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Description

Crag X is a north-facing crag on the south side of Red Rock Creek with a distinctive orange wall streaked with black and white.

'Queensland' Cliff is located closer to the road but higher than Crag X and has two salient left-leaning diagonals.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Red Rock Area

Do NOT approach any of the crags in this area across the paddocks from Red Rock Road. The land has recently changed hands and the farmer does not want people crossing the property. Follow the tracks just outside the southern or northern boundaries of the farmland until able to move around the farmland to the area you are going. Please adhere to this to keep open the possibility of negotiated access.

Approach

Park 200 metres south of the bridge over Red Rock Creek on Red Rock Road. Crag X is the obvious cliff on the south side of the Red Rock Creek Valley. Cross the paddocks and head up the valley until you hit the creek and quite a good track courtesy of the recent bouldering developments.Between the creek and the rocky outcrops lie many boulders. The track passes many small cliffs (including Sweet Dude block with 2 short anchorless sport routes; the Rivendell boulders are below it near the creek) before ascending to the main cliff, passing Beard boulder (which has a mega looking highball on one arete and some more short sport routes on the other side). 20 minutes.

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

X Blox

2 great face climbs (with two easier aretes upon which to warm up) are the attraction here. When combined with some of the newer sport offerings on Crag X it makes for a good day out. A cruisy access also helps! From the far end of Crag X (Empire of the Sun cave with some good moderate sport routes off the ledge and some futuristic projects to the right) follow the cairned track down across the creek and a short distance up the other side of the valley, to arrive at the cliff after passing through a shady chasm. 25 minutes from the car, or 30 if you dawdle and wonder “if only” at all the huge blank orange walls on the way. It faces west so stays shaded until about 2.

1
12 Econo-babble Sport 18m, 4

Climb the left hand arête past 4 FH to anchors.

FA: Bill Begg, Alex Trnovsky & Brett Dodemaide, 2016

2
19 * Hard lovin Cowboys Sport 18m, 5

A shameless linkup. Climb past the first two bolts of Econo-babble, then step right onto the face and climb past three more bolts to the anchors.

FA: Andrew 'my love is hard' Clements & Alex Trnovsky, 2016

3
22 * *Unnamed* Sport 18m, 6

Sustained climbing on small holds up the thin seam leads to better holds with big moves to the ‘best hold in the Grampians’, followed by a delicate face to gain the jugs to the top. It looks slightly contrived to stay away from the arête but the nature of the climbing dictates your ethical purity.

FA: Alex Trnovsky, Brett Dodemaide & Ball Bagg, 2016

4
22 ** Old Cunts Are Gay Sport 18m, 6

According to a bunch of yobbos who directed this insightful social observation at poor old Bill whilst he was jogging through Flinders Uni one afternoon. Technical and sustained climbing up the middle of the face with a steep juggy finish.

FA: Alex Trnovsky, Bill Begg & Brett Dodemaide, 2016

5
17 * Tryroxine Sport 15m, 5

Follow the line of bolts just right of the arête to anchors

FA: Bilbo Beggins & Brett Dodemaide, 2016

Empire of the Sun

The big cave at the far left end of Crag X originally contained one trad route but has been recently modernised with lots of stainless.

6
23 ** Solar Flare Sport 18m, 6

Up and right after the 2nd bolt on the "ledge" traverse.

FA: Doug McConnell, 2015

7
28 ** Off the Grid Sport 35m, 12

Traverse the "ledge" to the final grey streak. Up this to rest in PNtT before a bouldery finale up and right on scoopy Taipan rock.

FA: Doug McConnell, 2016

8
25 *Ledge Traverse* Sport 25m, 7

The full ledge traverse finishing at the ledge between pitches of PNtT. Either finish up that route or bring second across and rap off single (massive) U bolt. Take mid sized cams to belay 0.5 to 2 inch.

FA: Doug McConnell & Kerrin Gale, 2015

9
22 ** Promise Not to Tell Trad 45m, 2

The improbable-looking left-leaning crack on the far left-hand side of Crag X, behind a huge free-standing pinnacle.

  1. 20m (19) Gain the muddy corner from the right and go up to recline on the ledge.

  2. 25m (22) Up the diagonal and then launch out over the sickening void on buckets. Double U bolt belay has been added to top.

