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Table of contents
- 1. Central Grampians
638 in Crag
- 1.1. Epacris Cliffs 17 in Crag
Boreang Campsite Area 14 in Crag
- 1.2.1. Paddys Castle 14 in Cliff
- 1.3. Bundaleer Area 203 in Crag
- 1.4. Mt Rosea 194 in Crag
- 1.5. Henham Track Area 62 in Crag
- 1.6. Eastern Wall Cliffs 138 in Crag
- 1.7. Castle Rock 10 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
|6||Ghost Who Walks||13||35m|
|4||Now You See Me, Now You Don't||15||25m|
|3||End of the Decade||16||30m|
Long/Lat: 142.396028, -37.177977
Long/Lat: 142.396152, -37.177855
To be Slim, To be Slim
Burrow through the thin hole just L of The Last Rites.
FA: Richard Eustace and friends, 2003
|2||The Last Rights of Rory O'Meally||18||10m|
|4||Irish Weetbix Variant Start||16||18m|
Doing a Line
As for ABoC for 5m, then a thin move up L, and up the surprisingly sustained wall between IWVS and ABoC. Direct through centre of top bulge using small roof flake. Looks lichenous but all holds were cleaned during/after FA.
FA: Will Monks, Heather Murray, Ben Wright, 2003
A Bit of Craic
The crack just L of D, gained by way of tricky orange cracks L of corner. 12 if orange cracks are avoided by climbing D for 6m.
FA: Ben Wright, Jack, Richard Eustace, Will Monks, 2003
A bit of everything on nice rock, but struggles for the star. Textbook handcrack 3m L of F, through L end of roof, thuggish short thin crack, then thin slab L of black streak to roof. Hand traverse R to airy mantle. Short corner crack to top.
FA: Will Monks, Ben Wright, 2003
|13||Wee Bit of Blarney||16||14m|
Long/Lat: 142.474872, -37.198559
Long/Lat: 142.476186, -37.189902
- Description:© (jgoding)
Fantastic climbing from grade 12 to 28. Superb rock and home to the mega classics Scarab (12*), 'The Minch' (12), Basilisk (16), Odysseus (17*), "Blimp" (20), "Pathos" (21*), 'Flying Circus' (21*), Dragon's Temple (22), Stone Ocean (22), Genisis Direct (24), 'Manic Depressive' (25), Ostler (25*), 'Angular Perspective' (28), The Ogive (28), 'Touchstone Pictures' (28**). Check out Chris Baxter's "South Eastern Grampians" guide (1991) for a full listing until this guide supersedes it. Glenn Tempest & Simon Mentz also have a good select guide to the 'Grampians' which is still in print.
- Approach:© (jgoding)
'Bundaleer' is on the Rosea Track. This can be accessed from Halls Gap by travelling around 8kms up the Mt Victory Rd and turning left into Glenelg River Rd. Take a left turn into Stony Creek Rd and follow it to the locked gate where it intersects with Rosea Track. Turn right at Rosea Track and you will find the access track on the right opposite a small parking area. Even though the road is closed a bit beyond here please park well off the road as Rosea Track is used for fire access.
Bush camping is currently prohibited in the fire affected areas of the park - "including the cave at Bundaleer".
The Boreang camp ground is on Glenelg River Rd beyond its intersection with Stony Creek Rd. (Camp fees apply.) It has 15 campsites (sheltered and open), toilets, 8 picnic tables and 8 fireplaces. Note that fires can only be lit in the designated fireplaces. Note also that there is "no" drinking water.
There are other camp grounds such as Borough Huts and Smiths Mill in the area that also have good facilities.
The access track leaves the road just over from the car parking bay. The track reaches the cliff just near Scarab. To access the routes to the right of Scarab there is a track branching to the right before a large boulder just before it meets the cliff.
Please use, and stick to, the track to access the cliff. It is important that no new tracks are made through the parts of hillside that are still trying to recover from the fire. There is still a lot of vegetation trying to establish itself in the area and it is important for stability that it be allowed to grow unimpeded. For those who remember it, the track used to follow the creek further up the hill and emerged at a "cave" formed by two large boulders. "This track is now closed and should not be used."
|6||Terror Australis Variant Finish||6||15m|
|9||Tour de Farce||19||30m|
|10||Wall of the Wad||19||30m|
|11||Ferrets and Faggots||21||30m|
|17||Wedding Cake Island||20|
Angular Perspective (to first chain)
Steep and sustained. An early HB endurofest.
Start: Some way left of 'Manic Depressive' at the left end of the camping cave
FA: Malcolm (HB) Matheson, 1983
|21||Free-Snaking Thru' the Eighth Dimension||28||10m|
|23||The Unkown Soldier||15 M4||233m|
Fistful of Steel
FA: Matt Brooks
FA: Neil Monteith, 2004
|33||Pumpernickel Variant Start||15||14m|
Excellent. Thin and technical to start, and thuggish steep on good holds to finish. Well protected mega classic. Better than Blimp? Better than Pathos? Let you be the judge...
Start: About 50-100m left of 'Manic Depressive' is an alcove with an east facing wall. DT is the major crack line going full height.
FA: Chris Peisker, 1978
|41||Masters of Pox||24||35m|
|43||The Castlereagh Line||29||20m|
A quality megapump
Start: Around about 20m further along past 'Blimp' is a fantastic steep rising face. This is Manic. Please note that in March, 2007 a boardwalk and new cairn have been built by Steve Monks during a VCC & Parks 'Victoria' working bee. Please make sure you use them as the area has been deemed to be of cultural significance and basically people should stick to the board walk and not trample the surrounding area.
FA: Greg Child, 1975
Lunging for Melons
A popular short sport route. The original route wandered up to the top of the cliff by traversing over left into the choss above Manic.
FA: Original - Russ Clune & Mike Law, 1983
FA: Direct Finish - Neil Monteith, 2007
Lunging For Melons Extension
FFA: Adam Demmert, 31st Dec
|48||Blimp Left Wall||25||26m|
A stunning corner crack, featuring sustained climbing with great rock and great gear all the way.
Start: The major corner 20m right of 'Manic Depressive'
FA: Bruno Zielke, John Ewbank (19M1), 1969
FFA: Joe Friend, Ian Lewis, 1974
|50||Dive Dive Dive||26||30m|
Sustained thin face climbing on immaculate rock.
Start: About 3m right of Blimb are some tiny holds under a high fixed hanger.
FA: Glenn Tempest, 1989
|58||Blanketty Blank Direct Finish||24||10m|
Superb well protected climbing on great rock.
Start: About 100m right of 'Blimp' is an attractive bleached arete. 'Pathos' takes the front of the arete up the seam. There is a subtle marking (chiseling) in the rock with the letter P and a square next to it (not painted).
FA: Chris Peisker, 1977
|63||Cleopatra Direct Finish||13||24m|
Fantastic well protected climbing
Start: The crack 7m right of Aquarius.
FA: Robert Bull, Peter Jackson (alts), 10th Jul
|66||The Minch Variant Start||15||18m|
Start: Start as for "The Minch"
FA: Pete Cresswell, Cath Duffill, 1991
|70||Spot On Variant Start||11||15m|
Start: Climbs small corner above step in track. Initialed.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson (Alts), 5th Dec
|73||Gerontian Variant Start||10||15m|
|74||Gerontian Direct Finish||14||12m|
|75||Melon Was Here||16||40m|
|85||The Frog Direct Finish||9||21m|
|87||Basilisk Direct Finish||16||25m|
|94||The Singular Raindrop||13||29m|
|96||We Don't Like Slopes||24||48m|
Starts about 80m right of 'Island Cruise' on wall with a grey seam up the middle. Traverse in from right to avoid roof, then up the wall. Descent by abseiling off tree 30m to left (facing in, 25m).
|114||Pamular Variant Start||16|
|116||Born to be a Turkey||19||20m|
Raindrops Keep Falling on my Head
Done in the pouring rain. Not really sure on the grade it felt harder than 17 but I was slipping around quite a lot at the time. Follow crack on wall right of easier climbs up right then change cracks and head back left.
