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Bundaleer Area
Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd |
Bundaleer
Fantastic climbing from grade 12 to 28. Superb rock and home to the mega classics Scarab (12*), 'The Minch' (12), Basilisk (16), Odysseus (17*), "Blimp" (20), "Pathos" (21*), 'Flying Circus' (21*), 'Dagon's Temple' (22), Stone Ocean (22), Genesis Direct (24), 'Manic Depressive' (25), Ostler (25*), 'Angular Perspective' (28), The Ogive (28), 'Touchstone Pictures' (28**). Check out Chris Baxter's "South Eastern Grampians" guide (1991) for a full listing until this guide supersedes it. Glenn Tempest & Simon Mentz also have a good select guide to the 'Grampians' which is still in print. |
Bundaleer |
Far Left End |
27
Surfing With the Aliens
Slabby seam with offset edges on far left end of cliff. Shallow corners 15m left of Whitebait. Three eye-bolts. Crack above. Advisable to stick clip the first BR. Rapchains. |
27
★ Whitebait
Thin offset seam with ringbolts. This looks like a massive sandbag. Prepare to be humbled! |
M3
Bash-hook
6m right of Whitebait, old bolt at start? |
22
★★ Pyjamaland
Technical stemming! Up short finger crack, sling the top of the flake, then stem up past RB to corner. Keep stemming to top past another two RBs to lower-off. Trad for the start and finish. Rebolted 2015 |
21
★ Yerba is the Word
Bouldery start on pockets up little prow (RBs). Trad from half way to Lower-off. Retrobolted 2015. Initialled. First climb on smooth, grey wall 20m right of Pyjamaland. Low BR. |
14
American Pie
Initialed. Start below left end of high roofs. Wanders and is loose and fithly. |
15
Terror Australis
65 mright of AP. Initialled. Also wandering, probably loose and filthy. |
6
Terror Australis Variant Finish
Everything left of 'Pathos' is now closed. More info here: https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/plans-and-projects/gariwerd-protections-information-sheet---aug2020.pdf |
17
Impromptu
Off width corner crack 6m right of TA |
11 M5
Whale
Sickle shaped corner 5m right of Impromptu. May still have 2 old bolts. |
19
Tour de Farce
Diagonal crack right of Whale |
19
Wall of the Wad
Loose sandy wall between TF and T |
21
Ferrets and Faggots
Start as foTF, traverse left then up past old bolt |
18
★ Tiddler
Short crack 20m right of Whale. The 1991 guide makes all these routes sound awful and they've probably only gotten worse. |
18
★ Athos
Left of descent gully (left of camping cave) is a wall with a small cave. Thin crack just right of left arête, past bulge,then horizontal break. |
16
★ I'll Be
Loose arete on left side of descent gully |
17
★ Porthos
Line in middle of face, bulge, thin finish. |
16
Aramis
Up to bulge just right of Porthos. Up |
Camping Cave
The big sandy cave near the left end of the cliff, sprouting various bolts and steep climbs. |
20
★★ Wedding Cake Island
Traverses the lip of the camping cave from Left end in 3 pitches. |
26
★★ Skulthuggery
Start 10m left of Angular Perspective.Up steeply past six FHs to lip. |
27
★★ Angular Perspective (to first chain)
Everything left of 'Pathos' is now closed. More info here: https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/plans-and-projects/gariwerd-protections-information-sheet---aug2020.pdf |
28
★★★ Angular Perspective
Steep and sustained. An early HB endurofest. Start: Some way left of 'Manic Depressive' at the left end of the camping cave |
28
★★ Free-Snaking Thru' the Eighth Dimension
BRs 10m right of AP, eventually joins AP |
24
Seamy Side
Crack between Free Snaking Through The Eight Dimension and The Unknown Soldier. |
15 M4
The Unkown Soldier
Initialled. Old bolts to thin roof crack |
22
★★ Psycho Bunny
A daunting ride, especially across the final five-metre diagonal roof. At the undercut wall about 18m L of The Sandman. Stick-clip the high ring to start. Eight glue-in ring bolts in total. Lower-off. |
22
★ Enter Sandman
Sandy. Boulder up right of cave below first BR on, and 1m right of Fistful Of Steel. Diagonally left from third BR(above bulge) past BR to chain |
22
★ Exit Sandman
The logical extension of 'Enter Sandman', clip the chains, continue up to a RB then traverse right and exit the roof to meet the anchor of 'Sad But True'. |
20
★★ Sad But True
Starts up 'Enter Sandman' and continues up the steep wall past three new rings to finish through the reachy overhang on 'Exit Sandman'. The most logical way to climb this wall and with no rope drag issues. Originally led on trad as a trad linkup of two sport routes! |
