Route Grade Style Popularity
1
GT Stripe
The wide corner.
Start: Wide corner on left side of bushy alcove a few metres right of where the old pad straight up from Waterworks Track reaches the cliff.
FA: Heather Phillips, Alan Hope, 1982
13
Trad 25m
2
Not The Kingswood
Start: Start at the arete 2 metres left of "GT Stripe "
10m (16) 'Arete' then wall, exiting left of a large boulder onto large ledge.
15m (12) Up the right edge of the main face.
FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran (alt), 1982
16
Trad 25m
3
Pretty In Pink
Follow a corner crack through a roof then a face from a terrace.
Start: Start just left of where the old track meets the cliff and just right of an empty bolt hole.
FA: Keith Egerton, James Falla, 1984
16
Trad 25m
4
Sweet Thursday
Climb the corner and finish straight up the wall. A variant finish at the same grade is to move left into the left-leading diagonal.
Start: The next gully to the left has two corners on the right side. The right-hand, short corner.
FA: Jim Nelson, M.Spence. Variant: Felicity Rousseaux, Stephanie Perrie, 1978
16
Trad 25m
5
Sundae
A lovely climb
FA: Keith Egerton, Peter Cunningham, 1978
18
Trad 25m
6
Eat It
A classy arete but fiddling in the protection is scary.
Start: Start as for "Sundae "
FA: Louise Shepherd, Geoff Weigand, 1985
23 R
Trad 25m
7
Noisy Dog Night
Climb the wall for 10 metres then move up left to a large ledge. Climb the arete on the right.
Start: Start at a tree at the base of the left wall of the "Sundae " gully.
FA: Peter Cunningham, Heather Phillips, 1981
13
Trad 40m
8
Copybook
Amusing start and a good continuation
Start: Start 10 metres left of the "Sundae " gully at an undercut corner.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Arthur Glencross, 1981
13
Trad 40m
9
No Name Country
Climb the wall until just below the left edge of the big roof. The arete on the left to an exciting finish.
Start: Start a few metres left of "Copybook ", just left of the centre of the wall.
FA: Ian Anger, Kieran Loughran, 1985
17
Trad 40m
10
Bushwalking In The Gramps
Start is difficult to protect.
Start: Start at round arete just left of ,em>No Name Country".
FA: Geoff Weigand (solo), 1984
21 R
Trad 40m
11
District Nursing Service
Corner to roof and move right to easy ground
Start: Start at orange corner 15 metres left of "Bushwalking In The Gramps ".
FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984
24 R
Trad 20m
12
Ulla
A fine climb spoiled by a silly crux.
Start: Start at orange corner as for "District Nursing Service ".
FA: Ulla Pearson (to ledge). Geoff Weigand, Tony Perason (complete route), 1984
22
Trad 40m
13
Cherry Boy
Geoff was pointed at this to keep him away from STD Wall.
FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984
27
Trad 20m
14
Flying Compost
Start: Start in the corner just right of the ramp of "Rumbuggery "
30m (16) Up the arete for 5 metres then left to a ledge in a corner. Up to a ledge on the left.
10m (16) Up the corner.
10m (16) Traverse right and go up the arete to a gully.
FA: Peter Cunningham, Jim Nelson, 1978
16
Trad 50m
15
Rumbuggery
The big diagonal ramp that is the access route for "STD Wall". Finish up the corner at the left side of the wall.
FA: Peter Watling, Peter Treby (alt), 1978
16
Trad 95m
16
Discipline and Punish
Sustained right arete of "STD Wall"
20m (23) The crack on the arete, belaying just below bushy ledge.
15m (23) Up ledge for 2 metres, launch up face to belay on slopey ramp.
20m (-) Wander across left to abseil chain.
FA: Louise Shepherd, Tim Day, 1991
23
Trad 55m
17
Venus Aphrodites
Fondling rock never felt so good.
