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Description

Crag X is a north-facing crag on the south side of Red Rock Creek with a distinctive orange wall streaked with black and white.

'Queensland' Cliff is located closer to the road but higher than Crag X and has two salient left-leaning diagonals.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Red Rock Area

Do NOT approach any of the crags in this area across the paddocks from Red Rock Road. The land has recently changed hands and the farmer does not want people crossing the property. Follow the tracks just outside the southern or northern boundaries of the farmland until able to move around the farmland to the area you are going. Please adhere to this to keep open the possibility of negotiated access.

Approach

Park 200 metres south of the bridge over Red Rock Creek on Red Rock Road. Crag X is the obvious cliff on the south side of the Red Rock Creek Valley. Cross the paddocks and head up the valley until you hit the creek and quite a good track courtesy of the recent bouldering developments.Between the creek and the rocky outcrops lie many boulders. The track passes many small cliffs (including Sweet Dude block with 2 short anchorless sport routes; the Rivendell boulders are below it near the creek) before ascending to the main cliff, passing Beard boulder (which has a mega looking highball on one arete and some more short sport routes on the other side). 20 minutes.

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

X Blox

2 great face climbs (with two easier aretes upon which to warm up) are the attraction here. When combined with some of the newer sport offerings on Crag X it makes for a good day out. A cruisy access also helps! From the far end of Crag X (Empire of the Sun cave with some good moderate sport routes off the ledge and some futuristic projects to the right) follow the cairned track down across the creek and a short distance up the other side of the valley, to arrive at the cliff after passing through a shady chasm. 25 minutes from the car, or 30 if you dawdle and wonder “if only” at all the huge blank orange walls on the way. It faces west so stays shaded until about 2.

1
12 Econo-babble Sport 18m, 4

Climb the left hand arête past 4 FH to anchors (Stepping right at the 2nd bolt and finishing up the neighbouring route gives a nice 19ish variant).

FA: Bill Begg, Alex Trnovsky & Brett Dodemaide, 2016

2
22 * *Unnamed* Sport 18m, 6

Sustained climbing on small holds up the thin seam leads to better holds with big moves to the ‘best hold in the Grampians’, followed by a delicate face to gain the jugs to the top. It looks slightly contrived to stay away from the arête but the nature of the climbing dictates your ethical purity.

FA: Alex Trnovsky, Brett Dodemaide & Ball Bagg, 2016

3
22 ** Old Cunts Are Gay Sport 18m, 6

According to a bunch of yobbos who directed this insightful social observation at poor old Bill whilst he was jogging through Flinders Uni one afternoon. Technical and sustained climbing up the middle of the face with a steep juggy finish.

FA: Alex Trnovsky, Bill Begg & Brett Dodemaide, 2016

4
17 * Tryroxine Sport 15m, 5

Follow the line of bolts just right of the arête to anchors

FA: Bilbo Beggins & Brett Dodemaide, 2016

Empire of the Sun

The big cave at the far left end of Crag X originally contained one trad route but has been recently modernised with lots of stainless.

5
22 ** Promise Not to Tell Trad 45m 2

The improbable-looking left-leaning crack on the far left-hand side of Crag X, behind a huge free-standing pinnacle.

  1. 20m (19) Gain the muddy corner from the right and go up to recline on the ledge.

  2. 25m (22) Up the diagonal and then launch out over the sickening void on buckets.

FA: Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd (alt), 1989

Misty Wall

Follow the natural ramp up the right side of the Empire of the Sun cave. The three routes lie on the wall above, requiring a committing scramble up the short corner.

6
23 *** Misty Mixed 25m, 2

An exciting spacey route with great climbing. Start on the steep arete. An exposed traverse past RB leads to a run out and delicate face with natural gear. Climb past a 2nd RB to join Misty Variant, arrange gear and top out. A yellow and green alien are useful to protect the top shallow break.

FA: Benjamin Eichler, 2005

7
22 ** Misty [Variant] Mixed 30m, 1

Starting on the ledge, climb the right hand wall (on the detached block). Clip the RB on the main wall and make an exciting traverse left to gain the vertical seam. Arrange good wires and commit to a tough run out crux sequence. Place a green and yellow alien before reaching jugs as crack widens to the top. Rap from double bolts.

FA: Ben Eichler & B Abernethy

8
25 ** Alecto Mixed 28m, 3

A classic face climb. Start as for Misty Variant. From the first RB head straight up wall past a 2nd RB, some good natural gear (small to medium wires) and a 3rd RB which protects the crux. A powerful, run out crux sequence leads to jugs and good gear.

FA: B Abernethy

Main Wall

An impressive piece of rock that cannot be missed. Routes described left to right.

9
25 *** Labyrinths Mixed 50m 2, 2

Start: Start at the left end of the main wall

  1. 12m (24) Boulder past bolt, then left into scoop and rest. Exit right and up and bely on ledge.

  2. 38m (25) Crux past bolt then sustained past fixed RP to horizontal break with big jugs. Diagonally right for 2 metres to finish up steep but easier crack.

FA: Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd (alt) & Parrish Robbins., 1989

10
26 ** Mysterious Journey Mixed 55m 2, 1

The left arete of the huge block leaning against the cliff about 50 metres left of "Don't Count Your X Before They Hatch"

  1. 25m (26) Past pin and desperately past bolt then slightly easier to belay. Scramble to top of blcok.

