A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

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Table of contents

1. Central Grampians 639 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.444747, -37.197472

1.1. Epacris Cliffs 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

1.1.1. Victory Wall 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jihad 18 Trad 50m
2 Crying Eyes 20 Trad 27m

1.1.2. Koori Country 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Career Jeopardy 17 Trad 30m

1.1.3. Livingstone 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Stanley 15 Trad 35m
2 Outreach 20 Trad 35m
3 ** Cargo Cult 18 Trad 34m
4 I Presume 17 Trad 40m
5 Mrs Bender 17 Trad 35m
6 Ghost Who Walks 13 Trad 35m
7 Fossil Fuel 17 Trad 38m

1.1.4. Cliff Richard 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 True Confessions 14 Trad 25m
2 Africa Rick 13 Trad 28m
3 ** Grey Power 17 Trad 30m
4 Now You See Me, Now You Don't 15 Trad 25m

1.1.5. The Prow 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pillow Biter 15 Trad 25m
2 Family Business 17 Trad 30m
3 End of the Decade 16 Trad 30m

1.2. Boreang Campsite Area 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.396028, -37.177977

1.2.1. Paddys Castle 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: 142.396152, -37.177855

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 To be Slim, To be Slim

Burrow through the thin hole just L of The Last Rites.

FA: Richard Eustace and friends, 2003

10 Trad 12m
2 The Last Rights of Rory O'Meally 18 Trad 10m
3 Irish Weetbix 16 Trad 18m
4 Irish Weetbix Variant Start 16 Trad 18m
5 Doing a Line

As for ABoC for 5m, then a thin move up L, and up the surprisingly sustained wall between IWVS and ABoC. Direct through centre of top bulge using small roof flake. Looks lichenous but all holds were cleaned during/after FA.

FA: Will Monks, Heather Murray, Ben Wright, 2003

18 Trad 14m
6 A Bit of Craic

The crack just L of D, gained by way of tricky orange cracks L of corner. 12 if orange cracks are avoided by climbing D for 6m.

FA: Ben Wright, Jack, Richard Eustace, Will Monks, 2003

14 Trad 14m
7 Dungeon 8 Trad 15m
8 Blarney Stone 7 Trad 15m
9 Uidhir 13 Trad 15m
10 Storm Trooper 19 Trad 14m
11 * Clever Heather

A bit of everything on nice rock, but struggles for the star. Textbook handcrack 3m L of F, through L end of roof, thuggish short thin crack, then thin slab L of black streak to roof. Hand traverse R to airy mantle. Short corner crack to top.

FA: Will Monks, Ben Wright, 2003

21 Trad 15m
12 Fredarnehaun 14 Trad 14m
13 Wee Bit of Blarney 16 Trad 14m
14 IRA 10 Trad 14m

1.3. Bundaleer Area 205 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.474872, -37.198559

1.3.1. Bundaleer 139 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.476186, -37.189902

Description:© (jgoding)

Fantastic climbing from grade 12 to 28. Superb rock and home to the mega classics Scarab (12*), 'The Minch' (12), Basilisk (16), Odysseus (17*), "Blimp" (20), "Pathos" (21*), 'Flying Circus' (21*), Dragon's Temple (22), Stone Ocean (22), Genisis Direct (24), 'Manic Depressive' (25), Ostler (25*), 'Angular Perspective' (28), The Ogive (28), 'Touchstone Pictures' (28**). Check out Chris Baxter's "South Eastern Grampians" guide (1991) for a full listing until this guide supersedes it. Glenn Tempest & Simon Mentz also have a good select guide to the 'Grampians' which is still in print.

Approach:© (jgoding)

Just down the road from Mt Rosea but the road above 'Silverband' Falls is currently closed (until further notice).

Getting There:

'Bundaleer' is on the Rosea Track. This can be accessed from Halls Gap by travelling around 8kms up the Mt Victory Rd and turning left into Glenelg River Rd. Take a left turn into Stony Creek Rd and follow it to the locked gate where it intersects with Rosea Track. Turn right at Rosea Track and you will find the access track on the right opposite a small parking area. Even though the road is closed a bit beyond here please park well off the road as Rosea Track is used for fire access.

Camping:

Bush camping is currently prohibited in the fire affected areas of the park - "including the cave at Bundaleer".

The Boreang camp ground is on Glenelg River Rd beyond its intersection with Stony Creek Rd. (Camp fees apply.) It has 15 campsites (sheltered and open), toilets, 8 picnic tables and 8 fireplaces. Note that fires can only be lit in the designated fireplaces. Note also that there is "no" drinking water.

There are other camp grounds such as Borough Huts and Smiths Mill in the area that also have good facilities.

Access:

The access track leaves the road just over from the car parking bay. The track reaches the cliff just near Scarab. To access the routes to the right of Scarab there is a track branching to the right before a large boulder just before it meets the cliff.

Please use, and stick to, the track to access the cliff. It is important that no new tracks are made through the parts of hillside that are still trying to recover from the fire. There is still a lot of vegetation trying to establish itself in the area and it is important for stability that it be allowed to grow unimpeded. For those who remember it, the track used to follow the creek further up the hill and emerged at a "cave" formed by two large boulders. "This track is now closed and should not be used."

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Whalebait M3 Aid 18m
2 Bash-hook M3 Aid 18m
3 * Pyjamaland 22 Trad 20m
4 American Pie 14 Trad 39m
5 Terror Australis 15 Trad 39m
6 Terror Australis Variant Finish 6 Trad 15m
7 Impromptu 17 Trad 15m
8 Whale 11 M5 Aid 25m 2
9 Tour de Farce 19 Trad 30m
10 Wall of the Wad 19 Trad 30m
11 Ferrets and Faggots 21 Trad 30m
12 Tiddler 18 Trad 30m
13 Athos 18 Trad 20m
14 I'll Be 16 Trad 18m
15 Porthos 17 Trad 20m
16 Aramis 16 Trad 20m
17 ** Wedding Cake Island 20 Trad
18 ** Skulthuggery 26 Sport 15m
19 ** Angular Perspective (to first chain)

FA: HB

27 Sport 12m
20 ** Angular Perspective

Steep and sustained. An early HB endurofest.

Start: Some way left of 'Manic Depressive' at the left end of the camping cave

FA: Malcolm (HB) Matheson, 1983

28 Sport 35m
21 * Free-Snaking Thru' the Eighth Dimension 28 Sport 10m
22 Seamy Side 24 Trad 35m
23 The Unkown Soldier 15 M4 Aid 33m 2
24 Fistful of Steel

FA: Matt Brooks

25 Trad 15m
25 Enter Sandman 22 Sport 26m
26 Exit Sandman

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

22 Trad 25m
27 Gargoyle 9 Trad 39m
28 Fertility Instinct 19 Trad 30m
29 Hygarfefoapp 18 Trad 30m
30 ** The Ogive 28 Trad 36m
31 * Dark Passage 23 Trad 30m
32 Pumpernickel 17 Trad 34m
33 Pumpernickel Variant Start 15 Trad 14m
34 * Front Line 24 Trad 30m
35 * Gotham City 26 Trad 20m
36 * Tough Tips 23 Trad 25m
37 Kasolve 19 Trad 48m
38 * Berlin Wall 25 Trad 20m
39 ** Dagon's Temple

Excellent. Thin and technical to start, and thuggish steep on good holds to finish. Well protected mega classic. Better than Blimp? Better than Pathos? Let you be the judge...

Start: About 50-100m left of 'Manic Depressive' is an alcove with an east facing wall. DT is the major crack line going full height.

FA: Chris Peisker, 1978

22 Mixed 25m, 2
40 * Jane 20 Trad 27m
41 * Masters of Pox 24 Trad 35m
42 * Morepox 23 Trad 30m
43 * The Castlereagh Line 29 Sport 20m
44 * Narcotic 17 Trad 30m
45 ** Manic Depressive

A quality megapump

Start: Around about 20m further along past 'Blimp' is a fantastic steep rising face. This is Manic. Please note that in March, 2007 a boardwalk and new cairn have been built by Steve Monks during a VCC & Parks 'Victoria' working bee. Please make sure you use them as the area has been deemed to be of cultural significance and basically people should stick to the board walk and not trample the surrounding area.

FA: Greg Child, 1975

25 Sport 42m, 7
46 * Lunging for Melons

A popular short sport route. The original route wandered up to the top of the cliff by traversing over left into the choss above Manic.

FA: Original - Russ Clune & Mike Law, 1983

FA: Direct Finish - Neil Monteith, 2007

22 Sport 15m, 5
47 * Lunging For Melons Extension

This is the obvious extension to Lunging for Melons, linking Lunging for Melons into Blimp Left Wall. Continue past the anchor of LFM past 3 more ring bolts to the Blimp anchor.

FFA: Adam Demmert, 2014

24 Sport 25m, 8
48 Blimp Left Wall 25 Trad 26m
49 *** Blimp

A stunning corner crack, featuring sustained climbing with great rock and great gear all the way.

Start: The major corner 20m right of 'Manic Depressive'

FA: Bruno Zielke, John Ewbank (19M1), 1969

FFA: Joe Friend, Ian Lewis, 1974

21 Trad 39m
50 ** Dive Dive Dive 26 Trad 30m
51 *** Touchstone Pictures

Sustained thin face climbing on immaculate rock.

Start: About 3m right of Blimb are some tiny holds under a high fixed hanger.

  1. 26m (28) Originally led as one mega pitch but perhaps better now as 2? Up thin face past many FH past some unusual features, R to corner (HDBB)

  2. 20m (26) Thin wall (PR) then L to cracked overhang. Past this to hanging corner (2 BR) to finish past old PR on right.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1989

28 Sport 46m 2
52 ** Ostler 25 Trad 60m
53 * The Beckoning 26 Trad 25m
54 ** Bliss 24 Trad 20m
55 * Sparrows

Starts up corner then break into unlikely double huecos. Finishes up little arête 5m right of bliss. Recommend stick clipping 1st bolt.

24 Sport 15m, 6
56 Reneeobskolosk 20 Trad 48m
57 Infidel 14 Trad 48m
58 * Blanketty Blank 20 Trad 28m
59 Blanketty Blank Direct Finish 24 Trad 10m
60 *** Pathos

Superb well protected climbing on great rock.

Start: About 100m right of 'Blimp' is an attractive bleached arete. 'Pathos' takes the front of the arete up the seam. There is a subtle marking (chiseling) in the rock with the letter P and a square next to it (not painted).

FA: Chris Peisker, 1977

21 Trad 57m
61 Sympathy 21 Trad 25m
62 Lust 22 Trad 28m
63 Cleopatra 13 Trad 55m
64 Cleopatra Direct Finish 13 Trad 24m
65 Crash Dive 19 Trad 25m
66 * Unknown
  1. (23) Climb the buttress left of Minch. Starts up groove / fused crack on LHS of the buttress and takes rising traverse right on slopes after 15m. Pull on to the slab and belay at the level of Flying Circus traverse. 2. (22) Up the slab and pass an overhang following thin crack on the right. Continue up and join Minch for final 5m of that climb.

FA: Unknown

23 Trad 50m 2
67 ** The Minch

Fantastic well protected climbing

Start: The crack 7m right of Aquarius.

FA: Robert Bull, Peter Jackson (alts), 10th Jul

12 Trad 40m
68 The Minch Variant Start 15 Trad 18m
69 ** Flying Circus

Fantastic.

Start: Start as for "The Minch"

FA: Pete Cresswell, Cath Duffill, 1991

21 Trad 50m
70 Martin Rattler 17 Trad 44m
71 Spot On 16 Trad 48m
72 Spot On Variant Start 11 Trad 15m
73 Flying Buttress 17 Trad 45m
74 ** Gerontian

Classic.

Start: Climbs small corner above step in track. Initialed.

  1. 15m (-) Step right at 3m and climb poorly protected wall

  2. 17m (16) Up corner past PR

  3. 14m (-) Step up from ledge and traverse left in hand crack under overhang to vertical crack. Up

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson (Alts), 5th Dec

17 Trad 46m 3
75 ** Gerontian Variant Start 10 Trad 15m
76 Gerontian Direct Finish 14 Trad 12m
77 Melon Was Here 16 Trad 40m
78 Quandary 14 Trad 51m
79 ** Genesis 23 Trad 57m
80 *** Genesis Direct 24 Trad 50m
81 ** Stone Ocean 22 Trad 35m
82 *** Genesis-Stone Ocean 23 Trad 70m
83 * Moloch 18 Trad 46m
84 * Moloch Variant 22 Trad 27m
85 Cocksure 12 Trad 46m
86 * The Frog 16 Trad 45m
87 The Frog Direct Finish 9 Trad 21m
88 * Basilisk 16 Trad 65m
89 *** Basilisk Direct Finish 16 Trad 25m
90 * Basilisk Variant 14 Trad 50m
91 Handicock 14 Trad 52m
92 * Ruined Castles 19 Trad 49m
93 ** Flying High 22 Trad 15m
94 ** Scarab 12 Trad 62m
95 ** Scarab Direct 23 Trad 55m
96 The Singular Raindrop 13 Trad 29m
97 Ball Race 20 Trad 30m
98 * We Don't Like Slopes 24 Trad 48m
99 Castor 12 Trad 27m
100 ** Odysseus 17 Trad 84m
101 Island Cruise 18 Trad 30m
102 * Deckchairs Overboard 20 Trad 40m
103 Pollux 8 Trad 27m
104 Abseil Arete 14 Trad 30m
105 Abseil Crack 5 Trad 19m
106 Little Desert 14 Trad 19m
107 The Gunk 11 Trad 24m
108 Kerplunk 17 Trad 22m
109 The Skunk 11 Trad 27m
110 The Punk 12 Trad 27m
111 * Live Action

Starts about 80m right of 'Island Cruise' on wall with a grey seam up the middle. Traverse in from right to avoid roof, then up the wall. Descent by abseiling off tree 30m to left (facing in, 25m).

20 Trad 30m
112 Sunday Expose 18 Trad 25m
113 Addition 19 Trad 20m
114 Leftover 4 Trad 24m
115 Pamular 8 Trad 30m
116 Pamular Variant Start 16 Trad
117 Primular 12 Trad 28m
118 * Born to be a Turkey 19 Trad 20m
119 * Raindrops Keep Falling on my Head

Done in the pouring rain. Not really sure on the grade it felt harder than 17 but I was slipping around quite a lot at the time. Follow crack on wall right of easier climbs up right then change cracks and head back left.

17 Trad 25m
120 The Price You Pay 19 Trad 20m
121 The Price You Pay Direct 24 Trad 20m
122 Cop Out 10 Trad 25m
123 Total Control 20 Trad 23m
124 Don't Sneeze 21 Trad 20m
125 Realm of Shades 17 Trad 10m
126 Murph Delivers the Goods 17 Trad 20m
127 Noises in the Night 16 Trad 20m
128 They Must've Done It 17 Trad 20m
129 New Front Ear 8 Trad 18m
130 Bold Front 21 Trad 20m
131 Annie's Mistake 18 Trad 20m
132 (Unnamed) 16 Trad
133 Gargoyles and Chicken Heads 11 Trad 25m
134 They've Been at It Again 13 Trad 22m
135 It's Another Boy 11 Trad 20m
136 Cleopatra Alternate Finish 14 Trad 20m
137 Aquarius Pitch Two Variant 13 Trad 17m
138 Surfing With the Aliens 27 Trad 20m
139 Yerba is the Word 21 Trad 25m

1.3.2. Bundaleer Lower Cliff 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Spindrift 19 Trad 21m
2 West End Live 20 Trad 23m
3 Condemned to Live 17 Trad 16m

1.3.3. Calectasia Walls 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Roma 20 Trad 30m
2 Staphylococcus in My Boots 18 Trad 35m

1.3.4. Tower Hill 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.484059, -37.207671

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sickling 16 Trad 10m
2 Tongue in Ya Ear 13 Trad 13m
3 Genitalia Neurosis 17 Trad 16m
4 The Grope 16 Trad 15m
5 Dihedral Dork 15 Trad 16m
6 Slopesville, Arizona 10 Trad 14m
7 Stand in Line 12 Trad 13m
8 Invictus 6 Trad 12m
9 Black Tower Special 19 Trad 15m
10 Pedestal Crack 11 Trad 18m
11 Flying Low 7 Trad 18m
12 Itim 7 Trad 19m
13 Itimized 16 Trad 15m
14 Miti 8 Trad 13m
15 Girl Talk 14 Trad 13m
16 Bechervaise Route

FA: John Bechervaise, Chris Baxter, Mike Dexter, Tim Squire-Wilson

5 Trad 13m
17 Exam Crack 9 Trad 14m
18 Ravenscrux 20 Trad 12m
19 Buttock Traveller 19 Trad 10m
20 * Chic to Chic 19 Trad 15m
21 Rolf Baldwin's Climb 15 Trad 10m
22 Jug Wall 8 Trad 11m
23 Blood Crack 9 Trad 8m
24 Stryletzia 22 Trad 15m
25 Aspidistra 13 Trad 15m

1.3.5. Elephants Foot 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Aid
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Remains to be Seen 16 Trad 20m
2 * Marionette 20 M1 Aid 24m
3 ** The Cut Runs Deep 25 Trad 20m
4 * Ginger 20 Trad 20m

1.3.6. Equinox Walls 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Too Tripped to Trot 20 Trad 30m
2 Pocketed 19 Trad 25m
3 Ornamental Belay 17 Trad 25m
4 To the Manor Born 14 Trad 25m
5 * 586 BC 16 Trad 25m
6 Fencing the Fridge 20 Trad 22m
7 The Fall of Jerusalem 15 Trad 22m
8 * Equinox 18 Trad 22m
9 Heartland 21 Trad 20m
10 Shingles 19 Trad 20m
11 Crescent Moon 15 Trad 25m
12 Boy Racer 15 Trad 25m
13 Catching the Rainbow 15 Trad 25m
14 Random Acts of Violence 17 Trad 25m

1.3.7. Western Wall 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The extensive escarpment north of Bundaleer is mostly juggy and of no interest. The exceptions are a pair of attractive buttresses near tghe east end, near the junction of Stony Creek Road and the Mount Rosea Track and another wall 200 metres right of these..

Approach:

From the road junction walk south-west on flat at foot of rising ground for about ten minutes. Now up a little to the left (east) to west-facing pair of buttresses.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Dogs Outside the Eternal City 18 Trad 15m
2 * The Kingdom of Nothingness 19 Trad 16m
3 A Close Thing 14 Trad 17m
4 A Close Thing Direct Finish 17 Trad 5m
5 Publish or Perish 16 Trad 19m
6 Misery 19 Trad 12m
7 A Distant Relation 15 Trad 16m
8 Days of Wine and Roses 15 Trad 16m
9 * The Illusion of Power 16 Trad 16m
10 Left in the Lurch 13 Trad 14m
11 * Black Hunter 19 Trad 14m
12 Cruise Control 16 Trad 14m
13 Little Wing 20 Trad 14m
14 Show and Tell 18 Trad 16m
15 Swamp Harrier 18 Trad 18m
16 Samakand 16 Trad 15m
17 Sanity Break 18 Trad 15m

1.3.8. Stony Peak 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Nipper 14 Trad 20m

1.4. Mt Rosea 193 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.503106, -37.192664

Unique Features And Strengths:

Mount Rosea is one of the premier adventure climbing crags in 'Victoria'. At its best it offers superb grey stone set just on or just below vertical for three or four pitches.

Description:

With the base of the climbs at 800 metres the cliff is good for climbing in all but the hottest weather despite facing north-east with few permanently shaded area. However it can get very cold when it goes into the shade in mid-afternoon even on otherwise fine days.

For ease of finding routes the cliff is described in five blocks. First there are the three main climbing areas: 'Left side', 'Giant's Staircase' and 'Main Cliff'. Left are the climbs below and left of the Giant's Staircase. Giant's Staircase has the climbs left of the landmark of 'Tourist Buttress' and then left and up the Giant's Staircase. Main Cliff' has all the climbs on 'Tourist Buttress' and to the right from there. Then there are the fairly worthless Northern and Summit cliffs which can be ignored by anyone not utterly desperate for new routes.

All documented climbs should be in here though not all have topos.

Useful Info: This is not a good cliff for beginners. Many of the easier climbs tend to be poorly protected and follow complex routes offering many opportunities to stray into hostile territory. The "serious" flag has been liberally applied to these climbs. To enjoy leading at Rosea you should be leading about grade 14 trad.

The cliff suffers from the scourge of the "select" guidebook. Routes that are not in the "select" guide tend to be rarely climbed and are becoming dirty.

Many years ago the starts of most of the climbs were marked with a small white square and the initials of the climb name. While it makes the start of the climbs easier to find it is not a practise that should be encouraged and the initials are not being redone as they fade. Where the initials are still visible they are referred to as either clear (visible from some metres away), faded (easy to see when close), or faint (there but easily missed). It's interesting that people have been known to do the wrong climb by relying on the initials: there are 3 climbs at Rosea with the clearly visible initials CC at the start.

Approach:

Take Grampians Road (Halls Gap - Wartook road) to the Sundial turn-off. Follow this for a few kilometres to the Rosea parking area. From here follow the Mount Rosea walking track for about 5 minutes until a well-defined track goes off to the left and a walking track signpost indicates that the walking track continues straight ahead. Take the track on the left which contours across the slope and eventually a series of hairpin bends lead to the foot of the cliff. Please don't cut the corners on these bends as the hillside erodes easily.

Descent for the majority of the climbs on the main faces is via a walk along the walking track at the top and down the Giant's Staircase. For climbs on Main Cliff' and Giant' Staircase, follow the walking track towards the summit (south-east). For climbs on the Left side, follow the walking track away from the summit. The turn-off to the Giant's Staircase is sometimes marked with tape or cairns (current Nov 2013). It is not really obvious but it is just a little towards the summit side from a low point on the track. GPS reading for top of Giants Staircase: 37.190150 S, 142.502186 E. Try not to make any additional trails in this area. Hopefully a sign will be erected here at some stage showing the people on the main track which way they should be going.

1.4.1. North Cliff 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

This cliff, well to the right of the main climbing area is glaringly obvious from the walking track. However it's also obvious why so little interest has been shown in it. Natural protection is sparse and vast amounts of loose rock will have to be removed first if you're to remain sane (and keep your head). The cliff has received more than one visit from climbers but this is the only climbing that has been done.

This cliff has not yet been visited to check any details.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Walk up the Mount Rosea Track for five minutes until the cliff is visible above. Head straight up through open bush, then on scree. Grid Reference 327834.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fossil's Folly

Very loose with dubious pro.

Start: About two-thirds of the way along the cliff (from the left) is a cairned, square-cut grey groove.

