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Table of contents
Long/Lat: 142.474872, -37.198559
- Access Issues: inherited from Grampians
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a national park, pets are illegal inside park boundaries. That also includes inside vehicles.
Long/Lat: 142.476186, -37.189902
- Description:© (jgoding)
Fantastic climbing from grade 12 to 28. Superb rock and home to the mega classics Scarab (12*), 'The Minch' (12), Basilisk (16), Odysseus (17*), "Blimp" (20), "Pathos" (21*), 'Flying Circus' (21*), Dragon's Temple (22), Stone Ocean (22), Genisis Direct (24), 'Manic Depressive' (25), Ostler (25*), 'Angular Perspective' (28), The Ogive (28), 'Touchstone Pictures' (28**). Check out Chris Baxter's "South Eastern Grampians" guide (1991) for a full listing until this guide supersedes it. Glenn Tempest & Simon Mentz also have a good select guide to the 'Grampians' which is still in print.
- Approach:© (jgoding)
'Bundaleer' is on the Rosea Track. This can be accessed from Halls Gap by travelling around 8kms up the Mt Victory Rd and turning left into Glenelg River Rd. Take a left turn into Stony Creek Rd and follow it to the locked gate where it intersects with Rosea Track. Turn right at Rosea Track and you will find the access track on the right opposite a small parking area. Even though the road is closed a bit beyond here please park well off the road as Rosea Track is used for fire access.
Bush camping is currently prohibited in the fire affected areas of the park - "including the cave at Bundaleer".
The Boreang camp ground is on Glenelg River Rd beyond its intersection with Stony Creek Rd. (Camp fees apply.) It has 15 campsites (sheltered and open), toilets, 8 picnic tables and 8 fireplaces. Note that fires can only be lit in the designated fireplaces. Note also that there is "no" drinking water.
There are other camp grounds such as Borough Huts and Smiths Mill in the area that also have good facilities.
The access track leaves the road just over from the car parking bay. The track reaches the cliff just near Scarab. To access the routes to the right of Scarab there is a track branching to the right before a large boulder just before it meets the cliff.
Please use, and stick to, the track to access the cliff. It is important that no new tracks are made through the parts of hillside that are still trying to recover from the fire. There is still a lot of vegetation trying to establish itself in the area and it is important for stability that it be allowed to grow unimpeded. For those who remember it, the track used to follow the creek further up the hill and emerged at a "cave" formed by two large boulders. "This track is now closed and should not be used."
Far Left End
Surfing With the Aliens
Slabby seam with offset edges on far left end of cliff.
FA: Steve Chapman, 1999
Thin offset seam with ringbolts.
FA: Ingvar Lidman, 1998
Technical stemming! Up short finger crack, sling the top of the flake, then stem up past RB to corner. Keep stemming to top past another two RBs to lower-off. Trad for the start and finish. Rebolted 2015
FA: Craig Nottle,Russel Crow, 1984
Yerba is the Word
Bouldery start on pockets up little prow (RBs). Trad from half way to Lower-off. Retrobolted 2015.
FA: Rob Booth, 1999
|8||Terror Australis Variant Finish||6||15m|
|11||Tour de Farce||19||30m|
|12||Wall of the Wad||19||30m|
|13||Ferrets and Faggots||21||30m|
The big sandy cave near the left end of the cliff, sprouting various bolts and steep climbs.
|19||Wedding Cake Island||20|
Angular Perspective (to first chain)
Steep and sustained. An early HB endurofest.
Start: Some way left of 'Manic Depressive' at the left end of the camping cave
FA: Malcolm (HB) Matheson, 1983
|23||Free-Snaking Thru' the Eighth Dimension||28||10m|
|25||The Unkown Soldier||15 M4||233m|
Fistful of Steel
FA: Matt Brooks
FA: Neil Monteith, 2004
THE line through the first major cave (which is not the camping cave). Funky, awesome, full body workout. Be wary of the old carrots. After the start, there is plenty of good gear. Rap station above lip.
