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Description

Home of the mega jug. One of the largest bits of rock in the 'Grampians', but totally lacking in any sort of inspiring climbing for the most part.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

122693, 612869. From Flame Wall bush bash north towards the towering choss pile of 'Diseased Wall'. It is an easy 5min thrash. To descend (epic) walk back and left (west) across rock until you can climb down a few metres, then walk left (west) towards treed gully looking for cairn at top of small wall. Scramble down short face and then down scrub gully to bottom.

© (nmonteith)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
17 Laryngitis Trad 80m

Left the first ascentists speechless. The left hand line.

  1. 40m (7) Climb mossy rock to ledge.

  2. 40m (7) The gutter above is clean and has the biggest jugs that you will ever see.

FA: Ian & Neil Barr, 1980

2
7 Bronchitis Trad 90m

The better of the easy routes.

FA: Peter Darby & Graham Sanders, 1980

3
11 Jugular Vein Trad 80m

The large juggy wall between 'Spinal Column' and 'Bronchitis'. Follow your nose, keeping a bit right of centre. Walk off at half-way terrace.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Louise Shepherd (alts), Steve Monks, 1989

4
20 ** Spinal Column Trad 100m

The major corner line through the centre of the wall offers a fine adventure. Mossy and loose. Has been led in two pitches.

  1. 30m (18) Climb the corner to the first roof.

  2. 10m (19) Go right under the first roof and belay just above. The footholds on this pitch are very mossy!

  3. 20m (20) Jam underneath the next roof (crux) and up the corner to a brilliant belay beneath the third roof.

  4. 10m (17) Continue up and traverse under the next roof.

  5. 30m (10) Climb the stegosaurus wall to the Operating Theatre.

FA: Peter Darby, Neil Barr & Ian Barr, 2000

5

FA: Gay Welders Union, 2005

6
12 Welders Butt Crack Trad 45m

Adds an obvious finish to any route on this lower wall. Climbs wall above the Operating Theatre. Starts 25m left of the finish of 'Spinal Column'. Very juggy corner leads to ledge and optional belay. Keep plodding upwards to finish up steep arête and summit glory. Walk off and descend tediously down western side.

FA: Gay Welders Union, 2005

7

One of the longest routes in the 'Victoria Range'. Well, it is if you ignore many routes at 'The Fortress' and 'The Chimney Pots'.

  1. 40m (12) Starts 12m right of 'Spinal Column'. Wander up middle of wall on good jugs to small belay stance. Some loose rock.

  2. 30m (13) Continue up face to belay ledge level with Operating Theatre (this is the same belay point at the end of Spinal Column). Walk 20m left behind block to Operating Theatre Ledge.

  3. 20m (21) Hard start up behind tree and good moves up middle of face on slopers and small edges. Continue up to small ledge.

  4. 15m (19) Head up overhanging wall to large horizontal break then traverse right to arête and up. Harder direct finish is possible but needs bolt.

FA: Jono Schmidt (pitch 1,2,4 Rich Ham (pitch 3), 2005

Open trips

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