|118||The Price You Pay||19||20m|
|119||The Price You Pay Direct||24||20m|
|123||Realm of Shades||17||10m|
|124||Murph Delivers the Goods||17||20m|
|125||Noises in the Night||16||20m|
|126||They Must've Done It||17||20m|
|127||New Front Ear||8||18m|
|131||Gargoyles and Chicken Heads||11||25m|
|132||They've Been at It Again||13||22m|
|133||It's Another Boy||11||20m|
|134||Cleopatra Alternate Finish||14||20m|
|135||Aquarius Pitch Two Variant||13||17m|
|136||Surfing With the Aliens||27||20m|
|137||Yerba is the Word||21||25m|
|2||West End Live||20||23m|
|3||Condemned to Live||17||16m|
|2||Staphylococcus in My Boots||18||35m|
Long/Lat: 142.484059, -37.207671
|2||Tongue in Ya Ear||13||13m|
|7||Stand in Line||12||13m|
|9||Black Tower Special||19||15m|
FA: John Bechervaise, Chris Baxter, Mike Dexter, Tim Squire-Wilson
|20||Chic to Chic||19||15m|
|21||Rolf Baldwin's Climb||15||10m|
Trad and Aid
|1||Remains to be Seen||16||20m|
|3||The Cut Runs Deep||25||20m|
|1||Too Tripped to Trot||20||30m|
|4||To the Manor Born||14||25m|
|6||Fencing the Fridge||20||22m|
|7||The Fall of Jerusalem||15||22m|
|13||Catching the Rainbow||15||25m|
|14||Random Acts of Violence||17||25m|
The extensive escarpment north of Bundaleer is mostly juggy and of no interest. The exceptions are a pair of attractive buttresses near tghe east end, near the junction of Stony Creek Road and the Mount Rosea Track and another wall 200 metres right of these..
From the road junction walk south-west on flat at foot of rising ground for about ten minutes. Now up a little to the left (east) to west-facing pair of buttresses.
|1||Dogs Outside the Eternal City||18||15m|
|2||The Kingdom of Nothingness||19||16m|
|3||A Close Thing||14||17m|
|4||A Close Thing Direct Finish||17||5m|
|5||Publish or Perish||16||19m|
|7||A Distant Relation||15||16m|
|8||Days of Wine and Roses||15||16m|
|9||The Illusion of Power||16||16m|
|10||Left in the Lurch||13||14m|
|14||Show and Tell||18||16m|
Long/Lat: 142.503106, -37.192664
- Unique Features And Strengths:
Mount Rosea is one of the premier adventure climbing crags in 'Victoria'. At its best it offers superb grey stone set just on or just below vertical for three or four pitches.
With the base of the climbs at 800 metres the cliff is good for climbing in all but the hottest weather despite facing north-east with few permanently shaded area. However it can get very cold when it goes into the shade in mid-afternoon even on otherwise fine days.
For ease of finding routes the cliff is described in five blocks. First there are the three main climbing areas: 'Left side', 'Giant's Staircase' and 'Main Cliff'. Left are the climbs below and left of the Giant's Staircase. Giant's Staircase has the climbs left of the landmark of 'Tourist Buttress' and then left and up the Giant's Staircase. Main Cliff' has all the climbs on 'Tourist Buttress' and to the right from there. Then there are the fairly worthless Northern and Summit cliffs which can be ignored by anyone not utterly desperate for new routes.
All documented climbs should be in here though not all have topos.
Useful Info: This is not a good cliff for beginners. Many of the easier climbs tend to be poorly protected and follow complex routes offering many opportunities to stray into hostile territory. The "serious" flag has been liberally applied to these climbs. To enjoy leading at Rosea you should be leading about grade 14 trad.
The cliff suffers from the scourge of the "select" guidebook. Routes that are not in the "select" guide tend to be rarely climbed and are becoming dirty.
Many years ago the starts of most of the climbs were marked with a small white square and the initials of the climb name. While it makes the start of the climbs easier to find it is not a practise that should be encouraged and the initials are not being redone as they fade. Where the initials are still visible they are referred to as either clear (visible from some metres away), faded (easy to see when close), or faint (there but easily missed). It's interesting that people have been known to do the wrong climb by relying on the initials: there are 3 climbs at Rosea with the clearly visible initials CC at the start.
- Access Issues:
The final access restrictions at Rosea were lifted prior to Easter 2013.
Take Grampians Road (Halls Gap - Wartook road) to the Sundial turn-off. Follow this for a few kilometres to the Rosea parking area. From here follow the Mount Rosea walking track for about 5 minutes until a well-defined track goes off to the left and a walking track signpost indicates that the walking track continues straight ahead. Take the track on the left which contours across the slope and eventually a series of hairpin bends lead to the foot of the cliff. Please don't cut the corners on these bends as the hillside erodes easily.
Descent for the majority of the climbs on the main faces is via a walk along the walking track at the top and down the Giant's Staircase. For climbs on Main Cliff' and Giant' Staircase, follow the walking track towards the summit (south-east). For climbs on the Left side, follow the walking track away from the summit. The turn-off to the Giant's Staircase is sometimes marked with tape or cairns (current Nov 2013). It is not really obvious but it is just a little towards the summit side from a low point on the track. GPS reading for top of Giants Staircase: 37.190150 S, 142.502186 E. Try not to make any additional trails in this area. Hopefully a sign will be erected here at some stage showing the people on the main track which way they should be going.
This cliff, well to the right of the main climbing area is glaringly obvious from the walking track. However it's also obvious why so little interest has been shown in it. Natural protection is sparse and vast amounts of loose rock will have to be removed first if you're to remain sane (and keep your head). The cliff has received more than one visit from climbers but this is the only climbing that has been done.
This cliff has not yet been visited to check any details.
- Approach:© (kieranl)
Walk up the Mount Rosea Track for five minutes until the cliff is visible above. Head straight up through open bush, then on scree. Grid Reference 327834.
Very loose with dubious pro.
Start: About two-thirds of the way along the cliff (from the left) is a cairned, square-cut grey groove.
FA: Wayne Maher, Chris Baxter, 1992
Long/Lat: 142.505000, 37.193000
The left side of Rosea is the area below the Giant's Staircase and moving left from there. Unfortunately the upper sections of the climbs here tend to break down and there can be a lot of dirt and bushes in these parts. This does tend to detract from what are often high quality lower pitches. It is not until the area around The Last Act is reached that the climbing could be said to be good all of the way to the top. Still, there are many great climbing experiences here. You could do a lot worse than setting out to climb all of the Dewhirst/Zielke routes done in 1969-70.
Head off left at the third hair-pin bend on the walking-track. The route across below the cliffs is currently somewhat overgrown and rough and there is some fallen timber.
- Descent Notes:
Climbs close to 'The Last Act' can abseil down this route either from the terrace at the top of 'Dinosaur Gully' or the very top. Requires 2 x 50m ropes. Alternatively follow the walking track back along the cliff-top to the top of the Giant Staircase which may be marked by tape and/or cairns and is at 37.190150 S, 142.502186 E
OK face climbing on good rock. Not a bad climb to fill out the day. The start and finish will be dirty .
Start: Where the access pad reaches the cliff at a thin seam at the right hand side of a smooth wall.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Peter Cunningham, 1981
Out On A Limb
Lovely face climbing. The first 5m shared with 'Shadrach' isn't as bad as it looks. It's a good idea to reserve two #1 (Red) and one #2(Gold) Camalots or equivalent for above the bolts. Start as for 'Shadrach'. Up, chimneying between tree and face. Move out right on the horizontal tree-trunk to BR. Climb face right of crack past another BR to tree belay and abseil (or finish up 'Shadrach').
FA: @kieranl,James McIntosh, 18th Jan
Loose blocks, old bolts and pitons (yum, yum). Could be OK, you never know.
Start: Below left-facing corner with faded initial S
FA: John Moore, Bruce Osborne (alt), 1966
Shadrach Direct Start
This harder start to 'Shadrach' is something of a mystery as there are two possibilities for where it goes.
The obvious line is the attractive orange groove almost directly above the start of the pitch. The major problem with this is that it wouldn't naturally finish at the tree at the top of the first pitch, it would go straight up unto the second pitch. There's no mention of the long traverse that would be required to get to the tree. There's also the problem of no apparent protection for quite a way after the ledge at 6 metres.
The other possibility is to move back right from the ledge at 6 metres into the corner left of the wide crack of the first pitch of 'Shadrach'. This traverse isn't mentioned but there appears to be a peg scar in this corner and the line goes to the tree belay. The major problem with this option is that the block in the corner appears to be suicidally dangerous.
The description is taken from the existing sources and doesn't make a choice between the two options.
Start: Seven metres left of 'Shadrach' under an orange groove.
FA: Ian Ross, Barry Noye., 1967
The weak wordplay in the name may have been vaguely amusing in the early seventies but even that value has long gone. Avoid it.
