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Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
6 Urchin Trad 15m

An easy crack at teh right-hand end of the cliff.

FA: Peter Watling, 1978

2
5 Small Trad 20m

Arete and wall 3 metres left of "Urchin" and crawl through a slot. Now slab on left.

FA: Kieran Loughran, 1980

3
17 Robert Bruce Trad 30m

Crack system 4 metres left of "Small" to an easy slab.

FA: Keith Egerton, Peter Cunningham, 1978

4
16 Frumpy Old Women Trad 30m

The crack 1 metre left of "Robert Bruce" and buttress above.

FA: Bede Harrington, Jill Wilson, 1990

5

The route "Charles Atlas" (SWG ICG) is almost certainly a repeat of this climb.

Start: Start up the slabby diagonal line just left of "Robert Bruce".

FA: Peter Cunningham, M.Spence, Keith Egerton, 1978

6

Lovely line on beautiful rock.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Peter Cunningham, Peter Watling, 1978

7
16 Charles Atlas Trad 30m
8
18 Grappelli Trad 30m

One hard move.

FA: Gordon Talbett, Keith Egerton, Peter Watling, 1978

9
18 Reinhardt Trad 30m

Another hard move.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Peter Watling, Keith Egerton, 1978

10
20 The Hot Club Trad 10m

Nice line but contrived climbing.

FA: Jeff Lamb, Neil Barr, Peter Cunningham, Peter Watling, Keith Egerton. Easter, 1980

11
9 Trial Balance Trad 30m

The crack 3 metres left of "The Hot Club" to a ledge. Finish up a corner on the right.

FA: Stephen Abbott, Iain Sedgman, Gabrielle Pellissier, 1978

12
4 Wheelchair Slalom Trad 30m

Easy chimney 3 metres left of "Trial Balance".

FA: Keith Egerton, 1978

13
11 Icon Trad 30m

Centre of rib 1 metre left of "Wheelchair Slalom".

FA: Kieran Loughran, Nick Reeves, 1979

14
21 ** Savage God Trad 35m

Good line with a hard finish.

FA: Gordon Talbett, Peter Cunningham, 1978

15
14 Savage God Variant Trad 30m
17
17 Oh God Trad 35m

Beautiful slab but a bit contrived. The finish was originally done as a variant finish to "Savage God" possibly by Hugh Foxcroft.

FA: James and Melanie McIntosh, 1992

18

The corner to the overhang, traverse right, around the first overhang then up to the roof. Traverse right.

Start: Start as for "Savage God".

FA: Bede Harrington, Mark Nitschke, 1990

19

Campbell Mercer repeated and named this route that had previously been written up as a variant to "Savage God"

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran., 1978

20
17 M0 Who Can It Be Now Aid 30m

The crack through the vertical black stain to teh arete. The arete to the top. Aid used by leader was not required by second.

Start: Start at the bas of "Savage God", on the right wall.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Julie Nitschke, Mark Nitschke, 1990

21
10 Ragamuffin Trad 30m

Start up the arete to reach the crack and follow this to the overhang. Pull over this to excessive jugs.

Start: Start 10 metres left of "Savage God" at a slab with a crack up it.

FA: Peter Watling, Tim Stewart, 1978

22
10 Bea-Lea Trad 35m

Not worth the trouble.

Start: Start 3 metres left of "Ragamuffin".

FA: Peter Cunningham, Tim Stewart, 1978

23
19 Casey Gone Mouldy Trad 35m

Looks very like a repeat of "Fiery God".

Start: Start at the corner 2 metres left of Bea-Lea.

FA: Bede Harrington, Jill Wilson, 1990

24
18 Fiery God Trad 30m

Climb up to the overhang and step right into a cave. No up the steep crack.

Start: Start 3 metres left of "Bea-Lea" where a thin crack leads up a slab to an overhang.

FA: Keith Egerton, John Chapman, Peter Cunningham, 1978

25

Climb up to the overlap and climb it. Move 2 metres left to a second crack and go up right to a second bulge. Over bulge, moving slightly left, and continue more easily.

Start: Start as for "Fiery God".

FA: Peter Cunningham, Peter Watling, 1978

26
16 * Whispers Trad 35m

Trend left up the slabs to below the orange streaks in the overlaps. Through the overlaps via the orange streaks and continue up over another bulge to finishing finger cracks.

Start: Start in the sma place as "Fiery God".

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Egerton, 1978

27
11 * Harelip Trad 42m

From the start of "Whispers", traverse left on the lip of the overhang to the arete. Head up left of huge blocks and continue past more blocks.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1978

28

Pull unto the diagonal crack and immediately step right onto the wall. Diagonally right up the wall (protection behind loose blocks) to a ledge. Finish up crack 3 metres left of arete.

Start: Start at the left end of the cave at the major diagonal crack ("Not Waving But Drowning").

FA: Keith Egerton, Peter Cunningham c, 1979

29

Great sustained jamming.

FA: Gordon Talbett, Peter Cunningham, Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Iain Sedgman, 1978

30
23 X ** The Rite of Spring Trad 40m

Start up white streak 2m R of Diaghilev. One thin move with ground fall potential leads to better protected climbing up to jug and crack. Step right on to orange wall and weave up the centre of the wall with sparse and small protection. Sustained and technical crux. Falling off would be very exciting to say the least.

FA: Mark Wood, 2008

31
19 *** Diaghilev Trad 45m

A full value pitch

FA: Keith Egerton, Gordon Talbett, 1978

32
17 Rain Dancer Aid 22m

a great bit of fun, even if you have to pull on the bolt

FA: Edward Darling

33
15 Snap, Crackle, Pop Trad 27m

Up the gully, 15 metres left of "Diaghilev", a groove leads to a right-leading ramp. Up ramp to final corner.

FA: Kevin Lindorff,(solo), 1978

34
15 R Brittle Bondage Trad 27m

A few metres left of "Snap, 'Crackle', Pop", climb the right arete of a corner to a ledge. Move right and curse up a hard corner.

FA: Kevin Lindorff (solo), 1978

35
13 Coldfinger Trad 25m

Climb the corner just left of "Brittle Bondage" and then a juggy groove.

FA: Peter Watling, Peter Cunningham, 1978

36
14 Dark Struggle Trad 15m

Awkward diagonal on opposite side of gully from "Coldfinger".

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, David Gairns, Gordon Talbett, 1979

37
19 R * Pickpocket Trad 10m

Nice pocket pulling. Used to be very poorly protected and probably still is.

FA: Jeff Lamb, Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Peter Watling. Easter., 1980

38
8 Chimney Thief Trad 35m

On the front of the block, around left from "Pickpocket" is a bottomless chimney. Finsih up a slabby arete.

FA: Keith Egerton, 1978

39
18 * Heart of Darkness Trad 35m

Diagonal crack with strange blocks poking out of it just left of "Chimney Thief". Finish up the arete.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Gordon Talbett, 1978

41

Up for 3 metres, then take vertical crack on right face up to left side of block. Stepping up take diagonal crack on left for 3 metres then straight up.

Start: Start as for "Wheelchair Slalom"

FA: Bev Dick, Dale Wakefield, Rob Pease, Monica Gallus, 1994

42
16 Old Stoic Trad 40m

Seems contrived.

Start: Start as for "Not Falling But Flailing"

FA: Campbell Mercer, Mark Poustie, 1993

43
20 Harelip DS Trad

More a problem than a climb.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 2000

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