A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
Long/Lat: 142.474872, -37.198559
- Access Issues: inherited from Grampians
The northern part of the Park, including Mt Stapylton is currently closed to all access following the January 2014 fires. Check the Access Issues for each area.
Here's an update from Parks Victoria:
Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)
The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.
Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.
Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.
As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.
Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.
Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.
Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.
For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:
Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:
- Wonderland Range
- Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
- Mt William Range
- Victoria Point area
- Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
- Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
- Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
- Mt Arapiles
- Mt Talbot
- The Black Range
Please remember your climbing etiquette:
- Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
- Stick to tracks
- Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
- Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
- Be mindful of cleaning
- No chipping or bolting
- Avoid excessive chalk
- Take your rubbish home with you
Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park
Long/Lat: 142.476186, -37.189902
- Description:© (jgoding)
Fantastic climbing from grade 12 to 28. Superb rock and home to the mega classics Scarab (12*), 'The Minch' (12), Basilisk (16), Odysseus (17*), "Blimp" (20), "Pathos" (21*), 'Flying Circus' (21*), Dragon's Temple (22), Stone Ocean (22), Genisis Direct (24), 'Manic Depressive' (25), Ostler (25*), 'Angular Perspective' (28), The Ogive (28), 'Touchstone Pictures' (28**). Check out Chris Baxter's "South Eastern Grampians" guide (1991) for a full listing until this guide supersedes it. Glenn Tempest & Simon Mentz also have a good select guide to the 'Grampians' which is still in print.
- Approach:© (jgoding)
'Bundaleer' is on the Rosea Track. This can be accessed from Halls Gap by travelling around 8kms up the Mt Victory Rd and turning left into Glenelg River Rd. Take a left turn into Stony Creek Rd and follow it to the locked gate where it intersects with Rosea Track. Turn right at Rosea Track and you will find the access track on the right opposite a small parking area. Even though the road is closed a bit beyond here please park well off the road as Rosea Track is used for fire access.
Bush camping is currently prohibited in the fire affected areas of the park - "including the cave at Bundaleer".
The Boreang camp ground is on Glenelg River Rd beyond its intersection with Stony Creek Rd. (Camp fees apply.) It has 15 campsites (sheltered and open), toilets, 8 picnic tables and 8 fireplaces. Note that fires can only be lit in the designated fireplaces. Note also that there is "no" drinking water.
There are other camp grounds such as Borough Huts and Smiths Mill in the area that also have good facilities.
The access track leaves the road just over from the car parking bay. The track reaches the cliff just near Scarab. To access the routes to the right of Scarab there is a track branching to the right before a large boulder just before it meets the cliff.
Please use, and stick to, the track to access the cliff. It is important that no new tracks are made through the parts of hillside that are still trying to recover from the fire. There is still a lot of vegetation trying to establish itself in the area and it is important for stability that it be allowed to grow unimpeded. For those who remember it, the track used to follow the creek further up the hill and emerged at a "cave" formed by two large boulders. "This track is now closed and should not be used."
|6||Terror Australis Variant Finish||6||15m|
|9||Tour de Farce||19||30m|
|10||Wall of the Wad||19||30m|
|11||Ferrets and Faggots||21||30m|
|17||Wedding Cake Island||20|
Angular Perspective (to first chain)
Steep and sustained. An early HB endurofest.
Start: Some way left of 'Manic Depressive' at the left end of the camping cave
FA: Malcolm (HB) Matheson, 1983
|21||Free-Snaking Thru' the Eighth Dimension||28||10m|
|23||The Unkown Soldier||15 M4||33m|
Fistful of Steel
FA: Matt Brooks
FA: Neil Monteith, 2004
|33||Pumpernickel Variant Start||15||14m|
Excellent. Thin and technical to start, and thuggish steep on good holds to finish. Well protected mega classic. Better than Blimp? Better than Pathos? Let you be the judge...
Start: About 50-100m left of 'Manic Depressive' is an alcove with an east facing wall. DT is the major crack line going full height.
FA: Chris Peisker, 1978
|41||Masters of Pox||24||35m|
|43||The Castlereagh Line||29||20m|
A quality megapump
Start: Around about 20m further along past 'Blimp' is a fantastic steep rising face. This is Manic. Please note that in March, 2007 a boardwalk and new cairn have been built by Steve Monks during a VCC & Parks 'Victoria' working bee. Please make sure you use them as the area has been deemed to be of cultural significance and basically people should stick to the board walk and not trample the surrounding area.
