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Description

Fantastic climbing from grade 12 to 28. Superb rock and home to the mega classics Scarab (12*), 'The Minch' (12), Basilisk (16), Odysseus (17*), "Blimp" (20), "Pathos" (21*), 'Flying Circus' (21*), Dragon's Temple (22), Stone Ocean (22), Genisis Direct (24), 'Manic Depressive' (25), Ostler (25*), 'Angular Perspective' (28), The Ogive (28), 'Touchstone Pictures' (28**). Check out Chris Baxter's "South Eastern Grampians" guide (1991) for a full listing until this guide supersedes it. Glenn Tempest & Simon Mentz also have a good select guide to the 'Grampians' which is still in print.

© (jgoding)

Access issues inherited from Grampians

The northern part of the Park, including Mt Stapylton is currently closed to all access following the January 2014 fires. Check the Access Issues for each area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

National Park

Approach

Just down the road from Mt Rosea but the road above 'Silverband' Falls is currently closed (until further notice).

Getting There:

'Bundaleer' is on the Rosea Track. This can be accessed from Halls Gap by travelling around 8kms up the Mt Victory Rd and turning left into Glenelg River Rd. Take a left turn into Stony Creek Rd and follow it to the locked gate where it intersects with Rosea Track. Turn right at Rosea Track and you will find the access track on the right opposite a small parking area. Even though the road is closed a bit beyond here please park well off the road as Rosea Track is used for fire access.

Camping:

Bush camping is currently prohibited in the fire affected areas of the park - "including the cave at Bundaleer".

The Boreang camp ground is on Glenelg River Rd beyond its intersection with Stony Creek Rd. (Camp fees apply.) It has 15 campsites (sheltered and open), toilets, 8 picnic tables and 8 fireplaces. Note that fires can only be lit in the designated fireplaces. Note also that there is "no" drinking water.

There are other camp grounds such as Borough Huts and Smiths Mill in the area that also have good facilities.

Access:

The access track leaves the road just over from the car parking bay. The track reaches the cliff just near Scarab. To access the routes to the right of Scarab there is a track branching to the right before a large boulder just before it meets the cliff.

Please use, and stick to, the track to access the cliff. It is important that no new tracks are made through the parts of hillside that are still trying to recover from the fire. There is still a lot of vegetation trying to establish itself in the area and it is important for stability that it be allowed to grow unimpeded. For those who remember it, the track used to follow the creek further up the hill and emerged at a "cave" formed by two large boulders. "This track is now closed and should not be used."

© (jgoding)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
M3 Whalebait Aid 18m
2
M3 Bash-hook Aid 18m
3
22 * Pyjamaland Trad 20m
4
14 American Pie Trad 39m
5
15 Terror Australis Trad 39m
7
17 Impromptu Trad 15m
8
11 M5 Whale Aid 25m
9
19 Tour de Farce Trad 30m
10
19 Wall of the Wad Trad 30m
11
12
18 Tiddler Trad 30m
13
18 Athos Trad 20m
14
16 I'll Be Trad 18m
15
17 Porthos Trad 20m
16
16 Aramis Trad 20m
18
26 ** Skulthuggery Sport 15m
20
28 ** Angular Perspective Sport 35m

Steep and sustained. An early HB endurofest.

Start: Some way left of 'Manic Depressive' at the left end of the camping cave

FA: Malcolm (HB) Matheson, 1983

22
24 Seamy Side Trad 35m
23
15 M4 The Unkown Soldier Aid 33m
24
25 Fistful of Steel Trad 15m

FA: Matt Brooks

25
22 Enter Sandman Sport 26m
26
22 Exit Sandman Trad 25m

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

27
9 Gargoyle Trad 39m
28
19 Fertility Instinct Trad 30m
29
18 Hygarfefoapp Trad 30m
30
28 ** The Ogive Trad 36m
31
23 * Dark Passage Trad 30m
32
17 Pumpernickel Trad 34m
34
24 * Front Line Trad 30m
35
26 * Gotham City Trad 20m
36
23 * Tough Tips Trad 25m
37
19 Kasolve Trad 48m
38
25 * Berlin Wall Trad 20m
39
22 ** Dagon's Temple Mixed 25m, 2

Excellent. Thin and technical to start, and thuggish steep on good holds to finish. Well protected mega classic. Better than Blimp? Better than Pathos? Let you be the judge...

Start: About 50-100m left of 'Manic Depressive' is an alcove with an east facing wall. DT is the major crack line going full height.

FA: Chris Peisker, 1978

40
20 * Jane Trad 27m
41
24 * Masters of Pox Trad 35m
42
23 * Morepox Trad 30m
43
29 * The Castlereagh Line Sport 20m
44
17 * Narcotic Trad 30m
45
25 ** Manic Depressive Sport 42m, 7

A quality megapump

Start: Around about 20m further along past 'Blimp' is a fantastic steep rising face. This is Manic. Please note that in March, 2007 a boardwalk and new cairn have been built by Steve Monks during a VCC & Parks 'Victoria' working bee. Please make sure you use them as the area has been deemed to be of cultural significance and basically people should stick to the board walk and not trample the surrounding area.