FA: Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd (alt), 1989

Misty Wall

Follow the natural ramp up the right side of the Empire of the Sun cave. The three routes lie on the wall above, requiring a committing scramble up the short corner.

10
23 *** Misty Mixed 25m, 2

An exciting spacey route with great climbing. Start on the steep arete. An exposed traverse past RB leads to a run out and delicate face with natural gear. Climb past a 2nd RB to join Misty Variant, arrange gear and top out. A yellow and green alien are useful to protect the top shallow break.

FA: Benjamin Eichler, 2005

11
22 ** Misty [Variant] Mixed 30m, 1

Starting on the ledge, climb the right hand wall (on the detached block). Clip the RB on the main wall and make an exciting traverse left to gain the vertical seam. Arrange good wires and commit to a tough run out crux sequence. Place a green and yellow alien before reaching jugs as crack widens to the top. Rap from double bolts.

FA: Ben Eichler & B Abernethy

12
25 ** Alecto Mixed 28m, 3

A classic face climb. Start as for Misty Variant. From the first RB head straight up wall past a 2nd RB, some good natural gear (small to medium wires) and a 3rd RB which protects the crux. A powerful, run out crux sequence leads to jugs and good gear.

FA: B Abernethy

Main Wall

An impressive piece of rock that cannot be missed. Routes described left to right.

13
25 *** Labyrinths Mixed 50m, 2, 2

Start: Start at the left end of the main wall

  1. 12m (24) Boulder past bolt, then left into scoop and rest. Exit right and up and bely on ledge.

  2. 38m (25) Crux past bolt then sustained past fixed RP to horizontal break with big jugs. Diagonally right for 2 metres to finish up steep but easier crack.

FA: Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd (alt) & Parrish Robbins., 1989

14
26 ** Mysterious Journey Mixed 55m, 2, 1

The left arete of the huge block leaning against the cliff about 50 metres left of "Don't Count Your X Before They Hatch"

  1. 25m (26) Past pin and desperately past bolt then slightly easier to belay. Scramble to top of block. This appears to have been retrobolted - but before any Victorians go sharpen their bolt choppin rigs, rest easy in that it was done with sketchy looking eye bolts from back when bolts were born to rust...

  2. 30m (26) From the apex of the block, climb up into scoop, left to runners (#1 cam, big nut in a hole). Left and up flake, lurch right past bolt onto flakes, right and on to top.

FA: Steve Monks & Louise Shepherd, 1989

15

The only slab for miles.

Start: Start on a detached flake 8 metres left of an arete.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Jane Wilkinson, Steve Monks & Simon Mentz, 1989

17

Instead of exiting right at the top, launch out left along a superb hand traverse. There are two lines; one under the roof, and one two metres below, so who knows which one to take. They both look juggy albeit with a touch of loose rock and no pro, so make sure you're second isn't you...

FA: Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd & Keith Lockwood, 1989

18

The big corner at the far right-hand side of the cliff. An unheralded classic in the climb-a-line-to-the-top-of-the-cliff-adventure vein. To descend, first follow your nose up the fragile chicken heads to the top, walk back from the edge, and follow an easy gully to the right. Scramble up the easy ramp to the base of the corner to start.

  1. 25m (12) Mossy face into awesome orange cave, followed by a mossy chimney to belay on a mossy chockstone. Strangely enjoyable.

  2. 35m (18) The original description: delightful bridging up the corner on clean orange rock. The reality: awesome unlikely climbing to gain the corner proper, wish you had a dust mask past the poo cave, then brilliant orange rock to the top without a bridge in sight. Traverse off right when the corner blanks out.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Steve Monks (alt) & Keith Lockwood, 1989

19
10 Ramble On Trad 18m

Enjoyable, easy ramble. To get off - back climb down and right to step onto huge rock (which forms the right hand side of the aforementioned tunnel/cave). *Tricky Bouldering to get off this on the south side, or very exposed nth side (not recommended).

Start: Starts just right of "Counting Your X Before They Hatch", just left of small cave/tunnel at detached block leaning onto face.

FA: Joe Goding, Lawrie Cowley & Paul Tailien, 2005

Beard Boulder

A large freestanding boulder in the valley just below the main cliff.

21

An impossible looking line up the middle of the face past 3 ring bolts.