FA: Wayne Maher, Chris Baxter, 1992

18 R Trad 35m

1.4.2. Left Side 69 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.505000, 37.193000

Description:

The left side of Rosea is the area below the Giant's Staircase and moving left from there. Unfortunately the upper sections of the climbs here tend to break down and there can be a lot of dirt and bushes in these parts. This does tend to detract from what are often high quality lower pitches. It is not until the area around The Last Act is reached that the climbing could be said to be good all of the way to the top. Still, there are many great climbing experiences here. You could do a lot worse than setting out to climb all of the Dewhirst/Zielke routes done in 1969-70.

Approach:

Head off left at the third hair-pin bend on the walking-track. The route across below the cliffs is currently somewhat overgrown and rough and there is some fallen timber.

Descent Notes:

Climbs close to 'The Last Act' can abseil down this route either from the terrace at the top of 'Dinosaur Gully' or the very top. Requires 2 x 50m ropes. Alternatively follow the walking track back along the cliff-top to the top of the Giant Staircase which may be marked by tape and/or cairns and is at 37.190150 S, 142.502186 E

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Margarita

OK face climbing on good rock. Not a bad climb to fill out the day. The start and finish will be dirty .

Start: Where the access pad reaches the cliff at a thin seam at the right hand side of a smooth wall.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Peter Cunningham, 1981

18 Trad 23m
2 * Out On A Limb

Lovely face climbing. The first 5m shared with 'Shadrach' isn't as bad as it looks. It's a good idea to reserve two #1 (Red) and one #2(Gold) Camalots or equivalent for above the bolts. Start as for 'Shadrach'. Up, chimneying between tree and face. Move out right on the horizontal tree-trunk to BR. Climb face right of crack past another BR to tree belay and abseil (or finish up 'Shadrach').

FA: @kieranl,James McIntosh, 2015

14 Mixed 20m, 2
3 Shadrach

Loose blocks, old bolts and pitons (yum, yum). Could be OK, you never know.

Start: Below left-facing corner with faded initial S

  1. 24m (14) Steeply up past the right side of the tree. The crack on the right wall of the corner is fairly gross. Better to go up thin cracks to the left of the wide crack, then traverse back right to the wide crack (large cam). Up a move to a rotten chockstone then boldly up out onto the right wall. Nice moves on lovely rock with just enough pro to move back left to the crack high up and go up to tree belay.

  2. 27m (15) Traverse diagonally left for 6 metres above orange wall of corner. Climb wall to grassy ledge (?peg). Traverse back into corner and climb it past loose block to ledge. Old bolt belay.

  3. 9m (-) 'Layback' up corner left of bolt to roof. Hand traverse left to ledge.

  4. 15m (-) Finish up wall above roof.

FA: John Moore, Bruce Osborne (alt), 1966

15 Trad 75m 4
4 Shadrach Direct Start

This harder start to 'Shadrach' is something of a mystery as there are two possibilities for where it goes.

The obvious line is the attractive orange groove almost directly above the start of the pitch. The major problem with this is that it wouldn't naturally finish at the tree at the top of the first pitch, it would go straight up unto the second pitch. There's no mention of the long traverse that would be required to get to the tree. There's also the problem of no apparent protection for quite a way after the ledge at 6 metres.

The other possibility is to move back right from the ledge at 6 metres into the corner left of the wide crack of the first pitch of 'Shadrach'. This traverse isn't mentioned but there appears to be a peg scar in this corner and the line goes to the tree belay. The major problem with this option is that the block in the corner appears to be suicidally dangerous.

The description is taken from the existing sources and doesn't make a choice between the two options.

Start: Seven metres left of 'Shadrach' under an orange groove.

FA: Ian Ross, Barry Noye., 1967

16 R Trad 33m
5 The Decameron

The weak wordplay in the name may have been vaguely amusing in the early seventies but even that value has long gone. Avoid it.

Start: Start about 5 metres left of 'Shadrach' DS, 12 metres left of 'Shadrach'.

FA: Keith Lockwood , Andrew Thomson (alt), 1973

16 Trad 63m
6 * Memories of Provence

Supposed to be good climbing on all pitches. Lovely grey and orange rock on the first pitch.

Start: Start at small undercut corner 10m right of Big Boys Don't Cry.

  1. 30m (22) Up corner for 4m, move right into groove, follow groove to roof. Traverse right onto ledge, step back left (PR) and through break in overhang (BR). Up to small stanec.

  2. 30m (18) Cracks in right wall of corner then back into the corner. Up until progress is blocked, step left and go up to rejoin the corner. On to ledge.

  3. 30m (17) Step left into orange corner, up to roof, traverse left to break then up steep corner. Finish up face.

FA: Jeremy Boreham, Phillip McMillan, 1997

22 Mixed 90m 3, 1
7 * Big Boys Don't Cry

Fairly good but the start is a bit scarey and there's a dangerous boulder on the third pitch. Maybe take the alternate start and drop the grade to 18.

Start: Short smooth corner capped by a roof just right of 'Meshach'.

  1. 20m (21) Corner to roof, undercling left, diagonally right. Alternatively climb the undercut groove corner that starts 5m further right (currently obscured by a dead tree).

  2. 30m (18) Thin face crack and through weakness in roof. Right wall of corner.

  3. 40m (18) Hard start to corner then crack in right wall to ledge above balanced boulder. Up right arete.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran (var). Alternate start : Phillip McMillan, Jeremy Boreham, 1997

21 R Trad 90m 3
8 Big Boys Don't Cry Alternate Start 18 Trad 15m
9 * Meshach

Excellent sustained climbing, especially on the first half. Dirt and bushes detract from the latter half of the climb. Originally done in three pitches.

Start: Starts at the letter "A" as for 'Abednego' and takes the right-hand line.

  1. 41m (16) Follow the line past a tiny stance at 30m to a good, scrubby ledge.

  2. 40m (16) Move past the conifer and on up corners to the top with some dirt and scrub

FA: Bruno Zielke, Chris Dewhirst (alt), 1969

17 Trad 81m 2
10 Abednego Direct

May be worth a look.

Start: Start as for 'Abednego'

  1. 21m (-) The corner then onto left arete and up a good crack as or 'Abednego'. Move back right as for that climb and belay.

  2. 24m (-) Bridge up to scrubby ledge above V-corner.

  3. 25m (18) Off-width and corner to tree.

  4. 15m (-) Up then up and right through scrub.

FA: Richard Evans, John Stone, 1984

18 Trad 85m 4
11 Abednego

Some good climbing but again it's a bit scrubby and doesn't inspire as much as its neighbours for some reason.

Start: As for 'Meshach' by the Initial "A", 15m right of 'Coronary Country'.

  1. 30m (16) The corner then onto left arete and up a good crack. Back right and bridge up to roof. Traverse 6m left and up over a small overhang to small (?dead) tree.

  2. 27m (-) Corner above until steeply overhanging crack forces a 2m traveres right. Up shattered corners across sloping ledges.

  3. 30m (-) Left and up through scrub

FA: Bruno Zielke, Chris Dewhirst (alt), 1969

16 Trad 87m 3
12 Bushwalking With Gordon

Maybe a good first pitch but the name gives more than a hint of what's on offer.

Start: As for 'Cream'

  1. 37m (18) Up the 'Cream' corner and head up diagonally right and up to the first belay of 'Abednego'. Step right and up twin cracks to ledge/cave.

  2. 53m (-) If you can be bothered go 6m left and then fight your way up for two more pitches, occasionally straying onto rock.

FA: Mark Poustie, Campbell Mercer, 1993

18 Trad 90m 2
13 * Cream

Great face climbing on first pitch.

Start: 'Small' corner 8 metres right of 'Coronary Country'

  1. 41m (20) Corner then face, veering left towards left edge of face

  2. 49m (-) Scrubby finish which may have bits in common with top of 'Coronary Country'.

FA: Tim Beaman, Roland Pauligk (alt), 1977

20 Trad 90m 2
14 ** Coronary Country

The brilliant first pitch originally involved desperate and dangerous aid (M7) on which Noddy learned how to place RURPs. He also placed his first bong in what should have been his first good runner at the end of the crux. However Noddy didn't know how to use bongs so he put it in sideways and carried on in blissfull ignorance.

The free version avoids the RURP seam by easier climbing just to the left. Take a full rack from RP 0 to #4 Cam.

The upper pitches are much easier so parties abseil after pitch one (bring some tat for the bolts) and it seems that no-one has bothered freeing the second pitch. The third pitch had it's single aid point eliminated at the giddy grade of 10.

Start: Start by the column leaning against the cliff.

  1. 33m (26) Climb just left of the RURP-seam into the all-too-obvious line and follow it over a roof to ledge and bolt belay.

  2. 24m (13 M2) Corner then four aids to pass roof. Up to conifer.

  3. 33m (10) Go 3m right, up to ledge, corner, traverse left then back up right to tree.

  4. 12m (-) Scrub

FFA: pitch 3 Chris Baxter 1980s

FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter (alt), 1969

FFA: pitch 1: Kim Carrigan, Steve Monks, 1986

26 Aid 100m 2
15 * Gillian

Dramatic line with sustained climbing. You only get the tick if you do all of the climb.

Start: Corner 10 metres left of 'Coronary Country'

  1. 33m (16) Up corner, steeply past right side of triangular roof, back left to belay.

  2. 30m (15) On up corner past the right side of another roof.

  3. 21m (18) Corner to a large ledge. Don't walk off but climb hard overhang and then up line.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Bruno Zielke (alt), 1969

18 Trad 84m 3
16 * Ma Cherie

Lovely first pitch but then deteriorates a bit though quite sustained and not well protected on pitch 2. Have given it a star for the first pitch. This was the last of the climbs put up at Rosea by the Dewhirst/Zielke team from 1969-70.

Start: Start as for 'Gillian'.

  1. 30m (15) Up the corner for 6m, move 2m left then up the wall to ledge.

  2. 36m (16R) Diagonally left for 10m then right and up to a large, bushy ledge below a clean off-width corner. It is thought that repeats of this climb have gone too far left on this pitch and ended up at the smooth corners at the beginning of the final pitch of Renate.

  3. 18m (16) The corner.

FA: Bruno Zielke, Chris Dewhirst (alt) and Fred Langenhorst, 1970

16 R Trad 84m 3
17 Nightmare

Savage looking corner leads into overhanging, undercut crack. Looks very dramatic and with lovely rock but first pitch has poor protection and the third pitch deteriorates. Probably worth a star but needs a repeat by a sufficiently strong climber.

Start: Smooth wall below a steep left-facing corner about 10 metres left of 'Ma Cherie'.

  1. 16m (22) Short fierce wall into corner. Halfway up this corner to the roof pull dramatically out to the right arete and up to a small stance.

  2. 22m (-) Steup, traverse left to short corner capped by overhang: turn this on left. 'Steep' crack to ledge on right.

  3. 32m (-) Scrub, short chimney, step right and up (to) hard corner.

  4. 20m (-) Corner (suspect that this is the middle of three corners, but could be right-hand. Left one is 'Renate', right one (16) has been done on a repeat of Ma Cherie )

FA: Tim Beaman, Sylia Lazarnick, 1977

22 R Trad 90m 4
18 * Renate

Very sustained with mostly OK protection but the third pitch has a poorly protected corner. Expect to find a bit of dirt as it is rarely climbed but it is worth it.

Start: Below the major corner about 20m left of Gillian/Ma Cherie.

  1. 12m (16) The wall right of the bushy corner to ledge below the main corner

  2. 39m (18) Climb the corner which gradually eases to belay under an overhang, which can offer a little shade on a warm day.

  3. 39m (17) Step right and go up 5m to below three corners. Boldly up leftmost corner, taking care with rock, then to ledge on left. 'Steep' crack off ledge to top.

FA: Bruno Zielke, Chris Dewhirst (alt), 1970

18 R Trad 90m 3
19 * Cry Freedom

Awkward seam leads to lovely crack system that has tantalised climbers for over two decades. A long sling will be needed for the rap-anchor.

Start: Start 5m left of 'Renate' at a seam that marks the right end of smooth orange wall capped by an overhang.

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, 1994

20 Trad 25m
20 Here Comes The Bride

Wandering route starting up 'Cry Freedom' and finishing up what are probably the last two pitches of 'Royal Blues'. Has a hard start and finish but is unlikely to be popular. Start as for 'Cry Freedom'

  1. 20m (19) Climb Cry Freedom for 5 metres, traverse 2 metres left then up weakness for 4 metres (difficult gear). Traverse 2 metres left to rest. Up easily to horizontal break and small overhang below where wall steepens. Up weakness above to horizontal break and tiny stance.

  2. 25m Up wall above then veer up 2 metres left to weakness. Climb this, over bulge, then up right into small corner which leads to stance below roof. Beware of large detached blocks at top of this pitch.

  3. 20m Traverse 4 metres right to large flake. From top of flake, go 2 metres left then up seam to bushy ledge.

  4. 45m Walk left for 25 metres on ledge to where it is much wider and clear of scrub. Climb attractive corners above to stance.

  5. 20m (19) Crack above to cracked overhang. Surmount this with difficulty and finish up corner.

FA: Chris Baxter, Kieran Loughran (alt), 2001

20 Trad
21 Twitter and Bisted

Steep wall with a terrible-looking bolt leading to roof and then a lot of easier climbing.

Start: Just before the track next to the stops abruptly below a terrible-looking bolt at 4m.

  1. 20m (22) Go up left from BR to roof. Left for 2m and up through weakness.

  2. 90m (-) Up more easily for two pitches (that's all the detail there is). It probably joins pitch 3 of 'Royal Blues' after about 20 metres and finishes up that climb.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Glenn Tempest, Geoff Gledhill, 1983

22 R Trad 110m 2
22 * Royal Blues

An attractive seam up a smooth wall to an overhang still has one or two aids on the overhang and should go free to a tall climber. However, as usual the climbing eases off dramatically after the first thirty or forty metres.

The aspiring aid climber can view the bathook holes at the start and salivate. Bear in mind that the carrot bolt runners are aid, not protection, bolts

Start: Below the obvious seam up the smooth wall.

  1. 21m (23 M0) The seam past the odd carrot. Use one or two of the bolts in the roof for aid and then continue up to bolt anchor

  2. 27m (-) Up.

  3. 22m (-) Crawl right to bushy line, up to terrace (apparently Steve Monks straightened this out a bit). Now up left.

  4. 30m (-) Groove, shallow corner. Step left and up slightly right to below yellow corner.

  5. 20m (-) Corner, poor rock. Exit right around overhang.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter (var)., 1969

FA: Mostly free : Steve Monks, Ginette Harrison, 1994

23 M0 Aid 120m 2
23 ** Bourgeois Blues

A great first pitch up the corner but then the climbing eases dramatically and deteriorates in the second half of the climb.

Start: Below the huge corner on the left side of the smooth wall, just right of the large overhang. Clear initials BB.

  1. 27m (24) The corner, exiting on left wall

  2. 30m (17) Continue up the line passing first overhang on right.

  3. 18m (-) Left and up to terrace

  4. 21m (10) 6m up flake, step left, up to scrub, right to corner.

  5. 33m (10) Up, veering right

FA: Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood (var). Pitch two freed by Peter Lindorff in. First pitch cut to two aids by Tim Beaman and Sylvia Laznarick in 1977. Freed by Kim Carrigan 1978., 1969

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

24 Trad 130m 5
24 Silverband

Wandering and serious for the grade. The start is unattractive and overall it's not very appealing.

Start: Start at the left end of the grotty wall left of the big overhang (front of buttress down right from "Vee Wee").

  1. 25m (-) Go up 3 metres and traverse right to a tree (a steep grade 15 direct start climbs the corner to the right). Move up more steeply, veering left into a small chimney. Traverse right from a chockstone and go up to a ledge.

  2. 21m (-) Step down and continue right into a corner. Up a little then right along a ledge for 7 metres to a weakness which is climbed for 6 metres. Move right again.

  3. 12m (-) Traverse right to just past a bush.

  4. 23m (-) 'Steep' climbing above the bush leads to a large bushy ledge just right of a chimney.

  5. 23m (10) Climb the chimney to a large ledge and continue up the corner on the left for 5 metres. 'Steep', strenuous climbing on dubious holds leads to a large, scrubby ledge.

  6. 21m (-) Climb 6 metres up the flake-crack on the clean wall left of the scrubby area. Step left and go up to a forest. Walk right to a corner.

  7. 33m (-) Line of weakness, veering right, to the top.

FA: Geoff Shaw, Chris Davis (alt)., 2nd Sep

10 R Trad 170m 7
25 Misspent Youth

Wanders too much and crux is harder and more poorly protected than the rest of the climb.

Start: Start as for 'Vee Wee'.

  1. 30m (14) Scramble up to wide crack in right wall. Up this to ledge then face above (old PR) (this is a for Vee Wee) and exit right to a ledge (this pitch same as for Bad Moon Rising)

  2. 35m (17) Traverse easily right to the overhanging arete which is climbed on jugs to a small ledge. Up a few metres on rounded, mossy rock and traverse left to the arete which is climbed to a small stance.

  3. 30m (-) Go up to the roof above a yellow block. Veer up left on the arete above to a goood, large ledge.

  4. 20m (-) Straight up to terrace.

  5. 30m (-) Short wall and finish up chimney-crack on the right.

FA: Mike Stone, Chris Baxter (alt), 1975

17 R Trad 150m 5
26 Bad Moon Rising

Good second pitch, which originally had a lot of aid, including sky and bat hooks, but otherwise ordinary. The route length appears to be exaggerated.

Start: Start as for "Vee Wee".

  1. 30m (15) Scramble up to wide crack in right wall. Up this to ledge then face above (old PR) (this is as for "Vee Wee") and exit right to a ledge.

  2. 30m (20) The corner for 15 metres before heading up right to a ledge.

  3. 44m (-) Diagonally left (?PR) then back right to a crack leading to a terrace.

  4. 42m (-) As for "Vee Wee".

FA: Geoff Gledhill, Chris Baxter (alt), 1969

20 Trad 150m 4
27 Vee Wee

Used to be considered some sort of classic but it's not much fun. The exit from pitch two is not for the stout of body.

Start: Below huge line festooned with moss and rotten rock. There is a wide crack in the right wall.

  1. 27m (15) Scramble up to wide crack in right wall. Up this to ledge then face above (old PR) and exit left to bushy ledge.

  2. 27m (16) Up the main line and move up right around roof. Crawl up into cave and squeeze through hole to terrace.

  3. 42m (13) Move up to the chimney above and up for 15 metres to broad ledge. Finish up the chimney. This pitch looks as though it has a lot in common with the finish of The "Stinger" but I can't clearly remember it.

FA: Kevin Sheehy, Phill Seccombe (alt)., 1966

16 Trad 96m 3
28 * The Magellian Heart

Should be good climbing out on the buttress rather than in the dank chimnneys. Third pitch looks outstanding. The route is now considered grade 20 but which pitches have that grade is not clear.

Start: Line up buttress just left of "Vee Wee"

  1. 30m (20) Line then right and bulging flake. Step right to belay.

  2. 28m (20) Thin crack on front of buttress

  3. 20m (18) Up on block then crack in orange wall. The final wide section can be avoided by going up left on flakes. This pitch was later written up be Peter Steane as a variant pitch to Stinger. He used the flakes out left to finish which may have been new ground.

  4. 22m (20) Middle buttress from terrace.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Ed Neve, 1978

18 Trad 100m 4
29 The Stinger Direct Finish 14 Trad 22m
30 * The Stinger

Good adventure with the well protected crux right at the start. Good adventure but the first pitch crux is now very mossy. There is no way it can be climbed free at 15 in its current state [but it is easy to pull up on a good bit of gear or 2 and avoid that section] Well worth the effort. Start: The major left-facing corner about 10 metres left of 'Vee Wee'.

  1. 36m (15) Easily up to a dirty, technical, well-protected layback section then on up the corner to a ledge below a steep chimney.

  2. 12m (13) The chimney and belay above the hole (or continue up next pitch).

  3. 21m (13) The crack above, right across the top of a thin buttress (passing below a juggy, overhanging crack). Traverse right above the terrace and climb the rib entering the gully(old piton).

  4. 33m (15) V-chimney to terrace and up steep chimney to top. Alternatively, the original finish : when on terrace, walk 10m right and belay. Go 3m up chimney, right on ledges and up over prow.

FA: Fred Kitchener, Peter Jackson, John Fahey. Freed: Peter Jackson, 1964

15 Trad 120m 4
31 * Drone Bee

A direct finish to 'The Stinger' in a magnificent situation but with some poor rock and protection.

Start: As for 'The Stinger' (the major left-facing corner about 10 metres left of 'Vee Wee').

  1. 36m (15) Easily up to a technical, well-protected layback section then on up the corner to a ledge below a steep chimney. This is as for pitch 1 of 'The Stinger'.

  2. 12m (-) The chimney and belay above the hole. As for Pitch 2 of 'The Stinger'.

  3. 30m (16) Left to corner and up it to terrace. This is sustained, runout in places and probably dirty.

  4. 30m (16) Steeply up front of recessed buttress. Finish up chimney. Not sure exactly what this corresponds to. Another finish is to take a slabby, poorly protected groove up left to a chimney (may be the same chimney referred to just above). Up the chimney and exit right near the top. Robyn Storer, Kieran Loughran 09-1981.

FA: Keith Egerton, Jim Nelson (alt) c., 1976

15 R Trad 60m 4
32 * Vosaxis

Fairly irrelevant. Five metres of desperate climbing on an otherwise easy, wandering, long climb.

Start: Start as for "The Stinger".

  1. 36m (15) Easily up to a technical, well-protected layback section then on up the corner to a ledge below a steep chimney.

  2. 12m (-) The chimney and belay above the hole.

  3. 21m (-) Left along ledges and up a little. Easily left again and up to a large ledge with conifer.

  4. 16m (-) Diagonally right to another tree. Up to thin flakes and traverse left on them to large ledge.

  5. 16m (22) Step right and up 2 metres to a conifer. Step left and up to stance. Corner to next stance. Now up hard orange corner and step left at top.

  6. 30m (-) Left through scrub and up chimney (as for final pitch of "Curtain Call").

FA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson (alt), 18th Apr

22 Trad 130m 6
33 * National Acrobat

Sustained climbing at grade 18 up the middle of the great wall left of" The Stinger" before wandering over to a desperate crux up the "Vosaxis" corner. Small wires and RPs are needed.

Start: At weakness in wall 5 metres left of "The Stinger"

  1. 25m (18) Climb weakness until able to move left and up a steep wall.

  2. 25m (18) Make way up wall to another small ledge.

  3. 30m (17) Up to and up flake then traverse a long way left to steep orange corner. It is also possible to pick your way diagonally leftish to the base of the corner.

  4. 10m (22) Fierce thin corner is fiddly to protect (many small wires).

  5. 30m (17) Crack just left of arete.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Glenn Tempest, 1977

22 Trad 120m 5
34 Curtain Call Variant Start 18 Trad 22m
35 * Curtain Call

The early pitches look good and are reputed to have poor protection but things deteriorate higher up. It is thought that the short bolt ladder at the top of pitch 1 has not been freed. The route is described as done free. It might be advisable to rationalise the pitches a bit. Maybe extend pitch 1 a few metres to the ledge and then run pitches 2 and 3 together.

