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Description

Home of the mega jug. One of the largest bits of rock in the 'Grampians', but totally lacking in any sort of inspiring climbing for the most part.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Approach

122693, 612869. From Flame Wall bush bash north towards the towering choss pile of 'Diseased Wall'. It is an easy 5min thrash. To descend (epic) walk back and left (west) across rock until you can climb down a few metres, then walk left (west) towards treed gully looking for cairn at top of small wall. Scramble down short face and then down scrub gully to bottom.

© (nmonteith)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
17 Laryngitis Trad 80m

Left the first ascentists speechless. The left hand line.

  1. 40m (7) Climb mossy rock to ledge.

  2. 40m (7) The gutter above is clean and has the biggest jugs that you will ever see.

FA: Ian & Neil Barr, 1980

2
7 Bronchitis Trad 90m

The better of the easy routes.

FA: Peter Darby & Graham Sanders, 1980

3
11 Jugular Vein Trad 80m

The large juggy wall between 'Spinal Column' and 'Bronchitis'. Follow your nose, keeping a bit right of centre. Walk off at half-way terrace.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Louise Shepherd (alts), Steve Monks, 1989

4
20 ** Spinal Column Trad 100m

The major corner line through the centre of the wall offers a fine adventure. Mossy and loose. Has been led in two pitches.

  1. 30m (18) Climb the corner to the first roof.

  2. 10m (19) Go right under the first roof and belay just above. The footholds on this pitch are very mossy!

  3. 20m (20) Jam underneath the next roof (crux) and up the corner to a brilliant belay beneath the third roof.

  4. 10m (17) Continue up and traverse under the next roof.

  5. 30m (10) Climb the stegosaurus wall to the Operating Theatre.

FA: Peter Darby, Neil Barr & Ian Barr, 2000

5

FA: Gay Welders Union, 2005

6
12 Welders Butt Crack Trad 45m

Adds an obvious finish to any route on this lower wall. Climbs wall above the Operating Theatre. Starts 25m left of the finish of 'Spinal Column'. Very juggy corner leads to ledge and optional belay. Keep plodding upwards to finish up steep arête and summit glory. Walk off and descend tediously down western side.

FA: Gay Welders Union, 2005

7

One of the longest routes in the 'Victoria Range'. Well, it is if you ignore many routes at 'The Fortress' and 'The Chimney Pots'.

  1. 40m (12) Starts 12m right of 'Spinal Column'. Wander up middle of wall on good jugs to small belay stance. Some loose rock.

  2. 30m (13) Continue up face to belay ledge level with Operating Theatre (this is the same belay point at the end of Spinal Column). Walk 20m left behind block to Operating Theatre Ledge.

  3. 20m (21) Hard start up behind tree and good moves up middle of face on slopers and small edges. Continue up to small ledge.

  4. 15m (19) Head up overhanging wall to large horizontal break then traverse right to arête and up. Harder direct finish is possible but needs bolt.

FA: Jono Schmidt (pitch 1,2,4 Rich Ham (pitch 3), 2005

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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