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Big 100m wall tucked high in the back of the valley opposite 'Death March Wall'

© (jgoding)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route
12 * The Good Soldier Trad 40m


FA: Kieran Loughran, Peter Cunningham & Peter Watling, 1980


Climb the arete 2 metres right of the corner for 15 metres to a small overhang. Move right beneath this overhang for 3 metres then climb the wall to the top.

Start: Start just up the slope from "The Good Soldier".

FA: Peter Treby & Andrew Walker, 1982

14 R * Lighting Trad 30m

Nice climbing.

FA: Peter Watling, Peter Cunningham & Kieran Loughran, 1980

14 Roobarb Trad 25m

Steep but with big holds.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Kieran Loughran & Peter Watling, 1980

12 * Cataract Corner Trad 61m

The big corner on the right side of "Ripple Wall", some distance right of the other climbs.

FA: Peter Cunningham & Peter Watling (alt), 1987

14 R The Late Show Trad 64m 2

Unattractive and serious. Start a few metres right of "Sunset Groove" ata short flake-chimney just right of the boulder.

  1. 46m (14) Up the edge of the flake. Bridge back left to the bulging wall and up into the wide groove. When the groove divides, take the left-hand fork.

  2. 18m (-) Continue up the groove and then up the right side of the summit block.

FA: Peter Watling & Alan Hope, 1982

11 Sunset Groove Trad 70m 2

Climbing on unusual rock up the most prominent groove on "Ripple Wall", starting near a large boulder that almost blocks the ledge.

  1. 50m (11) Up the groove to belay behind the pinnacle.

  2. 20m (11) Up the arete.

FA: Peter Watling & Peter Cunningham (alt), 1980

14 Breach Of Promise Trad 140m 4

A sombre cleft.

Start: Start at the chimney-gully marking the right side of the "Maiden Ecstasy" wall.

  1. 35m (14) 'Gully' to a terrace.

  2. 20m (14) Move right a little then hand-traverse back left into the line and follow it to a ledge.

  3. 40m (14) The chimney to a resting place.

  4. 40m (-) Step right to the arete and go up.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, Dave Gairns & Gordon Talbett (alt), 1979

19 ** Maiden Ecstasy Trad 100m 4

Despite a name worthy of Baxter, this is a very good, sustained and atmospheric climb.

Start: Start at a boulder below a steep wall a metre or two right of "Dur Hardder Direct"

  1. 30m (18) Step off boulder and go straight up steep wall to an overhang near the left arete. Traverse 8 metres right then diagonally right to small stance.

  2. 25m (19) Step left and climb up leftwards through the overhang, heading for a massive bollard. From the bollard continue right up a corner.

  3. 20m (-) On up the corner for 5 metres then go up.

  4. 25m (-) Up

FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran (var), 1978

22 * The Great Wall Trad 80m 2

Good climbing directly up the middle of the steep rock.

Start: Start 6 metres right of "Maiden Ecstasy".

  1. 30m (22) Up to an undercling at 5 metres, reach right and up groove until it joins "Maiden Ecstasy" and up to belay as for that climb.

  2. 50m (22) Go straight up. When it steepens, tend right through a series of overhangs. Then the headwall to the ridge. To descend either scramble down the ridge and abseil off a bollard or continue easily to the top.

FA: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 1991

10 * Dur Hardder Direct Trad 120m 2

Enjoyable and quite exposed.

Start: Start a few metres right of "The Wayfarer" at a crack leading to an arete at 7 metres.

  1. 67m (10) Climb crack to arete and follow arete for 60 metres.

  2. 55m (10) Move right on the wall and go up.

FA: Peter Cunningham & John Van Der Leest (alt), 1978

8 The Wayfarer Trad 160m 4

Start: Start on the left wall of the big central chimney.

  1. 50m (8) Up the corner for a rope-length.

  2. 50m (8) Go left to the front of the buttress and up for another 50 metres.

  3. 30m (8) Climb the right arete to a big ledge.

  4. 30m (8) A chimney on the left leads through the overhang then up a smooth slab to more jugs.

FA: Peter Watling & Keith Egerton (alt), 1978

17 Billy Pilgrim Trad 40m

Exciting and a bit loose up the crack on the right-hand side of the crag just right and uphill from "Slaughterhouse 5"

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran & Heather Phillips. Easter, 1982

16 Slaughterhouse 5 Trad 35m


Start: Start 2 metres right of "Breakfast Of Champions". There may be the remains of a cairn.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran & Heather Phillips. Easter, 1982


Technical laybacking.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran & Heather Phillips. Esater, 1982

18 Player Piano Trad 30m

The left-hand crack system

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Egerton & Heather Phillips. Esater, 1982

7 Free And Easy Trad 110m

A rather irrelevant climb taking the centre of the smoothest part of the slab just right of the big corner. The bulges are avoided by diverging into the corner at those points.

FA: Peter Watling & Alan Hope, 1982

11 * Cricklewood Rainbow Trad 120m 3

A fun experience on an easy arete high on the hillside.

  1. 40m (11) Start at the very toe of the slab. The start is tricky then things ease to a large terrace.

  2. 46m (8) From the terrace continue up the left arete of the corner until just below the bulge that runs across the face.

  3. 30m (11) Climb the bulge via a crack on the left then step back right to the arete and continue to the top.

FA: Keith Egerton, Peter Watling & Kieran Loughran (alt), 1978

8 The Great Slab Trad 75m

Doddle city up the slab left of the big corner.

Climb the slab just left of "Cricklewood Rainbow" pitch 2 to the bulge. Step right and climb the wall 2 metres left of a crack and continue up a corner. Finish up a thin crack on the right wall.

FA: Peter Treby & Peter Watling (alt), 1978


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