Start: About 30 metres left of "The Stinger" at the clear initials CC

  1. 15m (18) Climb thin crack until 3 metres below old bolt then traverse 4 metres right to stance (original continues direct on aid to ledge and then moves right along ledge to join pitch 2).

  2. 29m (21) Continue right to a left-facing corner and climb it to a ledge a few metres higher (original route joins from left). Up flake-crack and wall above. Go diagonally up left, then traverse 8 metres left to single dubious BB below a wide groove. It would be much safer to continue up next pitch.

  3. 15m (-) Groove to ledge.

  4. 22m (-) Up right to ledge. Traverse 12 metres left and climb bushy corner.

  5. 14m (-) Corner to ledge, step left and over block to terrace.

  6. 42m (-) Scrub then chimney. Alternatively, do the last pitch of "National Acrobat", just to the right or abseil from the top of "The Last Act", just to the left.

FA: Clive Parker, Chris Baxter (alt), 1968

21 R Mixed 140m 6, 3
36 The Last Act Direct Finish 19 Trad 25m
37 The Last Act Variant 19 Trad 25m
38 *** The Last Act

Awesome line and climbing. Not many grade 22 leaders flash this so it's bumped up to 23.

Start: Start below the fantastic corner left of 'The Stinger', 6 metres left of the clear initials CC. Faint initials LA.

  1. 20m (18) Corner to stance in chimney

  2. 25m (23) Corner to roof and left past peg to ledge. An alternative pitch, if you are tired of life, is to launch out left at 3m, go 8m diagonally left and then straight up to the belay.

  3. 25m (20) Chimney then corner. Around roof to second ledge.

  4. 30m (-) Move 6m left and up corner. Alternatively, and much easier, climb the wall directly above the belay. Kim Carrigan, Andrew Thomson 10-12-1974.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Ian Guild, Peter Jackson (var). Pitch 1: 2 aids, 2 and 3 all aid, pitch 4 1 aid., 1966

22 to 23 Trad 100m 4
39 ** The Edge of Reality

This route started life as an aid route and covers some interesting territory. Unfortunately the first pitch is very dirty. It was cleaned for the free ascent but a soak at the top of the pitch means that it gets dirty very quickly. Also, the section shared with 'Dinosaur Gully' detracts somewhat. The star is for the climb in a clean state.

  1. 21m (21) Climb twin cracks and traverse to corner on right. Up corner, exit left to bolt belay.

  2. 28m (20) Step right around overhang and up to second one. Left and up wall to ceiling. Traverse left and up (dangerous loose flake) then up to next roof. Left to arete. Up to second belay of 'Dinosaur Gully'.

  3. 24m (15) As for 'Dinosaur Gully' pitch 3.

  4. 30m (23) Thin crack up and right from middle of ledge to corner. Corner to terrace.

FA: Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood (var). Pitch 1 freed : Simon Mentz, Andrew Eastaugh 1988. Pitch 1 variant and pitch 2 freed: Roland Pauligk, Tim Beaman (alt) 24-09-1977. Pitch 4 freed: Simon Mentz, James Falla Easter 1989., 1969

23 Trad 100m 4
40 ** Bubbles-Dinosaur Gully Direct

A good wall approach to the fantastic 'Dinosaur Gully' DF. However the start is a bit gnarly, the hanging belay is a nuisance, the flake on the second pitch seems dangerous and ... It's good but not as good as might be hoped. Also, the start is wet for a long time as it's subject to seepage from the soak at the top of pitch one of 'Edge of Reality'.

Take some big gear and lots of slings.

Start: 'Flake' pillar about 7m left of 'The Last Act', as for 'The Edge of Reality'.

  1. 20m (15) Up flake pillar, taking care with rock, then tend left up easy orange wall to semi-hanging belay at major break. Belay when you first reach the break as it makes changing over much easier.

  2. 25m (17) Swing up left over pocketed bulge. Once over this move right, up small corner to hollow flake (take care), left along flake then up left to belay below overhang.

  3. 45m (17) Bridge around overhang and continue up to small grassy ledge (belay here if you did a shorter second pitch). Up short corner to roof and crawl through the slot on the right. Climb the crack above in an outrageous position past a series of bulges to a terrace.

FA: James McIntosh, Wayne Maher, 1994

17 Trad 90m 3
41 ** Dinosaur Gully

This is not as good as used to be thought but still a good, old-fashioned climb with good rock and protection. The final pitch is not very good with the direct finish being a vastly better, but harder option. Doing the first pitch of 'The Sloth' would also improve the climb at no change in grade.

Start: Chimney 15m left of 'The Last Act'. Initialled "DG".

  1. 25m (-) Climb a few metres up the cminey and then traverse left to a ledge. Follow the juggy line above to a big ledge.

  2. 24m (-) Go right into the shallow chimney and follow it to below the overhang.

  3. 24m (15) Around bulge and up groove to below roof. Either traverse easily left to short hard corner or move up to roof and hand-traverse left (this option discovered by Chris Baxter).

  4. 28m (-) Walk left and up line on right side of pinnacle and continue up line.

FA: John Fahey and Peter Jackson., 7th Mar

15 Trad 100m 4
42 Dinosaur Gully Variant Finish 15 Trad 30m
43 Pterodactyl

An alternative to the scramble off. Also referred to as 'Dinosaur Gully' 'Variant Finish'.

Start: From the eucalypt that overlooks pitch four of 'Dinosaur Gully'

FA: Steve Hains, Bruce Somerfield, 1992

16 Trad 30m
44 ** The Sloth / Sloth

This fine line used to have a reputation as some sort of horror-show with poor rock and protection. This has seen the climb get little attention. Jerry Maddox enhanced the climb's poor image by adding a direct finish that was characterised by dirt and loose flakes. However recent ascents have established that the route is a ripper, especially if the maligned direct finish (as described) is used. A sustained, demanding climb that should be on everyone's Rosea tick-list.

Include some large gear and slings in the rack.

Start: The chimney 15m left of "The Last Act". Initialled "DG".

  1. 20m (15) Start up the left wall and then follow the steep crack to a big ledge.

  2. 36m (17) The sustained line 5m left of the chimney past an overhang at 30 metres to a big ledge. Take some care with the rock at the start. Protection is adequate but not brilliant.

  3. 33m (17) Climb crack to bulge. Continue straight up steep groove on flakes (original traverses 6 metres left to another groove and goes up that) to top. Take some care with the rock but protection is good.

It was thought that combining the good first two pitches of 'The Sloth' with the DG DF would give a really great route. However, the linkup is contrived and difficult and it is much better to do 'Sloth' with it's own direct finish.

FA: Chris Dewhirst and Chris Baxter. Direct on Pitch 3: Jerry Maddox, Jim Nelson., 1978

17 R Trad 89m 3
45 Sloth Direct Finish 16 Trad 28m
46 * The Seventh Lamb

A left-to-right girdle from 'Dinosaur Gully' to 'The Stinger'. Good fun.

Start: From the first belay of 'Dinosaur Gully'.

  1. 25m (16) Traverse right to a belay on the right arete of 'The Last Act'.

  2. 30m (-) Traverse right to 'The Stinger'. Abseil off bollard or continue up 'The Stinger'.

FA: James McIntosh, Alan Hope, 1993

16 Trad 55m 2
47 * The One Night Stand

Mostly easy climbing on good rock with two short bouldery sections on pitch two. Originally heavily aided on all pitches in wet conditions and not finished in daylight. Some parties have descended by a 50m abseil from the old bolt at the top of pitch two but this is not advisable.

Start: About 30m left of 'Dinosaur Gully' (faded initials ONS) at a weakness below an overhang.

  1. 30m (13) Up a little and traverse right into corner. Up to major break and traverse left onto ledge.

  2. 24m (23) Boulder thin seam off ledge then up easier ground for a ways to another hard section (old bolts and pegs) then easy to stance and old bolt.

  3. 50m (14) Climb the groove above then move up to base of pinnacle. Up the right side of the pinnacle and up to terrace (as for DG).

FA: Phillip Gledhill, Geoff Gledhill. Freed : Kieran Loughran variously with Allan Hope, Ian Smith, Bill Andrews. Winter., 1984

23 Trad 110m 3
48 The One Night Stand Variant 18 Trad 30m
49 * Rise and Shine

A Beaman route with an aid point! The start is ordinary but the second pitch looks sensational.

Start: 12 metres left of "One Night Stand" at the left of two cracks just left of overhang.

  1. 25m (-) Left of two cracks, with some vegetation at the start, to ledge and tree on right

  2. 30m (20 M1) Corner, move right to arete and up to ledge. Short corner to overhang (one aid) and steep wall above to ledge on right.

  3. 40m (-) Up lower-angled section to distinctive flake. Above flake follow line on left to terrace.

  4. 12m (18) Finish up "Hypocrite" (originally finished up "Saturday Special")

FA: Tim Beaman, Sylvia Lazarnick, Tony Dignan, 1977

20 M1 Aid 130m 2
50 Rameses

Start: At the large flake crack.

  1. 27m (-) Climb the flake-crack past the tree and under a chockstone to another tree.

  2. 24m (-) The corner abovce, occasionally on the right wall to a tree on ledge.

  3. 36m (15) Up left to the chimney and follow this to bushy ledge. Now the small corner or the crack on the left.

  4. 40m (-) Scrub then traverse right and climb the chimney.

FA: Laurie Lovelock, Julie Tulloch, Keith Lockwood, Bill Andrews, 1972

15 Trad 130m 4
51 Saturday Special

An early climb here but not a classic. Sort of follows the same feature as 'Rameses' with variations.

Start: Start as for 'Rameses'.

  1. 27m (-) Climb the flake-crack past the tree and under a chockstone to another tree.

  2. 24m (-) Left wall of corner for 5 metres then onto right wall and up to tree on ledge.

  3. 12m (-) From right end of ledge move right, up crack then belly-crawl and 3 metres right to belay.

  4. 24m (12) Go 6 metres up crack just left of belay. Step left onto face and up to move right at overhang into chimney. Up to top of chimney.

  5. 15m (-) Corner

  6. 30m (-) Buttress above.

FA: George Glover, Greg Lovejoy (alt), 29th Apr

12 Trad 130m 6
52 Crock's Crawl Variant 12 Trad 39m
53 Crock's Crawl Direct Start 14 Trad 28m
54 Crock's Crawl

A very indirect start to a major line. Originally the third pitch was considered the crux but, as with so many of these old routes, some horror-show unprotected chimney sections went totally unremarked. Perhaps modern climbers are just wimps.

Start: Start at the large flake-crack as for 'Rameses'.

  1. 27m (9) The flake-crack past a tree and under the chockstone to another tree.

  2. 21m (9) Traverse left across wall, move around arete, cross a scrubby corner and belay on a ledge below a small roof.

  3. 9m (10) Climb the corner, passing the roof on the left.

  4. 33m (10) The pleasant crack to the terrace. A pointless ring-bolt and chain will be encountered as some point.

  5. 30m (11) The very poorly protected chimney on right (last pitch of Big Chimney) to the next terrace. Scramble off up a gully on the left.

FA: Geoff Shaw and Jack O'Halloran. Chrs Baxter, Clive Parker added the first pitch, 1969

9 R Trad 120m 5
55 * Crocks Direct

This collection of variants to Crocks Crawl offers a fairly direct route up the cliff. There is some poor rock, particularly on the top pitch.

Start: Start at a crack midway between 'Rameses' and Big Chimnney.

  1. 28m (15) Climb to the roof, traverse left and mantleshelf. Climb the overhang then follow the crack (a bit mossy, need traffic) past a tree to ledge below a corner leading to a roof. Chris Baxter, Clive Parker 02-01-1969.

  2. 39m (10) Go left around the roof and climb the pleasant crack to the terrace (combine 2nd and 3rd pitches of Crocks Crawl). A pointless U-bolt and chain will be encountered at some point.

  3. 30m (15) The wall right of the chimney on the right of the terrace. Up awkward groove to sloping ledge then up the centre of the wall past 3 U bolts plus some natural gear. Move back left into the gully after the last U and then up (run-out) to the terrace. U-bolts placed sometime in recent years. Greg Lovejoy, Fred Anchel, Steve Craddock April 1964.

15 R Mixed 97m 3, 4
56 * Miracles in My Pockets

A sustained route up the wall left of "Rameses". There is some very bad rock in places.

Start: Four metres left of "Rameses". There is a cairn of rocks leaning against a tree.

  1. 35m (22) The centre of the wall past bolt on bulge then steep pockets to belay.

  2. 50m (21) Up the pocketed wall and pull through the bulge immediately left of the ominous block. Step right and follow rightward diagonal flake then straight up via honeycombed, bulging seam. Pull over prominent ironstone extrusion into a small corner. Step left, up wall and finish at top of corner. Walk right to Last Act abseil.

22 R Mixed 85m 2, 1
57 The Crock Of Roland

This variant is written up separately so that people know not to go near it. A recent (2010) excursion onto it by a Rosea veteran found it pointless and dangerous, on revolting, steep, escapable rock.

Start: Start at the second belay of Crock's Crawl, below the roof.

FA: Roland Pauligk, Daryl Carr, Rob Taylor, 1966

16 X Trad 39m
58 * Big Chimney

What can you say? It's a big chimney, a major geological feature. The second pitch is truly awesome. Most modern climbers will find the crux to be the poorly protected chimney sections rather than the well-protected first pitch. This has traditionally been graded 9 but, as with many old Rosea routes, it is much harder than routes of that grade at 'Arapiles'.

Start: Find the landmark chimney, about 60 metres left of 'Dinosaur Gully', 20 metres left of 'Rameses'. There are faint initials BC on the left wall but if you need these to positively identify the climb you should go home.

  1. 24m (11) Up the line to an awkward bulge at 6 metres. There's an ancient peg runner here but good wires just below and a large cam (#4 Camalot just works but #4.5 would be better) makes it redundant. From the stance above pull up the unlikely little arete on the right. Jugs and a finger crack lead back into the line above the grunge. Up to a cool belay behind the huge chockstone.

  2. 22m (11) Chimney straight up from the chockstone. When the chimney widens slightly move in to a thread belay.

  3. 24m (11) Still more chimney to the next chockstones. A recent ascent climbed up to the outside of the chockstones but this was quite insecure until a U-bolt was encountered just below the chockstones. Possibly more secure to climb this section deeper in the chimney. Now easily up to the terrace.

  4. 30m (11) Chimney on the right of the terrace. This does not look very hard but protection is almost non-existent. Alternatively, climb the wall immediately right of this chimney, pitch 3 of 'Crocks Direct', grade 15.

FA: George Glover, Greg Lovejoy (alt). Variant finish : Greg Lovejoy, Fred Anchell, Steve Craddock., 1964

9 R Trad 100m 4
59 Big Chimney Variant Finish 12 Trad 30m
60 St Vitus Dance

Not Rosea's most attractive climb. Vegetated line 4 metres left of 'Big Chimney'.

  1. 21m (17) Cimney-crack to a ledge.

  2. 42m (-) Up corner past large tree and old bolt to chimney. Up chimney until above roof.

  3. 24m (-) Chimney

FA: Andrew Thomson, Keith Lockwood (alt), 1972

17 Trad 87m 3

The next two climbs start from the terrace directly above Big Chimney.

61 * Hypocrite

Nice wall climbing on grit like rock. This route had four un-glued u-bolts in place that were removed by hand during the onsight ascent. Very good trad is available all the way up this climb. Bring a full rack to #3 SLCD size.

Start: Starts at small orange corner with tiny roof above that sits directly below a rounded arete.

FA: Neil Monteith Mike File, 2005

18 Trad 14m
62 * Travesty

Excellent thin wall climbing with unlikely natural gear. 'Small' wires are useful.

Start: Starts 2m left of 'Hypocrite' just left of the arête.

FA: Mike File Neil Monteith, 2005

19 Trad 14m
63 * Matador

The first 3 pitches are good, exposed and sustained. The fourth pitch is just a chimney and the last is a way off. The grade 17 variant finish is the best way to complete this fine climb.

Start: About 130 metres left of 'Big Chimney' at a crack leading to a roof at 10 metres. Clear initial M.

  1. 28m (16) Crack to cave below roof. Strenuously over roof, and follow the crack to base of a corner.

  2. 18m (14) Traverse 5 metres right and climb diagonally right up the nose to a thin crack. Up this and then move up for 2 metres on rounded holds. Traverse 6 metres left to below the left of two cracks.

  3. 15m (14) The left crack and then veer left to a stance.

  4. 19m (-) Traverse 6 metres left to an obvious chimney. Up this to a big ledge.

  5. 24m (-) Move the belay 10m to back of the ledge. Climb easy chimney on the left. Better to do the variant finish instead.

FA: Jerry Grandage, Alec Campbell, Daryl Carr (var), 1966

16 Trad 100m 5
64 Matador Variant Finish

This is a fitting finish to this long overlooked climb. Start on the terrace at the top of pitch four. Move 2-3 metres left to undercut crack at lefthand edge of ledge. Up the crack, following it rightwards on the steep headwall. To get off, scramble back then up and right to reach the walking track.

FA: Phillip Armstrong, Matthew Pearce, Peter Cody, 2010

17 Trad 25m
65 Toreador

Several sections of good, sustained climbing. Some rounded sandy rock detracts from the overall quality. Start: 45 metres left of Matador where a crack splits a narrow buttress. The climb starts to the L of the buttress where a short section of bushes has to be negotiated to reach the crack [originally graded 13].

  1. 27m (14) Crack to small stance below overhang.

  2. 18m (16) Step right (useless old PR) and up steep groove to finish over a quite awkward bulge.

  3. 27m (16) Tricky crack through bulge to ledge. Step R and up wall on poor rock and protection (as originally led). Or move 2 to 3m L and pick your way up and R to ledge next to gully (as originally seconded, this option protects OK).

  4. 30m (14) Down and L into gully and up crack on opposite wall. A bush bash up and R from the top leads eventually to the track.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Tony Amiconi, Julie Tulloch (var), 1972

16 Trad 100m 4
66 Spelio Pinnacle

Unusual mix of caving and climbing and finishing on a pinnacle to boot!

Start: About 45 metres left of 'Toreador' at a chimney/groove. Faint initials SP on left side of crack. There is a nice looking thin seam taking the front of the narrow buttress 2 metres to the right which should help to locate this climb.

  1. 24m (10) The chimney to above the second constriction

  2. 22m (-) The chimney to an overhang at about 10 metres. Traverse right to the foot of the pinnacle proper.

  3. 13m (-) Bridge up behind the pinnacle to the top. (Descend by reversing this pitch and going down the hole)

FA: Geoff Gledhill, Alan Gledhill (alt), 1968

10 Trad 59m 3
67 * Raw Prawn

Tackles some dramatic territory. Some parties have had trouble following the description but the route has recently been repeated and a logical, attractive first pitch description provided.

The topo has been updated to reflect this.

Start: About 60 metres left of 'Spelio Pinnacle' and about 10 metres right of a major roof-capped corner (Burning Daylight). Start from blackened white gum tree."I can't imagine any sensible modern climber wanting to scramble unroped up the steep dirty wall below the white gum tree [now stunted and blackened by the fires but still alive]" (Phillip Armstrong).

  1. 44m (13) Up easily to tree on large ledge [possible belay], up crack behind tree a few metres then move L into L leading flake line. Follow the flake to a good ledge under the roof in the big R facing corner. ( Original : Climb line and move left to a ledge below a roof.)

  2. 26m (13) Up and right around roof. Traverse left 3 metres below next roof to chimney and up chimney to ledge below another roof.

  3. 30m (-) Step right and go straight up into scrub step out right and up. This pitch is just a way off.

FA: Michael Stone, Chris Baxter, Geoff Gledhill (var) and Julie Tulloch, 1973

13 Trad 110m 3
68 ** Burning Daylight

The great roof-capped corner down the left end of the cliff is a mixed bag. The main corner on the second pitch is great but the rest of the climb is not in the same class.

Start: Scramble up to below a small corner below and just right of the main corner.

  1. 13m (15) The little, left-facing corner and left to the main corne.

  2. 43m (20) The corner to the roof and traverse 10 metres left to an exposed stance.

  3. 40m (15) Continue traversing left under the roof (hand traverse at first then large ledge) and up the first possible break from the ledge, a left-slanting chimney. Belay off a chockstone about 10 metres up the chimney

  4. 43m (18) Move out onto the face on the right and traverse right for about 20 metres to the middle of the face. Up the wall to finish through a slot in the final roof.

FA: Roland Pauligk, Tim Beaman (alt)., 1977

20 Trad 140m 4
69 * Melanoma

One of the few worthwhile aid routes in the Grampians, with a huge roof at the very top of the cliff. It is written up with the direct start, which is the best way to do the climb.

The original start (two pitches) came in to the base of pitch four from 45 metres up the gully to the right via mostly easy climbing and a few aid bolts.

It is likely that significant sections of the lower pitches could be freed relatively easily. Using 60 metre ropes could help to run the lower four pitches into two giving a significant time saving on the approach to the roof. Head torches have been found useful in the past. Take 2 bat-hooks and 11 hangers.

The climb is about 750 metres from where the main walking track is left, with the final 400 metres being relatively slow. Expect to take between 45 minutes to an hour-and-a-half from the car with packs.

Start: Below the obvious line leading to the huge roof at the top of the cliff about 150 metres left of 'Burning Daylight' (400 metres left of Big Chimney). Scramble about 10m up onto a block.

  1. 27m (- M4) Move left and up incipient groove to ledge. BB on right.

  2. 40m (12 M3) Step up right (BR) and then left to the foot of a crack. Free up the crack, switching to aid when necessary. Finish with some bolts then free to a big ledge.

  3. 10m (-) Step right and up to next ledge.

  4. 27m (- M3) The crack, mostly aid, to below the roof.

  5. 15m (- M4) The thin crack in the outrageously exposed roof.

FA: Chris Baxter, Clive Parker (var), 1970

FA: Peter McKeand, Michael Stone (alt)., 1971

9 to 12 M4 Aid 110m 5

1.4.3. Giant's Staircase 42 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.692333, 37.106000

Description:

The area left of Tourist Buttress and up the Giant's Staircase along the old walking track has some of the earliest climbs done at Rosea. This does not mean that it is studded with classics, far from it. While the small area around Martin Eden offers a handful of brilliant climbs much of the rest around here is mediocre.

Approach:

Where the walking track hits the cliff it does a final hairpin turn and then climbs left up the Giant's Staircase. A pad moves off right at this point along the cliffline towards the major landmark that is Tourist Buttress, about thirty metres right of where the track meets the cliffs. The climbs in the Giant's Staircase area are described starting on the left side of Tourist Buttress and moving left.