The shady sector up left of Manic Depressive.
Big grit arete that has been retrobolted into a more popular route. The original climb had four less bolts! Start on high slabby platform on right edge of the Ogive cave. Belayer should belay from ground. Place a cam in a break then swing left off the platform onto arete. Up it past 3 RBs to slabby seam crack on left side of arete. Up this (trad) then swing through steepness above (two RBs + cams) to lower-off anchor. Classic!
FA: @gtempest,Richard Smith, 1983
|35||Pumpernickel Variant Start||15||14m|
The left corner of the alcove containing Dagon's Temple. Gear and rock not always great.
Rebolted with ringbolts 2015
Excellent. Thin and technical to start, and thuggish steep on good holds to finish. Well protected mega classic. Better than Blimp? Better than Pathos? Let you be the judge...
Start: About 50-100m left of 'Manic Depressive' is an alcove with an east facing wall. DT is the major crack line going full height.
FA: Chris Peisker, 1978
Masters of Pox
Rebolted with ringbolts 2015.
FA: Ant Prehn, 1989
The arete with a few bolts left of Narcotic
The Castlereagh Line
Bolted seam to anchor between Narcotic and Morepox
Steep, offwidth corner left of Manic. After corner, traverse right and follow your nose to top.
A quality megapump
Start: Around about 20m further along past 'Blimp' is a fantastic steep rising face. This is Manic. Please note that in March, 2007 a boardwalk and new cairn have been built by Steve Monks during a VCC & Parks 'Victoria' working bee. Please make sure you use them as the area has been deemed to be of cultural significance and basically people should stick to the board walk and not trample the surrounding area.
FA: Greg Child, 1975
Lunging for Melons
A popular short sport route. The original route wandered up to the top of the cliff by traversing over left into the choss above Manic.
FA: Original - Russ Clune & Mike Law, 1983
FA: Direct Finish - Neil Monteith, 2007
Lunging For Melons Extension
FFA: Adam Demmert, 2014
|50||Blimp Left Wall||25||26m|
A stunning corner crack, featuring sustained climbing with great rock and great gear all the way.
Start: The major corner 20m right of 'Manic Depressive'
FA: Bruno Zielke, John Ewbank (19M1), 1969
FFA: Joe Friend, Ian Lewis, 1974
|52||Dive Dive Dive||26||30m|
Sustained thin face climbing on immaculate rock.
Start: About 3m right of Blimb are some tiny holds under a high fixed hanger.
FA: Glenn Tempest, 1989
Thin steep corner 18m right of Blimp. Many rap off after the first pitch, but you can continue up the corner at 21.
Continues up the bolted arete after the start of Ostler.
Starts up corner then break into unlikely double huecos. Finishes up little arête 5m right of bliss. Recommend stick clipping 1st bolt.
Groove and wall left of Pathos until you can step right to join that route above the crux
|61||Blanketty Blank Direct Finish||24||10m|
Superb well protected climbing on great rock.
Start: About 100m right of 'Blimp' is an attractive bleached arete. 'Pathos' takes the front of the arete up the seam. There is a subtle marking (chiseling) in the rock with the letter P and a square next to it (not painted).
FA: Chris Peisker, 1977
|66||Cleopatra Direct Finish||13||24m|
FA: Robert Bull, Peter Jackson (alts), 10th Jul
|70||The Minch Variant Start||15||18m|
Wandering and not that well protected, the main thing going for this climb is the eventual position out on the arete. Up the minch until traverse on pockets out to the arete and up.
Start: Start as for "The Minch"
FA: Pete Cresswell, Cath Duffill, 1991
|74||Spot On Variant Start||11||15m|
Start: Climbs small corner above step in track. Initialed.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson (Alts), 5th Dec
|77||Gerontian Variant Start||10||15m|
Gerontian Direct Finish
Continue straight up hand crack above the 2nd belay
|79||Melon Was Here||16||40m|
Continue up wall above the corner past 2 bolts to cracked overhang
Steep jam crack behind conifer (which may be dead by now) right of Genesis to ledge. First pitch is great, then meander to the top however.
