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Description

Curiosity Crag is situated in a shady amphitheatre next to 'Slander Gully' with an excellent range of climbs, especially in the grades 18-25. The crag is very well sheltered from the sun and wind making climbing possible on the steeper south facing orange wall (Curiosity Wall) and on the overhanging sports routes (Tarzan Wall) in almost all weather conditions. 'Access' is very easy and while the atmosphere is relaxing, the climbing should get your pulse pumping.

The first routes recorded in the amphitheatre were 'Night Owl Theatre' (14!!), climbed by Peter Treby in 1985, and 'Deadly Earnest' (17) by Gary Lyons in 1993. Since 2003 over 25 new routes have been developed. The long routes up Curiosity Wall are reminiscent of the Blue Mountains, with some of the best sustained face climbing in the 'Grampians'. Most climbs are mixed routes – containing both bolts (stainless steel) and natural gear.

Until the guide is all transfered onto this website check out the pdf on Chockstone: http://www.chockstone.org/guide.htm

© (jgara)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

Follow the Waterworks Track, which runs off the Glenelg River Road for 4.4km from the start; then take the steep, 4WD track sharply on the right for 100 meters; a double cairn marks the walking track on the left, heading uphill 200m to the crag. If the Waterworks Track is open, walking time is only a few minutes.

If the Waterworks Track is closed; park at the gated track 700m north of No.1 Creek on 'Harrop Track'. Walk up 600m to the Waterworks Track, turn left and follow it for 1.2km to the 4WD track, around 20-30 minutes walk.

© (jgara)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start: At the nose at left end of left wall of grotto, where the descent track meets the wall.

FA: Rob Booth, Jill Gara & Ross Timms, 2003

Short with lack of protection, watch for loose hollow block at the start. Very ordinary.

Start In the middle of the second tor down from Bug Powder Dust. Climb past loose block up shallow unprotected crack.

FA: JIll Gara, Michael O'Reilly & Tuesday Phelan, 2003

Can be done in 2 pitches, belay from the large ledge at half way. May add another bolt.

Start on the left of the grey arete.

Follow 2 BR to ledge (possible belay). Straight up past another bolt for 6m then step right to finish up juggy arête. Anchors to descend to the right on top of The Extension Lead or walk off back.

FA: Jill Gara, Michael O'Reilly & Robin Holmes, 2003

Start: 6 meters right of 'Bug Powder Dust'.

Three bolts to ledge and DDB.

FA: Rob Booth Steve Chapman, 2003

A bouldery link-up of The Generator Route * 22 and The Extension Lead * 18. Climb The Generator Route and continue straight up the orange bulge past 2 FHs to join The Extension Lead at its (now) second FH on the arête. 8 FHs in total.

FA: Michael O’Reilly & Steve Chapman, 2015

Start: Just right of 'The Generator Route'.

Up past 3 FH's and wires to horizontal break. Arrange gear then right up to 4th FH. Thin moves over bulge brings some relief and good pro in seam. More hard moves over small roof to buckets. Traverse left to belay.

FA: Steve Chapman & Steven Wilson, 2003

This mini link-up route is now a sports route Start as for Screaming Trees. First part of Screaming Trees, past 3 FH to horizontal break, traverse left clipping first FH of The Alternator to the anchors on The Generator Route.

The next 3 climbs start at the ledge at half height of Bug Powder Dust.There are belay anchors on the ledge on top of The Generator and access is from the descent track. There are belay anchors on top of The Extension Lead.

Exposure plus, and linked with The Generator Routes this makes an awesome long pitch. Start at halfway ledge two meters right of Bug Powder Dust. Follow the 4FHs up the arête, moving to the right-hand side at the 3rd FH. (25m rap)

FA: Rob Booth & Ross Timms

Variant finish to Bug Powder Dust. Start as for 2nd pitch of Bug Powder Dust.

Climb the left side of the pale central streak directly through top bulge. Swing right to top out. Blackness courtesy of the previous week’s Vicparks “controlled burn”.

FA: W Monks, N Cotton, C Barrett, M O'Reilly & M O'Reilly, 2003

Straight up block on rounded jugs left of the arete. Tricky move at the end to gain ledge. Easily accessed from the descent gully.