FA: Greg Child, 1975

46
22 * Lunging for Melons Sport 15m
47

FA: 2007

48
25 Blimp Left Wall Trad 26m
49
21 *** Blimp Trad 39m

A stunning corner crack, featuring sustained climbing with great rock and great gear all the way.

Start: The major corner 20m right of 'Manic Depressive'

FA: Bruno Zielke, John Ewbank (19M1), 1969

FFA: Joe Friend, Ian Lewis, 1974

50
26 ** Dive Dive Dive Trad 30m
51

Sustained thin face climbing on immaculate rock.

Start: About 3m right of Blimb are some tiny holds under a high fixed hanger.

  1. 26m (28) Originally led as one mega pitch but perhaps better now as 2? Up thin face past many FH past some unusual features, R to corner (HDBB)

  2. 20m (26) Thin wall (PR) then L to cracked overhang. Past this to hanging corner (2 BR) to finish past old PR on right.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1989

52
25 ** Ostler Trad 60m
53
26 * The Beckoning Trad 25m
54
24 ** Bliss Trad 20m
55
20 Reneeobskolosk Trad 48m
56
14 Infidel Trad 48m
57
20 * Blanketty Blank Trad 28m
59
21 *** Pathos Trad 57m

Superb well protected climbing on great rock.

Start: About 100m right of 'Blimp' is an attractive bleached arete. 'Pathos' takes the front of the arete up the seam. There is a subtle marking (chiseling) in the rock with the letter P and a square next to it (not painted).

FA: Chris Peisker, 1977

60
21 Sympathy Trad 25m
61
22 Lust Trad 28m
62
13 Cleopatra Trad 55m
64
19 Crash Dive Trad 25m
65
12 ** The Minch Trad 40m

Fantastic well protected climbing

Start: The crack 7m right of Aquarius.

FA: Robert Bull, Peter Jackson (alts), 1965

67
21 ** Flying Circus Trad 50m

Fantastic.

Start: Start as for "The Minch"

FA: Pete Cresswell, Cath Duffill, 1991

68
17 Martin Rattler Trad 44m
69
16 Spot On Trad 48m
71
17 Flying Buttress Trad 45m
72
17 ** Gerontian Trad 46m

Classic.

Start: Climbs small corner above step in track. Initialed.

  1. 15m (-) Step right at 3m and climb poorly protected wall

  2. 17m (16) Up corner past PR

  3. 14m (-) Step up from ledge and traverse left in hand crack under overhang to vertical crack. Up

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson (Alts), 1965

75
16 Melon Was Here Trad 40m
76
14 Quandary Trad 51m
77
23 ** Genesis Trad 57m
78
24 *** Genesis Direct Trad 50m
79
22 ** Stone Ocean Trad 35m
80
81
18 * Moloch Trad 46m
82
22 * Moloch Variant Trad 27m
83
12 Cocksure Trad 46m
84
16 * The Frog Trad 45m
86
16 * Basilisk Trad 65m
88
14 * Basilisk Variant Trad 50m
89
14 Handicock Trad 52m
90
19 * Ruined Castles Trad 49m
91
22 ** Flying High Trad 15m
92
12 ** Scarab Trad 62m
93
23 ** Scarab Direct Trad 55m
95
20 Ball Race Trad 30m
96
97
12 Castor Trad 27m
98
17 ** Odysseus Trad 84m
99
18 Island Cruise Trad 30m
100
101
8 Pollux Trad 27m
102
14 Abseil Arete Trad 30m
103
5 Abseil Crack Trad 19m
104
14 Little Desert Trad 19m
105
11 The Gunk Trad 24m
106
17 Kerplunk Trad 22m
107
11 The Skunk Trad 27m
108
12 The Punk Trad 27m
109
20 * Live Action Trad 30m
110
18 Sunday Expose Trad 25m
111
19 Addition Trad 20m
112
4 Leftover Trad 24m
113
8 Pamular Trad 30m
115
12 Primular Trad 28m
116
117

Done in the pouring rain. Not really sure on the grade it felt harder than 17 but I was slipping around quite a lot at the time. Follow crack on wall right of easier climbs up right then change cracks and head back left.

118
19 The Price You Pay Trad 20m
120
10 Cop Out Trad 25m
121
20 Total Control Trad 23m
122
21 Don't Sneeze Trad 20m
123
17 Realm of Shades Trad 10m
125
126
127
8 New Front Ear Trad 18m
128
21 Bold Front Trad 20m
129
18 Annie's Mistake Trad 20m
130
16 (Unnamed) Trad
133
11 It's Another Boy Trad 20m
137
21 Yerba is the Word Trad 25m

Open trips

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