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Description

Fantastic climbing from grade 12 to 28. Superb rock and home to the mega classics Scarab (12*), 'The Minch' (12), Basilisk (16), Odysseus (17*), "Blimp" (20), "Pathos" (21*), 'Flying Circus' (21*), Dragon's Temple (22), Stone Ocean (22), Genisis Direct (24), 'Manic Depressive' (25), Ostler (25*), 'Angular Perspective' (28), The Ogive (28), 'Touchstone Pictures' (28**). Check out Chris Baxter's "South Eastern Grampians" guide (1991) for a full listing until this guide supersedes it. Glenn Tempest & Simon Mentz also have a good select guide to the 'Grampians' which is still in print.

© (jgoding)

Approach

Just down the road from Mt Rosea but the road above 'Silverband' Falls is currently closed (until further notice).

Getting There:

'Bundaleer' is on the Rosea Track. This can be accessed from Halls Gap by travelling around 8kms up the Mt Victory Rd and turning left into Glenelg River Rd. Take a left turn into Stony Creek Rd and follow it to the locked gate where it intersects with Rosea Track. Turn right at Rosea Track and you will find the access track on the right opposite a small parking area. Even though the road is closed a bit beyond here please park well off the road as Rosea Track is used for fire access.

Camping:

Bush camping is currently prohibited in the fire affected areas of the park - "including the cave at Bundaleer".

The Boreang camp ground is on Glenelg River Rd beyond its intersection with Stony Creek Rd. (Camp fees apply.) It has 15 campsites (sheltered and open), toilets, 8 picnic tables and 8 fireplaces. Note that fires can only be lit in the designated fireplaces. Note also that there is "no" drinking water.

There are other camp grounds such as Borough Huts and Smiths Mill in the area that also have good facilities.

Access:

The access track leaves the road just over from the car parking bay. The track reaches the cliff just near Scarab. To access the routes to the right of Scarab there is a track branching to the right before a large boulder just before it meets the cliff.

Please use, and stick to, the track to access the cliff. It is important that no new tracks are made through the parts of hillside that are still trying to recover from the fire. There is still a lot of vegetation trying to establish itself in the area and it is important for stability that it be allowed to grow unimpeded. For those who remember it, the track used to follow the creek further up the hill and emerged at a "cave" formed by two large boulders. "This track is now closed and should not be used."

© (jgoding)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
M3 Whalebait Aid 18m
2
M3 Bash-hook Aid 18m
3
22 * Pyjamaland Trad 20m
4
14 American Pie Trad 39m
5
15 Terror Australis Trad 39m
7
17 Impromptu Trad 15m
8
11 M5 Whale Aid 25m 2
9
19 Tour de Farce Trad 30m
10
19 Wall of the Wad Trad 30m
11
12
18 Tiddler Trad 30m
13
18 Athos Trad 20m
14
16 I'll Be Trad 18m
15
17 Porthos Trad 20m
16
16 Aramis Trad 20m
18
26 ** Skulthuggery Sport 15m
20
28 ** Angular Perspective Sport 35m

Steep and sustained. An early HB endurofest.

Start: Some way left of 'Manic Depressive' at the left end of the camping cave

FA: Malcolm (HB) Matheson, 1983

22
24 Seamy Side Trad 35m
23
15 M4 The Unkown Soldier Aid 33m 2
24
25 Fistful of Steel Trad 15m

FA: Matt Brooks

25
22 Enter Sandman Sport 26m
26
22 Exit Sandman Trad 25m

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

27
9 Gargoyle Trad 39m
28
19 Fertility Instinct Trad 30m
29
18 Hygarfefoapp Trad 30m
30
28 ** The Ogive Trad 36m
31
23 * Dark Passage Trad 30m
32
17 Pumpernickel Trad 34m
34
24 * Front Line Trad 30m
35
26 * Gotham City Trad 20m
36
23 * Tough Tips Trad 25m
37
19 Kasolve Trad 48m
38
25 * Berlin Wall Trad 20m
39
22 ** Dagon's Temple Mixed 25m, 2

Excellent. Thin and technical to start, and thuggish steep on good holds to finish. Well protected mega classic. Better than Blimp? Better than Pathos? Let you be the judge...

Start: About 50-100m left of 'Manic Depressive' is an alcove with an east facing wall. DT is the major crack line going full height.

FA: Chris Peisker, 1978

40
20 * Jane Trad 27m
41
24 * Masters of Pox Trad 35m
42
23 * Morepox Trad 30m
43
29 * The Castlereagh Line Sport 20m
44
17 * Narcotic Trad 30m
45
25 ** Manic Depressive Sport 42m, 7

A quality megapump

Start: Around about 20m further along past 'Blimp' is a fantastic steep rising face. This is Manic. Please note that in March, 2007 a boardwalk and new cairn have been built by Steve Monks during a VCC & Parks 'Victoria' working bee. Please make sure you use them as the area has been deemed to be of cultural significance and basically people should stick to the board walk and not trample the surrounding area.

FA: Greg Child, 1975

46
22 * Lunging for Melons Sport 15m, 5

A popular short sport route. The original route wandered up to the top of the cliff by traversing over left into the choss above Manic.

FA: Original - Russ Clune & Mike Law, 1983

FA: Direct Finish - Neil Monteith, 2007

47

This is the obvious extension to Lunging for Melons, linking Lunging for Melons into Blimp Left Wall. Continue past the anchor of LFM past 3 more ring bolts to the Blimp anchor.

