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Big 100m wall tucked high in the back of the valley opposite 'Death March Wall'

© (jgoding)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.


Continue up No1 creek from Tortoise Wall. There is an obvious square cut overhang low on the cliff.

© (jgoding)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

The big corner on the right side of "Ripple Wall", some distance right of the other climbs.

Climb the big corner to a ledge. Take the crack in the right wall until it rejoins the corner and continue up.

FA: Peter Cunningham & Peter Watling (alt), 1987

Unattractive and serious. Start a few metres right of "Sunset Groove" ata short flake-chimney just right of the boulder.

  1. 46m (14) Up the edge of the flake. Bridge back left to the bulging wall and up into the wide groove. When the groove divides, take the left-hand fork.

  2. 18m (-) Continue up the groove and then up the right side of the summit block.

FA: Peter Watling & Alan Hope, 1982

Climbing on unusual rock up the most prominent groove on "Ripple Wall", starting near a large boulder that almost blocks the ledge.

  1. 50m (11) Up the groove to belay behind the pinnacle.

  2. 20m (11) Up the arete.

FA: Peter Watling & Peter Cunningham (alt), 1980

A sombre cleft.

Start: Start at the chimney-gully marking the right side of the "Maiden Ecstasy" wall.

  1. 35m (14) 'Gully' to a terrace.

  2. 20m (14) Move right a little then hand-traverse back left into the line and follow it to a ledge.

  3. 40m (14) The chimney to a resting place.

  4. 40m (-) Step right to the arete and go up.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, Dave Gairns & Gordon Talbett (alt), 1979

Despite a name worthy of Baxter, this is a very good, sustained and atmospheric climb.

Start: Start at a boulder below a steep wall a metre or two right of "Dur Hardder Direct"

  1. 30m (18) Step off boulder and go straight up steep wall to an overhang near the left arete. Traverse 8 metres right then diagonally right to small stance.

  2. 25m (19) Step left and climb up leftwards through the overhang, heading for a massive bollard. From the bollard continue right up a corner.

  3. 20m (-) On up the corner for 5 metres then go up.

  4. 25m (-) Up

FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran (var), 1978

Good climbing directly up the middle of the steep rock.

Start: Start 6 metres right of "Maiden Ecstasy".

  1. 30m (22) Up to an undercling at 5 metres, reach right and up groove until it joins "Maiden Ecstasy" and up to belay as for that climb.

  2. 50m (22) Go straight up. When it steepens, tend right through a series of overhangs. Then the headwall to the ridge. To descend either scramble down the ridge and abseil off a bollard or continue easily to the top.

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 1991

Enjoyable and quite exposed.

Start: Start a few metres right of "The Wayfarer" at a crack leading to an arete at 7 metres.

  1. 67m (10) Climb crack to arete and follow arete for 60 metres.

  2. 55m (10) Move right on the wall and go up.

FA: Peter Cunningham & John Van Der Leest (alt), 1978

Start: Start on the left wall of the big central chimney.

  1. 50m (8) Up the corner for a rope-length.

  2. 50m (8) Go left to the front of the buttress and up for another 50 metres.

  3. 30m (8) Climb the right arete to a big ledge.

  4. 30m (8) A chimney on the left leads through the overhang then up a smooth slab to more jugs.

FA: Peter Watling & Keith Egerton (alt), 1978


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