Descent Notes:

Follow a rough track south-east along the top until the walking track is reached. Follow the track to the top of the Giants Staircase. The top of this is often marked with tapes or cairns and is at 37.190150 S, 142.502186 E

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Nyingtong

Generally disparaged in previous guides but takes some interesting territory. Originally started as for 'Tourist Direct' but described here with a direct start.

Start: Start just left of the narrow chimney (Brainchild) that marks the left side of 'Tourist Buttress'.

  1. 30m (15) Bridge easily up to ledge. Hard start to the corner off the ledge and up to next big ledge and tree. Up to next big ledge on right with large dead tree (second belay of Tourist Direct).

  2. 28m (11) Corner to difficult exit right around the roof at the top. Up 5 metres to small stance on right and old carrot bolt. (as for Tourist Direct) In the past people belayed here but it is much safer to continue. Traverse 4m left (wire or small cam unit at about 2m) then climb to a ledge (poor protection).

  3. 27m (-) Step left and climb the groove with distinct orange rock on its left. From the ledge above, go up and left to a smaller ledge just below a loose block.

  4. 33m (14) Up past block and up chimney. Step left then up and right. Finish up chimney.

FA: Paul Gillis, Bob Kenyon (alt), 1969

14 R Trad 130m 4
2 * Abysmal Brute

Another great route from Tim Beaman. It is unlikely that anyone has repeated the route exactly as climbed, with the original third pitch culminating in a lunge for a hold while a good 6 metres above the last gear! Mercifully there is an alternative!

Start: Start left of 'Nyingtong' at short wall below buttress split by crack, 10 metres right of where the walking track meets the cliff.

  1. 25m (16) Wall to small ledge, short, flared chimney then hand crack to large ledge

  2. 40m (19) Overhang then steep layback above. Go up more easily to top of easy-angled section.

  3. 35m (19) Up and right to the right of two steep corners. Corner past overhang to ledge then unprotectable off-width corner which all parties since the first ascent have avoided on right at grade 16.

  4. 20m (18) Continue in line

FA: Tim Beaman, Bryan Kennedy (alt) Gary Wills, Dick Evans did the variant on the third pitch., 1977

19 Trad 120m 4
3 * A Bottle of Brut

A companion to 'Abysmal Brute' which you'll need to locate first.

Start: Start at big line immediately left of 'Abysmal Brute'.

  1. 27m (13) Up line to big ledge on right.

  2. 40m (19) Overhang 2 metres right of 'Abysmal Brute' and up steep line. Now up slab to second belay of that route (old DBB).

  3. 25m (19) Up left to grey groove in left arete of left one of a pair of steep, orange corners. Groove until it runs out on its right arete. 'Steep' headwall to scrubby ledge.

  4. 48m (19) Up left on rising ramp for 15 metres to intersect chimney at half-height. Chimney until it peters out. Up and right to finish up highest and steepest section of buttress.

FA: David Gairns, Chris Baxter, 1997

19 Trad 140m 4
4 Tourist Direct

An old wandering route that used to be considered something of a minor classic but has fallen into disuse. It was originally done in eight pitches but several of these can be combined and there are a couple of belay points that are probably best bypassed.

There is a lot of good climbing but the poorly protected section across the slabs at about 40 metres is a serious lead despite being quite easy.

Pinpointing the start is a bit difficult as existing descriptions rely on initials which are no longer evident.

Start: Start just right of where the track reaches the cliff at wide line just right of 'Flypaper Wall'.

  1. 24m (-) Easily to wide corner. Up corner until 5 metres below its top then traverse 3 metres right to ledge

  2. 17m (-) Right along the boulder-strewn ledge and up short corner-crack to terrace on the right.

  3. 33m (11) Corner to difficult exit right around the roof at the top. Up 5 metres to small stance on right and old carrot bolt. In the past people belayed here but it is much safer to continue. Traverse 6m left (wire or small cam at about 2m). This is quite easy but some of the large footholds are very mossy. Up diagonally left on clean, unprotected rock to old piton runner. Step up (excellent small cam placement 1m above peg) and move another 6m left to a tiny stance but good anchors.

  4. 22m (-) Go up for 3 metres then veer left to a long ledge. Traverse 9 metres left to below a conifer. It is possible to traverse right from this point along the break all the way to 'Tourist Buttress'. Unless you are doing the first ascent of 'Tourist Buttress', don't bother. Climbed by Herbert Schipper, Greg Lovejoy Easter 1963.

  5. 25m (-) The line just right of the belay then go up and left to an obvious long chimney. Climb up on the right and step left into the chimney and up to a good ledge on the right.

  6. 25m (-) Continue up the line which is steep at first. When about 10 metres below the top there is a choice of continuing straight up or going left and up. The left way is supposed to be easier but is a bit rounded and poorly protected at the very top.

FA: Geoff Shaw, Robin Dunse (alt), 1961

11 R Trad 150m 6
5 Tourist Direct Variant Finish 12 Trad 36m
6 Tourist Direct Variant 8 Trad 63m
7 * Doc's Chimney

Major line. The mossy poorly protected face at about 40 metres detracts from things.

Start: Start as for 'Tourist Direct'

  1. 41m (-) Climb the first two pitches of 'Tourist Direct'

  2. 33m (-) Corner to difficult exit right around the roof at the top. Up 5 metres to small stance on right and old carrot bolt (as for Tourist Direct). In the past people belayed here but it is much safer to continue. Climb the face on the left to the overhang. Up the corner, largely by its left wall to a big jammed block. Go left around the block and up through scrub above.

  3. 15m (-) Climb a small overhang and go up easily into the chimney.

  4. 18m (14) Chimney up 3 metres and out onto triangular ledge (ancient PR). Move back into the corner and go up into the smooth V chimney. Struggle up this and move left as soon as possible into an unlikely-looking shallow groove and go up to a ledge.

  5. 18m (-) Go Up.

FA: Chris Davis, Ian Guild.., 1963

14 R Trad 130m 5
8 * Flypaper Wall

Another old route that takes some hostile territory but doesn't get done often these days. Some of the pitches (esp. 2&3) could well be combined.

Start: Below twin cracks on a ledge a few metres above the hairpin bend where the track meets the cliff.

  1. 27m (11) Climb the right-hand crack past an ancient piton runner. Move right above the piton and go up to a ledge above a large tree.

  2. 24m (11) Climb the corner for 3 metres and traverse left for 12 metres. Move up on small holds and then more easily up and left to a tree.

  3. 12m (10) Step right and climb an awkward crack to the next tree.

  4. 30m (11) Move up a little to an easy traverse left for 12 metres to a corner. Climb the corner and continue straight up to a bushy ledge. Move left to belay.

  5. 33m (-) Move right into the gully that leads to the top. A very poorly protected finish at grade 16 is to climb straight up the rib above the belay. Bern Lyons 1963.

FA: George Glover, Greg Lovejoy, 2nd Apr

11 Trad 130m 5
9 * Showpiece Crack

A good sustained climb leading to an appealing crack high on the cliff. Previously described in disjointed fragments as variants to 'Flypaper Wall'.

  1. 27m (11) Climb the first pitch of 'Flypaper Wall'.

  2. 36m (11) As for the second and third pitches of 'Flypaper Wall'

  3. 20m (14) Climb the corner directly above the belay, taking care with some loose rock at around 6-8m, to belay below the clean wide crack.

  4. 33m (12) Climb the wide crack in a great position for 18m and step right onto a ledge. Now easily to the top.

FA: Peter Jackson,Ed Potworoski, 31st Jan

FA: John McLean,Roger Caffin, 1966

14 Trad 33m 3
10 * St Valentine's Day Massacre

Lovely little pitch for the end of the day. A bit of dirt at the very start and end will clean up quickly.

Start at the same point as 'Flypaper Wall'. Climb the lefthand flake-crack. Over bulge above to foot of slab. Easily right on break to tree on Flypaper Wall

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, 1998

15 Trad 30m
11 * Sweet Maggots

Better than the name suggests. The first pitch can be done in its own right and would clean up well. This route incorporates 'Showpiece Crack', an obvious feature high on the cliff which looks brilliant from high on the Giant's Staircase and is still good close up.

Start: Below a mossy looking gully/groove just up left from the hairpin bend where the track meets the cliff.

  1. 47m (16) Climb the groove, step left and up the delicate face to a tree on the left.

  2. 33m (15) Layback up 5 metres, step right around a nose and follow the corner tending slightly right to belay at the beginning of a short chimney or continue a few more metres to the foot of 'Showpiece Crack'.

  3. 40m (12) Go up the chimney then up the wide crack ('Showpiece Crack') for 18 metres and step right onto a ledge at its top. Continue easily

FA: Peter Canning,Tim Beaman, 31st Jan

16 Trad 120m 3
12 ** Fuschia

Great climbing up the right-hand seam on the grey wall. Take many wires down to #0 RP. Scramble off right to tree.

FA: Ed Neve,Hugh Foxcroft,Gary Wills. Early 1980s

23 Trad 35m
13 * Titus

More good climbing up the left-hand seam on the grey wall. Scramble off right to tree.

FA: Ed Neve,Hugh Foxcroft,Gary Wills. Early 1980s.

21 Trad 35m
14 Mr Pye

Pleasant climbing up the left arete of the grey wall after a harder start.

Start: Short crack below the corner marking the left side of the grey wall.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Brendan O'Leary, Jane Wilkinson., 1984

18 Trad 40m
15 * Shibboleth

Devious route with the standard dropping dramatically after the first few metres.

Start: As for 'Mr Pye'.

  1. 42m (18) Climb the hard thin crack then continue up the corner above (loose blocks) to the yellow roofs. Step right to a big ledge.

  2. 27m (14) Straight up the grey wall then traverse down and right across a slab to the first corner. Climb this to the roof and traverse left on loos holdsuntil you can move up to a ledge below a corner.

  3. 30m (-) Bridge the corner to a ledge on the right at 25 metres. Right to a small stance below the next line.

  4. 30m (-) Up to the roof above and go right around it. Up and slightly left on friable jugs then up right into the main lin which is followed to the top.

FA: Geoff Gledhill, Chris Baxter and Julie Tulloch. Aids in the first few metres reputedly freed by Peter Traby., 1973

18 Trad 130m 4
16 * Ralph the Snail Strikes Back

Great climbing but the crux groove leading to the overhangs has loose blocks and poor protection.

Start: Short crack below the corner marking the left side of the grey wall (as for 'Mr Pye' and Shibboleth).

  1. 15m (18) Good moves up the short, thin crack then go diagonally left to the foot of the grrove leading to the middle of the roof.

  2. 40m (19) Groove to roof (loose rock, runout). Corners above roof lead to long ledge with old bolts (relics of an attempt on first ascent of Pall Bearer).

  3. 40m (17) Into corner on left (rotten rock), step right into another crack and up to small ledge (may still be a dead tree here). Corner, flake and groove to top (this last little bit was the finish of Shady Aid)

FA: R Curtis, P Armstrong. varied leads

19 R Trad 95m 3
17 *** Martin Eden

Fantastic climbing through large overhangs. Although the first pitch doesn't offer good climbing and is quite nasty the overall quality of the climb rises above this. Not all parties agree with this.

Start: Just right of a large tree about 40 metres left of where the walking track meets the cliff.

  1. 25m (17) Up difficult, poorly protected grey wall then more easily towards the orange corners and a ledge on the right.

  2. 43m (19) Go up to and up the short corner above then the orange, v-shaped groove on the left. Up this to a ledge on the right.

  3. 44m (18) From middle of ledge, go up towards the huge roof above. Hand-traverse left under the ceiling and pull up into the V-shaped groove at the lip. Groove to top

FA: Tim Beaman, Peter Canning, 1976

19 R Trad 110m 3
18 Martin Eden Variant 17 Trad 20m
19 * Shady Aid

Significant as the first climb to tackle the overhangs on this wall but a bizarre approach from high in a tree and a wandering finish mean that it doesn't warrant repeating. The best part of the climb is now done as the second pitch of 'john Barleycorn'.

Start: Start at the tree by 'Martin Eden'.

  1. 50m (14) Climb the tree and branch until able to step onto the rock. Right to pedestal then up wall slightly left the veer right to detached flake. From right end of ledge up steep wall for 7 metres then left to ledge. Up to a small ledge.

  2. 25m (17) Up to roof, hand travers right to nose. Crack to ledge. This is same as pitch 2 of 'John Barleycorn'.

  3. 20m (15) A little right to climb overhang at weakness above BR. Now up a little and traverse a long way right to ledge and tree.

  4. 25m (-) Climb corner behind and exit right. From top of flake climb steep little wall then up more easily

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Michael Stone, 1973

17 Trad 120m 4
20 Shady Aid Direct Start 16 Trad 40m
21 ** John Barleycorn

Good direct climb with lots of good climbing.

Start: By the large tree at the start of 'Martin Eden'.

  1. 40m (16) Bridge up between tree and face and swing left on a jug and up initial wall. Continue up left-facing corner until 3 metres above wide ramp.

  2. 25m (17) Up to the roof and hand-traverse right to the nose. Up steep grey crack to a ledge on the left.

  3. 43m (18) Climb bulge on left past old bolts (Pall Bearer). Either continue directly in the line passing an overhang on the right or, at 8 metres, traverse right to the arete and climb an exposed crack which eventually rejoins the first line.

FA: Tim Beaman, Roland Pauligk. Independent start : Kieran Loughran, Gary Wills, 1982

18 Trad 130m 3
22 ** Call of the Wild

Fine, sustained climbing with an unlikely crux that's a few grades harder than the rest of the climb and a fantastically exposed hand traverse high on the cliff.

Start: Start about 50 metres left of where the track meets the cliff just left of the big tree.

  1. 48m (18) Awkward start up indistinct crack and continue up to step left at 17 metres to grey crack. Up this to slabby area.

  2. 25m (-) Wander up to ledge 2 metres right of big corner (Bus Stop)

  3. 23m (21) Climb towards off-width roof (careful with loose-looking big block) and at 3 metres launch left and up into corner above. Up a couple of tricky moves then traverse right and go up to ledge. (If you're so minded, skip the crux by aiding the hideous roof crack instead)

  4. 9m (17) Hand traverse right to the prow.

  5. 21m (-) Easily up the wall just right of the arete.

20 Trad 130m 5
23 Call of the Wild Variant 21 Trad 23m
24 * Pall Bearer

Can safely be forgotten. Used to share Bus Stop's worthless start before traversing to the third pitch of 'John Barleycorn'. Lots of aid originally used on pitches 3 and 4.

Start: Start as for 'Bus Stop'.

  1. 42m (-) AS for 'Bus Stop'.

  2. 43m (-) Follow the second pitch of 'Bus Stop' for 25 metres then traverse right to a corner, go up a little and traverse right between overhangs. Up line to belay on right.

  3. 23m (18) Step left and over bulge past bolt. Up corner to tree.

  4. 25m (-) Down, then traverse right to crack. Up, passing overhang on right.

FA: Geoff Gledhill, Chris Baxter. Michael Stone and Geoff Gledhill cut it to three ais in. Freed by Tim Beaman Oct 1976., 1971

18 Trad 130m 4
25 Pall Bearer Direct Finish 16 Trad 25m
26 ** Bus Stop

Starting up the first two pitches of 'Call of the Wild' and finishing up a prominent corner gives quite a good route. The original start is described here but is best forgotten.

Start: Start about 10 metres left of 'Martin Eden'. Faded initals BS.

  1. 42m (12) Up right to a pinnacle, crack up left side of this and wall above. Not a good pitch.

  2. 30m (14) Step right and up groove, right into next groove, up to ledge on right. Along ledge then right on slabs then up left to ledge below overhang (second belay of Call of The Wild).

  3. 18m (17) Left into classic corner and jam to glory.

  4. 18m (14) Corner to top.

FA: Roger Caffin, Bruno Zeller (alt), 1968

17 Trad 110m 4
27 Jiggery Pokery

Major choss starting up 'Bus Stop' and finishing up the prominent corner to the left.

Start: Start as for 'Bus Stop'.

  1. 42m (17) As for 'Bus Stop'.

  2. 38m (-) Left to wide line, up a few metres and right onto face. Diagonally right, step right, straight up to ledge, left to belay.

  3. 40m (17) Left into big corner. Up corner to rotten rock. Crack on right wall to overhang (? multiple peg runners, loose blocks). Dirty moves into clean corner. Up to top with a deviation onto right arete.

FA: Andrew Bowman, Chris Baxter (var), 1973

17 Trad 120m 3
28 * The White Cockade

OK first pitch but the top is not much fun. Both pitches have some loose or hollow blocks and protection is poor at a couple of crucial points.

Note that the variant start which is now graded 17 was put up by the same team on the following day and graded 15 so this route could be undergraded.

Start: Start 2 metres right of Commando Climb.

  1. 42m (16) Climb through break in overhang and follow corner. Step left and up arete and crack to ledge. Up right to ledge with gum tree. Protection on this pitch is poor around the 10-15 metre mark.

  2. 35m (16) Crack to big break (easy escape left), through overhang and up chimney to a hard, sandy finish.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Neil Barr, Peter Watling, 1981

16 R Trad 77m 2
29 * The White Cockade Variant Start

A good pitch but poor protection for the crux section at about 12 metres. Originally graded 15.

Start: Start as for Commando Climb.

FA: Neil Barr, Peter Cunningham, Peter Watling., 1981

15 R Trad 42m
30 Commando Climb

Takes some very unlikely territory for the grade. Also, the third pitch got left out of the 1977 Baxter Guide so heavens know what people made of it. It appears that the climb gains the major horizontal break about 25 metres below the top of the cliff on the third pitch and then traverses off left. Some quite experienced parties have had trouble following the route so it's been given a serious flag for now until it is further checked out.

Start: Up the giant staircase, about 37 metres left of 'Martin Eden'. Clear initials CC.

  1. 23m (12) Pull through the undercut start and straight up for 5 metres. Move right and up a short, scrubby crack to a ledge with a small tree. Continue up, veering right to a bushy ledge.

  2. 30m (13) Climb the line at the right end of the ledge for a few metres to another ledge. Step out left then head diagonally left up the steep wall with little protection to a ledge. Continue up to a small ledge in a corner (?thread belay). 3. 12m (-) Traverse left about 5 metres and climb up to the large horizontal crack. Belay near small conifer.

  3. 21m (-) Move left then scramble. 'Variant Finish' 9 :

  4. 14m Traverse left to below a corner. 5) 20m The corner. Ascent unknown. Exactly where this goes is unclear.

FA: Party Unknown. Easter., 1960

13 R Trad 74m 4
31 Blood On The Rocks

Finishes up a sustained groove in the head wall. Some dirt and loose blocks detract from the climb overall, but it could clean up quite well. Originally graded 14. Start: as for Commando Climb.

  1. 17m (12) Follow Commando Climb to ledge on the right.

  2. 44m (16) Crack on right then up right side of wall [L of closed groove]. Continue up steep seam, when it runs out traverse 3 metres left [loose blocks] then follow right leaning groove to bushy cave below overhang. The route may originally have gone higher before traversing L, this would be very unprotected and quite hard.

  3. 25m (18) Go 4 metres left along scrubby ledge. Crack to ledge on right. RH line with increasing difficulty to top.

FA: Scott Johnson, Toni Taggert, 1994

18 Trad 90m 3
32 Commando Climb Variant Finish 9 Trad 33m
33 Missing In Action

Constantly engaging climbing.

Start: Start as for Commando Climb.

  1. 35m (18) Up for 3 metres then step around left and climb steep orange groove. After about 8 metres the groove dissipates and you can swing left onto the arete. Jugs up left side of arete lead to a technical corner which leads to a ledge.

  2. 25m (-) Move left 2 metres and swing up line via a layback edge and shonky looky (but OK) jug. Up line to major horizontal break.

  3. 25m (-) Around overhang at crack immediately right of belay. Straight up line to dramatic finish through summit overhang. This pitch may be the same as the finish of 'The White Cockade'.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth (alt) and Tim Lockwood., 2001

18 Trad 85m 3
34 Clutching at Straws

Start: Start a few metres left of Commando Climb at a break in the overhang. There used to be some railings here but they have mercifully been removed.

  1. 25m (17) Pull through overhang and go up and step right into left of two parallel grooves. Go up to below overhang.

  2. 30m (-) Up right over loose block and up short groove. Step left to square-cut groove and climb it to next overhang. Crack above to bushy ledge below corner.

  3. 20m (-) Corner, then crack on right wall. (? is this pitch Bernie's Open Book?)

FA: Peter Cunningham, Keith Lockwood, Peter Watling, 1981

17 Trad 75m 3
35 Easter Wall

Worthless.

Start: Supposed to start at initials 100 metres up the Giants Staircase. Not located yet.

  1. 30m (7) Up to large horizontal crack and on to scrubby ledge at 12 metres. Traverse 5 metres right to an undercut crack and up this for 6 metres. Move right and up scrubby chimney to tree.

  2. 9m (-) Move left behind the huge boulder. Climb up to an overhang, move left and finish up a groove.

FA: Geoff Shaw, Jack O'Halloran, 2nd Apr

7 Trad 39m 2
36 Easter Hangover

Pull up and climb the face to a ledge. Step left and pull up on a small nose. Traverse up left into a chimney which goes to the top.

Start: Start 5 metres left of 'Easter Wall'. (? initialled)

FA: George Glover, Greg Lovejoy, 2nd Apr

6 Trad 27m
37 * Bernie's Open Book

Good jamming and bridging exercise but hard to locate, probably because of inaccurate access descriptions in all the existing guides.

Start: Despite many guidebooks saying so this route is NOT accessed from the Giant's Staircase. When heading along the track towards the Staircase from the Northern/Rhand end of the cliff there is a little dip about 160m before the top of the Staircase where the track nears the cliff. Walk to the cliff edge and there is a short steep slightly vegetated gully leading to a ledge about 10m below. Head down to ledge turn R [facing cliff] and go about 5m to get up onto some blocks around the arête. A clean open book corner is directly above. BD 4 useful.

FA: Bernie Lyons. c., 1963

15 Trad 20m
1.4.3.1. End Of The Line 5 routes in Cliff
Summary:
Description:

Not one of Rosea's more inspiring locations.

Approach:

Up the Giant's Staircase for about 150 metres past 'Easter Hangover' until just before the top of the Giant's Staircase. The cliff has broken down considerably here. To find the climbs, first locate 'End Of The Line' and work from that.

1.4.4. Main Cliff 76 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.501925, -37.189975

Description:

The section of rock from 'Tourist Buttress' to 'Mixed Climb' contains some of the best multi-pitch climbs in Victoria. This area includes everything moving right from the left edge of 'Tourist Buttress'.

Approach:

Where the walking track meets the cliff a pad goes off to the right and the base of 'Tourist Buttress' is 30 metres along this pad.

