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Description

Curiosity Crag is situated in a shady amphitheatre next to 'Slander Gully' with an excellent range of climbs, especially in the grades 18-25. The crag is very well sheltered from the sun and wind making climbing possible on the steeper south facing orange wall (Curiosity Wall) and on the overhanging sports routes (Tarzan Wall) in almost all weather conditions. 'Access' is very easy and while the atmosphere is relaxing, the climbing should get your pulse pumping.

The first routes recorded in the amphitheatre were 'Night Owl Theatre' (14!!), climbed by Peter Treby in 1985, and 'Deadly Earnest' (17) by Gary Lyons in 1993. Since 2003 over 25 new routes have been developed. The long routes up Curiosity Wall are reminiscent of the Blue Mountains, with some of the best sustained face climbing in the 'Grampians'. Most climbs are mixed routes – containing both bolts (stainless steel) and natural gear.

Until the guide is all transfered onto this website check out the pdf on Chockstone: http://www.chockstone.org/guide.htm

© (jgara)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Approach

Follow the Waterworks Track, which runs off the Glenelg River Road for 4.4km from the start; then take the steep, 4WD track sharply on the right for 100 meters; a double cairn marks the walking track on the left, heading uphill 200m to the crag. If the Waterworks Track is open, walking time is only a few minutes.

If the Waterworks Track is closed; park at the gated track 700m north of No.1 Creek on 'Harrop Track'. Walk up 600m to the Waterworks Track, turn left and follow it for 1.2km to the 4WD track, around 20-30 minutes walk.

© (jgara)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
18 R Big Nose Trad 12m

Start: At the nose at left end of left wall of grotto, where the descent track meets the wall.

FA: Rob Booth, Jill Gara, Ross Timms, 2003

2
17 R Sticky Beak Trad 12m

Short with lack of protection, watch for loose hollow block at the start. Very ordinary.

Start: In the middle of the second tor down from 'Bug Powder Dust'.

FA: JIll Gara, Michael O'Reilly, Tuesday Phelan, 2003

3
16 Bird's Nest Soup Trad 10m

Straight up block on rounded jugs left of the arete. Tricky move at the end to gain ledge. Easily accessed from the descent gully.

Start: 5m left of the bolt on 'Bug Powder Dust' ledge.

FA: Tuesday Phelan, Jill Gara, 2003

4

Variant finish to 'Bug Powder Dust'.

Start: As for 2nd pitch of 'Bug Powder Dust'.

FA: W Monks, N Cotton, C Barrett, M O'Reilly , 2003

5
18 * The Extension Lead Sport 15m

Exposure plus, and linked with The Generator Routes this makes an awesome long pitch.

Start: At halfway ledge two meters right of Bug Powder

FA: Rob Booth, Ross Timms

6
18 Bug Powder Dust Trad 27m

Can be done in 2 pitches, belay from the large ledge at half way. May add another bolt.

Start: On the left of the grey arete.

FA: Jill Gara, Michael O'Reilly, Robin Holmes, 2003

7
22 The Generator Route Sport 12m

Three bolts to ledge and DDB.

Start: 6 meters right of 'Bug Powder Dust'.

FA: Rob Booth Steve Chapman

9
26 ** Screaming Trees Trad 25m

Up past 2 FH's and wires to horizontal break. Arrange gear then right up to 3rd FH. Thin moves over bulge brings some relief and good pro in seam. More hard moves over small roof to buckets. Traverse left to belay.

Start: Just right of 'The Generator Route'.

FA: Steve Chapman, Steven Wilson, 2003

10
18 ** Night Owl Theatre Trad 30m

The original route on the cliff."Hal Todd would be proud of this. The Del Monte of climbing." (Edited version of original description)

Start: At the line that splits the wall.

FA: Peter Treby, Andrew Webb, Neil Barr., 1985

11
17 R Deadly Earnest Trad 35m

A scary girdle traverse on friable rock.

Start: At sandy cleft right of 'Night Owl Theatre'.

  1. 10m (17) Up sandy cleft with no runnners.

  2. 25m (17) Crux, step across left, around arete, gingerly down and continue left to the welcome ledge.

FA: Gary Lyons, Gordon Bedford, Nick Tapp, 1993

12

Sustained face climbing

Start: 5 meters right of 'Night Owl Theatre'.

FA: Steve Chapman, Robin Holmes, 2003

13
24 *** Cat Power Trad 36m

A clever link up that takes in the best parts of two great routes. Endurance climbing on great rock.

Start: Start as for Careful With That Axe Liam.

FA: Michael O’Reilly, Steve Chapman

14

Sustained varied moves on excellent rock.

Start: 5m right of Careful With That Axe, Liam.

FA: Steve Chapman, Brian Gray, 2003

15
23 ** The Lynx Effect Trad 30m

Absorbing climbing directly up the arête to the highest point on the buttress. Double up on small wires, a few small cams are handy, despite appearances protection is good.