FA: Keith Lockwood , Andrew Thomson (alt), 1973
Memories of Provence
Supposed to be good climbing on all pitches. Lovely grey and orange rock on the first pitch.
Start: Start at small undercut corner 10m right of Big Boys Don't Cry.
FA: Jeremy Boreham, Phillip McMillan, 1997
Big Boys Don't Cry
Fairly good but the start is a bit scarey and there's a dangerous boulder on the third pitch. Maybe take the alternate start and drop the grade to 18.
Start: Short smooth corner capped by a roof just right of 'Meshach'.
FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran (var). Alternate start : Phillip McMillan, Jeremy Boreham, 1997
|8||Big Boys Don't Cry Alternate Start||18||15m|
Excellent sustained climbing, especially on the first half. Dirt and bushes detract from the latter half of the climb. Originally done in three pitches.
FA: Bruno Zielke, Chris Dewhirst (alt), 1969
May be worth a look.
Start: Start as for 'Abednego'
FA: Richard Evans, John Stone, 1984
Some good climbing but again it's a bit scrubby and doesn't inspire as much as its neighbours for some reason.
FA: Bruno Zielke, Chris Dewhirst (alt), 1969
Bushwalking With Gordon
Maybe a good first pitch but the name gives more than a hint of what's on offer.
Start: As for 'Cream'
FA: Mark Poustie, Campbell Mercer, 1993
Great face climbing on first pitch.
FA: Tim Beaman, Roland Pauligk (alt), 1977
The brilliant first pitch originally involved desperate and dangerous aid (M7) on which Noddy learned how to place RURPs. He also placed his first bong in what should have been his first good runner at the end of the crux. However Noddy didn't know how to use bongs so he put it in sideways and carried on in blissfull ignorance.
The free version avoids the RURP seam by easier climbing just to the left. Take a full rack from RP 0 to #4 Cam.
The upper pitches are much easier so parties abseil after pitch one (bring some tat for the bolts) and it seems that no-one has bothered freeing the second pitch. The third pitch had it's single aid point eliminated at the giddy grade of 10.
Start: Start by the column leaning against the cliff.
FFA: pitch 3 Chris Baxter 1980s
FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter (alt), 1969
FFA: pitch 1: Kim Carrigan, Steve Monks, 1986
Dramatic line with sustained climbing. You only get the tick if you do all of the climb.
Start: Corner 10 metres left of 'Coronary Country'
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Bruno Zielke (alt), 1969
Lovely first pitch but then deteriorates a bit though quite sustained and not well protected on pitch 2. Have given it a star for the first pitch. This was the last of the climbs put up at Rosea by the Dewhirst/Zielke team from 1969-70.
Start: Start as for 'Gillian'.
FA: Bruno Zielke, Chris Dewhirst (alt) and Fred Langenhorst, 1970
Savage looking corner leads into overhanging, undercut crack. Looks very dramatic and with lovely rock but first pitch has poor protection and the third pitch deteriorates. Probably worth a star but needs a repeat by a sufficiently strong climber.
Start: Smooth wall below a steep left-facing corner about 10 metres left of 'Ma Cherie'.
FA: Tim Beaman, Sylia Lazarnick, 1977
Very sustained with mostly OK protection but the third pitch has a poorly protected corner. Expect to find a bit of dirt as it is rarely climbed but it is worth it.
Start: Below the major corner about 20m left of Gillian/Ma Cherie.
FA: Bruno Zielke, Chris Dewhirst (alt), 1970
Awkward seam leads to lovely crack system that has tantalised climbers for over two decades. A long sling will be needed for the rap-anchor.
Start: Start 5m left of 'Renate' at a seam that marks the right end of smooth orange wall capped by an overhang.
FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, 1994
Here Comes The Bride
Wandering route starting up 'Cry Freedom' and finishing up what are probably the last two pitches of 'Royal Blues'. Has a hard start and finish but is unlikely to be popular. Start as for 'Cry Freedom'
FA: Chris Baxter, Kieran Loughran (alt), 2001
Twitter and Bisted
Steep wall with a terrible-looking bolt leading to roof and then a lot of easier climbing.
Start: Just before the track next to the stops abruptly below a terrible-looking bolt at 4m.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Glenn Tempest, Geoff Gledhill, 1983
An attractive seam up a smooth wall to an overhang still has one or two aids on the overhang and should go free to a tall climber. However, as usual the climbing eases off dramatically after the first thirty or forty metres.
The aspiring aid climber can view the bathook holes at the start and salivate. Bear in mind that the carrot bolt runners are aid, not protection, bolts
Start: Below the obvious seam up the smooth wall.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter (var)., 1969
FA: Mostly free : Steve Monks, Ginette Harrison, 1994
A great first pitch up the corner but then the climbing eases dramatically and deteriorates in the second half of the climb.
Start: Below the huge corner on the left side of the smooth wall, just right of the large overhang. Clear initials BB.
FA: Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood (var). Pitch two freed by Peter Lindorff in. First pitch cut to two aids by Tim Beaman and Sylvia Laznarick in 1977. Freed by Kim Carrigan 1978., 1969
FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978
Wandering and serious for the grade. The start is unattractive and overall it's not very appealing.
Start: Start at the left end of the grotty wall left of the big overhang (front of buttress down right from "Vee Wee").
FA: Geoff Shaw, Chris Davis (alt)., 2nd Sep
Wanders too much and crux is harder and more poorly protected than the rest of the climb.
Start: Start as for 'Vee Wee'.
FA: Mike Stone, Chris Baxter (alt), 1975
Bad Moon Rising
Good second pitch, which originally had a lot of aid, including sky and bat hooks, but otherwise ordinary. The route length appears to be exaggerated.
Start: Start as for "Vee Wee".
FA: Geoff Gledhill, Chris Baxter (alt), 1969
Used to be considered some sort of classic but it's not much fun. The exit from pitch two is not for the stout of body.
Start: Below huge line festooned with moss and rotten rock. There is a wide crack in the right wall.
FA: Kevin Sheehy, Phill Seccombe (alt)., 1966
The Magellian Heart
Should be good climbing out on the buttress rather than in the dank chimnneys. Third pitch looks outstanding. The route is now considered grade 20 but which pitches have that grade is not clear.
Start: Line up buttress just left of "Vee Wee"
FA: Keith Lockwood, Ed Neve, 1978
|29||The Stinger Direct Finish||14||22m|
Good adventure with the well protected crux right at the start. Good adventure but the first pitch crux is now very mossy. There is no way it can be climbed free at 15 in its current state [but it is easy to pull up on a good bit of gear or 2 and avoid that section] Well worth the effort. Start: The major left-facing corner about 10 metres left of 'Vee Wee'.
FA: Fred Kitchener, Peter Jackson, John Fahey. Freed: Peter Jackson, 1964
A direct finish to 'The Stinger' in a magnificent situation but with some poor rock and protection.
FA: Keith Egerton, Jim Nelson (alt) c., 1976
Fairly irrelevant. Five metres of desperate climbing on an otherwise easy, wandering, long climb.
Start: Start as for "The Stinger".
FA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson (alt), 18th Apr
Start: At weakness in wall 5 metres left of "The Stinger"
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Glenn Tempest, 1977
|34||Curtain Call Variant Start||18||22m|
The early pitches look good and are reputed to have poor protection but things deteriorate higher up. It is thought that the short bolt ladder at the top of pitch 1 has not been freed. The route is described as done free. It might be advisable to rationalise the pitches a bit. Maybe extend pitch 1 a few metres to the ledge and then run pitches 2 and 3 together.
Start: About 30 metres left of "The Stinger" at the clear initials CC
FA: Clive Parker, Chris Baxter (alt), 1968
|21 R||6, 3140m|
|36||The Last Act Direct Finish||19||25m|
|37||The Last Act Variant||19||25m|
The Last Act
Awesome line and climbing. Not many grade 22 leaders flash this so it's bumped up to 23.
Start: Start below the fantastic corner left of 'The Stinger', 6 metres left of the clear initials CC. Faint initials LA.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Ian Guild, Peter Jackson (var). Pitch 1: 2 aids, 2 and 3 all aid, pitch 4 1 aid., 1966
|22 to 23||4100m|
The Edge of Reality
This route started life as an aid route and covers some interesting territory. Unfortunately the first pitch is very dirty. It was cleaned for the free ascent but a soak at the top of the pitch means that it gets dirty very quickly. Also, the section shared with 'Dinosaur Gully' detracts somewhat. The star is for the climb in a clean state.