9
Gargoyle
50m left of US at first break in roof. Wandering and probably loose and filthy. A fine choice for the first route at Bundaleer. |
19
Fertility Instinct
Crap rock, crap gear. Dark streak 3m left of H. |
24
Fistful of Steel
Seam, then buttress 4m right of Hygarfefoapp to chain. |
18
Hygarfefoapp
More of the same. Initialled weakness 37m right of G, 25m left of The Ogive. |
28
★★★ The Ogive
THE line through the first major cave (which is not the camping cave). Funky, awesome, full body workout. Be wary of the old carrots. After the start, there is plenty of good gear. Rap station above lip. |
Dagon's Alcove
The shady sector up left of Manic Depressive. |
23
★★ Dark Passage
Big grit arete that has been retrobolted into a more popular route. The original climb had four less bolts! Start on high slabby platform on right edge of the Ogive cave. Belayer should belay from ground. Place a cam in a break then swing left off the platform onto arete. Up it past 3 RBs to slabby seam crack on left side of arete. Up this (trad) then swing through steepness above (two RBs + cams) to lower-off anchor. Classic! |
17
Pumpernickel
Chimney behind boulder of DP. Old BR and PR. |
15
Pumpernickel Variant Start
Everything left of 'Pathos' is now closed. More info here: https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/plans-and-projects/gariwerd-protections-information-sheet---aug2020.pdf |
24
★ Front Line
Crack across wall right of P. Up wall to crack then into K. |
26
★★ Gotham City
Straight up wall of FL. rebolted 2017 |
23
★ Tough Tips
Wall right of FL past 2RB into K. There is now a lower off. |
19
★ Kasolve
The left corner of the alcove containing Dagon's Temple. Gear and rock not always great. Lower off at top. |
25
★ Berlin Wall
Rebolted with ringbolts 2015, wall, seam then pockets starting from block right of K. |
22
★★★ Dagon's Temple
Excellent. Thin and technical to start, and thuggish steep on good holds to finish. Well protected mega classic. Better than Blimp? Better than Pathos? Let you be the judge... Take a bolt plate. Start: About 50-100m left of 'Manic Depressive' is an alcove with an east facing wall. DT is the major crack line going full height. |
20
★ Jane
Corner right of DT, often wet. |
24
★ Masters of Pox
Rebolted with ringbolts 2015 + 1FH to start. |
Touchstone Sector
Home to several of the most famous and visually appealing routes at Bundaleer. The landmark is the well chalked corner of Blimp, and the bolted face route to it's right - Touchstone Pictures. |
23
★ Morepox
The arete with a few bolts left of Narcotic |
29
★ The Castlereagh Line
Bolted seam to anchor between Narcotic and Morepox |
17
★★ Narcotic
Steep, offwidth corner left of Manic. After corner, traverse right and follow your nose to top. |
25
★★ Manic Depressive
Jumping off the stool instead of just pulling on drops it to 24. Start: Around about 20m further along past 'Blimp' is a fantastic steep rising face. This is Manic. Please note that in March, 2007 a boardwalk and new cairn have been built by Steve Monks during a VCC & Parks 'Victoria' working bee. Please make sure you use them as the area has been deemed to be of cultural significance and basically people should stick to the board walk and not trample the surrounding area. |
22
★★ Lunging for Melons
A popular short sport route. The original trad route wandered up to the top of the cliff by traversing over left into the choss above Manic. Fixed up with modernity. |
24
★ Lunging For Melons Extension
This is the obvious extension to Lunging for Melons, linking Lunging for Melons into Blimp Left Wall. Continue past the anchor of LFM past 3 more ring bolts to the Blimp anchor. |
23
★★ Zeppelin
Stick-clip the first ring-bolt from the base of Blimp. Step onto the L wall. At the sixth bolt there is a tricky reach L to gain a poor knob. Continue straight up the technical wall above passing another two bolts to Blimp's lower-off anchor. |
20
★★★ Blimp
A stunning corner crack, featuring sustained climbing with great rock and great gear all the way. Start: The major corner 20m right of 'Manic Depressive' |
26
★★★ Dive Dive Dive
Traverses into TP from Blimp |
28
★★★ Touchstone Pictures
Sustained thin face climbing on immaculate rock. **6th bolt tightened with wrench 24/11/2018 - keep an eye on it though. Start: About 3m right of Blimp are some tiny holds beside 2 RB’s.