Start: Starts in the chasm 15m right of 'Curiosity Killed The Black Feral Cat'

FA: Steve Chapman, Michael O'Reilly, Jill Gara, 2003

16
23 * Cat Scratch Fever Trad 30m

Follow Lynx Effect for 8m to where it traverses left. Arrange gear and launch straight up on crimps. Watch your back on the wall behind if you fall.

Continue directly up grey wall.

Start: Start as for Lynx Effect.

FA: Steve Chapman, Robin Holmes, 2003

17
17 Bridge Too Far Trad 18m

Stretch Your calves before you start.

Start: Starts 5m right of 'Cat Scratch Fever' at end of chasm.

FA: Steve Chapman, Robin Holmes, 2003

18
20 R Separation Anxiety Trad 15m

Novelty climbing through overhang, lack of protection at start.

Start: Runs up centre of the wall at the top of the grotto through the orange overhang.

FA: Rob Booth, Jill Gara, 2003

19
23 * Ab Slab Sport 15m

Follow line of rings.

Start: Right of 'Separation Anxiety'.

FA: Brendon and Chris Abernethy, 2004

20

An entrant for the worst of the worst... Crappy line, dodgy rock, ground fall potential, its all here.

Start: Left of corner on the track before Paler Shade of White just past the big log.

  1. 17m (22) Unprotected hardish moves on dodgy holds lead to jugs at overhang where the gear is not good and the moss begins. Continue to belay at big ledge. Smell the roses.

  2. 8m (19) Continue up left side of orange wall via a most awkward slopey mantle off the deck.

FA: Steve Chapman, Jill Gara (alternative leads), 2004

21

Bold climbing leftwards along the rising traverse. Double ropes are useful.

Start: At weakness 6m left of 'Traditional Arrangement'.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Jill Gara, Robin Holmes, 2003

22

Harder than it looks.

Start: At the right leaning hand/fist crack in middle of the wall at ground level.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Jill Gara, Robin Holmes, 2003

23

Will clean up with traffic.

Start: Starts on the ledge at FH 2m left of 'Controlled Burn'.

FA: Steve Chapman, Rob Booth, 2006

24
22 * Controlled Burn Trad 14m

Climb left past bolt then right to gear placement. Committing climbing to top on slopey bulges. Take small cams and wires.

Start: Starts below the bolt in the middle of the face.

FA: Robin Holmes, Steve Chapman, 2003

25
21 * Moonlight Mile Trad 11m

Climb directly up the wall, to the left end of the small ledge at half height. Follow the short corner/flake and exciting wall above.

Start: Starts approx. 2 to 3m right of bolt on 'Controlled Burn' and 4m left of the right arête.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Jill Gara, 2003

26
22 * Emotional Rescue Trad 12m

Climb upwards diagonally right to the right end of the small ledge at half height. Follow the horizontal breaks to the small overlap/rooflet near the right arête. Committing moves directly up the wall above (crux).

Start: Starts as for 'Moonlight Mile'

FA: Michael O'Reilly, Jill Gara, 2003

27
22 * Tarzan's Swing Sport 16m, 6

Overhanging fun jug fest.

Start: Starts below bolt 3m right of arête.

FA: Robin Holmes, Steve Chapman, 2003

28

If you still have some juice left at the end of Tarzans Swing, clip the anchor with a long sling and monkey right past a FH on unlikely jugs to the final moves and then anchor of Densei

FFA: Adam Demmert, James Scott-Bohanna, 2013

29
24 * Densei Sport 15m

Right side of scoops, 6 RB's to DRB lower off.

Start: 4m right of Tarzan's Swing.

FA: Ramon Francis, Philip Bogenschütz & Brendon Abernethy, 2003

30
25 ** The Organiser Sport 12m

Up left side of scoops. 5 RB's to DRB lower off.

Start: 15m R of 'Tarzan' Swing.

FA: Brendon Abernethy, 2003

31
20 ** Grease Nipples Trad 45m

Good traverse leads to great final crack.

Start: Start under the huge block that leans against the left edge of the wall, 15-20 metres right of

  1. 10m (9) Climb up through a hole to the top of the block and then up to terrace.

  2. 15m (19) Traverse right along the brek to the vertical line and up a couple of moves to a hanging belay.

  3. 10m (20) Crack to top.

FA: FA: Louise Shepherd, Nyrie Dodd did the finish as part of Work The Meat. Complete ascent : Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman. Easter, 1988

32

First part of 'Screaming Trees', past 2 FH and wires to horizontal break, traverse left to the anchors on the Generator.

Start: As for 'Screaming Trees'.

33
23 * Catatonia Trad 32m

Backs off a little on arete, but keeps you working till the end.

Start: 8m right of Curiosity on the black streak.

FA: Steve Chapman, Jill Gara, 2006

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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