FA: Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood (var). Pitch 1 freed : Simon Mentz, Andrew Eastaugh 1988. Pitch 1 variant and pitch 2 freed: Roland Pauligk, Tim Beaman (alt) 24-09-1977. Pitch 4 freed: Simon Mentz, James Falla Easter 1989., 1969
Bubbles-Dinosaur Gully Direct
A good wall approach to the fantastic 'Dinosaur Gully' DF. However the start is a bit gnarly, the hanging belay is a nuisance, the flake on the second pitch seems dangerous and ... It's good but not as good as might be hoped. Also, the start is wet for a long time as it's subject to seepage from the soak at the top of pitch one of 'Edge of Reality'.
Take some big gear and lots of slings.
FA: James McIntosh, Wayne Maher, 1994
This is not as good as used to be thought but still a good, old-fashioned climb with good rock and protection. The final pitch is not very good with the direct finish being a vastly better, but harder option. Doing the first pitch of 'The Sloth' would also improve the climb at no change in grade.
Start: Chimney 15m left of 'The Last Act'. Initialled "DG".
FA: John Fahey and Peter Jackson., 7th Mar
|42||Dinosaur Gully Variant Finish||15||30m|
An alternative to the scramble off. Also referred to as 'Dinosaur Gully' 'Variant Finish'.
Start: From the eucalypt that overlooks pitch four of 'Dinosaur Gully'
FA: Steve Hains, Bruce Somerfield, 1992
The Sloth / Sloth
This fine line used to have a reputation as some sort of horror-show with poor rock and protection. This has seen the climb get little attention. Jerry Maddox enhanced the climb's poor image by adding a direct finish that was characterised by dirt and loose flakes. However recent ascents have established that the route is a ripper, especially if the maligned direct finish (as described) is used. A sustained, demanding climb that should be on everyone's Rosea tick-list.
Include some large gear and slings in the rack.
Start: The chimney 15m left of "The Last Act". Initialled "DG".
It was thought that combining the good first two pitches of 'The Sloth' with the DG DF would give a really great route. However, the linkup is contrived and difficult and it is much better to do 'Sloth' with it's own direct finish.
FA: Chris Dewhirst and Chris Baxter. Direct on Pitch 3: Jerry Maddox, Jim Nelson., 1978
|45||Sloth Direct Finish||16||28m|
The Seventh Lamb
Start: From the first belay of 'Dinosaur Gully'.
FA: James McIntosh, Alan Hope, 1993
The One Night Stand
Mostly easy climbing on good rock with two short bouldery sections on pitch two. Originally heavily aided on all pitches in wet conditions and not finished in daylight. Some parties have descended by a 50m abseil from the old bolt at the top of pitch two but this is not advisable.
Start: About 30m left of 'Dinosaur Gully' (faded initials ONS) at a weakness below an overhang.
FA: Phillip Gledhill, Geoff Gledhill. Freed : Kieran Loughran variously with Allan Hope, Ian Smith, Bill Andrews. Winter., 1984
|48||The One Night Stand Variant||18||30m|
Rise and Shine
A Beaman route with an aid point! The start is ordinary but the second pitch looks sensational.
Start: 12 metres left of "One Night Stand" at the left of two cracks just left of overhang.
FA: Tim Beaman, Sylvia Lazarnick, Tony Dignan, 1977
Start: At the large flake crack.
FA: Laurie Lovelock, Julie Tulloch, Keith Lockwood, Bill Andrews, 1972
An early climb here but not a classic. Sort of follows the same feature as 'Rameses' with variations.
Start: Start as for 'Rameses'.
FA: George Glover, Greg Lovejoy (alt), 29th Apr
|52||Crock's Crawl Variant||12||39m|
|53||Crock's Crawl Direct Start||14||28m|
A very indirect start to a major line. Originally the third pitch was considered the crux but, as with so many of these old routes, some horror-show unprotected chimney sections went totally unremarked. Perhaps modern climbers are just wimps.
Start: Start at the large flake-crack as for 'Rameses'.
FA: Geoff Shaw and Jack O'Halloran. Chrs Baxter, Clive Parker added the first pitch, 1969
This collection of variants to Crocks Crawl offers a fairly direct route up the cliff. There is some poor rock, particularly on the top pitch.
Start: Start at a crack midway between 'Rameses' and Big Chimnney.
|15 R||3, 497m|
Miracles in My Pockets
A sustained route up the wall left of "Rameses". There is some very bad rock in places.
Start: Four metres left of "Rameses". There is a cairn of rocks leaning against a tree.
|22 R||2, 185m|
The Crock Of Roland
This variant is written up separately so that people know not to go near it. A recent (2010) excursion onto it by a Rosea veteran found it pointless and dangerous, on revolting, steep, escapable rock.
Start: Start at the second belay of Crock's Crawl, below the roof.
FA: Roland Pauligk, Daryl Carr, Rob Taylor, 1966
What can you say? It's a big chimney, a major geological feature. The second pitch is truly awesome. Most modern climbers will find the crux to be the poorly protected chimney sections rather than the well-protected first pitch. This has traditionally been graded 9 but, as with many old Rosea routes, it is much harder than routes of that grade at 'Arapiles'.
Start: Find the landmark chimney, about 60 metres left of 'Dinosaur Gully', 20 metres left of 'Rameses'. There are faint initials BC on the left wall but if you need these to positively identify the climb you should go home.
FA: George Glover, Greg Lovejoy (alt). Variant finish : Greg Lovejoy, Fred Anchell, Steve Craddock., 1964
|59||Big Chimney Variant Finish||12||30m|
St Vitus Dance
Not Rosea's most attractive climb. Vegetated line 4 metres left of 'Big Chimney'.
FA: Andrew Thomson, Keith Lockwood (alt), 1972
The next two climbs start from the terrace directly above Big Chimney.
Nice wall climbing on grit like rock. This route had four un-glued u-bolts in place that were removed by hand during the onsight ascent. Very good trad is available all the way up this climb. Bring a full rack to #3 SLCD size.
Start: Starts at small orange corner with tiny roof above that sits directly below a rounded arete.
FA: Neil Monteith Mike File, 2005
Excellent thin wall climbing with unlikely natural gear. 'Small' wires are useful.
Start: Starts 2m left of 'Hypocrite' just left of the arête.
FA: Mike File Neil Monteith, 2005
The first 3 pitches are good, exposed and sustained. The fourth pitch is just a chimney and the last is a way off. The grade 17 variant finish is the best way to complete this fine climb.
Start: About 130 metres left of 'Big Chimney' at a crack leading to a roof at 10 metres. Clear initial M.
FA: Jerry Grandage, Alec Campbell, Daryl Carr (var), 1966
Matador Variant Finish
This is a fitting finish to this long overlooked climb. Start on the terrace at the top of pitch four. Move 2-3 metres left to undercut crack at lefthand edge of ledge. Up the crack, following it rightwards on the steep headwall. To get off, scramble back then up and right to reach the walking track.
FA: Phillip Armstrong, Matthew Pearce, Peter Cody, 2010
Several sections of good, sustained climbing. Some rounded sandy rock detracts from the overall quality. Start: 45 metres left of Matador where a crack splits a narrow buttress. The climb starts to the L of the buttress where a short section of bushes has to be negotiated to reach the crack [originally graded 13].
FA: Keith Lockwood, Tony Amiconi, Julie Tulloch (var), 1972
Unusual mix of caving and climbing and finishing on a pinnacle to boot!
Start: About 45 metres left of 'Toreador' at a chimney/groove. Faint initials SP on left side of crack. There is a nice looking thin seam taking the front of the narrow buttress 2 metres to the right which should help to locate this climb.
FA: Geoff Gledhill, Alan Gledhill (alt), 1968
Tackles some dramatic territory. Some parties have had trouble following the description but the route has recently been repeated and a logical, attractive first pitch description provided.
The topo has been updated to reflect this.
Start: About 60 metres left of 'Spelio Pinnacle' and about 10 metres right of a major roof-capped corner (Burning Daylight). Start from blackened white gum tree."I can't imagine any sensible modern climber wanting to scramble unroped up the steep dirty wall below the white gum tree [now stunted and blackened by the fires but still alive]" (Phillip Armstrong).
FA: Michael Stone, Chris Baxter, Geoff Gledhill (var) and Julie Tulloch, 1973
The great roof-capped corner down the left end of the cliff is a mixed bag. The main corner on the second pitch is great but the rest of the climb is not in the same class.
Start: Scramble up to below a small corner below and just right of the main corner.
FA: Roland Pauligk, Tim Beaman (alt)., 1977
One of the few worthwhile aid routes in the Grampians, with a huge roof at the very top of the cliff. It is written up with the direct start, which is the best way to do the climb.
