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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Campbell Gome
Joe Goding
Neil Monteith
Will Monks
Neale Brain
Anthony Cuskelly
Paul "LittleMac" McWaters
adam demmert
.
david singleton
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Bundaleer Area
205 in Crag
- 1.1. Bundaleer 139 in Crag
- 1.2. Bundaleer Lower Cliff 3 in Crag
- 1.3. Calectasia Walls 2 in Crag
- 1.4. Tower Hill 25 in Crag
- 1.5. Elephants Foot 4 in Crag
- 1.6. Equinox Walls 14 in Crag
- 1.7. Western Wall 17 in Crag
- 1.8. Stony Peak 1 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Bundaleer Area 205 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad
Long/Lat: 142.474872, -37.198559
- Access Issues: inherited from Grampians
-
National Park
1.1. Bundaleer 139 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad
Long/Lat: 142.476186, -37.189902
- Description:© (jgoding)
-
Fantastic climbing from grade 12 to 28. Superb rock and home to the mega classics Scarab (12*), 'The Minch' (12), Basalisk (16), Odysseus (17*), "Blimp" (20), "Pathos" (21*), 'Flying Circus' (21*), Dragon's Temple (22), Stone Ocean (22), Genisis Direct (24), 'Manic Depressive' (25), Ostler (25*), 'Angular Perspective' (28), The Ogive (28), 'Touchstone Pictures' (28**). Check out Chris Baxter's "South Eastern Grampians" guide (1991) for a full listing until this guide supersedes it. Glenn Tempest & Simon Mentz also have a good select guide to the 'Grampians' which is still in print.
- Approach:© (jgoding)
-
Just down the road from Mt Rosea but the road above 'Silverband' Falls is currently closed (until further notice).
Getting There:
'Bundaleer' is on the Rosea Track. This can be accessed from Halls Gap by travelling around 8kms up the Mt Victory Rd and turning left into Glenelg River Rd. Take a left turn into Stony Creek Rd and follow it to the locked gate where it intersects with Rosea Track. Turn right at Rosea Track and you will find the access track on the right opposite a small parking area. Even though the road is closed a bit beyond here please park well off the road as Rosea Track is used for fire access.
Camping:
Bush camping is currently prohibited in the fire affected areas of the park - "including the cave at Bundaleer".
The Boreang camp ground is on Glenelg River Rd beyond its intersection with Stony Creek Rd. (Camp fees apply.) It has 15 campsites (sheltered and open), toilets, 8 picnic tables and 8 fireplaces. Note that fires can only be lit in the designated fireplaces. Note also that there is "no" drinking water.
There are other camp grounds such as Borough Huts and Smiths Mill in the area that also have good facilities.
Access:
The access track leaves the road just over from the car parking bay. The track reaches the cliff just near Scarab. To access the routes to the right of Scarab there is a track branching to the right before a large boulder just before it meets the cliff.
Please use, and stick to, the track to access the cliff. It is important that no new tracks are made through the parts of hillside that are still trying to recover from the fire. There is still a lot of vegetation trying to establish itself in the area and it is important for stability that it be allowed to grow unimpeded. For those who remember it, the track used to follow the creek further up the hill and emerged at a "cave" formed by two large boulders. "This track is now closed and should not be used."