Start: 5m left of the bolt on 'Bug Powder Dust' ledge.

FA: Tuesday Phelan & Jill Gara, 2003

The original route on the cliff."Hal Todd would be proud of this. The Del Monte of climbing." (Edited version of original description)

Start: At the line that splits the wall.

Climb crack, at the overhang, traverse right and finish up the right hand crack. Some loose rock. Take twin ropes or long slings, could be done in 2 pitches, with a belay at the end of the traverse.

FA: Peter Treby, Andrew Webb & Neil Barr., 1985

A scary girdle traverse on friable rock.

Start: At sandy cleft right of 'Night Owl Theatre'.

  1. 10m (17) Up sandy cleft with no runnners.

  2. 25m (17) Crux, step across left, around arete, gingerly down and continue left to the welcome ledge.

FA: Gary Lyons, Gordon Bedford & Nick Tapp, 1993

Sustained face climbing Start 5 meters right of Night Owl Theatre.

Directly up the wall past 6FHs. Medium wires and cams protect the shallow grey corner heading right to last FH. Launch up left on jugs.

FA: Steve Chapman & Robin Holmes, 2003

A clever link up that takes in the best parts of two great routes. Endurance climbing on great rock.

Start as for Careful With That Axe Liam.

A single rope will suffice if you take a few 60cm draws. Climb to the 4th FH, then traverse right 5m past FH to join Curiosity. Continue up past 2 more FHs to break. Back left for 2m then finish up past 3FHs as for Curiosity.

FA: Michael O’Reilly & Steve Chapman

Sustained varied moves on excellent rock.

Start: 5m right of Careful With That Axe, Liam.

The crux can be solved left or right of the 2nd FH. Past 3 more FHs to horizontal break. Move left 2m and over grey bulge past another 3 FHs to final overhang and the happy jugs.

FA: Steve Chapman & Brian Gray, 2003

Backs off a little on arete, but keeps you working till the end.

Start 8m right of Curiosity Killed The Black Feral Cat on the black streak.

Up to 2nd FH taking heed of the flexible block on the left. Head left then back right above 2nd FH to gain a rest in the grey corner. Swing around right of the arête to FH and up to the long blunt grey arête above. Climbing is often just left of the arête with adequate gear on the arête proper.

FA: Steve Chapman & Jill Gara, 2006

Absorbing climbing directly up the arête to the highest point on the buttress. Double up on small wires, a few small cams are handy, despite appearances protection is good.

Starts in the chasm 15m right of Curiosity Killed The Black Feral Cat

Up the steep fracture for 8m and finger traverse leftwards 3m to rest on the grey arête (belay possible to eliminate drag). Then directly up the grey arete.

FA: Steve Chapman, Michael O'Reilly & Jill Gara, 2003

Follow Lynx Effect for 8m to where it traverses left. Arrange gear and launch straight up on crimps. Watch your back on the wall behind if you fall.

Continue directly up grey wall.

Start: Start as for Lynx Effect.

FA: Steve Chapman & Robin Holmes, 2003

Stretch Your calves before you start.

Start: Starts 5m right of 'Cat Scratch Fever' at end of chasm.

Bridge up using crack for protection and traverse right at the top of the big chockstone.

FA: Steve Chapman & Robin Holmes, 2003

Back wall of the grotto

Novelty climbing through overhang, lack of protection at start.

Start: Runs up centre of the wall at the top of the grotto through the orange overhang.

Up edges on slab to stance below overhang, veer left then up to anchor.

FA: Rob Booth & Jill Gara, 2003

Follow line of rings.

Start: Right of 'Separation Anxiety'.

FA: Brendon & Chris Abernethy, 2004

An entrant for the worst of the worst... Crappy line, dodgy rock, ground fall potential, its all here.

Start: Left of corner on the track before Paler Shade of White just past the big log.

  1. 17m (22) Unprotected hardish moves on dodgy holds lead to jugs at overhang where the gear is not good and the moss begins. Continue to belay at big ledge. Smell the roses.

  2. 8m (19) Continue up left side of orange wall via a most awkward slopey mantle off the deck.

