut wall about 18m L of The Sandman. Stick-clip the high ring to start. Eight glue-in ring bolts in total. Lower-off. Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest March 2017.

Set by Glenn Tempest, 2017

FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, 2017

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

Starts up 'Enter Sandman' and continues up the steep wall past three new rings to finish through the reachy overhang on 'Exit Sandman'. The most logical way to climb this wall and with no rope drag issues. Originally led on trad as a trad linkup of two sport routes!

FA: Robin Holmes, Michael O'Reilly & Steve Chapman, 2004

Set by Glenn Tempest, 2017

50m left of US at first break in roof. Wandering and probably loose and filthy. A fine choice for the first route at Bundaleer.

Crap rock, crap gear. Dark streak 3m left of H.

More of the same. Initialled weakness 37m right of G, 25m left of The Ogive.

THE line through the first major cave (which is not the camping cave). Funky, awesome, full body workout. Be wary of the old carrots. After the start, there is plenty of good gear. Rap station above lip.

The shady sector up left of Manic Depressive.

Big grit arete that has been retrobolted into a more popular route. The original climb had four less bolts! Start on high slabby platform on right edge of the Ogive cave. Belayer should belay from ground. Place a cam in a break then swing left off the platform onto arete. Up it past 3 RBs to slabby seam crack on left side of arete. Up this (trad) then swing through steepness above (two RBs + cams) to lower-off anchor. Classic!

FA: Glenn Tempest & Richard Smith, 1983

Chimney behind boulder of DP. Old BR and PR.

Crack across wall right of P. Up wall to crack then into K.

Straight up wall of FL. rebolted 2017

Wall right of FL past 2RB into K. There is now a lower off.

The left corner of the alcove containing Dagon's Temple. Gear and rock not always great. Lower off at top.

Rebolted with ringbolts 2015, wall, seam then pockets starting from block right of K.

Excellent. Thin and technical to start, and thuggish steep on good holds to finish. Well protected mega classic. Better than Blimp? Better than Pathos? Let you be the judge...

Start: About 50-100m left of 'Manic Depressive' is an alcove with an east facing wall. DT is the major crack line going full height.

FA: Chris Peisker, 1978

Corner right of DT, often wet.

Rebolted with ringbolts 2015.

FA: Ant Prehn, 1989

Home to several of the most famous and visually appealing routes at Bundaleer. The landmark is the well chalked corner of Blimp, and the bolted face route to it's right - Touchstone Pictures.

The arete with a few bolts left of Narcotic

Bolted seam to anchor between Narcotic and Morepox

Steep, offwidth corner left of Manic. After corner, traverse right and follow your nose to top.

Jumping off the stool instead of just pulling on drops it to 24.

Start: Around about 20m further along past 'Blimp' is a fantastic steep rising face. This is Manic. Please note that in March, 2007 a boardwalk and new cairn have been built by Steve Monks during a VCC & Parks 'Victoria' working bee. Please make sure you use them as the area has been deemed to be of cultural significance and basically people should stick to the board walk and not trample the surrounding area.

FA: Greg Child, 1975

A popular short sport route. The original route wandered up to the top of the cliff by traversing over left into the choss above Manic.

FA: Original - Russ Clune & Mike Law, 1983

FA: Direct Finish - Neil Monteith, 2007

This is the obvious extension to Lunging for Melons, linking Lunging for Melons into Blimp Left Wall. Continue past the anchor of LFM past 3 more ring bolts to the Blimp anchor.

FFA: Adam Demmert, 2014

Stick-clip the first ring-bolt from the base of Blimp. Step onto the L wall. At the sixth bolt there is a tricky reach L to gain a poor knob. Continue straight up the technical wall above passing another two bolts to Blimp's lower-off anchor.

Set by Glenn Tempest

FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, 2017

A stunning corner crack, featuring sustained climbing with great rock and great gear all the way.

Start: The major corner 20m right of 'Manic Depressive'

FA: Bruno Zielke & John Ewbank (19M1), 1969

FFA: Joe Friend & Ian Lewis, 1974

Traverses into TP from Blimp

Sustained thin face climbing on immaculate rock.

Start: About 3m right of Blimb are some tiny holds under a high fixed hanger.

  1. 26m (28) Originally led as one mega pitch but perhaps better now as 2? Up thin face past many FH past some unusual features, R to corner (HDBB)

  2. 20m (26) Thin wall (PR) then L to cracked overhang. Past this to hanging corner (2 BR) to finish past old PR on right.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1989

Thin steep corner 18m right of Blimp. Many rap off after the first pitch, but you can continue up the corner at 21.

Continues up the bolted arete after the start of Ostler.

3m right of ostler, groove and wall to join ostler. 3 bolts, might be from 1983.

Starts up corner then break into unlikely double huecos. Finishes up little arête 5m right of bliss. Recommend stick clipping 1st bolt.

4m right of bliss, described as "the rotten line".

Chimney 1m right of R

Groove and wall left of Pathos until you can step right to join that route above the crux

Superb well protected climbing on great rock.

Start: About 100m right of 'Blimp' is an attractive bleached arete. 'Pathos' takes the front of the arete up the seam. There is a subtle marking (chiseling) in the rock with the letter P and a square next to it (not painted).