The original start (two pitches) came in to the base of pitch four from 45 metres up the gully to the right via mostly easy climbing and a few aid bolts.
It is likely that significant sections of the lower pitches could be freed relatively easily. Using 60 metre ropes could help to run the lower four pitches into two giving a significant time saving on the approach to the roof. Head torches have been found useful in the past. Take 2 bat-hooks and 11 hangers.
The climb is about 750 metres from where the main walking track is left, with the final 400 metres being relatively slow. Expect to take between 45 minutes to an hour-and-a-half from the car with packs.
Start: Below the obvious line leading to the huge roof at the top of the cliff about 150 metres left of 'Burning Daylight' (400 metres left of Big Chimney). Scramble about 10m up onto a block.
FA: Chris Baxter, Clive Parker (var), 1970
FA: Peter McKeand, Michael Stone (alt)., 1971
|9 to 12 M4||5110m|
Long/Lat: 142.692333, 37.106000
The area left of Tourist Buttress and up the Giant's Staircase along the old walking track has some of the earliest climbs done at Rosea. This does not mean that it is studded with classics, far from it. While the small area around Martin Eden offers a handful of brilliant climbs much of the rest around here is mediocre.
Where the walking track hits the cliff it does a final hairpin turn and then climbs left up the Giant's Staircase. A pad moves off right at this point along the cliffline towards the major landmark that is Tourist Buttress, about thirty metres right of where the track meets the cliffs. The climbs in the Giant's Staircase area are described starting on the left side of Tourist Buttress and moving left.
- Descent Notes:
Follow a rough track south-east along the top until the walking track is reached. Follow the track to the top of the Giants Staircase. The top of this is often marked with tapes or cairns and is at 37.190150 S, 142.502186 E
Generally disparaged in previous guides but takes some interesting territory. Originally started as for 'Tourist Direct' but described here with a direct start.
FA: Paul Gillis, Bob Kenyon (alt), 1969
Another great route from Tim Beaman. It is unlikely that anyone has repeated the route exactly as climbed, with the original third pitch culminating in a lunge for a hold while a good 6 metres above the last gear! Mercifully there is an alternative!
Start: Start left of 'Nyingtong' at short wall below buttress split by crack, 10 metres right of where the walking track meets the cliff.
FA: Tim Beaman, Bryan Kennedy (alt) Gary Wills, Dick Evans did the variant on the third pitch., 1977
A Bottle of Brut
A companion to 'Abysmal Brute' which you'll need to locate first.
Start: Start at big line immediately left of 'Abysmal Brute'.
FA: David Gairns, Chris Baxter, 1997
An old wandering route that used to be considered something of a minor classic but has fallen into disuse. It was originally done in eight pitches but several of these can be combined and there are a couple of belay points that are probably best bypassed.
There is a lot of good climbing but the poorly protected section across the slabs at about 40 metres is a serious lead despite being quite easy.
Pinpointing the start is a bit difficult as existing descriptions rely on initials which are no longer evident.
Start: Start just right of where the track reaches the cliff at wide line just right of 'Flypaper Wall'.
FA: Geoff Shaw, Robin Dunse (alt), 1961
|5||Tourist Direct Variant Finish||12||36m|
|6||Tourist Direct Variant||8||63m|
Major line. The mossy poorly protected face at about 40 metres detracts from things.
Start: Start as for 'Tourist Direct'
FA: Chris Davis, Ian Guild.., 1963
Another old route that takes some hostile territory but doesn't get done often these days. Some of the pitches could well be combined.
Start: Below twin cracks on a ledge a few metres above the hairpin bend where the track meets the cliff.
FA: George Glover, Greg Lovejoy, 2nd Apr
|9||Flypaper Wall Variant Finish||15||33m|
|10||Flypaper Wall Showpiece Crack Variant||12||33m|
|11||Flypaper Wall Variant||14||20m|
St Valentine's Day Massacre
Lovely little pitch for the end of the day. A bit of dirt at the very start and end will clean up quickly.
Start: Start at the same point as 'Flypaper Wall'.
FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, 1998
Better than the name suggests. The first pitch can be done in its own right and would clean up well. This route incorporates the 'Showpiece' Crack, an obvious feature high on the cliff which looks brilliant from high on the Giant's Staircase and is still good close up.
Start: Below a mossy looking gully/groove just up left from the hairpin bend where the track meets the cliff.
FA: Peter Canning, Tim Beaman (alt). The Showpiece Crack was first climbed by John Fahey, Peter Jackson, Ed Potworoski as a variant to Tourist Direct., 31st Jan
Great climbing up the right-hand seam on the grey wall. Take many wires down to #0 RP. Scramble off right to tree.
FA: Ed Neve, Hugh Foxcroft, Gary Wills. Early 1980s, 2000
More good climbing up the left-hand seam on the grey wall. Scramble off right to tree.
FA: Ed Neve, Hugh Foxcroft, Gary Wills. Early 1980s., 2000
Pleasant climbing up the left arete of the grey wall after a harder start.
Start: Short crack below the corner marking the left side of the grey wall.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Brendan O'Leary, Jane Wilkinson., 1984
Devious route with the standard dropping dramatically after the first few metres.
Start: As for 'Mr Pye'.
FA: Geoff Gledhill, Chris Baxter and Julie Tulloch. Aids in the first few metres reputedly freed by Peter Traby., 1973
Ralph the Snail Strikes Back
Great climbing but the crux groove leading to the overhangs has loose blocks and poor protection.
FA: R Curtis, P Armstrong. varied leads
Fantastic climbing through large overhangs. Although the first pitch doesn't offer good climbing and is quite nasty the overall quality of the climb rises above this. Not all parties agree with this.
Start: Just right of a large tree about 40 metres left of where the walking track meets the cliff.
FA: Tim Beaman, Peter Canning, 1976
|20||Martin Eden Variant||17||20m|
Significant as the first climb to tackle the overhangs on this wall but a bizarre approach from high in a tree and a wandering finish mean that it doesn't warrant repeating. The best part of the climb is now done as the second pitch of 'john Barleycorn'.
Start: Start at the tree by 'Martin Eden'.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Michael Stone, 1973
|22||Shady Aid Direct Start||16||40m|
Good direct climb with lots of good climbing.
Start: By the large tree at the start of 'Martin Eden'.
FA: Tim Beaman, Roland Pauligk. Independent start : Kieran Loughran, Gary Wills, 1982
Call of the Wild
Fine, sustained climbing with an unlikely crux that's a few grades harder than the rest of the climb and a fantastically exposed hand traverse high on the cliff.
Start: Start about 50 metres left of where the track meets the cliff just left of the big tree.
|25||Call of the Wild Variant||21||23m|
Can safely be forgotten. Used to share Bus Stop's worthless start before traversing to the third pitch of 'John Barleycorn'. Lots of aid originally used on pitches 3 and 4.
Start: Start as for 'Bus Stop'.
FA: Geoff Gledhill, Chris Baxter. Michael Stone and Geoff Gledhill cut it to three ais in. Freed by Tim Beaman Oct 1976., 1971
|27||Pall Bearer Direct Finish||16||25m|
Starting up the first two pitches of 'Call of the Wild' and finishing up a prominent corner gives quite a good route. The original start is described here but is best forgotten.
Start: Start about 10 metres left of 'Martin Eden'. Faded initals BS.
FA: Roger Caffin, Bruno Zeller (alt), 1968
Major choss starting up 'Bus Stop' and finishing up the prominent corner to the left.
Start: Start as for 'Bus Stop'.
FA: Andrew Bowman, Chris Baxter (var), 1973
The White Cockade
OK first pitch but the top is not much fun. Both pitches have some loose or hollow blocks and protection is poor at a couple of crucial points.
Note that the variant start which is now graded 17 was put up by the same team on the following day and graded 15 so this route could be undergraded.
Start: Start 2 metres right of Commando Climb.
FA: Peter Cunningham, Neil Barr, Peter Watling, 1981
The White Cockade Variant Start
A good pitch but poor protection for the crux section at about 12 metres. Originally graded 15.
Start: Start as for Commando Climb.
FA: Neil Barr, Peter Cunningham, Peter Watling., 1981
Takes some very unlikely territory for the grade. Also, the third pitch got left out of the 1977 Baxter Guide so heavens know what people made of it. It appears that the climb gains the major horizontal break about 25 metres below the top of the cliff on the third pitch and then traverses off left. Some quite experienced parties have had trouble following the route so it's been given a serious flag for now until it is further checked out.