|
25
★★ Ostler
Thin steep corner 18m right of Blimp. Many rap off after the first pitch, but you can continue up the corner at 21. |
26
★★ The Beckoning
Start up Ostler, then climb arête above (four BRs) to abseil station. |
25
★★ Bliss
3m right of ostler, groove and wall to join ostler. 3 bolts, might be from 1983. |
24
★★ Sparrows
Starts up corner then break into unlikely double huecos. Finishes up little arête 5m right of bliss. Recommend stick clipping 1st bolt. |
20
Reneeobskolosk
4m right of bliss, described as "the rotten line". |
14
Infidel
Chimney 1m right of R |
Pathos Sector |
20
★★ Blanketty Blank
Groove and wall left of Pathos until you can step right to join that route above the crux |
24
★ Blanketty Blank Direct Finish
Straight up above first part of Blanketty Blank. Thin! |
21
★★★ Pathos
Superb well protected climbing on great rock. Start: About 100m right of 'Blimp' is an attractive bleached arete. 'Pathos' takes the front of the arete up the seam. There is a subtle marking (chiseling) in the rock with the letter P and a square next to it (not painted). |
21
Sympathy
Everything left of 'Pathos' is now closed. More info here: https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/plans-and-projects/gariwerd-protections-information-sheet---aug2020.pdf |
22
★★ Lust
Fine orange wall between Pathos and Cleopatra. One BR. |
13
Cleopatra
Chimney 1m right of P |
13
Cleopatra Direct Finish
Everything left of 'Pathos' is now closed. More info here: https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/plans-and-projects/gariwerd-protections-information-sheet---aug2020.pdf |
19
Crash Dive
Rib and arete 1m right of C |
The Minch Sector |
23
★ Unknown
|
12
★ The Minch
Old fashioned fun up the deep chimney crack 25m right of Pathos and just left of the prow of Flying Circus. |
15
★ The Minch Variant Start
Crack 8m righ of Minch to cave leading into M, 3 old PR |
21
★★ Flying Circus
Wandering and not that well protected, the main thing going for this climb is the eventual position out on the arete. Up the minch until traverse on pockets out to the arete and up. Start: Start as for "The Minch" |
17
Martin Rattler
Chimney 10m right of MVS, then wanders all over the shop. |
16
Spot On
Initialled and chimney 9m right of MR |
11
Spot On Variant Start
Everything left of 'Pathos' is now closed. More info here: https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/plans-and-projects/gariwerd-protections-information-sheet---aug2020.pdf |
Gerontian Sector |
17
★★ Flying Buttress
Best done in 3 pitches. P1: Climb pitch one of Gerontian. P2: Careful rope management required. Traverse left off belay ledge along horizontal rail past piton to exposed position on arete. Climb left side of arete on good holds, before traversing back right to arete proper. Up steeply on right side of arete to a small belay ledge. P3: Up arete to top (poor rock) or alternatively traverse right to the last pitch of Gerontian. |
17
★★ Gerontian
Classic. Start: Climbs small corner above boulder blocking track. Initialed. Good to link pitch 2 and 3. The Pitch 2 crux can be protected with Camalot 4s and a 5 and/or micro wires and a rusty piton.
|
10
★★ Gerontian Variant Start
undercut crack 3m left of original start. |
15
★★ Gerontian Direct Finish
Continue straight up hand crack above the 2nd belay |
17
Orange Tin
Good combination/link up route with two sections of new climbing. Start 5m right of Gerontion.
|
16
Melon Was Here
Wanders up wall to join Gerontian in some vague manner. |
14
Quandary
Same, somewhere 5m right of Gerontian |
Genesis Wall |
23
★★ Genesis
Corner in middle of wall right of Gerontian then escape right by reversing Odysseus below old bolts. |
24
★★★ Genesis Direct
Continue up wall above the corner past 2 bolts to cracked overhang |
22
★★ Stone Ocean
Arete above belay on Moloch. |
23
★★★ Genesis-Stone Ocean
Everything left of 'Pathos' is now closed. More info here: https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/plans-and-projects/gariwerd-protections-information-sheet---aug2020.pdf |
18
★ Moloch
Steep jam crack behind conifer (which may be dead by now) right of Genesis to ledge. First pitch is great, then meander to the top however. |
22
★ Moloch Variant
Everything left of 'Pathos' is now closed. More info here: https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/plans-and-projects/gariwerd-protections-information-sheet---aug2020.pdf |
Basilisk Sector |