The Good Soldier

Pleasant.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Peter Cunningham, Peter Watling, 1980

Climb the arete 2 metres right of the corner for 15 metres to a small overhang. Move right beneath this overhang for 3 metres then climb the wall to the top.

Start: Start just up the slope from "The Good Soldier".

FA: Peter Treby, Andrew Walker, 1982

Lighting

Nice climbing.

FA: Peter Watling, Peter Cunningham, Kieran Loughran, 1980

Steep but with big holds.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Kieran Loughran, Peter Watling, 1980

Cataract Corner

The big corner on the right side of "Ripple Wall", some distance right of the other climbs.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Peter Watling (alt), 1987

Unattractive and serious. Start a few metres right of "Sunset Groove" ata short flake-chimney just right of the boulder.

1. 46m (14) Up the edge of the flake. Bridge back left to the bulging wall and up into the wide groove. When the groove divides, take the left-hand fork.

2. 18m (-) Continue up the groove and then up the right side of the summit block.

FA: Peter Watling, Alan Hope, 1982

Climbing on unusual rock up the most prominent groove on "Ripple Wall", starting near a large boulder that almost blocks the ledge.

1. 50m (11) Up the groove to belay behind the pinnacle.

2. 20m (11) Up the arete.

FA: Peter Watling, Peter Cunningham (alt), 1980

A sombre cleft.

Start: Start at the chimney-gully marking the right side of the "Maiden Ecstasy" wall.

1. 35m (14) 'Gully' to a terrace.

2. 20m (14) Move right a little then hand-traverse back left into the line and follow it to a ledge.

3. 40m (14) The chimney to a resting place.

4. 40m (-) Step right to the arete and go up.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, Dave Gairns, Gordon Talbett (alt), 1979

Maiden Ecstasy

Despite a name worthy of Baxter, this is a very good, sustained and atmospheric climb.

Start: Start at a boulder below a steep wall a metre or two right of "Dur Hardder Direct"

1. 30m (18) Step off boulder and go straight up steep wall to an overhang near the left arete. Traverse 8 metres right then diagonally right to small stance.

2. 25m (19) Step left and climb up leftwards through the overhang, heading for a massive bollard. From the bollard continue right up a corner.

3. 20m (-) On up the corner for 5 metres then go up.

4. 25m (-) Up

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran (var), 1978

The Great Wall

Good climbing directly up the middle of the steep rock.

Start: Start 6 metres right of "Maiden Ecstasy".

1. 30m (22) Up to an undercling at 5 metres, reach right and up groove until it joins "Maiden Ecstasy" and up to belay as for that climb.

2. 50m (22) Go straight up. When it steepens, tend right through a series of overhangs. Then the headwall to the ridge. To descend either scramble down the ridge and abseil off a bollard or continue easily to the top.

FA: Steve Monks and Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, 1991

Dur Hardder Direct

Enjoyable and quite exposed.

Start: Start a few metres right of "The Wayfarer" at a crack leading to an arete at 7 metres.

1. 67m (10) Climb crack to arete and follow arete for 60 metres.

2. 55m (10) Move right on the wall and go up.

FA: Peter Cunningham, John Van Der Leest (alt), 1978

Start: Start on the left wall of the big central chimney.

1. 50m (8) Up the corner for a rope-length.

2. 50m (8) Go left to the front of the buttress and up for another 50 metres.

3. 30m (8) Climb the right arete to a big ledge.

4. 30m (8) A chimney on the left leads through the overhang then up a smooth slab to more jugs.

FA: Peter Watling, Keith Egerton (alt), 1978

Exciting and a bit loose up the crack on the right-hand side of the crag just right and uphill from "Slaughterhouse 5"

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Heather Phillips. Easter, 1982

Intricate.

Start: Start 2 metres right of "Breakfast Of Champions". There may be the remains of a cairn.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Heather Phillips. Easter, 1982

Technical laybacking.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Heather Phillips. Esater, 1982

The left-hand crack system

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Egerton, Heather Phillips. Esater, 1982

A rather irrelevant climb taking the centre of the smoothest part of the slab just right of the big corner. The bulges are avoided by diverging into the corner at those points.

FA: Peter Watling, Alan Hope, 1982

Cricklewood Rainbow

A fun experience on an easy arete high on the hillside.

1. 40m (11) Start at the very toe of the slab. The start is tricky then things ease to a large terrace.

2. 46m (8) From the terrace continue up the left arete of the corner until just below the bulge that runs across the face.

3. 30m (11) Climb the bulge via a crack on the left then step back right to the arete and continue to the top.

FA: Keith Egerton, Peter Watling, Kieran Loughran (alt), 1978

Doddle city up the slab left of the big corner.

Climb the slab just left of "Cricklewood Rainbow" pitch 2 to the bulge. Step right and climb the wall 2 metres left of a crack and continue up a corner. Finish up a thin crack on the right wall.

FA: Peter Treby, Peter Watling (alt), 1978