Start: Up the giant staircase, about 37 metres left of 'Martin Eden'. Clear initials CC.
FA: Party Unknown. Easter., 1960
Blood On The Rocks
Finishes up a sustained groove in the head wall. Some dirt and loose blocks detract from the climb overall, but it could clean up quite well. Originally graded 14. Start: as for Commando Climb.
FA: Scott Johnson, Toni Taggert, 1994
|34||Commando Climb Variant Finish||9||33m|
Missing In Action
Constantly engaging climbing.
Start: Start as for Commando Climb.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth (alt) and Tim Lockwood., 2001
Clutching at Straws
Start: Start a few metres left of Commando Climb at a break in the overhang. There used to be some railings here but they have mercifully been removed.
FA: Peter Cunningham, Keith Lockwood, Peter Watling, 1981
Start: Supposed to start at initials 100 metres up the Giants Staircase. Not located yet.
FA: Geoff Shaw, Jack O'Halloran, 2nd Apr
Pull up and climb the face to a ledge. Step left and pull up on a small nose. Traverse up left into a chimney which goes to the top.
Start: Start 5 metres left of 'Easter Wall'. (? initialled)
FA: George Glover, Greg Lovejoy, 2nd Apr
Bernie's Open Book
Good jamming and bridging exercise but hard to locate, probably because of inaccurate access descriptions in all the existing guides.
Start: Despite many guidebooks saying so this route is NOT accessed from the Giant's Staircase. When heading along the track towards the Staircase from the Northern/Rhand end of the cliff there is a little dip about 160m before the top of the Staircase where the track nears the cliff. Walk to the cliff edge and there is a short steep slightly vegetated gully leading to a ledge about 10m below. Head down to ledge turn R [facing cliff] and go about 5m to get up onto some blocks around the arête. A clean open book corner is directly above. BD 4 useful.
FA: Bernie Lyons. c., 1963
Not one of Rosea's more inspiring locations.
Up the Giant's Staircase for about 150 metres past 'Easter Hangover' until just before the top of the Giant's Staircase. The cliff has broken down considerably here. To find the climbs, first locate 'End Of The Line' and work from that.
Long/Lat: 142.501925, -37.189975
Where the walking track meets the cliff a pad goes off to the right and the base of 'Tourist Buttress' is 30 metres along this pad.
- Descent Notes:
Most routes go to the top of the cliff and descent is by following a rough track south-east along the top until the walking track is reached. This track is then followed to the top of the Giants Staircase. The top of this is often marked with tapes or cairns and is at 37.190150 S, 142.502186 E Apart from an unsightly chain anchor on the first belay of 'Debutante', existing abseil descents have relied on trees. Many of these were severely damaged or died in the fires in 2006 and should be regarded with suspicion.
The chimney on the left side of 'Tourist Buttress' ends up in the third pitch of 'Tourist Buttress'. Rarely done. Usually only the first 25 metres is climbed as the 'Tourist Buttress' 'Brainchild' start.
Start: The chimney on the left side of 'Tourist Buttress'.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Andrew Thomson, 1973
|2||Crank Hard, Crank Fast||22||25m|
Crank Hard, Crank Fast-Cruising
Good arete on the first pitch leads to a link-up of a lot of good climbing both existing and new.
The third pitch goes up to and through the recent rockfall area and extreme caution should be exercised.
Start: Start as for 'Tourist Buttress'.
FA: Glenn Tempest, Craig Nottle Pitch 1 22-05-1983. Cruising : Simon Mentz, Cameron Brooks., 2000
An historic route that offers great climbing. It's unfortunate that the first pitch is much harder than the rest of the climb.
Many pitons from the first ascent are still in place but should not be relied on. Pullling on a few pegs on the first pitch can drop the grade to 19, M1
Start: The crack on the front of the buttress. Faint initials TB.
FA: Herbert Schlipper, Greg Lovejoy (alt) Easter, 1963
|6||Tourist Buttress Variant Start||16||51m|
|7||Tourist Buttress Variant 1||15||21m|
|8||Tourist Buttress Variant 2||14||25m|
|9||Tourist Buttress Arete Finish||9||40m|
A good, exposed finishing pitch for 'Tourist Buttress' or Ascension, particularly now that the abseil tree is unsafe. Would be even better if the good climbing wasn't so brief.
Start: At DBB next to large tree at foot of final pitch of 'Tourist Buttress'.
FA: Stephen Hamilton, Peter Woolford., 1991
Absolutely fantastic. The hard first pitch corner can be a show-stopper and the third pitch arete is awesomely exposed and not brilliantly protected.
FA: Bruno Zielke, Chris Dewhirst (var), 1969
An intricate line, very bold and well-conceived. While the upper pitches have been incorporated into a hybrid with Fringe Dweller, the first and second pitches are rarely done. Perhaps they are still ahead of their time.
Start: As for 'The Ascension'.
FA: Chris Shepherd, Glenn Tempest.., 1981
A good route with some spectacular climbing and not always the best rock and protection.
FA: Chris Peisker, Tim Beaman., 1976
Fringe-dweller – Skywalker Finish
The first two pitches of Fringe Dweller and the finish of 'Skywalker'. The grade drops to 22 if the third pitch of Fringe Dweller is used.
Originally a long, somewhat contrived aid route. Most of it is now incorporated in 'Skywalker' or Fringe Dweller except for this very nice first pitch. Kevin and Peter Lindorff freed large sections of the first three pitches in February 1975. Higher sections were freed during the first ascent of 'Skywalker'.
Start: Corner right of Ascension. Faded initial P (looks a bit like D though).
FA: Norm Booth, Keith Lockwood, 1970
|21||The Presciption Variant 1||16 M2||2110m|
|22||The Presciption Variant 2||22||50m|
A hard elegant flake crack leads to solid climbing at about grade 16. The first pitch is often done in its own right but the whole climb is worth doing. The abseil tree appears to be well after the fire but it would be better if a lower-off was installed to reduce the traffic around the tree.
Start: 'Flake' crack 3 metres right of 'The Prescription'
FA: Ian Guild, Michael Stone (alt), 1966
|16 to 20||4120m|
High on Rosea no-one can hear your second scream. A traverse of the less-amusing variety.
Start: At the second belay of 'The Last Rites'.
FA: Glenn Tempest, Philip Armstrong Late 1970s, 2000
A very bold first pitch with some quite hard moves.
Usually done as a toprope problem after doing the first pitch of RIP Corner.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Peter Lindorff, Mathew Taylor, 1976
Unfortunately this historic climb is largely superseded by 'The Last Rites'. However it is a bit easier than that route and 'The Toff' so it is a good option for people who might not want to tackle a 19. The climb originally finished up 'Debutante' but is written up here with the direct finish.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter. Direct Finish (pitches 4,5) Mike Law, Chris Baxter 04-03-1978, 1968
|27||Requiem Direct Finish||17||55m|
|28||Requiem-The Last Rites||19||130m|
The Last Rites
Fantastic climbing from start to finish. Double ropes really help, especially if you want to run some pitches together.
Start: Left facing flake-crack 10 metres right of RIP Corner.
33m (18) Up flake to sloping ledge at 12 metres (manky old PR). There are two ways to go here. The obvious way is to climb directly to the overhang and then step right past it. Good climbing but there is no gear above the sloping ledge until the roof is reached and it may make this pitch 19. The original way is to step right around the arete from the foot of or just below the sloping ledge then up the wall to the lip of the overhang (there used to a peg somewhere about here). Now that the two ways have joined, pull over the bulge (be careful with the flake) onto the wall above the overhang. Either belay on a small stance on the left just above the overhang or continue up several metres to a slightly larger stance on the right (a large wire flicked up into the corner of the next pitch helps with the belay here).
24m (18) Beautiful thin corner to small ledge on right. (Pitches 2 and 3 are often combined.)
26m (19) Step down and follow obvious hand-traverse line out left for 4 or 5 metres to daunting corner (there are actually 3 corners above the traverse - this is the middle one). Up corner and past a peg runner. Exit left above overlap and up juggy wall to long ledge below overhang.
41m (17) Take the steep left-facing corner left of the overhang until it eases and up crack to top.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Bruno Zielke (1 aid on pitch 3), 1969
FFA: Kevin Lindorff, 1976
The Loved One
Start: As for 'The Last Rites'
FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, 1986
It's a bit hard to justify calling this early exploration a climb even though it has a quite hard section.
Start: As for 'Debutante'.