FA: Greg Child, 1975
|46||Lunging for Melons||22||15m|
Lunging for Melons Direct
|48||Blimp Left Wall||25||26m|
A stunning corner crack, featuring sustained climbing with great rock and great gear all the way.
Start: The major corner 20m right of 'Manic Depressive'
FA: Bruno Zielke, John Ewbank (19M1), 1969
FFA: Joe Friend, Ian Lewis, 1974
|50||Dive Dive Dive||26||30m|
Sustained thin face climbing on immaculate rock.
Start: About 3m right of Blimb are some tiny holds under a high fixed hanger.
FA: Glenn Tempest, 1989
|58||Blanketty Blank Direct Finish||24||10m|
Superb well protected climbing on great rock.
Start: About 100m right of 'Blimp' is an attractive bleached arete. 'Pathos' takes the front of the arete up the seam. There is a subtle marking (chiseling) in the rock with the letter P and a square next to it (not painted).
FA: Chris Peisker, 1977
|63||Cleopatra Direct Finish||13||24m|
Fantastic well protected climbing
Start: The crack 7m right of Aquarius.
FA: Robert Bull, Peter Jackson (alts), 1965
|66||The Minch Variant Start||15||18m|
Start: Start as for "The Minch"
FA: Pete Cresswell, Cath Duffill, 1991
|70||Spot On Variant Start||11||15m|
Start: Climbs small corner above step in track. Initialed.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson (Alts), 1965
|73||Gerontian Variant Start||10||15m|
|74||Gerontian Direct Finish||14||12m|
|75||Melon Was Here||16||40m|
|85||The Frog Direct Finish||9||21m|
|87||Basilisk Direct Finish||16||25m|
|94||The Singular Raindrop||13||29m|
|96||We Don't Like Slopes||24||48m|
|114||Pamular Variant Start||16|
|116||Born to be a Turkey||19||20m|
Raindrops Keep Falling on my Head
Done in the pouring rain. Not really sure on the grade it felt harder than 17 but I was slipping around quite a lot at the time. Follow crack on wall right of easier climbs up right then change cracks and head back left.
|118||The Price You Pay||19||20m|
|119||The Price You Pay Direct||24||20m|
|123||Realm of Shades||17||10m|
|124||Murph Delivers the Goods||17||20m|
|125||Noises in the Night||16||20m|
|126||They Must've Done It||17||20m|
|127||New Front Ear||8||18m|
|131||Gargoyles and Chicken Heads||11||25m|
|132||They've Been at It Again||13||22m|
|133||It's Another Boy||11||20m|
|134||Cleopatra Alternate Finish||14||20m|
|135||Aquarius Pitch Two Variant||13||17m|
|136||Surfing With the Aliens||27||20m|
|137||Yerba is the Word||21||25m|
|2||West End Live||20||23m|
|3||Condemned to Live||17||16m|
|2||Staphylococcus in My Boots||18||35m|
Long/Lat: 142.484059, -37.207671
|2||Tongue in Ya Ear||13||13m|
|7||Stand in Line||12||13m|
|9||Black Tower Special||19||15m|
FA: John Bechervaise, Chris Baxter, Mike Dexter, Tim Squire-Wilson
|20||Chic to Chic||19||15m|
|21||Rolf Baldwin's Climb||15||10m|
Trad and Aid
|1||Remains to be Seen||16||20m|
|3||The Cut Runs Deep||25||20m|
|1||Too Tripped to Trot||20||30m|
|4||To the Manor Born||14||25m|
|6||Fencing the Fridge||20||22m|
|7||The Fall of Jerusalem||15||22m|
|13||Catching the Rainbow||15||25m|
|14||Random Acts of Violence||17||25m|
The extensive escarpment north of Bundaleer is mostly juggy and of no interest. The exceptions are a pair of attractive buttresses near tghe east end, near the junction of Stony Creek Road and the Mount Rosea Track and another wall 200 metres right of these..
From the road junction walk south-west on flat at foot of rising ground for about ten minutes. Now up a little to the left (east) to west-facing pair of buttresses.
|1||Dogs Outside the Eternal City||18||15m|
|2||The Kingdom of Nothingness||19||16m|
|3||A Close Thing||14||17m|
|4||A Close Thing Direct Finish||17||5m|
|5||Publish or Perish||16||19m|
|7||A Distant Relation||15||16m|
|8||Days of Wine and Roses||15||16m|
|9||The Illusion of Power||16||16m|
|10||Left in the Lurch||13||14m|
|14||Show and Tell||18||16m|