22
24 * Russian Roulette Sport 10m, 3

Vertical slabbing. Follow the thin line up a great closed seam past 3 RB to DBB.

FA: Brendon Abernethy, 2004

23
17 * Culture Shock Trad 10m

Obvious natural crack on the east face. Tricky, pumpy start to slabby top out.

FA: N Smith & Ben Eichler, 2005

24

Sit start on left of roof. Traverse left to right to finish on jug.

25

Under the roof of Pixie. Out and right via a sloper, then left via crimps on lip to slope, and match up to jug.

26
20 ** Pixie Sport 10m, 4

Start right of the arête on the north-east corner, climb up to RB an then traverse left to arête. Follow arête past 3 RB to tricky top out. Rap off (either dodgy dead tree or the DBB above Russian Roulette).

FA: 2004

27
V3 * Mosquito (S) Boulder
28
V5 * Dirty Sanchez (s) Boulder

Sit start for eye candy.

29
V3 * Eye Candy (s) Boulder

On the north face. The black wall and seam up and right.

Sweet Dude Block

Well before the main cliff, this orange scooped cliff appears immediately after the big smooth red wall. The routes are perfect for warming up, or even as a worthwhile destination for a quick easy-access session.

30
21 * Dude Mixed 12m, 3

Climb the left arête to chains. Can be climbed sport, or with an optional medium cam to eliminate the runout to the last bolt.

31

A much better way to sample Dude's start. From the 2nd RB head up and right past 3FH to chains.

FA: Alex Trnovsky & Bill Begg, 2016

32
21 ** Sweet Sport 12m, 4

Climb the right arête past 4 RB to no anchor. It's possible to traverse left to chains, or to climb diagonally left from the last RB to chains.

Small trad wall

A small trad wall with 4 short trad routes in the 19-22 range. When you reach the big blank red/orange wall, look left, and there it is. A little further towards the creek lies the Rivendell boulder with some amazing-looking hard problems upon it's overhangs.

33
13 Mixed Lollies Trad 30m
34
16 Mase Trad 20m
35
36
V4 *** Point Blank Boulder
37
V5 *** Shifty (s) Boulder
39
V4 Kang (s) Boulder
40
V5 Mini Mon Boulder
41
V4 * Mezzagade Boulder
42
V3 * Mary Poppins Boulder
44
V6 *** Nogan (s) Boulder

FA: Benjamin Eichler

45
V1 ** Black Jack Boulder
46
V1 Sumba Boulder
47
V3 ** Anti Freeze Boulder
48
V2 ** Honey Smacks Boulder
49
V3 *** Sub Zero Boulder
50
V1 ** Mr Grace Boulder
51
V0 Society Overload Boulder
52
V5 Ocean Linear Boulder
53
V2 ** Cadence Boulder
54
V1 * Grabbing at Stars Boulder
55
V6 *** Shaddowfax (s) Boulder
56
V6 Besiden Boulder
57
V11 Velour (s) Boulder
58
V2 ** Time Lord (s) Boulder
60
V3 ** The Tardis (S) Boulder
61
V3 Light Speed (s) Boulder
62
63
64
V2 * Night Sky (s0 Boulder
65
V2 * G-Force (s) Boulder
66
V2 Korendor Boulder
67
V8 *** Miggerra (s) Boulder

Located in Cave at right side of main wall. Sit start out R) to dyno from poor crimp to jug

FA: 2005

68
V7 ** Medossa (s) Boulder

Traverse L) out of Miggerra

69
V5 ** Snoop Boulder
70
V3 * MightyMouse (s) Boulder
72
V0 * Dryreach (s) Boulder
73
V6 Steam Machine (s) Boulder
74
V2 * Wound socket (s) Boulder
75
V3 AC Joint (s) Boulder
76
V1 Heavens Above Boulder 6m
77
V0 * My Mumma says (s) Boulder
78
V1 * Shopping Trolley Boulder
79
V2 Isle Number 6 (s) Boulder
80
81
V1 Price Check (s) Boulder
82
83
V4 * Jail Break (s) Boulder
84
V2 * Caterpualt (s) Boulder
85
V3 ** Bobet Boulder
86
V5 *** Ambers (s) Boulder
87
V3 *** Acid Jazz Boulder

Activity

Check out what is happening in Crag X.