Descent Notes:

Most routes go to the top of the cliff and descent is by following a rough track south-east along the top until the walking track is reached. This track is then followed to the top of the Giants Staircase. The top of this is often marked with tapes or cairns and is at 37.190150 S, 142.502186 E Some abseil descents have relied on trees. Many of these were severely damaged or died in the fires in 2006 and should be regarded with suspicion.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Brainchild

The chimney on the left side of 'Tourist Buttress' ends up in the third pitch of 'Tourist Buttress'. Rarely done. Usually only the first 25 metres is climbed as the 'Tourist Buttress' 'Brainchild' start.

Start: The chimney on the left side of 'Tourist Buttress'.

  1. 36m (16) Climb the chimney to a ledge at 27 metres. Up the corner on the left to a roof. Move right and go up through the break to a ledge.

  2. 35m (19) On the right and above the first pitch is a juggy crack. Start up this and sstep left to another crack before going up right to merge with the third pitch of 'Tourist Buttress' which is followed.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Andrew Thomson, 1973

19 Trad 71m 2
2 ** Crank Hard, Crank Fast 22 Trad 25m
3 * Cruising 22 Trad 82m
4 * Crank Hard, Crank Fast-Cruising

Good arete on the first pitch leads to a link-up of a lot of good climbing both existing and new.

The third pitch goes up to and through the recent rockfall area and extreme caution should be exercised.

Start: Start as for 'Tourist Buttress'.

  1. 25m (22) Veer up left to arete and go up to ledge.

  2. 25m (19) Head up and right and then around arete into second pitch of Fringe-Dweller. Up this to ledge.

  3. 32m (21) Move left and make committing move to a bolt. Continue up wall. Originally finished through a prominent cracked roof (17) to a big ledge but the left side of this roof fell off in the rockfall. Finish up 'Scarface'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Craig Nottle Pitch 1 22-05-1983. Cruising : Simon Mentz, Cameron Brooks., 2000

22 R Trad 82m 3
5 ** Tourist Buttress

An historic route that offers great climbing. It's unfortunate that the first pitch is much harder than the rest of the climb.

Many pitons from the first ascent are still in place but should not be relied on. Pullling on a few pegs on the first pitch can drop the grade to 19, M1

Start: The crack on the front of the buttress. Faint initials TB.

  1. 24m (23) Climb the line to the steepening which can be tackled either directly by a variant just to left, by starting up the left and reaching back right or by aiding.

  2. 20m (18) Step up right and up the wall. Step right to arete. Either go up for 10 metres to a ledge or step left and go up a groove to the same ledge.

  3. 24m (19) The thin groove directly above then move left and up the line bristling with more old pegs. Finish up groove. To add some more excitement you could try resting on one of the pegs to see if it would hold body weight.

  4. 15m (14) Traverse 3 metres right and go up to a ledge beside a large burnt-out tree. Either belay or continue up the last pitch. or 4a. 21m 15 Go straight up the excellent corner-crack above to a ledge. Continue up the awkward crack and move right past a tree. or 4b. 25m 14 Go straight up the excellent corner-crack above to a ledge. Move around right past a wobbly block (? source of recent rockfall) into an attractive corner and follow this.

  5. 33m (-) Easy chimney or finish up 'Scarface'. Or 5a. 9 Up the chimney for 8 metres then left onto the arete. Exposed climbing to the final wall then move right and finish up the chimney left of the original route. Chris Baxter and Chris Dewhirst 25-08-1974.

FA: Herbert Schlipper, Greg Lovejoy (alt) Easter, 1963

23 Trad 120m 5
6 * Tourist Buttress Variant Start 16 Trad 51m
7 Tourist Buttress Variant 1 15 Trad 21m
8 Tourist Buttress Variant 2 14 Trad 25m
9 Tourist Buttress Arete Finish 9 Trad 40m
10 * Scarface

A good, exposed finishing pitch for 'Tourist Buttress' or Ascension, particularly now that the abseil tree is unsafe. Would be even better if the good climbing wasn't so brief.

Start: At DBB next to large tree at foot of final pitch of 'Tourist Buttress'.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Peter Woolford., 1991

21 Trad 38m
11 * Scarface Direct 23 Trad 38m
12 *** Tourist Buttress-Scarface 23 Trad 120m
13 *** The Ascension-Scarface 21 Trad 100m
14 *** The Ascension

Absolutely fantastic. The hard first pitch corner can be a show-stopper and the third pitch arete is awesomely exposed and not brilliantly protected.

Start: Beautiful corner just right of 'Tourist Buttress'. Clear initial A.

  1. 33m (21) Corner which gets harder as the overhang is approached. Up the V-groove on the right side of the overhang and either escape left and up to ledge or continue up groove to ledge.

  2. 9m (-) Diagonally up left and around arete to small stance.

  3. 40m (21) Follow twin thin cracks up the front of the buttress. Protection is OK but not brilliant. Take care at the top of this pitch where loose blocks have been encountered where a huge block has recently fallen off.

  4. 35m (-) Easily up lefthand line or do 'Scarface' (20) which is just to left.

FA: Bruno Zielke, Chris Dewhirst (var), 1969

21 Trad 120m 4
15 ** Skywalker

An intricate line, very bold and well-conceived. While the upper pitches have been incorporated into a hybrid with Fringe Dweller, the first and second pitches are rarely done. Perhaps they are still ahead of their time.

Start: As for 'The Ascension'.

  1. 20m (22) Move up to The ascension corner and make a hard move onto the left arete. Go up to roof.

  2. 15m (22) Climb overhang at right end and go up to ledge.

  3. 24m (19) As for pitch 2 of Fringe Dweller

  4. 18m (23) Thin corner directly above belay to first small ledge (which is probably somewhat below the third belay of Fringe Dweller as shown in topo). The corner has little pro at first with some tricky moves, which gives factor two fall potential if you're belaying at the base of the corner. So maybe consider a hanging belay a bit lower to reduce the fall factor.

  5. 45m (22) Move right into the crack and up the steep, exposed line. Through overhang and corner above. Step right and up to ledge. The length of this pitch seems improbably long given that it is only 45 vertical metres to the top. It is probably because the belay at the start of the pitch is actually much lower than shown in topo.

  6. 25m (18) Traverse left under prow, finishing up deep line above.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Glenn Tempest.., 1981

23 R Trad 160m 6
16 *** Fringe-dweller

A good route with some spectacular climbing and not always the best rock and protection.

Start: As for 'The Ascension',below corner at clear initial A.

  1. 32m (21) Corner which gets harder as the overhang is approached. Up the V-groove on the right side of the overhang and either escape left and up to ledge or continue up groove to ledge. (Same as first pitch of The Ascension)

  2. 24m (19) Step left then straight up passing a bulge and a flaring jam crack to a small ledge below a right-facing corner. Protection is average and the anchors at the belay are good but not obvious.

  3. 27m (-) Traverse 3 metres right (corner directly above belay is 'Skywalker' 23) to smaller right-facing corner. Follow this past two bolts before traversing back left to the original corner which is followed steeply for 6 metres to a small stance on the left.

  4. 12m (20) Up to the triangular roof which is passed on the right. This pitch was originally graded 22 and they climbed a shallow corner 1-2m right of the roof whereas now people climb the right side of the roof (as in photo).

  5. 35m (-) Easily up or finish up 'Scarface'.

FA: Chris Peisker, Tim Beaman., 1976

21 Trad 130m 5
17 * Fringe-dweller Direct 23 Trad 18m
18 Fringe-dweller Variant 17 Trad 16m
19 *** Fringe-dweller – Skywalker Finish

The first two pitches of Fringe Dweller and the finish of 'Skywalker'. The grade drops to 22 if the third pitch of Fringe Dweller is used.

Start: As for Fringe-Dweller, 'Skywalker', 'The Ascension'.

23 Trad 140m
20 ** The Prescription

Originally a long, somewhat contrived aid route. Most of it is now incorporated in 'Skywalker' or Fringe Dweller except for this very nice first pitch. Kevin and Peter Lindorff freed large sections of the first three pitches in February 1975. Higher sections were freed during the first ascent of 'Skywalker'.

Start: Corner right of Ascension. Faded initial P (looks a bit like D though).

FA: Norm Booth, Keith Lockwood, 1970

22 Trad 110m
21 The Presciption Variant 1 16 M2 Aid 110m 2
22 The Presciption Variant 2 22 Trad 50m
23 RIP Corner Pitch 1

The first pitch of RIP Corner. The thin flake crack, which eases before reaching a lower-off near a tree..

18 Trad 25m
24 RIP Corner

A hard elegant flake crack leads to solid climbing at about grade 16. The first pitch is often done in its own right but the whole climb is worth doing. There is now a lower off anchor installed.

Start: 'Flake' crack 3 metres right of 'The Prescription'

  1. 25m (18) 'Layback' the flake, which quickly eases and belay at the bolts tree.

  2. 28m (16) Move up to and then right on sloping ledge and up groove to second ledge. Up to overhang (?peg) traverse left to third ledge. Up the flake to a green wall and corner to a ledge.

  3. 36m (16) Up corner at righthand back of belay ledge then up walls until level with lip of large roof to the left. Traverse left to the lip of the roof. Original pitch went up main corner with loose rock until overhang and then traversed right to join pitch as described.

  4. 34m (-) Bridge up chimney to tree. Up left wall then right wall and on up the line.

FA: Ian Guild, Michael Stone (alt), 1966

16 to 20 Trad 120m 4
25 Dry Reach

High on Rosea no-one can hear your second scream. A traverse of the less-amusing variety.

Start: At the second belay of 'The Last Rites'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Philip Armstrong Late 1970s, 2000

21 R Trad 40m
26 Death Wish

A very bold first pitch with some quite hard moves.

Usually done as a toprope problem after doing the first pitch of RIP Corner.

Start: Midway between RIP Corner and 'The Last Rites'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Peter Lindorff, Mathew Taylor, 1976

20 X Trad 22m
27 ** Requiem

Unfortunately this historic climb is largely superseded by 'The Last Rites'. However it is a bit easier than that route and 'The Toff' so it is a good option for people who might not want to tackle a 19. The climb originally finished up 'Debutante' but is written up here with the direct finish.

Start: As for 'The Last Rites' at the left-facing flake-corner 10 metres right of RIP Corner.

  1. 33m (18) As for 'The Last Rites'

  2. 24m (18) AS for pitch 2 of 'The Last Rites'.

  3. 35m (-) Right to shallow, bushy chimney and up this to ledge. Now corner to belay at foot of Debutante's big corner.

  4. 35m (17) Climb up left, across left wall of Debutante's big corner, crossing another corner (Toff 'Direct Finish' 22) to prow. The exposed crack above.

  5. 20m (15) Corner.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter. Direct Finish (pitches 4,5) Mike Law, Chris Baxter 04-03-1978, 1968

18 Trad 120m 5
28 Requiem Direct Finish 17 Trad 55m
29 *** Requiem-The Last Rites 19 Trad 130m
30 *** The Last Rites

Fantastic climbing from start to finish. Double ropes really help, especially if you want to run some pitches together.

Start: Left facing flake-crack 10 metres right of RIP Corner.

33m (18) Up flake to sloping ledge at 12 metres (manky old PR). There are two ways to go here. The obvious way is to climb directly to the overhang and then step right past it. Good climbing but there is no gear above the sloping ledge until the roof is reached and it may make this pitch 19. The original way is to step right around the arete from the foot of or just below the sloping ledge then up the wall to the lip of the overhang (there used to a peg somewhere about here). Now that the two ways have joined, pull over the bulge (be careful with the flake) onto the wall above the overhang. Either belay on a small stance on the left just above the overhang or continue up several metres to a slightly larger stance on the right (a large wire flicked up into the corner of the next pitch helps with the belay here).

24m (18) Beautiful thin corner to small ledge on right. (Pitches 2 and 3 are often combined.)

26m (19) Step down and follow obvious hand-traverse line out left for 4 or 5 metres to daunting corner (there are actually 3 corners above the traverse - this is the middle one). Up corner and past a peg runner. Exit left above overlap and up juggy wall to long ledge below overhang.

41m (17) Take the steep left-facing corner left of the overhang until it eases and up crack to top.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Bruno Zielke (1 aid on pitch 3), 1969

FFA: Kevin Lindorff, 1976

19 Trad 130m 4
31 * The Loved One

A subtle line out left of 'The Last Rites'. Pitch 2 would make an interesting variation on 'The Last Rites'.

Start: As for 'The Last Rites'

  1. 33m (18) As for the first pitch of 'The Last Rites'.

  2. 20m (20) Up the corner of 'The Last Rites' for a few metres then swing boldly out left to gain the flake on the left wall. Up and left to corner, up 3 metres and traverse left to tree.

  3. 20m (22) Step right to corner left of third pitch of 'The Last Rites' and up this to mantle. Up left arete of blank corner then easily to long ledge.

  4. 35m (23) Up wall to below left arete of orange corner (just left of steep corner of Last Rites). Climb flake up arete over two overhangs. Move left to right-leading crack and follow it.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, 1986

23 Trad 130m 4
32 * Square Route

It's a bit hard to justify calling this early exploration a climb even though it has a quite hard section.

Start: As for 'Debutante'.

FA: Greg Lovejoy, Bern Lyons, 1963

16 R Trad 40m
33 * The Toff

There's lots of good climbing here from the ground all the way to the top. The original route included substantial bits of 'Debutante' and some of 'Requiem'. For a comprehensible route which people might actually climb bits of Toff Direct and 'Requiem' 'Direct Finish' have been grafted on.

Start: Below 'Debutante Direct Start'.

  1. 20m (19) Climb the thin crack just left of 'Debutante Direct Start' to join 'Debutante' at 12 metres. Up to belay where 'Debutante' moves right. A better first pitch may be to do 'Debutante' DS and move left at the top to belay.

  2. 20m (19) 'Steep' corner finishing up groove on right.

  3. 30m (-) Right wall to bushy ledge just above. Left to corner and up to below big corner of 'Debutante'.

  4. 35m (17) Climb up left, across left wall of Debutante's big corner, crossing another corner (Toff 'Direct Finish' 22) to prow. The exposed crack above. Original pitch went up 'Debutante' to big block and then traversed left to pitch 5.

  5. 20m (-) Corner.

FA: Chris Baxter, Michael Stone, Rick White. Requiem Direct Finish (pitches 4,5) Mike Law, Chris Baxter 4-03-1978 Toff Direct (pitches 1,3) Law, Baxter 22-03-1980., 1978

19 Trad 120m 5
34 *** Debutante

Brilliant climb taking the corner systems marking the right side of the great wall right of 'Tourist Buttress'.

Genrally well protected but there are some large apparently loose or detached blocks at crucial points.

Start: Start up a ripply wall 3 metres right of Last Rites.

  1. 24m (12) Up wall for 12 metres then traverse right to corner. Climb corner to block and traverse right to ledge and chain anchor. Contemplate that this ledge used to be occupied by a large tree that people belayed and abseiled from.

  2. 36m (15) Climb the sustained corner, taking care with a large loose block. Continue straight up to belay on a pinnacle. A belay is also possible a few metres lower than this.

  3. 15m (13) Continue up to a ledge and traverse left below the overhang to below a big corner.

  4. 27m (14) Up the corner, moving into the right hand line at about 15 metres. Continue up and make your way over an huge, hopefully jammed block and make an intimidating traveres right to an exposed, small stance. Belay here or move a few metres higher to a better ledge (watch the rope drag though).

  5. 15m (11) From the tiny stance, step right, then up for 5 metres. Traverse left and finish up left groove.

FA: Mike Stone, Ian Guild., 1966

14 Trad 120m 5
35 Debutante Variant

The front of the buttress that forms Debutante's big corner. Appears runout above the overhang.

Start: At the pinnacle at second belay of 'Debutante'.

  1. 35m (18) Corner up front of buttress then overhang, steep wall, flake to large ledge on right.

  2. 15m (-) Traverse left then up nose to belay as for Debutante's last pitch.

FA: Peter Martin, Jenny Plant, 1994

18 R Trad 50m 2
36 Debutante Direct Finish 16 Trad 36m
37 ** It'll End in Tears 24 Trad 80m
38 *** The Toff Direct 22 Trad 120m
39 ** It'll End in Tears-The Toff Direct

Excellent, sustained climbing though a bit scary in places. Also the fixed gear on pitch 2 needs replacing. A direct link between pitches 3 and 4 has been attempted and should go within the grade. That would improve the route further.

Start: Start at ripply wall 3 metres right of the Last Rites (as for Debutante)

  1. 30m (24) Easily straight up the wall to an overhang at 20 metres. Step right and over the bulge with a hard rockover. Undercling left to thin crack and up to tiny stance. It would be a good idea to move up and clip the first bolt on the next pitch as part of the belay.

  2. 24m (23) Up fragile, expanding flake and BR. Up and follow flake right to corner (PR). Mantle into corner and swing right past bolt to arete. Follow arete, easier but runout and groove to small ledge.

  3. 26m (22) Poorly protected and loose. Traverse left across slab and up thin open groove (corner immediately right of Last Rites pitch 3). Past little roof then more easily to long ledge.

  4. 40m (22) Move the belay 8 metres right to below the 'Debutante' corner. Go up a few metres, then left to the next corner and go up this. A great pitch.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran. The final pitch is from Toff Direct MIke Law, Chris Baxter March 1980., 1986

24 R Trad 120m 4
40 ** Debutante Direct Start

The superb crack leading to the first belay of 'Debutante' is intimidating but has excellent holds and gear.

Start: Below the overhang about 5 metres right of 'Debutante'.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Bruno Zielke (two aid points), 1970

20 Trad 24m
41 ** (Unnamed) 26 Trad 15m
42 ** Angry Young Men

This great arete has probably never had a complete ascent and the first pitch may not have been lead-climbed. The bolting on the first pitch really needs to be fixed up.

Start: Start just right of 'Debutante Direct Start'.

  1. 25m (26) Up the magnificent blank arete.

  2. 20m (18) Right to arete and up to bolt belay on 'The Jesus Factor'.

  3. 15m (26) Left on to rib and up past bolt. Finish on right.

FA: Gleen Tempest climbed top two pitches in. Scott Camps later bolted the first pitch which has susequently been toproped., 2000

26 Mixed 60m 3, 3
43 *** The Jesus Factor

Brilliant climb. The first ascent, done without bolts, saw Glenn Tempest braced on a small ledge without a belay holding multiple falls by Marty Beare as he seconded the technically difficult first pitch. Descent used to be by abseil from the tree atop the second pitch but it is not known if that is still safe since the fires. Slings are needed for the abseil if the tree is safe. Probably the best alternative way off is to climb up to the base of Debutante's fourth pitch and finish up 'The Toff' Direct (22). The belay and protection bolts need updating.

Start: Start 20 metres right of 'Debutante Direct Start', 4 metres left of 'Heretic'.

  1. 30m (23) Up left to crack and climb it. Step left and climb cracked bulge. Traveres left at horizontals and up arete to ledge and single bolt belay.

  2. 30m (23) Up right arete with hard moves past a poor bolt (poor nuts nearby). Right and up to big ledge.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Marty Beare, 1983

23 Trad 60m 2
44 * Dust to Dust

Start: Start 2 metres left of 'Speculation', as for 'Speculation' Direct Start.

  1. 23m (-) Up for 5 metres, step right onto rib. Up over bulge to first stance of 'Speculation'.

  2. 29m (20) Crack to left-curving flake then left-facing corner. Awkward exit to large ledge.

  3. 8m (-) Easy wide crack left of big jutting block to ledge on right.

  4. 32m (20) On to flake pedestal from right of the ledge. Climb weakness through bulge from left of pedestal. Go left below overhang and pull onto and up wall. Continue up front of buttress.

  5. 15m (-) Crack in front of buttress. Veer left near top.

FA: Peter Martin, Phil Robertson., 1991

16 Trad 110m 5
45 * Speculation Direct Start

A good varied pitch. With this start and the variant finish Speculation can be climbed as a completely separate line from Heretic. Start: 2m L of Heretic [which is marked with an S] Up cracks and face above.

15 Trad 24m
46 * Speculation

Great sustained second pitch but it eases off dramatically after that. A better and completely independent climb can be had with the variant start and finish.

The original top pitches are not very enjoyable and pass through complex territory with many options leading into loose and poorly protected country. There are no safe abseil trees at this level.

Start: Start at line leading into substantial left-facing corner about 25 metres right of 'Debutante', 4 metres left of a large tree which has recently fallen over, 8 metres left of the clear initial D marking the start of 'Diane'. Used to have a faint inital S but couldn't locate this recently (2013).

  1. 24m (15) Up the crack and through steepening. Up to ledge on the left. Traverse left a couple of metres to good anchors. This is also the first pitch of 'Heretic'.

  2. 36m (16) Traverse 5 metres left to below a crack. Up sustained crack and step right below a bulge to a ledge. Delicate wall for 12 metres (small wires and cams needed). Traverse left to a corner, up it for 5 metres, step left and steeply up to terrace..

  3. 39m (11) Move to the RH end of the ledge and up broken corners heading L ward to the foot of a large steep gully/groove. Up the RH side of this to foot of chimney.

  4. 36m (10) Chimney

FA: Chris Davis, Ian Guild, 1966

16 Trad 140m 4
47 Speculation Variant Finish

This finish is better than the original and makes the climb much more sustained. It should be possible to climb more directly into this finish from the second belay and avoid the section shared with pitch 3 of 'Speculation'.

Start: Start at the second belay of 'Speculation'.

  1. 36m (15) Move to the RH end of the ledge and up broken corners heading L ward to the foot of a large steep gully/groove (this is as for P3 of Speculation). Up crack forming LH side of this, around an overhang and up to cave belay.

  2. 36m (15) Chimney then steep wall and up to below top overhang. Traverse R a few meters to finish up short seam.

FA: Chris Baxter, Peter McKeand, 1978

15 Trad 26m 2
48 Speculation Variant 15 Trad 75m
49 *** Heretic

Climbs don't come any better than this. Sustained quality climbing all the way but be warned that it also has its share of loose blocks, poor rock and spaced protection.

Start: Start as for 'Speculation', at line leading into substantial left-facing corner about 25 metres right of 'Debutante', 4 metres left of a large tree which has recently fallen over, 8 metres left of the clear initial D marking the start of 'Diane'. Used to be marked with a faint initial S but this could not be seen recently (2013).

  1. 24m (15) Up the line and through the bulge. Continue easily to a ledge and move left along it a couple of metres to good anchors.

  2. 23m (17) Move back right and climb the sustained corner to a sloping ledge.

  3. 24m (17) Move 3 metres left and climb the diagonal flake leading back right into the corner. Steeply up the corner past loose blocks to ledge on the left.

  4. 23m (17) From top of detached block pull onto steep juggy wall and up thin crack-line. Up and right to small, bottomless left-facing corner. Steeply up this, dubious rock, then move left and up to a ledge.

  5. 23m (16) Up, then slightly left to left-facing corner which leads to the top.At the start of this pitch it is tempting to move up right to what loooks like an easy escape. Don't do it! The top-outs that way are hard and horrible.

