Curiosity Crag Mostly trad climbing33 routes in crag
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Curiosity Crag is situated in a shady amphitheatre next to 'Slander Gully' with an excellent range of climbs, especially in the grades 18-25. The crag is very well sheltered from the sun and wind making climbing possible on the steeper south facing orange wall (Curiosity Wall) and on the overhanging sports routes (Tarzan Wall) in almost all weather conditions. 'Access' is very easy and while the atmosphere is relaxing, the climbing should get your pulse pumping.
The first routes recorded in the amphitheatre were 'Night Owl Theatre' (14!!), climbed by Peter Treby in 1985, and 'Deadly Earnest' (17) by Gary Lyons in 1993. Since 2003 over 25 new routes have been developed. The long routes up Curiosity Wall are reminiscent of the Blue Mountains, with some of the best sustained face climbing in the 'Grampians'. Most climbs are mixed routes – containing both bolts (stainless steel) and natural gear.
Until the guide is all transfered onto this website check out the pdf on Chockstone: http://www.chockstone.org/guide.htm© (jgara)
Access issues inherited from Victoria Range
The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.
Here's an update from Parks Victoria:
Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)
The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.
Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.
Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.
As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.
Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.
Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.
Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.
For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:
Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:
- Wonderland Range
- Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
- Mt William Range
- Victoria Point area
- Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
- Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
- Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
- Mt Arapiles
- Mt Talbot
- The Black Range
Please remember your climbing etiquette:
- Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
- Stick to tracks
- Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
- Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
- Be mindful of cleaning
- No chipping or bolting
- Avoid excessive chalk
- Take your rubbish home with you
Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park
Follow the Waterworks Track, which runs off the Glenelg River Road for 4.4km from the start; then take the steep, 4WD track sharply on the right for 100 meters; a double cairn marks the walking track on the left, heading uphill 200m to the crag. If the Waterworks Track is open, walking time is only a few minutes.
If the Waterworks Track is closed; park at the gated track 700m north of No.1 Creek on 'Harrop Track'. Walk up 600m to the Waterworks Track, turn left and follow it for 1.2km to the 4WD track, around 20-30 minutes walk.© (jgara)
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
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