FA: Chris Peisker, 1977

Chimney 1m right of P

Rib and arete 1m right of C

  1. (23) Climb the buttress left of Minch. Starts up groove / fused crack on LHS of the buttress and takes rising traverse right on slopes after 15m. Pull on to the slab and belay at the level of Flying Circus traverse. 2. (22) Up the slab and pass an overhang following thin crack on the right. Continue up and join Minch for final 5m of that climb.

FA: Unknown

Old fashioned fun up the deep chimney crack 25m right of Pathos and just left of the prow of Flying Circus.

FA: Robert Bull & Peter Jackson (alts), 1965

Crack 8m righ of Minch to cave leading into M, 3 old PR

Wandering and not that well protected, the main thing going for this climb is the eventual position out on the arete. Up the minch until traverse on pockets out to the arete and up.

Start: Start as for "The Minch"

FA: Pete Cresswell & Cath Duffill, 1991

Chimney 10m right of MVS, then wanders all over the shop.

Initialled and chimney 9m right of MR

Start as for Gerontian then left and up arete

Classic.

Start: Climbs small corner above step in track. Initialed.

  1. 15m (-) Step right at 3m and climb poorly protected wall, or go L and climb the arete.

  2. 17m (17) Up corner past PR. Multiple large cams (#4 Camalots and a #5) are a good idea. There are small wires too but they're not that great. The pin of course is rubbish.

  3. 14m (-) Step up from ledge and traverse left in hand crack under overhang to vertical crack. Up.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Peter Jackson (Alts), 1965

undercut crack 3m left of original start.

Continue straight up hand crack above the 2nd belay

Wanders up wall to join Gerontian in some vague manner.

Same, somewhere 5m right of Gerontian

Corner in middle of wall right of Gerontian then escape right by reversing Odysseus below old bolts.

Continue up wall above the corner past 2 bolts to cracked overhang

Arete above belay on Moloch.

Steep jam crack behind conifer (which may be dead by now) right of Genesis to ledge. First pitch is great, then meander to the top however.

4m right of M, crack and groove past PR

Initialled corner R of Moloch, eventually leading to the same belay ledge and up line of least resistance to top.

THE line leading up and through the major roof. Don't bother with any other version of Basilisk, just do this one.

12m r of , veering left tjo eventually join B

8m right of H, loose wall to belay on Scarab. p2. shallow corner.

Starts off the ledge at the end of the 2nd pitch of Scarab and makes a good second pitch to Ruined Castles. Start on Arete and head up to the roof past 4 ring bolts past some tricky moves. Then jug out the roof with some big moves where it joins Flying High past fixed hangers. Great position. Back clean to last ring bolt or bring your 2nd up you will need gear for an anchor.

Set by Mikl Law

FFA: adam demmert

At the horns of Scarab, climb obvious roof with long reach to start.

Initalled crack 3m right of RC, 4m left of WDLS. BB on right. p2 traverse left to ledge under horns. p3 Up wall.

Continues up corner and out right.

Right leaning crack 1.5m right of Scarab, finishing on big ledge and rap anchor.

From large boulder on the terrace above Island Cruise, climb wall to a ledge. Finish over overhang.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1980

Climb We Don't Like Slopes until you are able to step right to rap rings. A few small to medium wires are handy if you are not confident at the grade.

Now a really long single pitch, mostly on bolts. Bring a handful of medium wires for the top section. Up easy bolted face left of Island Cruise to large blocks just left of ledge. The angle kicks back into steep jugs then tough move over final roof and finish up easier wall on trad to lower-off bolts. 70m rope will just make it back to the ground.

FA: Mikl Law, 1983

Initiall chimney crack 5m right of WDLS

Traverse starting from the descent anchor.

Up crack for a few moves then left onto wall, trend left up wall to thin seam at top.

Arete and crawl across roof starting at descent anchor.

Initialled chimney crack 2m right of IC

10m right of P, just right of arete.

9m right of AA and 4m left of gully. Initialled

Crack 1m right of AC

Initialled crack 20m right of gully.

Initialled crack 5m right of TG

Initialled cleft 2m right of TS

Starts about 80m right of 'Island Cruise' on wall with a grey seam up the middle. Traverse in from right to avoid roof, then up the wall. Descent by abseiling off tree 30m to left (facing in, 25m).

Left hand version of Live Action with a couple of BR's. Up to base of curving seam, step L, then straight up the wall to finish up the right side of the orange wall past 2 bolts.

FA: 2000

20m right of LA, may have old BR

Initialled 2m right of A, 6m left of gully

Initialled chimney, 30m right of L

initial 6m right of Pamular. Veer right up wall then crack to corner. p.2 up corner. Old guide suggests it might actually be OK.

18m right of Primular, orange wall above block. undercut left line.

Done in the pouring rain. Not really sure on the grade it felt harder than 17 but I was slipping around quite a lot at the time. Follow crack on wall right of easier climbs up right then change cracks and head back left.

7m right of BBT.

BR 2m left of PYP then right into PYP

Wanders somewhere up wall 8m right

5m right of CO, arete of pinnacle, just left of descent gully (40m left of right end of cliff), opposite TMHDI

Face 2m lef of 2 wide cracks just left of MDTG

on right wall of descent gully (40m left of right end of cliff). 6m left of arete, flared crack heading left then back right and wander around run out ground to top

thin crack just right of MDTG

Just left of right arete.

Juggy face 5m of TMDI

FA:

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