FA: Peter McKeand, Gordon Talbett, 1969

17 Trad 120m 5
50 * Ashes to Ashes

A bit contrived at the start but still a good route.

'Diane' Super Direct (19) by Paul Badenoch appears to be largely a repeat of pitch 3 of this climb but starting a bit more to the left. Description is reproduced in pitch 3. Repeat ascents may clear up whether there are 1 or 2 lines here.

Start: Start 1.5 metres right of 'Heretic'.

  1. 41m (22) Easy corner until half=way to roof then step right and climb bold arete to roof. Break through overhang using crack just left of smooth groove, barely keepng out of 'Heretic'. Traverse right on lip of overhang then up and left up wall to shallow corner just right of 'Heretic' pitch two. Shallow corner and rib above. Move right around arete and up thin crack to ledge (original second belay of Diane).

  2. 20m (-) Move right and up 'Diane' for 3 metres. Step right to arete and go up into the next corner right of 'Diane' and up this to stance on left.

  3. 35m (-) Up line above, with odd formation at 3 metres. Step left and up face and steep wall into hanging corner. Up corner to roof. Exit right. (Diane Super Direct 35 19 From second belay of 'Diane', swing around overhang and head for bottomless corner directly above the belay. Up Corner to belay. Easier ground to top. Paul Badenoch, Sonja Klebe, Brett Sedunary 14-02-1998)

  4. 10m (-) Up

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran (var).., 1984

22 Trad 110m 4
51 *** Diane

Another brilliant climb with a desperate crux on the frist pitch followed by an absolutely sublime second pitch. Sharing the top pitch and a half with 'Heretic' doesn't detract from it.

Start: Start 8 metres right of 'Heretic', about 33 metres right of 'Debutante' just right of a large tree that has fallen over. Clear initial D.

  1. 32m (18) Up easy crack then step up and right and up hard groove through overhang. Above go up then left more easily to ledge below main corner.

  2. 40m (17) Up fantastic corner until it eases at about 24 metres (belay possible). Step right then up for a bit before moving back into the line. Up to a good ledge on the left.

  3. 25m (17) Up weakness in overhangs above and veer left up easy, poorly protected face to left end of overlap. Now continue as for 'Heretic' up small, bottomless left-facing corner. Steeply up this, dubious rock, then move left and up to a ledge.

  4. 23m (16) Up, then slightly left to left-facing corner which leads to the top.

FA: Phillip Stranger, Phillip Gledhill. They wandered way off to the left from halfway up pitch 2 and the route as described was done by Bruno Zielke, Gordon Talbett January 1970., 1968

18 Trad 130m 4
52 * Diane Direct Start 18 Trad 33m
53 Diane Direct Finish 17 Trad 23m
54 *** Diane Direct-Heretic 17 Trad 120m
55 Diane Super Direct 19 Trad 35m
56 *** Hard Times

An intricate route up the rock right of 'Diane'. The direct variants possibly improve the climb - it depends on your point of view. Protection on the final pitches is sparse.

Start: Start at the V-groove just right of 'Diane'.

  1. 38m (19) Climb the grrove until slightly above a tree on the right. Move right below the bulge and climb the crack above the tree to a second, smaller tree in corner.

  2. 20m (-) The corner-crack to a ledge.

  3. 38m (-) Traverse left to tree at the base of two grooves. Follow the right-hand one (left one is Ashes To Ashes) to ledge. Move left over blocks to belay.

  4. 25m (-) Traverse back right from blocks and enter groove. Committing climbing leads diagonally right up the wall to a small stance below final crackless corner.

  5. 25m (19) Traverse left to the crack on the left wall and climb it and difficult territory above.

FA: Chris Baxter, Mathew Taylor (var), 1975

19 Trad 150m 5
57 * Hard Times Variant 1 20 Trad 50m
58 ** Hard Times Variant 2 19 Trad 22m
59 ** Hard Times Direct

A couple of direct variants offer possibly better climbing than the original 'Hard Times'.

Start: Start as for 'Hard Times'

  1. 50m (20) Up to the bulge at about 15 metres and continue straight up twin cracks to a ledge.

  2. 15m (-) Follow the right-hand groove to a ledge below overhang (this is on pitch 3 of Hard Times).

  3. 22m (19) Pull onto the wall at the next weakness right of the start of Ht's fourth pitch and continue up the wall to rejoin HT near the belay.

  4. 25m (19) Traverse left to the crack on the left wall and climb it and difficult territory above. This is the same as the last pitch of 'Hard Times'.

FA: Pitch 1 : Joe Lynch, Jim Truscott 12-1985. Pitch 3 : Roland Pauligk, Tim Beaman, 1977

20 Trad 110m 4
60 ** Mixed Climb

This is the climb that puts the "F" back into grade 12. 'Steep' and sustained and requiring route-finding ability. Pay close attention to the description especially on the third and fourth pitches. Pitches 1 & 2 are best combined because of the poor belay options but great care will need to be taken with drag with lots of slings required.

Start: The line 6 metres right of 'Diane' which is clearly initialled D. To There are no longer usable initials at the base of climb, but just to the right are clear initials KK.

  1. 24m (12) Climb the line which leads into a steep corner. Up this until it eases to a small stance below a crack on the right wall.

  2. 24m (11) This pitch is not as well protected as the rest of the climb. Up to the foot of a small flaring chimney where there is a useless old peg. Go 2 metres up chimney then boldly traverse right for 5 metres. Go up past another useless old peg to a good ledge. There is a large dead tree in this vicinity, don't belay on it.

  3. 20m (10) On up the line for 15 metres (do not go too high) then step right to the foot of a corner.

  4. 21m (11) Traverse 3 metres right then up scrubby gully to a ledge in the corner. Steeply up corner and belay on the right. Not a great pitch.

  5. 31m (9) Climb up wall for 5 metres and then go right into obvious crack which veers up right.

FA: George Glover, Greg Lovejoy (alt), 1961

11 Trad 120m 5
61 Mixed Climb Variant 14 Trad 30m
62 ** The Seventh Seal

Multi-pitch girdle traverses are a weird concept but this long journey at the 20-25 metres mark between 'Mixed Climb' and Tourist is good value. There's a lot of well-protected climbing at about grade 11 or 12. Unfortunately there's one move that's a good deal harder and not well protected which knocks a star off and gets the serious rating.

Start: as for 'Mixed Climb'.

  1. 24m (12) Up 'Mixed Climb' for 24 metres to a small stance.

  2. 18m (-) Traverse left into 'Diane' and up to its first belay.

  3. 15m (-) Down for 5 metres, traverse into a corner, continue into 'Speculation' and up to its first belay.

  4. 18m (-) Traverse left to the left end of the ledge. Drop down and traverse under the roof to the first belay of 'Debutante'.

  5. 30m (16) Traverse across and descend 'Debutante' for 6 metres. Go across the grey wall and around the arete to a sloping ledge in the corner (ancient peg). Up left, delicate and poor protection (thin sling), to another old peg and easily across to RIP Corner - this section with the pegs is as for 'Square Route'

  6. 15m (-) Across the narrow ledge to an overhanging block. Step underneath this and continue traversing left under the roof to the first belay of 'Tourist Buttress'.

  7. 15m (-) Step down left off the ledge and hand-traverse around the arete to a crack. Step down this and go left to the scrubby terrace which is the first belay of 'Tourist Direct'. Abseil from tree.

FA: Bob Connell, Rein Kamar, Keith Wadsworth (var), 1973

16 R Trad 140m 7
63 Work Fodder

Strenuous. Unclear whether it encroaches on the wall climbing that some people do left of the upper crack on 'Knick Knack'. Abseil descent as for 'Knick Knack'.

Start: Start as for 'Mixed Climb'. Up 'Mixed Climb' for 15 metres then traverse 2 metres right and up buttress between 'Mixed Climb' and 'Knick Knack'

FA: Craig Nottle, Doug Fife., 1983

19 Trad 33m
64 Jismhead

Good exposed crack finish. Abseil descent as for 'Knick Knack'.

Start: Start as for 'Mixed Climb', though could also start up 'Knick Knack'. Up 'Mixed Climb' for 15 metres then traverse right across 'Knick Knack' to exposed crack. Up crack

FA: Doug Fife, Craig Nottle., 1983

18 Trad 42m
65 * Knick Knack

The intimidating wide crack on right wall of 'Mixed Climb', initialled KK. Originally done with a cramped belay at the alcove at 12m.

Descent from large slings next to dead tree on 'Mixed Climb'.

Start: Crack 6 metres right of 'Mixed Climb'. Clear initials KK

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Bruno Zielke.., 1970

19 Trad 33m
66 * Warszawa

Some great climbing, particularly on the first pitch.

Start: Right of the overhangs right of 'Knick Knack'.

  1. 35m (20) Up with poor pro to steep fern-choked corner. Swing out left onto undercut nose on arete. Up arete to regain crack above the ferns. Continue past dangerous hanging blocks and up left-facing corner.

  2. 40m (17) Up left side of block and crack above. Step right and climb steep corner-crack. Exit up right to large ledge.

  3. 12m (-) Juggy left arete to next large ledge.

  4. 18m (19) Crack from middle of ledge to largest roof. Exit right up steep crack.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Ed Neve (var), 1982

20 R Trad 110m 4
67 Holocaust

It is hard to believe that this was once a relatively popular climb. The first pitch is more like a garden fernery than a climb.

  1. 33m (20) Traverse into the line from the right. Bridge between the corner and a pinnacle on the right and up over ferns for 10 metres or so. Up left to sloping ledge. Widening crack on left wall for 8 metres to chimney. Step up left to ledge.

  2. 45m (-) Chimney, passing behind chockstones and finish up corner above.

  3. 27m (-) Climb undercut hand-crack just left of large tree at back of terrace then veer right and easily up the as for the last little bit of 'Mixed Climb'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone (one aid), 1973

20 Trad 110m 3
68 Solitude

A hard first pitch and then the standard drops dramatically and the climb wanders its way to the top. It is not clear that anyone has climbed the first pitch free in one push. The first ascent of 'Desperado' freed the climb from about the 16 metre mark. Then aid on the first 14 metres was eliminated during the ascent of 'Fear and Loathing'.

Start: Orange, overhanging corner about 10 metres right of 'Holocaust'. Clear initial S.

  1. 21m (21) Place a nut with a stick an climb the orange overhanging corner past old bolt and loose rock.

  2. 12m (-) The wall to small stance above an overhang.

  3. 17m (-) Traverse left and up chimney to sloping ledge (old bolt).

  4. 41m (-) Traverse 10 metres right and keep traversing right into Mug's Alley. Follow this to overhang and walk left to where the overhang ends.

  5. 33m (-) As for Mug's Alley

FA: Peter McKeand, Gordon Talbett (var)., 1969

21 Trad 120m 5
69 * Fear and Loathing

Start: Start as for 'Solitude'.

  1. 25m (21) Place a nut with a stick an climb the orange overhanging corner past old bolt and loose rock. Step right at 14 metres where the corner steepens.

  2. 23m (-) Continue up corner to black cave, Right and up to belay on 'Solitude'.

  3. 15m (-) Up left to overhang. Left and up on rounded holds.

  4. 15m (-) Corner and arete to terrace.

  5. 30m (-) Corner and crack in orange wall.

FA: Andrew Thomson, Nic Taylor (alt), 1977

21 Trad 110m 5
70 * Desperado

Start: Start below the right arete of the 'Solitude' corner.

  1. 20m (21) Climb the thin diagonal, joining 'Solitude' at about 16 metres. Up 'Solitude' to its old bolt belay.

  2. 16m (-) Right and wall as for 'Solitude' pitch 2. Above the bulge travese left to below the chimney.

  3. 14m (-) Chimney, as for 'Solitude'.

  4. 45m (-) Traverse 3 metres right and climb onto the grey slab above. Follow the flake crack veering right to the arete. Climb the crack, then go up left to a tree. Climb to the terrace. Walk left to left-facing, undercut corner 5 metres left of the last pitch of 'Tequila Sunrise' (which is "first possibilty left of the roof").

  5. 35m (-) Up grooves and past a distinctive sod.

FA: Greg Child, Chris Baxter (alt)., 1976

21 Trad 130m 5
71 Mug's Alley

Sustained and interesting climbing. If you have done Mixed Climb and are looking for something a bit harder to do on Rosea this well protected outing is recommended. The original top pitch is dirty and unpleasant, the finish as described is far better. Start about 13 metres right of Solitude. Initialled MA.

  1. 25m (14) Up to the RH of two weaknesses. Climb this and its R wall to the deep chimney groove. Up this steeply, then short wall to ledge.

  2. 26m (14) Continue up the groove, towards the top move slightly R to a ledge about 8 metres below the big overhang. Straight up short crack [or more easily up ramp to R] to the large ledge below the overhang

  3. 29m (Walk) Walk left to the very end of the ledge and a steep jam crack. (For the original finish walk L past a shallow L facing corner, to a second dirty L facing corner about 16m before the end of the ledge. Original P4 description. "Pull up over the starting overhang and move up and diagonally right until the groove crack is reached. Up this then carry on up the wall to the left of a scrubby gully until holds lead to the corner to the right. Easily on for 6m and belay. Scramble off" Looks awful)

  4. 33m (14) Up the jam crack for 8m, traverse 3m R on narrow ledge and up good crack (BD 4 and 5 useful) to R leading ramp, up this and easy ground above.

FA: Chris Davis, Ian Guild (var), 1966

14 Trad 110m 4
72 The Never-ending Story

Start: Start 3 metres right of Mug\'s Alley.

  1. 30m (17) Climb the line from beside huge eucalypt. Go direct over bulge at 18 metres and on to small stance 2 metres above a dead tree.

  2. 20m (16) Step right and climb twin cracks to very small stance where cracks peter out below a slab.

  3. -m (15) Straight up the seam above for 5 metres. Veer up right to right end of overhang. Up and step right to clean grey corner (as for P2 Tequila Sunrise). Up corner for 5 metres then veer up left, then straight up, to avoid loose blocks at top of corner, finishing on ledge below large ceiling.

  4. 33m (-) Walk left on ledge to below right-facing corner crack starting behind block on ledge 10 metres left of the left end of the overhang.

  5. 50m (14) Steeply up into corner-crack and up it to foot of steep little corner (this and wide crack above can be climbed at about 17). Take easier crack going diagonally right up right on easier ground.

FA: Chris Baxter, Stpehen Hamilton (alt)., 2008

17 Trad 130m 5
73 Tequila Sunrise

Start: Start about 10 metres right of Mug's Alley below a grey flake. First 2 pitches are quite good, 4th looks rounded and poorly protected. Best to finish as for Mugs Alley [walking L] or top 2 pitches of Goon Show [walking R].

  1. 42m (17) Up broken walls to the foot of the flake and follow it up right to a steep crack. Climb the crack to the second small stance. Nice sustained pitch after broken start.

  2. 25m (14) Climb the short wall above, up a couple of metres left then excellent grey corner to the big ledge below the roof.

  3. 25m (-) Walk left to the first possibility left of the roof.

  4. 35m (16+) Up a small corner just left of an arete then up arete on rounded holds. Up the groove above to bushy ledge. Step right and climb the chimney.

FA: Chris Baxter, Chris Dewhirst (var), 1976

17 Trad 130m 4
74 The Goon Show

The major corner line which looks pretty vegetated and awful. The upper pitches out R after the big ledge make an interesting alternate finish to other routes in the area. The original crux on P 3 is probably harder than the 11 it was originally graded. Start: Start 18 metres right of Mug's Alley below the major corner line.

  1. 27m (-) Distinctive triangular slab veering left after 6 metres into the scrubby chimney on the left. Up to a tree below a corner.

  2. 15m (-) Corner to ?peg anchor.

  3. 15m (Crux) Continue past an overhang (loose rock) to a large ledge with an overhang.

  4. 16m (-) Walk right until just past a large L facing corner.

  5. 18m (14) Up steeply to ledge at 6 metres. Go right along ledge for 7 metres to a thin crack. Up on holds right of the thin crack then left to a ledge below a right facing corner formed by a large detached block.

  6. 24m (14) Up the crack formed by the detached block and on up the line above.

FA: Mike Stone, Peter Jackson (alt), 23rd Oct

14 Trad 120m 6
75 Heaven and Hell

Good first pitch but the next four pitches are atrocious! The first ascent party suggests that an abseil anchor is neeeded at the top of the first pitch; the rest of us will wait for them to provide one.

Start: Start about 90 metres right of 'The Goon Show'. It is an attractive grey buttress with a prominent chimney-crack up is left side.

  1. 40m (15) Easily up left side of buttress for 8 metres to ledge with large tree at foot of difficult section. Up buttress on featured grey rock with one or two excursions to the left. At 30 metres go left to bypass a smooth slab then up and right to an alcove with a tree.

  2. 30m (-) Squeeze up behind the pinnacle on the right. Up the face above to a ledge on the right. Belay on right side of this ledge.

  3. 35m (-) Short hand-crack above the belay to scrubby ledge. Traverse left just above ledge for 9 metres until you can go up and right on slabby rock to gully.

  4. 30m (-) Up and right to left end of long ledge and foot of ugly corner. Avoid corner by traversing right on narrow ledge to terrace.

  5. 35m (-) Take easy line above or scramble off up right.

FA: Bob Bull, Chris Baxter (alt), 2008

15 Trad 170m 5
76 The Road to Damascus

Climbs the most significant buttress at the far right end of the cliff.

Start: Start 40 metres right of 'Heaven and Hell'.

  1. -m (15) Up thin crack/groove just right of toe of buttress to ledge. Now tricky 3 metre wall to second, and larger, ledge. Go to left end of ledge.

  2. 50m (15) Up steep weakness above left end of ledge until the angle relents. The line directly above is guarded by a refrigerator-sized block so avoid it by veering up and right on the slabby face to the foot of the next line on the right. Up this line to narrow ledge below bulge. Go 3 metres left to small stance below prominent crack.

  3. 35m (15) Up the line (avoiding a huge loose block which is on the right wall) to ledge. Finish up beautiful rippled wall. Get off by scrambling up right.

FA: Wayne Maher, Chris Baxter (alt)., 2008

15 Trad 85m 3

1.4.5. Summit Areas 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

This covers the cliffs encountered on the walking track after reaching the top of the Giant's Staircase. At this stage this includes the area known as Gate of The East Wind as well as the very summit. None of this has been checked as yet but, despite the great situation the climbing doesn't sound good. Location:

Approach:

These climbs can be approached by following the standard tourist track but it is assumed that the usual approach will be up the Giant's Staircase. Gate Of The East Wind is located 300-400m past the top of the Giant Stairway on the walking track. It is a deep, cool cleft. The track crosses the cleft over huge boulders with a metal hand rail. Access the cliff by walking right after the hand rail (away from the cliff) and into the gully. Summit Cliff : About 50 metres right (facing out) from the summit lookout is a southeast-facing grey wall about 30 metres high, distinguished by a couple of horizontal roof lines reminiscent of Bundaleer. Reach this by walking about 100 metres right (looking out) along the cliff top to a broad gully and abseil tree (?) from where a 25 metre abseil gains a broad vegetated terrace. Walk back left to the base of the wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Colonoscopy

"About attractive as...." First corner on the left (facing out as you walk down the gully), directly under the hand rail. Up the corner and through the hole. (Yes, that's right - through the hotel!) Glen Donohue, Nick Ping, James McIntosh, An¬drew Webb. 8.3.98

14 Trad 15m
2 Prince of Darkness

Start in the middle of the south face of the gully, opposite a small alcove formed by left and right facing corners. James McIntosh, Glen Donohue, Nick Ping, Andrew Webb. 8.3.98

20 Trad 20m
3 Natural Selection

Corner on the cliff out in the sunshine 5m left (facing the cliff) of chasm. Nick Ping, Glen Donohue, Andrew Webb, James McIntosh. 8.3.98

22 Trad 13m
4 Vote Of No Confidence

Climbs over loads of dangerous loose blocks in an attractive.

Start: At the line behind the big, detached block.

FA: John Stone, Eddy Rawlins, 1999

13 R Trad 35m
5 Vote Of Over Confidence

Top-roped only

Start: As for Vote of No Confidence

FA: TR Richard Evans, 1999

19 Trad 20m

1.5. Henham Track Area 62 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

1.5.1. Western Bloc 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
Access Issues:

All public access to this area is prohibited due to the rock-wallaby rehabilitation project

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 From a Ferret to a Fox 20 Trad 22m
2 Checkpoint Charlie 16 Trad 28m
3 * Uneasy Alliance 19 Trad 34m
4 * Mediocre Karaoke 24 Trad 40m
5 * Bonn 23 Trad 32m
6 * Dick-tator 24 Trad 30m
7 Disputed Territory 22 Trad 35m
8 * Common Border 20 Trad 40m
9 NATO 18 Trad 30m
10 NATO Direct 18 Trad 30m
11 Tank Tracks 17 Trad 30m
12 Mine 14 Trad 25m
13 Red Sky 15 Trad 25m
14 A Gathering of Dinosaurs 17 Trad 22m
15 Chase the Dragon 20 Trad 18m
16 The Flying Game 20 Trad 15m
17 * Writers Block 21 Trad 20m
18 Waiting for Mars 21 Trad 20m
19 (Unammed) 19 Trad 20m
20 Forgotten Years 22 Trad 15m
21 * Free Wllly 23 Trad 20m
22 * Cold War 20 Trad 20m
23 Sackcloth and Ashes 17 Trad 15m
24 * Double Chin 21 Trad 15m
25 Cassie 17 Trad 30m

1.5.2. Moora Rocks 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Charlotte's Web 15 Trad 18m
2 Family Affair 13 Trad 18m
3 Return to Waterholes Road 18 Trad 25m

1.5.3. Cirque Creek 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Shock Rock 21 Trad 23m
2 Dews and Dentils 16 Trad 20m
3 Ortis the Tortois 16 Trad 12m
4 Redundancy Package 14 Trad 16m
5 Doubtful Invitation 20 Trad 16m
6 Bum Steer 17 Trad 20m
7 * User Friendly 19 Trad 20m

1.5.4. Castle Creek 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Back Slider 13 Trad 15m
2 Young Ones Reign 14 Trad 20m
3 Stopping All Stations 18 Trad 20m
4 Immoral Majority 19 Trad 14m
5 Steggles Trad

1.5.5. Burkes Backyard 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Unorthodox 20 Trad 14m
2 Horizon Gazing 15 Trad 14m
3 Grrr 13 Trad 12m
4 You Can't Always Get What You Want 19 Trad 14m
5 * Fanx 18 Trad 14m
6 The Land of Nod 17 Trad 14m
7 A Nod's as Good as a Wink 18 Trad 14m

1.5.6. Bechervaise Rocks 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 It Started With a Kiss 18 Trad 16m
2 Humping in Cornwall 18 Trad 25m
3 It Ended With a Bang 19 Trad 15m
4 Pulling faces 20 Trad 18m
5 Slow Fuse 17 Trad 12m

1.5.7. Castle Creek Upper Cliff 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dancing at Lughnasa 13 Trad 20m
2 The Hot Sun 23 Trad 30m
3 Vesuvius 18 Trad 30m
4 Signs and Wonders 19 Trad 13m
5 Shaken, Not Stirred 18 Trad 13m
6 Smoke and Mirrors 15 Trad 30m
7 A Whole Generation Lost in Space 20 Trad 22m
8 A Crash Course for the Ravers 20 Trad 22m
9 Spice Girls 18 Trad 22m
10 Leave Me Alone 17 Trad 13m

1.6. Eastern Wall Cliffs 138 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.469057, -37.215630

Access Issues:

All public access to this area is prohibited due to the rock-wallaby rehabilitation project.