FA: Greg Lovejoy, Bern Lyons, 1963
There's lots of good climbing here from the ground all the way to the top. The original route included substantial bits of 'Debutante' and some of 'Requiem'. For a comprehensible route which people might actually climb bits of Toff Direct and 'Requiem' 'Direct Finish' have been grafted on.
Start: Below 'Debutante Direct Start'.
FA: Chris Baxter, Michael Stone, Rick White. Requiem Direct Finish (pitches 4,5) Mike Law, Chris Baxter 4-03-1978 Toff Direct (pitches 1,3) Law, Baxter 22-03-1980., 1978
Brilliant climb taking the corner systems marking the right side of the great wall right of 'Tourist Buttress'.
Genrally well protected but there are some large apparently loose or detached blocks at crucial points.
Start: Start up a ripply wall 3 metres right of Last Rites.
FA: Mike Stone, Ian Guild., 1966
The front of the buttress that forms Debutante's big corner. Appears runout above the overhang.
Start: At the pinnacle at second belay of 'Debutante'.
FA: Peter Martin, Jenny Plant, 1994
|35||Debutante Direct Finish||16||36m|
|36||It'll End in Tears||24||80m|
|37||The Toff Direct||22||120m|
It'll End in Tears-The Toff Direct
Excellent, sustained climbing though a bit scary in places. Also the fixed gear on pitch 2 needs replacing. A direct link between pitches 3 and 4 has been attempted and should go within the grade. That would improve the route further.
Start: Start at ripply wall 3 metres right of the Last Rites (as for Debutante)
FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran. The final pitch is from Toff Direct MIke Law, Chris Baxter March 1980., 1986
Debutante Direct Start
The superb crack leading to the first belay of 'Debutante' is intimidating but has excellent holds and gear.
Start: Below the overhang about 5 metres right of 'Debutante'.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Bruno Zielke (two aid points), 1970
Angry Young Men
This great arete has probably never had a complete ascent and the first pitch may not have been lead-climbed. The bolting on the first pitch really needs to be fixed up.
Start: Start just right of 'Debutante Direct Start'.
FA: Gleen Tempest climbed top two pitches in. Scott Camps later bolted the first pitch which has susequently been toproped., 2000
The Jesus Factor
Brilliant climb. The first ascent, done without bolts, saw Marty Beare braced anchorless on the first belay holding Tempest falling onto poor runners on the crux.
Descent used to be by abseil from the tree atop the second pitch but it is not known if that is still safe since the fires. Slings are needed for the abseil if the tree is safe. Probably the best alternative way off is to climb up to the base of Debutante's fourth pitch and finish up 'The Toff' Direct (22). The belay and protection bolts need updating.
FA: Glenn Tempest, Marty Beare, 1983
Dust to Dust
FA: Peter Martin, Phil Robertson., 1991
Speculation Direct Start
A good varied pitch. With this start and the variant finish Speculation can be climbed as a completely separate line from Heretic. Start: 2m L of Heretic [which is marked with an S] Up cracks and face above.
Great sustained second pitch but it eases off dramatically after that. A better and completely independent climb can be had with the variant start and finish.
The original top pitches are not very enjoyable and pass through complex territory with many options leading into loose and poorly protected country. There are no safe abseil trees at this level.
Start: Start at line leading into substantial left-facing corner about 25 metres right of 'Debutante', 4 metres left of a large tree which has recently fallen over, 8 metres left of the clear initial D marking the start of 'Diane'. Used to have a faint inital S but couldn't locate this recently (2013).
FA: Chris Davis, Ian Guild, 1966
Speculation Variant Finish
This finish is better than the original and makes the climb much more sustained. It should be possible to climb more directly into this finish from the second belay and avoid the section shared with pitch 3 of 'Speculation'.
Start: Start at the second belay of 'Speculation'.
FA: Chris Baxter, Peter McKeand, 1978
Climbs don't come any better than this. Sustained quality climbing all the way but be warned that it also has its share of loose blocks, poor rock and spaced protection.
Start: Start as for 'Speculation', at line leading into substantial left-facing corner about 25 metres right of 'Debutante', 4 metres left of a large tree which has recently fallen over, 8 metres left of the clear initial D marking the start of 'Diane'. Used to be marked with a faint initial S but this could not be seen recently (2013).
FA: Peter McKeand, Gordon Talbett, 1969
Ashes to Ashes
A bit contrived at the start but still a good route.
'Diane' Super Direct (19) by Paul Badenoch appears to be largely a repeat of pitch 3 of this climb but starting a bit more to the left. Description is reproduced in pitch 3. Repeat ascents may clear up whether there are 1 or 2 lines here.
Start: Start 1.5 metres right of 'Heretic'.
FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran (var).., 1984
Another brilliant climb with a desperate crux on the frist pitch followed by an absolutely sublime second pitch. Sharing the top pitch and a half with 'Heretic' doesn't detract from it.
FA: Phillip Stranger, Phillip Gledhill. They wandered way off to the left from halfway up pitch 2 and the route as described was done by Bruno Zielke, Gordon Talbett January 1970., 1968
|51||Diane Direct Start||18||33m|
|52||Diane Direct Finish||17||23m|
|54||Diane Super Direct||19||35m|
An intricate route up the rock right of 'Diane'. The direct variants possibly improve the climb - it depends on your point of view. Protection on the final pitches is sparse.
Start: Start at the V-groove just right of 'Diane'.
FA: Chris Baxter, Mathew Taylor (var), 1975
|56||Hard Times Variant 1||20||50m|
|57||Hard Times Variant 2||19||22m|
Hard Times Direct
A couple of direct variants offer possibly better climbing than the original 'Hard Times'.
Start: Start as for 'Hard Times'
FA: Pitch 1 : Joe Lynch, Jim Truscott 12-1985. Pitch 3 : Roland Pauligk, Tim Beaman, 1977
This is the climb that puts the "F" back into grade 12. 'Steep' and sustained and requiring route-finding ability. Pay close attention to the description especially on the third and fourth pitches.
FA: George Glover, Greg Lovejoy (alt), 1961
|60||Mixed Climb Variant||14||30m|
The Seventh Seal
Multi-pitch girdle traverses are a weird concept but this long journey at the 20-25 metres mark between 'Mixed Climb' and Tourist is good value. There's a lot of well-protected climbing at about grade 11 or 12. Unfortunately there's one move that's a good deal harder and not well protected which knocks a star off and gets the serious rating.
Start: as for 'Mixed Climb'.
FA: Bob Connell, Rein Kamar, Keith Wadsworth (var), 1973
FA: Craig Nottle, Doug Fife., 1983
Good exposed crack finish. Abseil descent as for 'Knick Knack'.
FA: Doug Fife, Craig Nottle., 1983
The intimidating wide crack on right wall of 'Mixed Climb', initialled KK. Originally done with a cramped belay at the alcove at 12m.
Descent from large slings next to dead tree on 'Mixed Climb'.
Start: Crack 6 metres right of 'Mixed Climb'. Clear initials KK
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Bruno Zielke.., 1970
Some great climbing, particularly on the first pitch.
Start: Right of the overhangs right of 'Knick Knack'.
FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Ed Neve (var), 1982
It is hard to believe that this was once a relatively popular climb. The first pitch is more like a garden fernery than a climb.
FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone (one aid), 1973
A hard first pitch and then the standard drops dramatically and the climb wanders its way to the top. It is not clear that anyone has climbed the first pitch free in one push. The first ascent of 'Desperado' freed the climb from about the 16 metre mark. Then aid on the first 14 metres was eliminated during the ascent of 'Fear and Loathing'.
Start: Orange, overhanging corner about 10 metres right of 'Holocaust'. Clear initial S.
FA: Peter McKeand, Gordon Talbett (var)., 1969
Fear and Loathing
Start: Start as for 'Solitude'.
FA: Andrew Thomson, Nic Taylor (alt), 1977
Start: Start below the right arete of the 'Solitude' corner.
FA: Greg Child, Chris Baxter (alt)., 1976
Sustained and interesting climbing. If you have done Mixed Climb and are looking for something a bit harder to do on Rosea this well protected outing is recommended. The original top pitch is dirty and unpleasant, the finish as described is far better. Start about 13 metres right of Solitude. Initialled MA.
FA: Chris Davis, Ian Guild (var), 1966
The Never-ending Story
Start: Start 3 metres right of Mug\'s Alley.
FA: Chris Baxter, Stpehen Hamilton (alt)., 2008
Start: Start about 10 metres right of Mug's Alley below a grey flake. First 2 pitches are quite good, 4th looks rounded and poorly protected. Best to finish as for Mugs Alley [walking L] or top 2 pitches of Goon Show [walking R].