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Whalebait | M3 | 18m | |||
| 2 | Bash-hook | M3 | 18m | |||
| 3 |
| 22 | 20m |
Matt Earsman 6 months agoMatt Earsman 6 months ago
| ||
| 4 | American Pie | 14 | 39m | |||
| 5 | Terror Australis | 15 | 39m | |||
| 6 | Terror Australis Variant Finish | 6 | 15m | |||
| 7 | Impromptu | 17 | 15m | |||
| 8 | Whale | 11 M5 | 25m | |||
| 9 | Tour de Farce | 19 | 30m | |||
| 10 | Wall of the Wad | 19 | 30m | |||
| 11 | Ferrets and Faggots | 21 | 30m | |||
| 12 | Tiddler | 18 | 30m | |||
| 13 | Athos | 18 | 20m | |||
| 14 | I'll Be | 16 | 18m |
Simon Madden 9 years ago
| ||
| 15 | Porthos | 17 | 20m | |||
| 16 | Aramis | 16 | 20m | |||
| 17 |
| 20 | ||||
| 18 |
| 26 | 15m |
Paul Kinnane 2 years agoSteve 5 years ago
| ||
| 19 |
FA: HB, | 27 | 12m |
Neil Monteith 5 years agoAlister Robertson 7 years ago
| ||
| 20 |
Steep and sustained. An early HB endurofest. Start: Some way left of 'Manic Depressive' at the left end of the camping cave FA: Malcolm (HB) Matheson, 1983 | 28 | 35m |
. 1 years ago
| ||
| 21 |
| 28 | 10m |
Phil Neville 4 years agosteve pollard 9 years ago
| ||
| 22 | Seamy Side | 24 | 35m | |||
| 23 | The Unkown Soldier | 15 M4 | 33m | |||
| 24 |
Fistful of Steel
FA: Matt Brooks, | 25 | 15m |
Neil Monteith 5 years ago
| ||
| 25 | Enter Sandman | 22 | 26m |
Andrew Clark 1 years agoAndrew Clark 1 years ago
| ||
| 26 |
Exit Sandman
FA: Neil Monteith, 2004 | 22 | 25m |
Simon Madden 11 weeks agoadam demmert 10 weeks ago
| ||
| 27 | Gargoyle | 9 | 39m | |||
| 28 | Fertility Instinct | 19 | 30m | |||
| 29 | Hygarfefoapp | 18 | 30m | |||
| 30 |
| 28 | 36m |
adam demmert 10 weeks agoadam demmert 10 weeks ago
| ||
| 31 |
| 23 | 30m | |||
| 32 | Pumpernickel | 17 | 34m | |||
| 33 | Pumpernickel Variant Start | 15 | 14m | |||
| 34 |
| 24 | 30m | |||
| 35 |
| 26 | 20m | |||
| 36 |
| 23 | 25m | |||
| 37 | Kasolve | 19 | 48m | |||
| 38 |
| 25 | 20m | |||
| 39 |
Excellent. Thin and technical to start, and thuggish steep on good holds to finish. Well protected mega classic. Better than Blimp? Better than Pathos? Let you be the judge... Start: About 50-100m left of 'Manic Depressive' is an alcove with an east facing wall. DT is the major crack line going full height. FA: Chris Peisker, 1978 | 22 | 25m , 2 |
Garth Wimbush 3 months agoAnthony Cuskelly 5 months ago
| ||
| 40 |
| 20 | 27m | |||
| 41 |
| 24 | 35m |
simon bou 2 years agoGareth Llewellin 4 years ago
| ||
| 42 |
| 23 | 30m |
Phil Neville 4 years ago. 8 years ago
| ||
| 43 |
| 29 | 20m |
Safer Cliffs Victoria 8 years ago
| ||
| 44 |
| 17 | 30m |
Marcus Yong 8 years agoPaul Badenoch 14 years ago
| ||
| 45 |
A quality megapump Start: Around about 20m further along past 'Blimp' is a fantastic steep rising face. This is Manic. Please note that in March, 2007 a boardwalk and new cairn have been built by Steve Monks during a VCC & Parks 'Victoria' working bee. Please make sure you use them as the area has been deemed to be of cultural significance and basically people should stick to the board walk and not trample the surrounding area. FA: Greg Child, 1975 | 25 | 42m , 7 |
Dick 10 weeks agoSimon Madden 11 weeks ago
| ||
| 46 |
| 22 | 40m |
Adam Clay 3 weeks agoSimon Madden 11 weeks ago
| ||
| 47 |
FA: , 2007 | 22 | 15m |
. 1 years agoAndrew Clark 4 years ago
| ||
| 48 | Blimp Left Wall | 25 | 26m |
Will Monks 5 years agoNeil Monteith 5 years ago
| ||
| 49 |
A stunning corner crack, featuring sustained climbing with great rock and great gear all the way. Start: The major corner 20m right of 'Manic Depressive' FA: Bruno Zielke, John Ewbank (19M1), 1969 FFA: Joe Friend, Ian Lewis, 1974 | 21 | 39m |
Adam Clay 3 weeks agoadam demmert 10 weeks ago
| ||
| 50 |
| 26 | 30m | |||
| 51 |
Sustained thin face climbing on immaculate rock. Start: About 3m right of Blimb are some tiny holds under a high fixed hanger.