1.6.1. Tienanmen 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hsiao Ping 4 Trad 27m
2 Paper Tiger 6 Trad 30m
3 Suzume 14 Trad 30m
4 Banzai 9 Trad 30m
5 Lin Shao Chi 5 Trad 33m
6 Red Terror 9 Trad 33m
7 Lin Biao 6 Trad 30m

1.6.2. Kamchatka 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Medusa 13 Trad 23m
2 Rurik 11 Trad 39m
3 Tchirek 8 Trad 27m

1.6.3. The Peking Face 57 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.469454, -37.215256

Description:© (jgoding)

A classic cliff containing a good spread of quality routes in to the low 20's. More 'old fashioned' than many, expect a little loose rock and bring your hexes!

Approach:© (jgoding)

NOTE: this area is currently closed

There are two ways to access Peking face. For dedicated car bashers: Drive to 'Bundaleer' via the stony creek track. Keep going for another 4.4km or so until 200m past the Moora track junction where a campsite appears on the left.

For non-car bashers: From Boreong Campsite, head south along the Homestead road for 2km to the junction with the Rosea track. Follow the Rosea track for 5.5km to a nice secluded creekside campsite on the right. If you reach the Moora track junction you've gone a couple of hundred meters too far. This route still a bit rough and low slung cars may have issues on the creek crossings.

Locate the track on the west bank of the creek and up to the cliff to a point a few meters right of 'Ancient Warriors'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mah Jong 8 Trad 39m
2 Pol Pot 18 Trad 40m
3 Suzie Wong 4 Trad 36m
4 * The Kurdish Peasant Girl 17 Trad 15m
5 Kowloon Crack 15 Trad 30m
6 Kowloon Crack Variant Finish 20 Trad 15m
7 The Red Guard 12 Trad 45m
8 Chop Suey 6 Trad 33m
9 Dalai Lama 11 Trad 25m
10 Madame Chiang 14 Trad 24m
11 Nindja 13 Trad 24m
12 ** The Killing Fields

fun face climbing - a bit contrived. Well protected with small wires.

Start: begin around 7m right of left arete of main face (before it disintegrates and becomes the left descent gully).

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter, Tim Burke, 1990

17 Trad 25m
13 Shocking Asia 18 Trad 40m
14 Ho Chi Minh 13 Trad 45m
15 * Chou En Lai 12 Trad 48m
16 ** Broken China

great face climbing with adequate protection. May be worth 2 stars.

Start: 12m right of KF.

  1. 40m (21) Up weakness and right facing corner above. Left at roof and up wall, veering slightly right at first.

  2. 10m (-) up and right

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter (alt), Kelvin Longhurst, Ian Ravenscroft, 1989

21 R Trad 50m 2
17 *** Exotic Dishes

a fun face climb in a similar vein to 'Broken China' - good protection. Double ropes handy.

Start: wall just left of arete of 'Broken China' Buttress.

  1. 40m (19) Up and left below bulge at 30m. Continue up steep seem and over overhang at top.

  2. 10m (-) up and right

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter (alt), Ian Ravenscroft, 1989

19 Trad 50m 2
18 The Last Emperor 18 Trad 25m
19 ** Mao Tse Tung 22 M1 Aid 50m 2
20 * Chiang Kai Shek 14 Trad 50m
21 Honourable Exit 18 Trad 45m
22 Honourable Exit Direct 18 Trad 45m
23 Hu Flung Dung 7 Trad 45m
24 * Peking Man 17 Trad 52m
25 The Chink 10 Trad 65m
26 Mikado 13 Trad 62m
27 Yellow Peril 15 Trad 52m
28 * Confucius 13 Trad 52m
29 Dim Sim 8 Trad 46m
30 Lam Jack Chu 12 Trad 47m
31 Con Thien 13 Trad 42m
32 Fu Man Chu 13 Trad 44m
33 Chu Hsi 5 Trad 41m
34 You Likee? 6 Trad 54m
35 * Pagoda

one of the earlier routes at Peking face, with a goey crux moving out of the top of the corner.

  1. 21m (15) Climb up on to block on left and move up right in to attractive corner. Exciting moves up the corner then left.

  2. 27m (13) Up in to v-chimney.

FA: Jerry Grandage, Greg Lovejoy, 1968

15 Trad 48m 2
36 * Dynasty 18 Trad 21m
37 * Sampan 11 Trad 51m
38 Yangtse 10 Trad 37m
39 * Cultural Cringe 17 Trad 50m
40 Chop Chop Cheem Nee 4 Trad 44m
41 The Second Puff 14 Trad 45m
42 Khmer Rouge 18 Trad 45m
43 Moratorium 17 Trad 45m
44 Golden Bell 12 Trad 51m
45 Samurai 12 Trad 51m
46 Bushido 14 Trad 54m
47 Peking Tom 19 Trad 25m
48 Cave Man 22 Trad 18m
49 ** Ancient Warriors

A steep, varied and interesting climb. Good protection. Easily climbed in a single pitch.

Start: Slightly left of where the track reaches the cliff is a slightly overhung v crack.

  1. 15m (20) fun, albeit awkward & pumpy climbing leads to a small cave.

  2. 15m (20) crack to overhang above second break. Step right to terrace.

FA: Gary Wills, Dick Evans, 1984

20 Trad 30m 2
50 ** Ancient Warriors Direct 19 Trad 48m
51 Saki 3 Trad 42m
52 Cho Cheem Nee 4 Trad 45m
53 Saigon Misery 8 Trad 42m
54 *** The Adolf Hitler Memorial Buttress

a steep, exciting first pitch

Start: across the gully from 'Ancient Warriors' is a steep imposing buttress.

  1. 30m (22) from the middle of the buttress, climb up left past two ledges on the left arete. Exciting face climbing follows (RP's etc.) until it is possible to move right in to the main crack which is followed to a ledge.

  2. 12m (18) the crack through the middle of the buttress.

FA: Greg Child, Coral Bowman, Chris Peisker, 1978

22 R Trad 42m 2
55 Hari Kari 14 Trad 51m
56 Geisha 3 Trad 59m
57 (Unnamed) 20 Trad 15m

1.6.4. The Shanghai Face 17 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mandarin 11 Trad 51m
2 * The Inscrutable Smile 16 Trad 50m
3 * Hangchow 12 Trad 52m
4 * Shangri-La 14 Trad 54m
5 Chow Chin Chow 8 Trad 51m
6 Water Torture 16 Trad 44m
7 Kwai Fi 15 Trad 45m
8 Racial Prejudice 9 M5 Aid 48m 2
9 ** The Cultural Revolution 20 Trad 45m
10 The Cultural Revolution Variant Finish 20 Trad 36m
11 ** Frozen on the Edge of Time 20 Trad 54m
12 Marco Polo 15 Trad 44m
13 The White Australia Policy 11 Trad 39m
14 Kokoda Trail 11 Trad 45m
15 Chow Mein 9 Trad 45m
16 Ming Cocktail 9 Trad 44m
17 Steel Onion 12 Trad 40m

1.6.5. Burma Wall 42 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Little Red Riding Hood 14 Trad 22m
2 Short Soup 14 Trad 12m
3 Saffron Robe 17 Trad 39m
4 Chinese Checker 10 Trad 44m
5 Burma 10 Trad 45m
6 Hammer and Tong 19 Trad 45m
7 The Rising Sun 13 Trad 42m
8 Asian Invasion 18 Trad 45m
9 Wong Number 16 Trad 40m
10 Brahmaputra 13 Trad 39m
11 Rangoon 12 Trad 45m
12 Mandalay 11 Trad 48m
13 Orient 16 Trad 51m
14 Kandahar 6 Trad 48m
15 Bali 14 Trad 48m
16 Bali Variant Finish 15 Trad 23m
17 Kubla Khan 13 Trad 48m
18 Junk 5 Trad 43m
19 Junk Variant Finish 16 Trad 30m
20 ** The Food of the Gods 21 Trad 35m
21 Opium War 19 Trad 35m
22 * Ghengis Khan 14 Trad 36m
23 The People's Choice 12 Trad 38m
24 ** Shintaro 18 Trad 45m
25 Sweet and Sour Delicacy 17 Trad 40m
26 * Sweet and Sour Delicacy Variant Start 18 Trad 16m
27 Gud Phon 17 Trad 40m
28 Siddhartha 14 Trad 35m
29 Red Star 15 Trad 35m
30 The Khyber Pass 11 Trad 36m
31 * Mongoloid 20 Trad 30m
32 * Mongoloid Direct 20 Trad 25m
33 * Hiroshima 21 Trad 25m
34 Dragon Lady 18 Trad 25m
35 Asian Dreams 15 Trad 17m
36 The Ivory Coast 19 Trad 17m
37 Ladakh 16 Trad 17m
38 Zanskar 14 Trad 17m
39 Pork Buns 16 Trad 17m
40 Toros 16 Trad 15m
41 Yellow Fever 8 Trad 36m
42 * Futon 18 Trad 40m

1.6.6. Eastern Rocks 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 (Unnamed) 9 Trad 20m
2 Where the Boys Are 16 Trad 20m
3 Sterner Stuff 17 Trad 20m
4 * Roadshow 19 Trad 20m
5 Measure for Measure 18 Trad 20m
6 Slings and Arrows 16 Trad 20m
7 Fatwa 14 Trad 20m
8 The Road Less Travelled 17 Trad 20m
9 The Shining Path 15 Trad 20m
10 Road to Nowhere 15 Trad 18m
11 Offyapop 22 Trad 20m
12 Hobbo 18 Trad 20m

1.7. Castle Rock 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Access Issues:

All public access to this area is prohibited due to the rock-wallaby rehabilitation project