FA: Chris Baxter, Chris Dewhirst (var), 1976
The Goon Show
The major corner line which looks pretty vegetated and awful. The upper pitches out R after the big ledge make an interesting alternate finish to other routes in the area. The original crux on P 3 is probably harder than the 11 it was originally graded. Start: Start 18 metres right of Mug's Alley below the major corner line.
FA: Mike Stone, Peter Jackson (alt), 23rd Oct
Heaven and Hell
Good first pitch but the next four pitches are atrocious! The first ascent party suggests that an abseil anchor is neeeded at the top of the first pitch; the rest of us will wait for them to provide one.
FA: Bob Bull, Chris Baxter (alt), 2008
The Road to Damascus
Climbs the most significant buttress at the far right end of the cliff.
Start: Start 40 metres right of 'Heaven and Hell'.
FA: Wayne Maher, Chris Baxter (alt)., 2008
This covers the cliffs encountered on the walking track after reaching the top of the Giant's Staircase. At this stage this includes the area known as Gate of The East Wind as well as the very summit. None of this has been checked as yet but, despite the great situation the climbing doesn't sound good. Location:
These climbs can be approached by following the standard tourist track but it is assumed that the usual approach will be up the Giant's Staircase. Gate Of The East Wind is located 300-400m past the top of the Giant Stairway on the walking track. It is a deep, cool cleft. The track crosses the cleft over huge boulders with a metal hand rail. Access the cliff by walking right after the hand rail (away from the cliff) and into the gully. Summit Cliff : About 50 metres right (facing out) from the summit lookout is a southeast-facing grey wall about 30 metres high, distinguished by a couple of horizontal roof lines reminiscent of Bundaleer. Reach this by walking about 100 metres right (looking out) along the cliff top to a broad gully and abseil tree (?) from where a 25 metre abseil gains a broad vegetated terrace. Walk back left to the base of the wall.
"About attractive as...." First corner on the left (facing out as you walk down the gully), directly under the hand rail. Up the corner and through the hole. (Yes, that's right - through the hotel!) Glen Donohue, Nick Ping, James McIntosh, An¬drew Webb. 8.3.98
Prince of Darkness
Start in the middle of the south face of the gully, opposite a small alcove formed by left and right facing corners. James McIntosh, Glen Donohue, Nick Ping, Andrew Webb. 8.3.98
Corner on the cliff out in the sunshine 5m left (facing the cliff) of chasm. Nick Ping, Glen Donohue, Andrew Webb, James McIntosh. 8.3.98
Vote Of No Confidence
Climbs over loads of dangerous loose blocks in an attractive.
Start: At the line behind the big, detached block.
FA: John Stone, Eddy Rawlins, 1999
Vote Of Over Confidence
Start: As for Vote of No Confidence
FA: TR Richard Evans, 1999
- Access Issues:
All public access to this area is prohibited due to the rock-wallaby rehabilitation project
|1||From a Ferret to a Fox||20||22m|
|14||A Gathering of Dinosaurs||17||22m|
|15||Chase the Dragon||20||18m|
|16||The Flying Game||20||15m|
|18||Waiting for Mars||21||20m|
|23||Sackcloth and Ashes||17||15m|
|3||Return to Waterholes Road||18||25m|
|2||Dews and Dentils||16||20m|
|3||Ortis the Tortois||16||12m|
|2||Young Ones Reign||14||20m|
|3||Stopping All Stations||18||20m|
|4||You Can't Always Get What You Want||19||14m|
|6||The Land of Nod||17||14m|
|7||A Nod's as Good as a Wink||18||14m|
|1||It Started With a Kiss||18||16m|
|2||Humping in Cornwall||18||25m|
|3||It Ended With a Bang||19||15m|
|1||Dancing at Lughnasa||13||20m|
|2||The Hot Sun||23||30m|
|4||Signs and Wonders||19||13m|
|5||Shaken, Not Stirred||18||13m|
|6||Smoke and Mirrors||15||30m|
|7||A Whole Generation Lost in Space||20||22m|
|8||A Crash Course for the Ravers||20||22m|
|10||Leave Me Alone||17||13m|
Long/Lat: 142.469057, -37.215630
- Access Issues:
All public access to this area is prohibited due to the rock-wallaby rehabilitation project.
|5||Lin Shao Chi||5||33m|
Long/Lat: 142.469454, -37.215256
- Description:© (jgoding)
A classic cliff containing a good spread of quality routes in to the low 20's. More 'old fashioned' than many, expect a little loose rock and bring your hexes!
- Approach:© (jgoding)
NOTE: this area is currently closed
There are two ways to access Peking face. For dedicated car bashers: Drive to 'Bundaleer' via the stony creek track. Keep going for another 4.4km or so until 200m past the Moora track junction where a campsite appears on the left.
For non-car bashers: From Boreong Campsite, head south along the Homestead road for 2km to the junction with the Rosea track. Follow the Rosea track for 5.5km to a nice secluded creekside campsite on the right. If you reach the Moora track junction you've gone a couple of hundred meters too far. This route still a bit rough and low slung cars may have issues on the creek crossings.
Locate the track on the west bank of the creek and up to the cliff to a point a few meters right of 'Ancient Warriors'.
|4||The Kurdish Peasant Girl||17||15m|
|6||Kowloon Crack Variant Finish||20||15m|
|7||The Red Guard||12||45m|
The Killing Fields
fun face climbing - a bit contrived. Well protected with small wires.
Start: begin around 7m right of left arete of main face (before it disintegrates and becomes the left descent gully).
FA: Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter, Tim Burke, 1990
|14||Ho Chi Minh||13||45m|
|15||Chou En Lai||12||48m|
great face climbing with adequate protection. May be worth 2 stars.
Start: 12m right of KF.
FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter (alt), Kelvin Longhurst, Ian Ravenscroft, 1989
a fun face climb in a similar vein to 'Broken China' - good protection. Double ropes handy.
Start: wall just left of arete of 'Broken China' Buttress.
FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter (alt), Ian Ravenscroft, 1989
|18||The Last Emperor||18||25m|
|19||Mao Tse Tung||22 M1||250m|
|20||Chiang Kai Shek||14||50m|
|22||Honourable Exit Direct||18||45m|
|23||Hu Flung Dung||7||45m|
|30||Lam Jack Chu||12||47m|
|32||Fu Man Chu||13||44m|
one of the earlier routes at Peking face, with a goey crux moving out of the top of the corner.
FA: Jerry Grandage, Greg Lovejoy, 1968
|40||Chop Chop Cheem Nee||4||44m|
|41||The Second Puff||14||45m|
A steep, varied and interesting climb. Good protection. Easily climbed in a single pitch.
Start: Slightly left of where the track reaches the cliff is a slightly overhung v crack.
FA: Gary Wills, Dick Evans, 1984
|50||Ancient Warriors Direct||19||48m|
|52||Cho Cheem Nee||4||45m|
The Adolf Hitler Memorial Buttress
a steep, exciting first pitch
Start: across the gully from 'Ancient Warriors' is a steep imposing buttress.
FA: Greg Child, Coral Bowman, Chris Peisker, 1978
|2||The Inscrutable Smile||16||50m|
|5||Chow Chin Chow||8||51m|
|8||Racial Prejudice||9 M5||248m|
|9||The Cultural Revolution||20||45m|
|10||The Cultural Revolution Variant Finish||20||36m|
|11||Frozen on the Edge of Time||20||54m|
|13||The White Australia Policy||11||39m|
|1||Little Red Riding Hood||14||22m|
|6||Hammer and Tong||19||45m|
|7||The Rising Sun||13||42m|
|16||Bali Variant Finish||15||23m|
|19||Junk Variant Finish||16||30m|
|20||The Food of the Gods||21||35m|
|23||The People's Choice||12||38m|
|25||Sweet and Sour Delicacy||17||40m|
|26||Sweet and Sour Delicacy Variant Start||18||16m|
|30||The Khyber Pass||11||36m|
|36||The Ivory Coast||19||17m|
|2||Where the Boys Are||16||20m|
|5||Measure for Measure||18||20m|
|6||Slings and Arrows||16||20m|
|8||The Road Less Travelled||17||20m|
|9||The Shining Path||15||20m|
|10||Road to Nowhere||15||18m|
- Access Issues:
All public access to this area is prohibited due to the rock-wallaby rehabilitation project
|4||The Last Straw||12||70m|
|8||Days of Old||17||40m|