FFA: Adam Demmert, 2014

48
25 Blimp Left Wall Trad 26m
49
21 *** Blimp Trad 39m

A stunning corner crack, featuring sustained climbing with great rock and great gear all the way.

Start: The major corner 20m right of 'Manic Depressive'

FA: Bruno Zielke & John Ewbank (19M1), 1969

FFA: Joe Friend & Ian Lewis, 1974

50
26 ** Dive Dive Dive Trad 30m
51
28 *** Touchstone Pictures Sport 46m 2

Sustained thin face climbing on immaculate rock.

Start: About 3m right of Blimb are some tiny holds under a high fixed hanger.

  1. 26m (28) Originally led as one mega pitch but perhaps better now as 2? Up thin face past many FH past some unusual features, R to corner (HDBB)

  2. 20m (26) Thin wall (PR) then L to cracked overhang. Past this to hanging corner (2 BR) to finish past old PR on right.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1989

52
25 ** Ostler Trad 60m
53
26 * The Beckoning Trad 25m
54
24 ** Bliss Trad 20m
55
24 * Sparrows Sport 15m, 6

Starts up corner then break into unlikely double huecos. Finishes up little arête 5m right of bliss. Recommend stick clipping 1st bolt.

56
20 Reneeobskolosk Trad 48m
57
14 Infidel Trad 48m
58
20 * Blanketty Blank Trad 28m
60
21 *** Pathos Trad 57m

Superb well protected climbing on great rock.

Start: About 100m right of 'Blimp' is an attractive bleached arete. 'Pathos' takes the front of the arete up the seam. There is a subtle marking (chiseling) in the rock with the letter P and a square next to it (not painted).

FA: Chris Peisker, 1977

61
21 Sympathy Trad 25m
62
22 Lust Trad 28m
63
13 Cleopatra Trad 55m
65
19 Crash Dive Trad 25m
66
23 * Unknown Trad 50m 2
  1. (23) Climb the buttress left of Minch. Starts up groove / fused crack on LHS of the buttress and takes rising traverse right on slopes after 15m. Pull on to the slab and belay at the level of Flying Circus traverse. 2. (22) Up the slab and pass an overhang following thin crack on the right. Continue up and join Minch for final 5m of that climb.

FA: Unknown

67
12 ** The Minch Trad 40m

Fantastic well protected climbing

Start: The crack 7m right of Aquarius.

FA: Robert Bull & Peter Jackson (alts), 10th Jul

69
21 ** Flying Circus Trad 50m

Fantastic.

Start: Start as for "The Minch"

FA: Pete Cresswell & Cath Duffill, 1991

70
17 Martin Rattler Trad 44m
71
16 Spot On Trad 48m
73
17 Flying Buttress Trad 45m
74
17 ** Gerontian Trad 46m 3

Classic.

Start: Climbs small corner above step in track. Initialed.

  1. 15m (-) Step right at 3m and climb poorly protected wall

  2. 17m (16) Up corner past PR

  3. 14m (-) Step up from ledge and traverse left in hand crack under overhang to vertical crack. Up

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Peter Jackson (Alts), 5th Dec

77
16 Melon Was Here Trad 40m
78
14 Quandary Trad 51m
79
23 ** Genesis Trad 57m
80
24 *** Genesis Direct Trad 50m
81
22 ** Stone Ocean Trad 35m
82
83
18 * Moloch Trad 46m
84
22 * Moloch Variant Trad 27m
85
12 Cocksure Trad 46m
86
16 * The Frog Trad 45m
88
16 * Basilisk Trad 65m
90
14 * Basilisk Variant Trad 50m
91
14 Handicock Trad 52m
92
19 * Ruined Castles Trad 49m
93
22 ** Flying High Trad 15m
94
12 ** Scarab Trad 62m
95
23 ** Scarab Direct Trad 55m
97
20 Ball Race Trad 30m
98
99
12 Castor Trad 27m
100
17 ** Odysseus Trad 84m
101
18 Island Cruise Trad 30m
102
103
8 Pollux Trad 27m
104
14 Abseil Arete Trad 30m
105
5 Abseil Crack Trad 19m
106
14 Little Desert Trad 19m
107
11 The Gunk Trad 24m
108
17 Kerplunk Trad 22m
109
11 The Skunk Trad 27m
110
12 The Punk Trad 27m
111
20 * Live Action Trad 30m

Starts about 80m right of 'Island Cruise' on wall with a grey seam up the middle. Traverse in from right to avoid roof, then up the wall. Descent by abseiling off tree 30m to left (facing in, 25m).

112
18 Sunday Expose Trad 25m
113
19 Addition Trad 20m
114
4 Leftover Trad 24m
115
8 Pamular Trad 30m
117
12 Primular Trad 28m
118
119

Done in the pouring rain. Not really sure on the grade it felt harder than 17 but I was slipping around quite a lot at the time. Follow crack on wall right of easier climbs up right then change cracks and head back left.

120
19 The Price You Pay Trad 20m
122
10 Cop Out Trad 25m
123
20 Total Control Trad 23m
124
21 Don't Sneeze Trad 20m
125
17 Realm of Shades Trad 10m
127
128
129
8 New Front Ear Trad 18m
130
21 Bold Front Trad 20m
131
18 Annie's Mistake Trad 20m
132
16 (Unnamed) Trad
135
11 It's Another Boy Trad 20m
139
21 Yerba is the Word Trad 25m

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