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Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

An easy crack at the right-hand end of the cliff.

FA: Peter Watling, 1978

Arete and wall 3 metres left of "Urchin" and crawl through a slot. Now slab on left.

FA: Kieran Loughran, 1980

Crack system 4 metres left of "Small" to an easy slab.

FA: Keith Egerton & Peter Cunningham, 1978

The crack 1 metre left of "Robert Bruce" and buttress above.

FA: Bede Harrington & Jill Wilson, 1990

The route "Charles Atlas" (SWG ICG) is almost certainly a repeat of this climb.

Start up the slabby diagonal line just left of Robert Bruce. Move left up the line until you can reach up right to a flake which leads to the right-hand side of the large triangular roof. At the roof, move right and up the crack.

FA: Peter Cunningham, M.Spence & Keith Egerton, 1978

Lovely line on beautiful rock.

Start as for No Head For Heights and follow the thin line to the left edge of the roof. Swing left and finish up the steep crack.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Peter Cunningham & Peter Watling, 1978

One hard move.

The line 4 metres left of Layback And Enjoy It.

FA: Gordon Talbett, Keith Egerton & Peter Watling, 1978

Another hard move.

The line 2 metres left of Grappelli.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Peter Watling & Keith Egerton, 1978

Nice line but contrived climbing.

Thin cracks up wall 3 metres left of Reinhardt to a ledge on the left.

FA: Jeff Lamb, Neil Barr, Peter Cunningham, Peter Watling & Keith Egerton. Easter, 1980

The crack 3 metres left of The Hot Club to a ledge. Finish up a corner on the right.

FA: Stephen Abbott, Iain Sedgman & Gabrielle Pellissier, 1978

Start as for Wheelchair Slalom.

Up for 3 metres, then take vertical crack on right face up to left side of block. Stepping up take diagonal crack on left for 3 metres then straight up.

FA: Bev Dick, Dale Wakefield, Rob Pease & Monica Gallus, 1994

Easy chimney 3 metres left of "Trial Balance".

FA: Keith Egerton, 1978

Centre of rib 1 metre left of "Wheelchair Slalom".

FA: Kieran Loughran & Nick Reeves, 1979

Start at the base of Savage God, on the right wall.

The crack through the vertical black stain to the arete. The arete to the top. Aid used by leader was not required by second.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Julie Nitschke & Mark Nitschke, 1990

Campbell Mercer repeated and named this route that had previously been written up as a variant to Savage God.

Start up Savage God then take flakes up the right wall. At the final roof, traverse right or go over the roof.

FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran., 1978

Start as for Savage God.

The corner to the overhang, traverse right, around the first overhang then up to the roof. Traverse right.

FA: Bede Harrington & Mark Nitschke, 1990

Good line with a hard finish.

Take the roofed corner 3 metres left of Wheelchair Slalom, moving left around the overlaps to the left arete. Swing up right above the roof and go up the wall.

FA: Gordon Talbett & Peter Cunningham, 1978

Beautiful slab but a bit contrived. The finish was originally done as a variant finish to "Savage God" possibly by Hugh Foxcroft.

FA: James & Melanie McIntosh, 1992

Start up the arete to reach the crack and follow this to the overhang. Pull over this to excessive jugs.

Start: Start 10 metres left of "Savage God" at a slab with a crack up it.

FA: Peter Watling & Tim Stewart, 1978

Not worth the trouble.

Start 3 metres left of Ragamuffin.

Traverse right under the overhang to the arete. Up the crack for 3 metres then go left above overhangs to the arete. Up to a small corner.

FA: Peter Cunningham & Tim Stewart, 1978

Looks very like a repeat of Fiery God.

Start at the corner 2 metres left of Bea-Lea.

Up the right-leaning crack, the roof and slab above to the thin crack to the overhang. Through the overhang and up to top.

FA: Bede Harrington & Jill Wilson, 1990

Start 3 metres left of "Bea-Lea" where a thin crack leads up a slab to an overhang.

Climb up to the overhang and step right into a cave. No up the steep crack.

FA: Keith Egerton, John Chapman & Peter Cunningham, 1978

Start: Start as for Fiery God.

Climb up to the overlap and climb it. Move 2 metres left to a second crack and go up right to a second bulge. Over bulge, moving slightly left, and continue more easily.

FA: Peter Cunningham & Peter Watling, 1978

Start in the same place as Fiery God.

Trend left up the slabs to below the orange streaks in the overlaps. Through the overlaps via the orange streaks and continue up over another bulge to finishing finger cracks.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Egerton, 1978

From the start of Whispers, traverse left on the lip of the overhang to the arete. Head up left of huge blocks and continue past more blocks.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1978

More a problem than a climb.

Boulder the break in the overhang 10 metres left of the original start. Either continue up the route or traverse back right to the ground.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 2000

Start: Start at the left end of the cave at the major diagonal crack (Not Waving But Drowning).

Pull unto the diagonal crack and immediately step right onto the wall. Diagonally right up the wall (protection behind loose blocks) to a ledge. Finish up crack 3 metres left of arete.

FA: Keith Egerton & Peter Cunningham c, 1979

Seems contrived.

Start as for Not Falling But Flailing. Go 4 metres up the diagonal and step right across to a ledge. Step towards the right arete (crossing Not Falling But Flailing) and climb the crack and then the upper left wall before finishing up the final arete.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Mark Poustie, 1993

Great sustained jamming.

The major diagonal crack at the left end of the cave.

FA: Gordon Talbett, Peter Cunningham, Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran & Iain Sedgman, 1978

Start up white streak 2m R of Diaghilev. One thin move with ground fall potential leads to better protected climbing up to jug and crack. Step right on to orange wall and weave up the centre of the wall with sparse and small protection. Sustained and technical crux. Falling off would be very exciting to say the least.

FA: Mark Wood, 2008

A full value pitch.

Zig-zag crack 3 metres left of Not Waving But Drowning until it ends. Move right to an incipient corner. Up this then traverse left a fair distance to a vertical crack which takes you straight to the top via the centre of the summit block.

FA: Keith Egerton & Gordon Talbett, 1978

A great bit of fun, even if you have to pull on the bolt. Start at the undercut flake 2.5 metres right of Snap, Crackle And Pop. Up flake and vertical flake above. Traverse diagonally left to ramp. up left of blank face to horizontal break and traverse off left. A better finish from the ramp (grade 16) is to head up and left to the headwall and up the twin cracks. (Alt finish Mark Poustie, Campbell Mercer 13-03-1993)

FA: Edward Darling

Up the gully, 15 metres left of "Diaghilev", a groove leads to a right-leading ramp. Up ramp to final corner.

FA: Kevin Lindorff (solo), 1978

A few metres left of "Snap, 'Crackle', Pop", climb the right arete of a corner to a ledge. Move right and curse up a hard corner.

FA: Kevin Lindorff (solo), 1978

Climb the corner just left of "Brittle Bondage" and then a juggy groove.

FA: Peter Watling & Peter Cunningham, 1978

Awkward diagonal on opposite side of gully from "Coldfinger".

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, David Gairns & Gordon Talbett, 1979

Nice pocket pulling. Used to be very poorly protected and probably still is. A few metres down left of Dark Struggle is a steeply overhung groove, becoming a crack at half-height.

FA: Jeff Lamb, Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran & Peter Watling. Easter., 1980

On the front of the block, around left from "Pickpocket" is a bottomless chimney. Finsih up a slabby arete.

FA: Keith Egerton, 1978

Diagonal crack with strange blocks poking out of it just left of "Chimney Thief". Finish up the arete.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran & Gordon Talbett, 1978

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