  2. 30m (26) From the apex of the block, climb up into scoop, left to runners (#1 cam, big nut in a hole). Left and up flake, lurch right past bolt onto flakes, right and on to top.

FA: Steve Monks & Louise Shepherd, 1989

11

The only slab for miles.

Start: Start on a detached flake 8 metres left of an arete.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Jane Wilkinson, Steve Monks & Simon Mentz, 1989

13

Instead of exiting right at the top, launch out left along a superb hand traverse.

FA: Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd & Keith Lockwood, 1989

14

The big corner at the far right-hand side of the cliff. Scramble up the easy ramp to the base of the corner.

  1. 25m (-) Climb the mossy chimney to belay on a chockstone

  2. 35m (18) Delightful bridging up the corner on clean orange rock. Traverse off right when the corner blanks out.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Steve Monks (alt) & Keith Lockwood, 1989

15
10 Ramble On Trad 18m

Enjoyable, easy ramble. To get off - back climb down and right to step onto huge rock (which forms the right hand side of the aforementioned tunnel/cave). *Tricky Bouldering to get off this on the south side, or very exposed nth side (not recommended).

Start: Starts just right of "Counting Your X Before They Hatch", just left of small cave/tunnel at detached block leaning onto face.

FA: Joe Goding, Lawrie Cowley & Paul Tailien, 2005

Beard Boulder

A large freestanding boulder in the valley just below the main cliff.

17

An impossible looking line up the middle of the face past 3 ring bolts.

18
24 * Russian Roulette Sport 10m, 3

Vertical slabbing. Follow the thin line up a great closed seam past 3 RB to DBB.

FA: Brendon Abernethy, 2004

19
17 * Culture Shock Trad 10m

Obvious natural crack on the east face. Tricky, pumpy start to slabby top out.

FA: N Smith & Ben Eichler, 2005

20

Sit start on left of roof. Traverse left to right to finish on jug.

21

Under the roof of Pixie. Out and right via a sloper, then left via crimps on lip to slope, and match up to jug.

22
20 ** Pixie Sport 10m, 4

Start right of the arête on the north-east corner, climb up to RB an then traverse left to arête. Follow arête past 3 RB to tricky top out. Rap off (either dodgy dead tree or the DBB above Russian Roulette).

FA: 2004

23
V3 * Mosquito (S) Boulder
24
V5 * Dirty Sanchez (s) Boulder

Sit start for eye candy.

25
V3 * Eye Candy (s) Boulder

On the north face. The black wall and seam up and right.

Sweet Dude Block

Well before the main cliff, this orange scooped boulder appears immediately after the big smooth red wall. The twin aretes are the lines. A lack of anchors means you need to fuck about lowering off some bollards or a tree way back from the cliff edge.

26
21 * Dude Mixed 15m, 3

Climb the left arête past 3 RB and some small/medium wires to no anchor.

27
21 ** Sweet Sport 10m, 4

Climb the right arête past 4 RB to no anchor.

Small trad wall

A small trad wall with 4 short trad routes in the 19-22 range. When you reach the big blank red/orange wall, look left, and there it is. A little further towards the creek lies the Rivendell boulder with some amazing-looking hard problems upon it's overhangs.

28
13 Mixed Lollies Trad 30m
29
16 Mase Trad 20m
30
31
V4 *** Point Blank Boulder
32
V5 *** Shifty (s) Boulder
34
V4 Kang (s) Boulder
35
V5 Mini Mon Boulder
36
V4 * Mezzagade Boulder
37
V3 * Mary Poppins Boulder
39
V6 *** Nogan (s) Boulder

FA: Benjamin Eichler

40
V1 ** Black Jack Boulder
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V1 Sumba Boulder
42
V3 ** Anti Freeze Boulder
43
V2 ** Honey Smacks Boulder
44
V3 *** Sub Zero Boulder
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V1 ** Mr Grace Boulder
46
V0 Society Overload Boulder
47
V5 Ocean Linear Boulder
48
V2 ** Cadence Boulder
49
V1 * Grabbing at Stars Boulder
50
V6 *** Shaddowfax (s) Boulder
51
V6 Besiden Boulder
52
V11 Velour (s) Boulder
53
V2 ** Time Lord (s) Boulder
55
V3 ** The Tardis (S) Boulder
56
V3 Light Speed (s) Boulder
57
58
59
V2 * Night Sky (s0 Boulder
60
V2 * G-Force (s) Boulder
61
V2 Korendor Boulder
62
V8 *** Miggerra (s) Boulder

Located in Cave at right side of main wall. Sit start out R) to dyno from poor crimp to jug

FA: 2005

63
V7 ** Medossa (s) Boulder

Traverse L) out of Miggerra

64
V5 ** Snoop Boulder
65
V3 * MightyMouse (s) Boulder
67
V0 * Dryreach (s) Boulder
68
V6 Steam Machine (s) Boulder
69
V2 * Wound socket (s) Boulder
70
V3 AC Joint (s) Boulder
71
V1 Heavens Above Boulder 6m
72
V0 * My Mumma says (s) Boulder
73
V1 * Shopping Trolley Boulder
74
V2 Isle Number 6 (s) Boulder
75
76
V1 Price Check (s) Boulder
77
78
V4 * Jail Break (s) Boulder
79
V2 * Caterpualt (s) Boulder
80
V3 ** Bobet Boulder
81
V5 *** Ambers (s) Boulder
82
V3 *** Acid Jazz Boulder

Activity

Check out what is happening in Crag X.