FA: Glenn Tempest, 1989 | 28 | 46m |
adam demmert 12 months ago. 8 years ago
| ||
| 52 |
| 25 | 60m |
Neil Monteith 5 years agoWill Monks 5 years ago
| ||
| 53 |
| 26 | 25m |
Dick 10 weeks ago
| ||
| 54 |
| 24 | 20m |
benjamin james eichler 4 years agobenjamin james eichler 4 years ago
| ||
| 55 | Reneeobskolosk | 20 | 48m | |||
| 56 | Infidel | 14 | 48m | |||
| 57 |
| 20 | 28m |
Phil Neville 5 years agoAlanna 5 years ago
| ||
| 58 | Blanketty Blank Direct Finish | 24 | 10m |
Heath McCrossin 8 years ago
| ||
| 59 |
Superb well protected climbing on great rock. Start: About 100m right of 'Blimp' is an attractive bleached arete. 'Pathos' takes the front of the arete up the seam. There is a subtle marking (chiseling) in the rock with the letter P and a square next to it (not painted). FA: Chris Peisker, 1977 | 21 | 57m |
Simon Madden 11 weeks agoadam demmert 10 weeks ago
| ||
| 60 | Sympathy | 21 | 25m | |||
| 61 | Lust | 22 | 28m | |||
| 62 | Cleopatra | 13 | 55m |
Paul Badenoch 14 years ago
| ||
| 63 | Cleopatra Direct Finish | 13 | 24m | |||
| 64 | Crash Dive | 19 | 25m | |||
| 65 |
Fantastic well protected climbing Start: The crack 7m right of Aquarius. FA: Robert Bull, Peter Jackson (alts), 1965 | 12 | 40m |
Keith Hannan 4 years agoVanessa Wills 4 years ago
| ||
| 66 | The Minch Variant Start | 15 | 18m | |||
| 67 |
Fantastic. Start: Start as for "The Minch" FA: Pete Cresswell, Cath Duffill, 1991 | 21 | 50m |
Simon Madden 11 weeks agoMatt Earsman 6 months ago
| ||
| 68 | Martin Rattler | 17 | 44m | |||
| 69 | Spot On | 16 | 48m | |||
| 70 | Spot On Variant Start | 11 | 15m | |||
| 71 | Flying Buttress | 17 | 45m | |||
| 72 |
Classic. Start: Climbs small corner above step in track. Initialed.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson (Alts), 1965 | 17 | 46m |
Andrew Clark 4 years agoVanessa Wills 4 years ago
| ||
| 73 |
| 10 | 15m | |||
| 74 | Gerontian Direct Finish | 14 | 12m |
James Scott-Bohanna 10 years ago
| ||
| 75 | Melon Was Here | 16 | 40m | |||
| 76 | Quandary | 14 | 51m | |||
| 77 |
| 23 | 57m |
Jeremy Goble 7 years agoSafer Cliffs Victoria 8 years ago
| ||
| 78 |
| 24 | 50m |
Safer Cliffs Victoria 8 years ago
| ||
| 79 |
| 22 | 35m |
Neil Monteith 8 years ago
| ||
| 80 |
| 23 | 70m |
. 1 years agoNeil Monteith 8 years ago
| ||
| 81 |
| 18 | 46m |
adam demmert 12 months ago
| ||
| 82 |
| 22 | 27m | |||
| 83 | Cocksure | 12 | 46m | |||
| 84 |
| 16 | 46m |
Andrew Scott 5 years agomatt schnabl 5 years ago
| ||
| 85 | The Frog Direct Finish | 9 | 21m | |||
| 86 |
| 16 | 65m |
Garth Wimbush 3 months agoPhil Neville 5 years ago
| ||
| 87 |
| 16 | 25m |
Neale Brain 5 years agoBryn Pears 5 years ago
| ||
| 88 |
| 14 | 20m |
david singleton 8 years agoNeil Monteith 14 years ago
| ||
| 89 | Handicock | 14 | 52m | |||
| 90 |
| 19 | 49m | |||
| 91 |
| 22 | 15m |