FA: Steve Chapman & Jill Gara (alternative leads), 2004

Bold climbing leftwards along the rising traverse. Double ropes are useful.

At weakness 6m left of Traditional Arrangement.

Climb leftward along rising traverse. A small wire can be found, low down, two thirds along the traverse. Continue up the easy arête to finish at the large ledge. Climb off around to the left or right to Moonlight Wall.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Jill Gara & Robin Holmes, 2003

Harder than it looks.

Start: At the right leaning hand/fist crack in middle of the wall at ground level.

Follow the crack to the large ledge at half height. From here you can access the next 4 climbs.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Jill Gara & Robin Holmes, 2003

The following routes start on the ledge at half height. They can be reached by climbing Traditional Arrangement or the start of Tarzan’s Swing. Rap anchors on top of Gerni To The Centre Of The Earth.

Will clean up with traffic.

Starts on the ledge at FH 2m left of 'Controlled Burn'.

Up to shallow corner to rap anchor.

FA: Steve Chapman & Rob Booth, 2006

Climb left past bolt then right to gear placement. Committing climbing to top on slopey bulges. Take small cams and wires.

Start: Starts below the bolt in the middle of the face.

FA: Robin Holmes & Steve Chapman, 2003

Climb directly up the wall, to the left end of the small ledge at half height. Follow the short corner/flake and exciting wall above.

Start: Starts approx. 2 to 3m right of bolt on 'Controlled Burn' and 4m left of the right arête.

FA: Michael O'Reilly & Jill Gara, 2003

Climb upwards diagonally right to the right end of the small ledge at half height. Follow the horizontal breaks to the small overlap/rooflet near the right arête. Committing moves directly up the wall above (crux).

Start: Starts as for 'Moonlight Mile'

FA: Michael O'Reilly & Jill Gara, 2003

Overhanging fun jug fest.

Starts below bolt 3m right of arête.

Follow grey wall and arête past ring bolts to lower off.

FA: Robin Holmes & Steve Chapman, 2003

If you still have some juice left at the end of Tarzans Swing, clip the anchor with a long sling and monkey right past a FH on unlikely jugs to the final moves and then anchor of Densei

Right side of scoops, 6 RB's to DRB lower off.

Start: 4m right of Tarzan's Swing.

FA: Ramon Francis, Philip Bogenschütz & Brendon Abernethy, 2003

FA: Ramon Francis, 2003

Up left side of scoops. 5 RB's to DRB lower off.

Start: 15m R of 'Tarzan' Swing.

FA: Brendon Abernethy, 2003

Right of Tarzan Wall is south-facing orange wall. The horizontal break is taken by Grease Nipples (from left and Work The Meat (from the right).

Good traverse leads to great final crack.

Start: Start under the huge block that leans against the left edge of the wall, 15-20 metres right of

  1. 10m (9) Climb up through a hole to the top of the block and then up to terrace.

  2. 15m (19) Traverse right along the brek to the vertical line and up a couple of moves to a hanging belay.

  3. 10m (20) Crack to top.

FA: FA: Louise Shepherd, Nyrie Dodd did the finish as part of Work The Meat. Complete ascent : Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman. Easter, 1988

? was this the working name for Tarzan's Swing?

Trench climbing par excellence.

Start: Start at the right-hand side of the major horizontal break that "Grease Nipples" traverse from the left..

FA: Louise Shepherd & Nyrie Dodd, 1985

Slightly upstream and downhill from Work The Meat is a square-cut grey wall with a prominent orange gash on its right.

Up wall, steeply at first then easily to a ledge at 8 metres. Step left and continue up the steep wall.

Start: Start at foot of knobbly wall on right of scungy corner.

FA: Greg Aimer & Christina Freestone, 1993

Climb up to ledge at 8 metres then move 3 metres right and climb crack-line running between left chimney and right arete.

Start: Start as for 'Fillet De Boeuf'

FA: Greg Aimer & Christina Freestone, 1993

Marginal pro.

Start: Start on grey wall 25 metres right of 'Petit Dejeuner'

FA: Greg Aimer & Christina Freestone, 1993

Activity

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