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Little Quince 19 Trad 45m
2 * Portcullis 18 Trad 45m
3 * Moat 13 Trad 45m
4 The Last Straw 12 Trad 70m
5 Chain Male 8 Trad 14m
6 Mylady 6 Trad 12m
7 Buxom Wench 17 Trad 34m
8 Days of Old 17 Trad 40m
9 * Mind Fragment 17 Trad 30m
10 Hathersage 15 Trad 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
3 Geisha Trad 59m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Saki Trad 42m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
4 Leftover Trad 24m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Hsiao Ping Trad 27m 1.6.1. Tienanmen
Cho Cheem Nee Trad 45m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Chop Chop Cheem Nee Trad 44m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Suzie Wong Trad 36m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
5 Abseil Crack Trad 19m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Bechervaise Route Trad 13m 1.3.4. Tower Hill
Lin Shao Chi Trad 33m 1.6.1. Tienanmen
Chu Hsi Trad 41m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Junk Trad 43m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
6 Terror Australis Variant Finish Trad 15m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Invictus Trad 12m 1.3.4. Tower Hill
Easter Hangover Trad 27m 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
Lin Biao Trad 30m 1.6.1. Tienanmen
Paper Tiger Trad 30m 1.6.1. Tienanmen
Chop Suey Trad 33m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
You Likee? Trad 54m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Kandahar Trad 48m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
Mylady Trad 12m 1.7. Castle Rock
7 Blarney Stone Trad 15m 1.2.1. Paddys Castle
Flying Low Trad 18m 1.3.4. Tower Hill
Itim Trad 19m 1.3.4. Tower Hill
Easter Wall Trad 39m 2 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
Hu Flung Dung Trad 45m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
8 Dungeon Trad 15m 1.2.1. Paddys Castle
New Front Ear Trad 18m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Pamular Trad 30m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Pollux Trad 27m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Jug Wall Trad 11m 1.3.4. Tower Hill
Miti Trad 13m 1.3.4. Tower Hill
Tourist Direct Variant Trad 63m 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
Tchirek Trad 27m 1.6.2. Kamchatka
Dim Sim Trad 46m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Mah Jong Trad 39m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Saigon Misery Trad 42m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Chow Chin Chow Trad 51m 1.6.4. The Shanghai Face
Yellow Fever Trad 36m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
Chain Male Trad 14m 1.7. Castle Rock
9 Gargoyle Trad 39m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
The Frog Direct Finish Trad 21m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Blood Crack Trad 8m 1.3.4. Tower Hill
Exam Crack Trad 14m 1.3.4. Tower Hill
Commando Climb Variant Finish Trad 33m 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
Tourist Buttress Arete Finish Trad 40m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
Banzai Trad 30m 1.6.1. Tienanmen
Red Terror Trad 33m 1.6.1. Tienanmen
Chow Mein Trad 45m 1.6.4. The Shanghai Face
Ming Cocktail Trad 44m 1.6.4. The Shanghai Face
(Unnamed) Trad 20m 1.6.6. Eastern Rocks
9 M5 Racial Prejudice Aid 48m 2 1.6.4. The Shanghai Face
9 R * Big Chimney Trad 100m 4 1.4.2. Left Side
Crock's Crawl Trad 120m 5 1.4.2. Left Side
10 IRA Trad 14m 1.2.1. Paddys Castle
To be Slim, To be Slim Trad 12m 1.2.1. Paddys Castle
Cop Out Trad 25m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
** Gerontian Variant Start Trad 15m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Slopesville, Arizona Trad 14m 1.3.4. Tower Hill
Spelio Pinnacle Trad 59m 3 1.4.2. Left Side
The Chink Trad 65m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Yangtse Trad 37m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Burma Trad 45m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
Chinese Checker Trad 44m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
10 R Silverband Trad 170m 7 1.4.2. Left Side
11 Gargoyles and Chicken Heads Trad 25m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
It's Another Boy Trad 20m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Spot On Variant Start Trad 15m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
The Gunk Trad 24m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
The Skunk Trad 27m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Pedestal Crack Trad 18m 1.3.4. Tower Hill
* Flypaper Wall Trad 130m 5 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
** Mixed Climb Trad 120m 5 1.4.4. Main Cliff
Rurik Trad 39m 1.6.2. Kamchatka
Dalai Lama Trad 25m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
* Sampan Trad 51m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Kokoda Trail Trad 45m 1.6.4. The Shanghai Face
Mandarin Trad 51m 1.6.4. The Shanghai Face
The White Australia Policy Trad 39m 1.6.4. The Shanghai Face
Mandalay Trad 48m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
The Khyber Pass Trad 36m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
11 M5 Whale Aid 25m 2 1.3.1. Bundaleer
11 R Tourist Direct Trad 150m 6 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
9 to 12 M4 * Melanoma Aid 110m 5 1.4.2. Left Side
12 Castor Trad 27m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Cocksure Trad 46m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Primular Trad 28m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
** Scarab Trad 62m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
** The Minch Trad 40m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
The Punk Trad 27m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Stand in Line Trad 13m 1.3.4. Tower Hill
Big Chimney Variant Finish Trad 30m 1.4.2. Left Side
Crock's Crawl Variant Trad 39m 1.4.2. Left Side
Saturday Special Trad 130m 6 1.4.2. Left Side
Tourist Direct Variant Finish Trad 36m 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
* Chou En Lai Trad 48m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Golden Bell Trad 51m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Lam Jack Chu Trad 47m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Samurai Trad 51m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
The Red Guard Trad 45m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
* Hangchow Trad 52m 1.6.4. The Shanghai Face
Steel Onion Trad 40m 1.6.4. The Shanghai Face
Rangoon Trad 45m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
The People's Choice Trad 38m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
The Last Straw Trad 70m 1.7. Castle Rock
13 Ghost Who Walks Trad 35m 1.1.3. Livingstone
Africa Rick Trad 28m 1.1.4. Cliff Richard
Uidhir Trad 15m 1.2.1. Paddys Castle
Aquarius Pitch Two Variant Trad 17m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Cleopatra Trad 55m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Cleopatra Direct Finish Trad 24m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
The Singular Raindrop Trad 29m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
They've Been at It Again Trad 22m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Aspidistra Trad 15m 1.3.4. Tower Hill
Tongue in Ya Ear Trad 13m 1.3.4. Tower Hill
Left in the Lurch Trad 14m 1.3.7. Western Wall
* Raw Prawn Trad 110m 3 1.4.2. Left Side
Family Affair Trad 18m 1.5.2. Moora Rocks
Back Slider Trad 15m 1.5.4. Castle Creek
Grrr Trad 12m 1.5.5. Burkes Backyard
Dancing at Lughnasa Trad 20m 1.5.7. Castle Creek Upper Cliff
Medusa Trad 23m 1.6.2. Kamchatka
Con Thien Trad 42m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
* Confucius Trad 52m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Fu Man Chu Trad 44m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Ho Chi Minh Trad 45m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Mikado Trad 62m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Nindja Trad 24m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Brahmaputra Trad 39m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
Kubla Khan Trad 48m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
The Rising Sun Trad 42m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
* Moat Trad 45m 1.7. Castle Rock
13 R Commando Climb Trad 74m 4 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
Vote Of No Confidence Trad 35m 1.4.5. Summit Areas
14 True Confessions Trad 25m 1.1.4. Cliff Richard
A Bit of Craic Trad 14m 1.2.1. Paddys Castle
Fredarnehaun Trad 14m 1.2.1. Paddys Castle
Abseil Arete Trad 30m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
American Pie Trad 39m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
* Basilisk Variant Trad 50m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Cleopatra Alternate Finish Trad 20m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Gerontian Direct Finish Trad 12m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Handicock Trad 52m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Infidel Trad 48m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Little Desert Trad 19m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Quandary Trad 51m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Girl Talk Trad 13m 1.3.4. Tower Hill
To the Manor Born Trad 25m 1.3.6. Equinox Walls
A Close Thing Trad 17m 1.3.7. Western Wall
Nipper Trad 20m 1.3.8. Stony Peak
Crock's Crawl Direct Start Trad 28m 1.4.2. Left Side
* Out On A Limb Mixed 20m, 2 1.4.2. Left Side
The Stinger Direct Finish Trad 22m 1.4.2. Left Side
* Showpiece Crack Trad 33m 3 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
*** Debutante Trad 120m 5 1.4.4. Main Cliff
Mixed Climb Variant Trad 30m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
Mug's Alley Trad 110m 4 1.4.4. Main Cliff
The Goon Show Trad 120m 6 1.4.4. Main Cliff
Tourist Buttress Variant 2 Trad 25m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
Colonoscopy Trad 15m 1.4.5. Summit Areas
Mine Trad 25m 1.5.1. Western Bloc
Redundancy Package Trad 16m 1.5.3. Cirque Creek
Young Ones Reign Trad 20m 1.5.4. Castle Creek
Suzume Trad 30m 1.6.1. Tienanmen
Bushido Trad 54m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
* Chiang Kai Shek Trad 50m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Hari Kari Trad 51m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Madame Chiang Trad 24m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
The Second Puff Trad 45m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
* Shangri-La Trad 54m 1.6.4. The Shanghai Face
Bali Trad 48m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
* Ghengis Khan Trad 36m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
Little Red Riding Hood Trad 22m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
Short Soup Trad 12m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
Siddhartha Trad 35m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
Zanskar Trad 17m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
Fatwa Trad 20m 1.6.6. Eastern Rocks
14 R * Doc's Chimney Trad 130m 5 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
Nyingtong Trad 130m 4 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
15 Stanley Trad 35m 1.1.3. Livingstone
Now You See Me, Now You Don't Trad 25m 1.1.4. Cliff Richard
Pillow Biter Trad 25m 1.1.5. The Prow
Pumpernickel Variant Start Trad 14m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Terror Australis Trad 39m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
The Minch Variant Start Trad 18m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Dihedral Dork Trad 16m 1.3.4. Tower Hill
Rolf Baldwin's Climb Trad 10m 1.3.4. Tower Hill
Boy Racer Trad 25m 1.3.6. Equinox Walls
Catching the Rainbow Trad 25m 1.3.6. Equinox Walls
Crescent Moon Trad 25m 1.3.6. Equinox Walls
The Fall of Jerusalem Trad 22m 1.3.6. Equinox Walls
A Distant Relation Trad 16m 1.3.7. Western Wall
Days of Wine and Roses Trad 16m 1.3.7. Western Wall
** Dinosaur Gully Trad 100m 4 1.4.2. Left Side
Dinosaur Gully Variant Finish Trad 30m 1.4.2. Left Side
Rameses Trad 130m 4 1.4.2. Left Side
Shadrach Trad 75m 4 1.4.2. Left Side
* The Stinger Trad 120m 4 1.4.2. Left Side
* Bernie's Open Book Trad 20m 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
* St Valentine's Day Massacre Trad 30m 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
Heaven and Hell Trad 170m 5 1.4.4. Main Cliff
* Speculation Direct Start Trad 24m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
Speculation Variant Trad 75m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
Speculation Variant Finish Trad 26m 2 1.4.4. Main Cliff
The Road to Damascus Trad 85m 3 1.4.4. Main Cliff
Tourist Buttress Variant 1 Trad 21m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
Red Sky Trad 25m 1.5.1. Western Bloc
Charlotte's Web Trad 18m 1.5.2. Moora Rocks
Horizon Gazing Trad 14m 1.5.5. Burkes Backyard
Smoke and Mirrors Trad 30m 1.5.7. Castle Creek Upper Cliff
Kowloon Crack Trad 30m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
* Pagoda Trad 48m 2 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Yellow Peril Trad 52m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Kwai Fi Trad 45m 1.6.4. The Shanghai Face
Marco Polo Trad 44m 1.6.4. The Shanghai Face
Asian Dreams Trad 17m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
Bali Variant Finish Trad 23m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
Red Star Trad 35m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
Road to Nowhere Trad 18m 1.6.6. Eastern Rocks
The Shining Path Trad 20m 1.6.6. Eastern Rocks
Hathersage Trad 20m 1.7. Castle Rock
15 M4 The Unkown Soldier Aid 33m 2 1.3.1. Bundaleer
15 R * Crocks Direct Mixed 97m 3, 4 1.4.2. Left Side
* Drone Bee Trad 60m 4 1.4.2. Left Side
* The White Cockade Variant Start Trad 42m 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
16 End of the Decade Trad 30m 1.1.5. The Prow
Irish Weetbix Trad 18m 1.2.1. Paddys Castle
Irish Weetbix Variant Start Trad 18m 1.2.1. Paddys Castle
Wee Bit of Blarney Trad 14m 1.2.1. Paddys Castle
(Unnamed) Trad 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Aramis Trad 20m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
* Basilisk Trad 65m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
*** Basilisk Direct Finish Trad 25m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
I'll Be Trad 18m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Melon Was Here Trad 40m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Noises in the Night Trad 20m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Pamular Variant Start Trad 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Spot On Trad 48m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
* The Frog Trad 45m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Itimized Trad 15m 1.3.4. Tower Hill
Sickling Trad 10m 1.3.4. Tower Hill
The Grope Trad 15m 1.3.4. Tower Hill
Remains to be Seen Trad 20m 1.3.5. Elephants Foot
* 586 BC Trad 25m 1.3.6. Equinox Walls
Cruise Control Trad 14m 1.3.7. Western Wall
Publish or Perish Trad 19m 1.3.7. Western Wall
Samakand Trad 15m 1.3.7. Western Wall
* The Illusion of Power Trad 16m 1.3.7. Western Wall
Abednego Trad 87m 3 1.4.2. Left Side
* Matador Trad 100m 5 1.4.2. Left Side
Pterodactyl Trad 30m 1.4.2. Left Side
Sloth Direct Finish Trad 28m 1.4.2. Left Side
The Decameron Trad 63m 1.4.2. Left Side
* The Seventh Lamb Trad 55m 2 1.4.2. Left Side
Toreador Trad 100m 4 1.4.2. Left Side
Vee Wee Trad 96m 3 1.4.2. Left Side
Pall Bearer Direct Finish Trad 25m 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
Shady Aid Direct Start Trad 40m 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
* Sweet Maggots Trad 120m 3 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
Debutante Direct Finish Trad 36m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
* Dust to Dust Trad 110m 5 1.4.4. Main Cliff
* Speculation Trad 140m 4 1.4.4. Main Cliff
* Tourist Buttress Variant Start Trad 51m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
Checkpoint Charlie Trad 28m 1.5.1. Western Bloc
Dews and Dentils Trad 20m 1.5.3. Cirque Creek
Ortis the Tortois Trad 12m 1.5.3. Cirque Creek
* The Inscrutable Smile Trad 50m 1.6.4. The Shanghai Face
Water Torture Trad 44m 1.6.4. The Shanghai Face
Junk Variant Finish Trad 30m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
Ladakh Trad 17m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
Orient Trad 51m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
Pork Buns Trad 17m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
Toros Trad 15m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
Wong Number Trad 40m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
Slings and Arrows Trad 20m 1.6.6. Eastern Rocks
Where the Boys Are Trad 20m 1.6.6. Eastern Rocks
16 M2 The Presciption Variant 1 Aid 110m 2 1.4.4. Main Cliff
16 R * Ma Cherie Trad 84m 3 1.4.2. Left Side
Shadrach Direct Start Trad 33m 1.4.2. Left Side
* The White Cockade Trad 77m 2 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
* Square Route Trad 40m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
** The Seventh Seal Trad 140m 7 1.4.4. Main Cliff
16 X The Crock Of Roland Trad 39m 1.4.2. Left Side
17 Career Jeopardy Trad 30m 1.1.2. Koori Country
Fossil Fuel Trad 38m 1.1.3. Livingstone
I Presume Trad 40m 1.1.3. Livingstone
Mrs Bender Trad 35m 1.1.3. Livingstone
** Grey Power Trad 30m 1.1.4. Cliff Richard
Family Business Trad 30m 1.1.5. The Prow
Flying Buttress Trad 45m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
** Gerontian Trad 46m 3 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Impromptu Trad 15m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Kerplunk Trad 22m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Martin Rattler Trad 44m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Murph Delivers the Goods Trad 20m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
* Narcotic Trad 30m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
** Odysseus Trad 84m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Porthos Trad 20m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Pumpernickel Trad 34m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
* Raindrops Keep Falling on my Head Trad 25m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Realm of Shades Trad 10m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
They Must've Done It Trad 20m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Condemned to Live Trad 16m 1.3.2. Bundaleer Lower Cliff
Genitalia Neurosis Trad 16m 1.3.4. Tower Hill
Ornamental Belay Trad 25m 1.3.6. Equinox Walls
Random Acts of Violence Trad 25m 1.3.6. Equinox Walls
A Close Thing Direct Finish Trad 5m 1.3.7. Western Wall
** Bubbles-Dinosaur Gully Direct Trad 90m 3 1.4.2. Left Side
Matador Variant Finish Trad 25m 1.4.2. Left Side
* Meshach Trad 81m 2 1.4.2. Left Side
St Vitus Dance Trad 87m 3 1.4.2. Left Side
** Bus Stop Trad 110m 4 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
Clutching at Straws Trad 75m 3 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
Jiggery Pokery Trad 120m 3 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
Martin Eden Variant Trad 20m 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
* Shady Aid Trad 120m 4 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
Diane Direct Finish Trad 23m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
*** Diane Direct-Heretic Trad 120m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
Fringe-dweller Variant Trad 16m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
*** Heretic Trad 120m 5 1.4.4. Main Cliff
Requiem Direct Finish Trad 55m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
Tequila Sunrise Trad 130m 4 1.4.4. Main Cliff
The Never-ending Story Trad 130m 5 1.4.4. Main Cliff
A Gathering of Dinosaurs Trad 22m 1.5.1. Western Bloc
Cassie Trad 30m 1.5.1. Western Bloc
Sackcloth and Ashes Trad 15m 1.5.1. Western Bloc
Tank Tracks Trad 30m 1.5.1. Western Bloc
Bum Steer Trad 20m 1.5.3. Cirque Creek
The Land of Nod Trad 14m 1.5.5. Burkes Backyard
Slow Fuse Trad 12m 1.5.6. Bechervaise Rocks
Leave Me Alone Trad 13m 1.5.7. Castle Creek Upper Cliff
* Cultural Cringe Trad 50m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Moratorium Trad 45m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
* Peking Man Trad 52m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
** The Killing Fields Trad 25m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
* The Kurdish Peasant Girl Trad 15m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Gud Phon Trad 40m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
Saffron Robe Trad 39m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
Sweet and Sour Delicacy Trad 40m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
Sterner Stuff Trad 20m 1.6.6. Eastern Rocks
The Road Less Travelled Trad 20m 1.6.6. Eastern Rocks
Buxom Wench Trad 34m 1.7. Castle Rock
Days of Old Trad 40m 1.7. Castle Rock
* Mind Fragment Trad 30m 1.7. Castle Rock
17 R Misspent Youth Trad 150m 5 1.4.2. Left Side
** The Sloth Trad 89m 3 1.4.2. Left Side
18 Jihad Trad 50m 1.1.1. Victory Wall
** Cargo Cult Trad 34m 1.1.3. Livingstone
Doing a Line Trad 14m 1.2.1. Paddys Castle
The Last Rights of Rory O'Meally Trad 10m 1.2.1. Paddys Castle
Annie's Mistake Trad 20m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Athos Trad 20m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Hygarfefoapp Trad 30m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Island Cruise Trad 30m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
* Moloch Trad 46m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Sunday Expose Trad 25m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Tiddler Trad 30m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Staphylococcus in My Boots Trad 35m 1.3.3. Calectasia Walls
* Equinox Trad 22m 1.3.6. Equinox Walls
* Dogs Outside the Eternal City Trad 15m 1.3.7. Western Wall
Sanity Break Trad 15m 1.3.7. Western Wall
Show and Tell Trad 16m 1.3.7. Western Wall
Swamp Harrier Trad 18m 1.3.7. Western Wall
Abednego Direct Trad 85m 4 1.4.2. Left Side
Big Boys Don't Cry Alternate Start Trad 15m 1.4.2. Left Side
Bushwalking With Gordon Trad 90m 2 1.4.2. Left Side
Curtain Call Variant Start Trad 22m 1.4.2. Left Side
* Gillian Trad 84m 3 1.4.2. Left Side
* Hypocrite Trad 14m 1.4.2. Left Side
Margarita Trad 23m 1.4.2. Left Side
* The Magellian Heart Trad 100m 4 1.4.2. Left Side
The One Night Stand Variant Trad 30m 1.4.2. Left Side
Blood On The Rocks Trad 90m 3 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
** John Barleycorn Trad 130m 3 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
Missing In Action Trad 85m 3 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
Mr Pye Trad 40m 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
* Pall Bearer Trad 130m 4 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
* Shibboleth Trad 130m 4 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
*** Diane Trad 130m 4 1.4.4. Main Cliff
* Diane Direct Start Trad 33m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
Jismhead Trad 42m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
RIP Corner Pitch 1 Trad 25m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
** Requiem Trad 120m 5 1.4.4. Main Cliff
NATO Trad 30m 1.5.1. Western Bloc
NATO Direct Trad 30m 1.5.1. Western Bloc
Return to Waterholes Road Trad 25m 1.5.2. Moora Rocks
Stopping All Stations Trad 20m 1.5.4. Castle Creek
A Nod's as Good as a Wink Trad 14m 1.5.5. Burkes Backyard
* Fanx Trad 14m 1.5.5. Burkes Backyard
Humping in Cornwall Trad 25m 1.5.6. Bechervaise Rocks
It Started With a Kiss Trad 16m 1.5.6. Bechervaise Rocks
Shaken, Not Stirred Trad 13m 1.5.7. Castle Creek Upper Cliff
Spice Girls Trad 22m 1.5.7. Castle Creek Upper Cliff
Vesuvius Trad 30m 1.5.7. Castle Creek Upper Cliff
* Dynasty Trad 21m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Honourable Exit Trad 45m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Honourable Exit Direct Trad 45m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Khmer Rouge Trad 45m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Pol Pot Trad 40m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Shocking Asia Trad 40m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
The Last Emperor Trad 25m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Asian Invasion Trad 45m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
Dragon Lady Trad 25m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
* Futon Trad 40m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
** Shintaro Trad 45m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
* Sweet and Sour Delicacy Variant Start Trad 16m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
Hobbo Trad 20m 1.6.6. Eastern Rocks
Measure for Measure Trad 20m 1.6.6. Eastern Rocks
* Portcullis Trad 45m 1.7. Castle Rock
18 R Fossil's Folly Trad 35m 1.4.1. North Cliff
* Renate Trad 90m 3 1.4.2. Left Side
Debutante Variant Trad 50m 2 1.4.4. Main Cliff
19 Storm Trooper Trad 14m 1.2.1. Paddys Castle
Addition Trad 20m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
* Born to be a Turkey Trad 20m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Crash Dive Trad 25m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Fertility Instinct Trad 30m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Kasolve Trad 48m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
* Ruined Castles Trad 49m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
The Price You Pay Trad 20m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Tour de Farce Trad 30m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Wall of the Wad Trad 30m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Spindrift Trad 21m 1.3.2. Bundaleer Lower Cliff
Black Tower Special Trad 15m 1.3.4. Tower Hill
Buttock Traveller Trad 10m 1.3.4. Tower Hill
* Chic to Chic Trad 15m 1.3.4. Tower Hill
Pocketed Trad 25m 1.3.6. Equinox Walls
Shingles Trad 20m 1.3.6. Equinox Walls
* Black Hunter Trad 14m 1.3.7. Western Wall
Misery Trad 12m 1.3.7. Western Wall
* The Kingdom of Nothingness Trad 16m 1.3.7. Western Wall
The Last Act Direct Finish Trad 25m 1.4.2. Left Side
The Last Act Variant Trad 25m 1.4.2. Left Side
* Travesty Trad 14m 1.4.2. Left Side
* A Bottle of Brut Trad 140m 4 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
* Abysmal Brute Trad 120m 4 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
Brainchild Trad 71m 2 1.4.4. Main Cliff
Diane Super Direct Trad 35m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
*** Hard Times Trad 150m 5 1.4.4. Main Cliff
** Hard Times Variant 2 Trad 22m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
* Knick Knack Trad 33m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
*** Requiem-The Last Rites Trad 130m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
*** The Last Rites Trad 130m 4 1.4.4. Main Cliff
* The Toff Trad 120m 5 1.4.4. Main Cliff
Work Fodder Trad 33m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
Vote Of Over Confidence Trad 20m 1.4.5. Summit Areas
(Unammed) Trad 20m 1.5.1. Western Bloc
* Uneasy Alliance Trad 34m 1.5.1. Western Bloc
* User Friendly Trad 20m 1.5.3. Cirque Creek
Immoral Majority Trad 14m 1.5.4. Castle Creek
You Can't Always Get What You Want Trad 14m 1.5.5. Burkes Backyard
It Ended With a Bang Trad 15m 1.5.6. Bechervaise Rocks
Signs and Wonders Trad 13m 1.5.7. Castle Creek Upper Cliff
** Ancient Warriors Direct Trad 48m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
*** Exotic Dishes Trad 50m 2 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Peking Tom Trad 25m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Hammer and Tong Trad 45m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
Opium War Trad 35m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
The Ivory Coast Trad 17m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
* Roadshow Trad 20m 1.6.6. Eastern Rocks
* Little Quince Trad 45m 1.7. Castle Rock
19 R *** Martin Eden Trad 110m 3 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
* Ralph the Snail Strikes Back Trad 95m 3 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
16 to 20 RIP Corner Trad 120m 4 1.4.4. Main Cliff
20 Crying Eyes Trad 27m 1.1.1. Victory Wall
Outreach Trad 35m 1.1.3. Livingstone
Ball Race Trad 30m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
* Blanketty Blank Trad 28m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
* Deckchairs Overboard Trad 40m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
* Jane Trad 27m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
* Live Action Trad 30m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Reneeobskolosk Trad 48m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Total Control Trad 23m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
** Wedding Cake Island Trad 1.3.1. Bundaleer
West End Live Trad 23m 1.3.2. Bundaleer Lower Cliff
Roma Trad 30m 1.3.3. Calectasia Walls
Ravenscrux Trad 12m 1.3.4. Tower Hill
* Ginger Trad 20m 1.3.5. Elephants Foot
Fencing the Fridge Trad 22m 1.3.6. Equinox Walls
Too Tripped to Trot Trad 30m 1.3.6. Equinox Walls
Little Wing Trad 14m 1.3.7. Western Wall
Bad Moon Rising Trad 150m 4 1.4.2. Left Side
** Burning Daylight Trad 140m 4 1.4.2. Left Side
* Cream Trad 90m 2 1.4.2. Left Side
* Cry Freedom Trad 25m 1.4.2. Left Side
Here Comes The Bride Trad 1.4.2. Left Side
** Call of the Wild Trad 130m 5 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
** Debutante Direct Start Trad 24m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
** Hard Times Direct Trad 110m 4 1.4.4. Main Cliff
* Hard Times Variant 1 Trad 50m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
Holocaust Trad 110m 3 1.4.4. Main Cliff
Prince of Darkness Trad 20m 1.4.5. Summit Areas
Chase the Dragon Trad 18m 1.5.1. Western Bloc
* Cold War Trad 20m 1.5.1. Western Bloc
* Common Border Trad 40m 1.5.1. Western Bloc
From a Ferret to a Fox Trad 22m 1.5.1. Western Bloc
The Flying Game Trad 15m 1.5.1. Western Bloc
Doubtful Invitation Trad 16m 1.5.3. Cirque Creek
Unorthodox Trad 14m 1.5.5. Burkes Backyard
Pulling faces Trad 18m 1.5.6. Bechervaise Rocks
A Crash Course for the Ravers Trad 22m 1.5.7. Castle Creek Upper Cliff
A Whole Generation Lost in Space Trad 22m 1.5.7. Castle Creek Upper Cliff
(Unnamed) Trad 15m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
** Ancient Warriors Trad 30m 2 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Kowloon Crack Variant Finish Trad 15m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
** Frozen on the Edge of Time Trad 54m 1.6.4. The Shanghai Face
** The Cultural Revolution Trad 45m 1.6.4. The Shanghai Face
The Cultural Revolution Variant Finish Trad 36m 1.6.4. The Shanghai Face
* Mongoloid Trad 30m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
* Mongoloid Direct Trad 25m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
20 M1 * Marionette Aid 24m 1.3.5. Elephants Foot
* Rise and Shine Aid 130m 2 1.4.2. Left Side
20 R * Warszawa Trad 110m 4 1.4.4. Main Cliff
20 X Death Wish Trad 22m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
21 * Clever Heather Trad 15m 1.2.1. Paddys Castle
*** Blimp Trad 39m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Bold Front Trad 20m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Don't Sneeze Trad 20m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Ferrets and Faggots Trad 30m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
** Flying Circus Trad 50m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
*** Pathos Trad 57m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Sympathy Trad 25m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Yerba is the Word Trad 25m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Heartland Trad 20m 1.3.6. Equinox Walls
Call of the Wild Variant Trad 23m 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
* Titus Trad 35m 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
* Desperado Trad 130m 5 1.4.4. Main Cliff
* Fear and Loathing Trad 110m 5 1.4.4. Main Cliff
*** Fringe-dweller Trad 130m 5 1.4.4. Main Cliff
* Scarface Trad 38m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
Solitude Trad 120m 5 1.4.4. Main Cliff
*** The Ascension Trad 120m 4 1.4.4. Main Cliff
*** The Ascension-Scarface Trad 100m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
* Double Chin Trad 15m 1.5.1. Western Bloc
Waiting for Mars Trad 20m 1.5.1. Western Bloc
* Writers Block Trad 20m 1.5.1. Western Bloc
Shock Rock Trad 23m 1.5.3. Cirque Creek
* Hiroshima Trad 25m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
** The Food of the Gods Trad 35m 1.6.5. Burma Wall
21 R * Big Boys Don't Cry Trad 90m 3 1.4.2. Left Side
* Curtain Call Mixed 140m 6, 3 1.4.2. Left Side
Dry Reach Trad 40m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
** Broken China Trad 50m 2 1.6.3. The Peking Face
22 ** Dagon's Temple Mixed 25m, 2 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Enter Sandman Sport 26m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Exit Sandman Trad 25m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
** Flying High Trad 15m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
* Lunging for Melons Sport 15m, 5 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Lust Trad 28m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
* Moloch Variant Trad 27m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
* Pyjamaland Trad 20m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
** Stone Ocean Trad 35m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Stryletzia Trad 15m 1.3.4. Tower Hill
* Memories of Provence Mixed 90m 3, 1 1.4.2. Left Side
* National Acrobat Trad 120m 5 1.4.2. Left Side
* Vosaxis Trad 130m 6 1.4.2. Left Side
* Ashes to Ashes Trad 110m 4 1.4.4. Main Cliff
** Crank Hard, Crank Fast Trad 25m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
* Cruising Trad 82m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
The Presciption Variant 2 Trad 50m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
** The Prescription Trad 110m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
*** The Toff Direct Trad 120m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
Natural Selection Trad 13m 1.4.5. Summit Areas
Disputed Territory Trad 35m 1.5.1. Western Bloc
Forgotten Years Trad 15m 1.5.1. Western Bloc
Cave Man Trad 18m 1.6.3. The Peking Face
Offyapop Trad 20m 1.6.6. Eastern Rocks
22 M1 ** Mao Tse Tung Aid 50m 2 1.6.3. The Peking Face
22 R * Miracles in My Pockets Mixed 85m 2, 1 1.4.2. Left Side
Nightmare Trad 90m 4 1.4.2. Left Side
Twitter and Bisted Trad 110m 2 1.4.2. Left Side
* Crank Hard, Crank Fast-Cruising Trad 82m 3 1.4.4. Main Cliff
*** The Adolf Hitler Memorial Buttress Trad 42m 2 1.6.3. The Peking Face
22 to 23 *** The Last Act Trad 100m 4 1.4.2. Left Side
23 * Dark Passage Trad 30m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
** Genesis Trad 57m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
*** Genesis-Stone Ocean Trad 70m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
* Morepox Trad 30m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
** Scarab Direct Trad 55m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
* Tough Tips Trad 25m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
* Unknown Trad 50m 2 1.3.1. Bundaleer
** The Edge of Reality Trad 100m 4 1.4.2. Left Side
* The One Night Stand Trad 110m 3 1.4.2. Left Side
** Fuschia Trad 35m 1.4.3. Giant's Staircase
* Fringe-dweller Direct Trad 18m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
*** Fringe-dweller – Skywalker Finish Trad 140m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
* Scarface Direct Trad 38m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
*** The Jesus Factor Trad 60m 2 1.4.4. Main Cliff
* The Loved One Trad 130m 4 1.4.4. Main Cliff
** Tourist Buttress Trad 120m 5 1.4.4. Main Cliff
*** Tourist Buttress-Scarface Trad 120m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
* Bonn Trad 32m 1.5.1. Western Bloc
* Free Wllly Trad 20m 1.5.1. Western Bloc
The Hot Sun Trad 30m 1.5.7. Castle Creek Upper Cliff
23 M0 * Royal Blues Aid 120m 2 1.4.2. Left Side
23 R ** Skywalker Trad 160m 6 1.4.4. Main Cliff
24 Blanketty Blank Direct Finish Trad 10m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
** Bliss Trad 20m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
* Front Line Trad 30m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
*** Genesis Direct Trad 50m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
* Lunging For Melons Extension Sport 25m, 8 1.3.1. Bundaleer
* Masters of Pox Trad 35m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Seamy Side Trad 35m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
* Sparrows Sport 15m, 6 1.3.1. Bundaleer
The Price You Pay Direct Trad 20m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
* We Don't Like Slopes Trad 48m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
** Bourgeois Blues Trad 130m 5 1.4.2. Left Side
** It'll End in Tears Trad 80m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
* Dick-tator Trad 30m 1.5.1. Western Bloc
* Mediocre Karaoke Trad 40m 1.5.1. Western Bloc
24 R ** It'll End in Tears-The Toff Direct Trad 120m 4 1.4.4. Main Cliff
25 * Berlin Wall Trad 20m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Blimp Left Wall Trad 26m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Fistful of Steel Trad 15m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
** Manic Depressive Sport 42m, 7 1.3.1. Bundaleer
** Ostler Trad 60m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
** The Cut Runs Deep Trad 20m 1.3.5. Elephants Foot
26 ** Dive Dive Dive Trad 30m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
* Gotham City Trad 20m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
** Skulthuggery Sport 15m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
* The Beckoning Trad 25m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
** Coronary Country Aid 100m 2 1.4.2. Left Side
** (Unnamed) Trad 15m 1.4.4. Main Cliff
** Angry Young Men Mixed 60m 3, 3 1.4.4. Main Cliff
27 ** Angular Perspective (to first chain) Sport 12m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Surfing With the Aliens Trad 20m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
28 ** Angular Perspective Sport 35m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
* Free-Snaking Thru' the Eighth Dimension Sport 10m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
** The Ogive Trad 36m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
*** Touchstone Pictures Sport 46m 2 1.3.1. Bundaleer
29 * The Castlereagh Line Sport 20m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
? Steggles Trad 1.5.4. Castle Creek
M3 Bash-hook Aid 18m 1.3.1. Bundaleer
Whalebait Aid 18m 1.3.1. Bundaleer