Matt Earsman 6 months ago
| ||
| 92 |
| 12 | 62m |
Garth Wimbush 3 months agoAndrew Clark 1 years ago
| ||
| 93 |
| 23 | 55m |
Craig Adam 11 years ago
| ||
| 94 | The Singular Raindrop | 13 | 29m | |||
| 95 | Ball Race | 20 | 30m | |||
| 96 |
| 24 | 48m | |||
| 97 | Castor | 12 | 27m | |||
| 98 |
| 17 | 84m |
Garth Wimbush 3 months agoSimon Madden 4 years ago
| ||
| 99 | Island Cruise | 18 | 30m |
adam demmert 10 weeks agoAndrew Clark 4 years ago
| ||
| 100 |
| 20 | 40m |
Neil Monteith 5 years ago
| ||
| 101 | Pollux | 8 | 27m | |||
| 102 | Abseil Arete | 14 | 30m |
Steven Broom 8 years ago
| ||
| 103 | Abseil Crack | 5 | 19m | |||
| 104 | Little Desert | 14 | 19m | |||
| 105 | The Gunk | 11 | 24m | |||
| 106 | Kerplunk | 17 | 22m | |||
| 107 | The Skunk | 11 | 27m | |||
| 108 | The Punk | 12 | 27m | |||
| 109 |
| 20 | 30m |
Garth Wimbush 3 months agoNeil Monteith 5 years ago
| ||
| 110 | Sunday Expose | 18 | 25m | |||
| 111 | Addition | 19 | 20m | |||
| 112 | Leftover | 4 | 24m | |||
| 113 | Pamular | 8 | 30m | |||
| 114 | Pamular Variant Start | 16 | ||||
| 115 | Primular | 12 | 28m | |||
| 116 |
| 19 | 20m | |||
| 117 |
Done in the pouring rain. Not really sure on the grade it felt harder than 17 but I was slipping around quite a lot at the time. Follow crack on wall right of easier climbs up right then change cracks and head back left. | 17 | 25m |
Paul "LittleMac" McWaters
| ||
| 118 | The Price You Pay | 19 | 20m | |||
| 119 | The Price You Pay Direct | 24 | 20m | |||
| 120 | Cop Out | 10 | 25m | |||
| 121 | Total Control | 20 | 23m | |||
| 122 | Don't Sneeze | 21 | 20m | |||
| 123 | Realm of Shades | 17 | 10m | |||
| 124 | Murph Delivers the Goods | 17 | 20m | |||
| 125 | Noises in the Night | 16 | 20m | |||
| 126 | They Must've Done It | 17 | 20m | |||
| 127 | New Front Ear | 8 | 18m | |||
| 128 | Bold Front | 21 | 20m | |||
| 129 | Annie's Mistake | 18 | 20m | |||
| 130 | (Unnamed) | 16 | ||||
| 131 | Gargoyles and Chicken Heads | 11 | 25m | |||
| 132 | They've Been at It Again | 13 | 22m | |||
| 133 | It's Another Boy | 11 | 20m | |||
| 134 | Cleopatra Alternate Finish | 14 | 20m | |||
| 135 | Aquarius Pitch Two Variant | 13 | 17m | |||
| 136 | Surfing With the Aliens | 27 | 20m | |||
| 137 | Yerba is the Word | 21 | 25m |
Neil Monteith 11 years ago
| ||
| 138 |
| 16 | 45m | |||
| 139 |
| 14 | 50m | |||
1.2. Bundaleer Lower Cliff 3 routes in Crag
- Summary:
- All Trad
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Spindrift | 19 | 21m | |||
| 2 | West End Live | 20 | 23m | |||
| 3 | Condemned to Live | 17 | 16m | |||
1.3. Calectasia Walls 2 routes in Crag
- Summary:
- All Trad
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Roma | 20 | 30m | |||
| 2 | Staphylococcus in My Boots | 18 | 35m | |||
1.4. Tower Hill 25 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad
Long/Lat: 142.484059, -37.207671
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Sickling | 16 | 10m | |||
| 2 | Tongue in Ya Ear | 13 | 13m | |||
| 3 | Genitalia Neurosis | 17 | 16m | |||
| 4 | The Grope | 16 | 15m | |||
| 5 | Dihedral Dork | 15 | 16m | |||
| 6 | Slopesville, Arizona | 10 | 14m | |||
| 7 | Stand in Line | 12 | 13m | |||
| 8 | Invictus | 6 | 12m | |||
| 9 | Black Tower Special | 19 | 15m | |||
| 10 | Pedestal Crack | 11 | 18m | |||
| 11 | Flying Low | 7 | 18m | |||
| 12 | Itim | 7 | 19m | |||
| 13 | Itimized | 16 | 15m | |||
| 14 | Miti | 8 | 13m | |||
| 15 | Girl Talk | 14 | 13m | |||
| 16 |
Bechervaise Route
FA: John Bechervaise, Chris Baxter, Mike Dexter, Tim Squire-Wilson, | 5 | 13m |
Neil Monteith 10 years agoAdrian Ridgley 28 years ago
| ||
| 17 | Exam Crack | 9 | 14m | |||
| 18 | Ravenscrux | 20 | 12m | |||
| 19 | Buttock Traveller | 19 | 10m | |||
| 20 |
| 19 | 15m | |||
| 21 | Rolf Baldwin's Climb | 15 | 10m | |||
| 22 | Jug Wall | 8 | 11m | |||
| 23 | Blood Crack | 9 | 8m | |||
| 24 | Stryletzia | 22 | 15m | |||
| 25 | Aspidistra | 13 | 15m | |||
1.5. Elephants Foot 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
- Trad,Aid
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Remains to be Seen | 16 | 20m | |||
| 2 |
| 20 M1 | 24m | |||
| 3 |
| 25 | 20m | |||
| 4 |
| 20 | 20m | |||
1.6. Equinox Walls 14 routes in Crag
- Summary:
- All Trad
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Too Tripped to Trot | 20 | 30m | |||
| 2 | Pocketed | 19 | 25m | |||
| 3 | Ornamental Belay | 17 | 25m | |||
| 4 | To the Manor Born | 14 | 25m | |||
| 5 |
| 16 | 25m | |||
| 6 | Fencing the Fridge | 20 | 22m | |||
| 7 | The Fall of Jerusalem | 15 | 22m | |||
| 8 |
| 18 | 22m | |||
| 9 | Heartland | 21 | 20m | |||
| 10 | Shingles | 19 | 20m | |||
| 11 | Crescent Moon | 15 | 25m | |||
| 12 | Boy Racer | 15 | 25m | |||
| 13 | Catching the Rainbow | 15 | 25m | |||
| 14 | Random Acts of Violence | 17 | 25m | |||
1.7. Western Wall 17 routes in Crag
- Summary:
- All Trad
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
| 18 | 15m | |||
| 2 |
| 19 | 16m | |||
| 3 | A Close Thing | 14 | 17m | |||
| 4 | A Close Thing Direct Finish | 17 | 5m | |||
| 5 | Publish or Perish | 16 | 19m | |||
| 6 | Misery | 19 | 12m | |||
| 7 | A Distant Relation | 15 | 16m | |||
| 8 | Days of Wine and Roses | 15 | 16m | |||
| 9 |
| 16 | 16m | |||
| 10 | Left in the Lurch | 13 | 14m | |||
| 11 |
| 19 | 14m | |||
| 12 | Cruise Control | 16 | 14m | |||
| 13 | Little Wing | 20 | 14m | |||
| 14 | Show and Tell | 18 | 16m | |||
| 15 | Swamp Harrier | 18 | 18m | |||
| 16 | Samakand | 16 | 15m | |||
| 17 | Sanity Break | 18 | 15m | |||
1.8. Stony Peak 1 route in Crag
- Summary:
- All Trad
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Nipper | 14 | 20m | |||