Initialled corner R of Moloch, eventually leading to the same belay ledge and up line of least resistance to top.
|89||The Frog Direct Finish||9||21m|
Basilisk Direct Finish
THE line leading up and through the major roof. Don't bother with any other version of Basilisk, just do this one.
The Singular Raindrop
Right leaning crack 1.5m right of Scarab, finishing on big ledge and rap anchor.
From large boulder on the terrace above Island Cruise, climb wall to a ledge. Finish over overhang.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1980
We Don't Like Slopes
Now a really long single pitch, mostly on bolts. Bring a handful of medium wires for the top section. Up easy bolted face left of Island Cruise to large blocks just left of ledge. The angle kicks back into steep jugs then tough move over final roof and finish up easier wall on trad to lower-off bolts. 70m rope will just make it back to the ground.
FA: @mikl, 1983
Starts about 80m right of 'Island Cruise' on wall with a grey seam up the middle. Traverse in from right to avoid roof, then up the wall. Descent by abseiling off tree 30m to left (facing in, 25m).
|118||Pamular Variant Start||16|
|120||Born to be a Turkey||19||20m|
Raindrops Keep Falling on my Head
Done in the pouring rain. Not really sure on the grade it felt harder than 17 but I was slipping around quite a lot at the time. Follow crack on wall right of easier climbs up right then change cracks and head back left.
|122||The Price You Pay||19||20m|
|123||The Price You Pay Direct||24||20m|
|127||Realm of Shades||17||10m|
|128||Murph Delivers the Goods||17||20m|
|129||Noises in the Night||16||20m|
|130||They Must've Done It||17||20m|
|131||New Front Ear||8||18m|
|135||Gargoyles and Chicken Heads||11||25m|
|136||They've Been at It Again||13||22m|
|137||It's Another Boy||11||20m|
|138||Cleopatra Alternate Finish||14||20m|
|139||Aquarius Pitch Two Variant||13||17m|
|2||West End Live||20||23m|
|3||Condemned to Live||17||16m|
|2||Staphylococcus in My Boots||18||35m|
Long/Lat: 142.484059, -37.207671
|2||Tongue in Ya Ear||13||13m|
|7||Stand in Line||12||13m|
|9||Black Tower Special||19||15m|
FA: John Bechervaise, Chris Baxter, Mike Dexter, Tim Squire-Wilson
|20||Chic to Chic||19||15m|
|21||Rolf Baldwin's Climb||15||10m|
Trad and Aid
|1||Remains to be Seen||16||20m|
|3||The Cut Runs Deep||25||20m|
|1||Too Tripped to Trot||20||30m|
|4||To the Manor Born||14||25m|
|6||Fencing the Fridge||20||22m|
|7||The Fall of Jerusalem||15||22m|
|13||Catching the Rainbow||15||25m|
|14||Random Acts of Violence||17||25m|
The extensive escarpment north of Bundaleer is mostly juggy and of no interest. The exceptions are a pair of attractive buttresses near tghe east end, near the junction of Stony Creek Road and the Mount Rosea Track and another wall 200 metres right of these..
From the road junction walk south-west on flat at foot of rising ground for about ten minutes. Now up a little to the left (east) to west-facing pair of buttresses.
|1||Dogs Outside the Eternal City||18||15m|
|2||The Kingdom of Nothingness||19||16m|
|3||A Close Thing||14||17m|
|4||A Close Thing Direct Finish||17||5m|
|5||Publish or Perish||16||19m|
|7||A Distant Relation||15||16m|
|8||Days of Wine and Roses||15||16m|
|9||The Illusion of Power||16||16m|
|10||Left in the Lurch||13||14m|
|14||Show and Tell||18||16m|