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Description

Big 100m wall tucked high in the back of the valley opposite 'Death March Wall'

© (jgoding)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
12 * The Good Soldier Trad 40m

Pleasant.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Peter Cunningham, Peter Watling, 1980

2

Climb the arete 2 metres right of the corner for 15 metres to a small overhang. Move right beneath this overhang for 3 metres then climb the wall to the top.

Start: Start just up the slope from "The Good Soldier".

FA: Peter Treby, Andrew Walker, 1982

3
14 R * Lighting Trad 30m

Nice climbing.

FA: Peter Watling, Peter Cunningham, Kieran Loughran, 1980

4
14 Roobarb Trad 25m

Steep but with big holds.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Kieran Loughran, Peter Watling, 1980

5
12 * Cataract Corner Trad 61m

The big corner on the right side of "Ripple Wall", some distance right of the other climbs.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Peter Watling (alt), 1987

6
14 R The Late Show Trad 64m

Unattractive and serious. Start a few metres right of "Sunset Groove" ata short flake-chimney just right of the boulder.

  1. 46m (14) Up the edge of the flake. Bridge back left to the bulging wall and up into the wide groove. When the groove divides, take the left-hand fork.

  2. 18m (-) Continue up the groove and then up the right side of the summit block.

FA: Peter Watling, Alan Hope, 1982

7
11 Sunset Groove Trad 70m

Climbing on unusual rock up the most prominent groove on "Ripple Wall", starting near a large boulder that almost blocks the ledge.

  1. 50m (11) Up the groove to belay behind the pinnacle.

  2. 20m (11) Up the arete.

FA: Peter Watling, Peter Cunningham (alt), 1980

8
14 Breach Of Promise Trad 140m

A sombre cleft.

Start: Start at the chimney-gully marking the right side of the "Maiden Ecstasy" wall.

  1. 35m (14) 'Gully' to a terrace.

  2. 20m (14) Move right a little then hand-traverse back left into the line and follow it to a ledge.

  3. 40m (14) The chimney to a resting place.

  4. 40m (-) Step right to the arete and go up.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, Dave Gairns, Gordon Talbett (alt), 1979

9
19 ** Maiden Ecstasy Trad 100m

Despite a name worthy of Baxter, this is a very good, sustained and atmospheric climb.

Start: Start at a boulder below a steep wall a metre or two right of "Dur Hardder Direct"

  1. 30m (18) Step off boulder and go straight up steep wall to an overhang near the left arete. Traverse 8 metres right then diagonally right to small stance.

  2. 25m (19) Step left and climb up leftwards through the overhang, heading for a massive bollard. From the bollard continue right up a corner.

  3. 20m (-) On up the corner for 5 metres then go up.

  4. 25m (-) Up

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran (var), 1978

10
22 * The Great Wall Trad 80m

Good climbing directly up the middle of the steep rock.

Start: Start 6 metres right of "Maiden Ecstasy".

  1. 30m (22) Up to an undercling at 5 metres, reach right and up groove until it joins "Maiden Ecstasy" and up to belay as for that climb.

  2. 50m (22) Go straight up. When it steepens, tend right through a series of overhangs. Then the headwall to the ridge. To descend either scramble down the ridge and abseil off a bollard or continue easily to the top.

FA: Steve Monks and Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, 1991

11
10 * Dur Hardder Direct Trad 120m

Enjoyable and quite exposed.

Start: Start a few metres right of "The Wayfarer" at a crack leading to an arete at 7 metres.

  1. 67m (10) Climb crack to arete and follow arete for 60 metres.

  2. 55m (10) Move right on the wall and go up.

FA: Peter Cunningham, John Van Der Leest (alt), 1978

12
8 The Wayfarer Trad 160m

Start: Start on the left wall of the big central chimney.

  1. 50m (8) Up the corner for a rope-length.

  2. 50m (8) Go left to the front of the buttress and up for another 50 metres.

  3. 30m (8) Climb the right arete to a big ledge.

  4. 30m (8) A chimney on the left leads through the overhang then up a smooth slab to more jugs.

FA: Peter Watling, Keith Egerton (alt), 1978

13
17 Billy Pilgrim Trad 40m

Exciting and a bit loose up the crack on the right-hand side of the crag just right and uphill from "Slaughterhouse 5"

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Heather Phillips. Easter, 1982

14
16 Slaughterhouse 5 Trad 35m

Intricate.

Start: Start 2 metres right of "Breakfast Of Champions". There may be the remains of a cairn.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Heather Phillips. Easter, 1982

15

Technical laybacking.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Heather Phillips. Esater, 1982

16
18 Player Piano Trad 30m

The left-hand crack system

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Egerton, Heather Phillips. Esater, 1982

17
7 Free And Easy Trad 110m

A rather irrelevant climb taking the centre of the smoothest part of the slab just right of the big corner. The bulges are avoided by diverging into the corner at those points.

FA: Peter Watling, Alan Hope, 1982

18
11 * Cricklewood Rainbow Trad 120m

A fun experience on an easy arete high on the hillside.

  1. 40m (11) Start at the very toe of the slab. The start is tricky then things ease to a large terrace.

  2. 46m (8) From the terrace continue up the left arete of the corner until just below the bulge that runs across the face.

  3. 30m (11) Climb the bulge via a crack on the left then step back right to the arete and continue to the top.

FA: Keith Egerton, Peter Watling, Kieran Loughran (alt), 1978

19
8 The Great Slab Trad 75m

Doddle city up the slab left of the big corner.

Climb the slab just left of "Cricklewood Rainbow" pitch 2 to the bulge. Step right and climb the wall 2 metres left of a crack and continue up a corner. Finish up a thin crack on the right wall.

FA: Peter Treby, Peter Watling (alt), 1978

Open trips

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