FA: Louise Shepherd, Geoff Weigand, 1985
25
Trad 45m
18
Electra, Ring Your Mother
Classic central line.
25m (25) Up from above the horizontal gum past a fixed wire, moving right where the crack steepens at 20 metres and mantle onoto belay stance.
25m (20) up to rappel station.
FA: louise Shepherd, Steve Monks, 1986
25
Trad 50m
19
The Lash
Rum, buggery and the lash; traditional Australian pastimes.
The superb sustained left-hand line on STD wall starts as a wide crack and rapidly improves.
FA: Louise Shepherd, Kieran Loughran, Maureen Gallagher, 1984
23
Trad 25m
20
The Bumbly Threshold
Start: Start 15 metres right of "Solace " below a diagonal crack 30 metres up the cliff.
30m (15) Up a mild depression and continue in a rut to the base of the crack.
40m (15) Traverse up right for 10 metres then climb up flakes to eventually veer back left to the top of the diagonal crack.
20m (15) Climb the overhang and left-leaning corner.
FA: Peter Cunningham, Peter Watling, 1980
15
Trad 90m
21
Solace
Good first pitch but the start is poorly protected.
Start: Start at the short yellow corner at the right end of the cave.
43m (16) Up the yellow corner and traverse right into the main line. Climb the corner, partly on the left wall, to a ledge below the third roof.
36m (-) Continue up the line.
FA: Peter Treby, Peter Watling (alt), 1978
16 R
Trad 79m
22
Chill Fingers
Start: Start at the short yellow corner at the right-hand end of the long cave, as for "Solace "..
26m (19) Up into poorly protected yellow corner and exit left onto the wall and move up to a flake-line. Follow this until it ends then wend your way up the wall to belay below a corner.
30m (-) Up the corner then the easy face above to the overhangs which are turned on the right.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Kieran Loughran, 2000
19
Trad 65m
23
Some Faraway Beach
Start: About 8 metres left of the right-hand side of the long cave where a flake-line crosses the roof of the cave to the lip. Start where the flake reaches the lip.
30m (19) Pull the lip of the cave onto the wall above. Go up the wall, tending a little left until a line leads back right more towards the centre of the wall. A short flake leads to a ledge below the left of two corners.
30m (18) Up the lefthand corner then easily up the wall. Take the capping roof at its widest point.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Ian Anger, 1985
19
Trad 60m
24
Talon
Start: Start in manky gully at left side of face.
45m (-) Follow the diagonal flake on the right until it finishes. Traverse 5 metres right and climb up to large ledge.
40m (19) Up wall 2 metres left of the crack to eroding ledges. Go diagonally left to the overhang, through the weakness and up the left-facing corner.
FA: Heather Phillips, Peter Cunningham, 1981
19
Trad 80m
25
Buglers Retreat
Utterly worthless.
FA: Peter Cunningham, Heather Phillips, 1981
10
Trad 100m
26
Benazir
Supposed to be surprisingly easy climbing after a hard start. Gear was scoped out from abseil beforehand which suggest that it might be hard to protect onsight.
Start: Two buttresses left of "Talon " is an attractive, steep wall characterised by horizontal breaks and an overhanging left arete. Probably the face left of "Exploration Wall".
FA: Louise Shepherd, Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson, Mike Broadbent., 1989
22
Trad 35m
27
Long Distance
Climb the wall to a flake-line at the bulge. Follow the flake-line until it runs out, move left and go up.
Start: Start 4 metres right of the left edge of the outcrop.
FA: Stephen Burke, Kieran Loughran. Easter, 1985
20
Trad 15m
28
What's Marilyn Wearing?
Up thin crackline for 12 metres and traverse left to rest and thread in scoop (small cam protects crux which includes traverse). Exit right and up subtle corner to large vegetated ledge.
Start: Start in the middle of the smooth wall right of "Talon "
FA: Tim Day, Louise Shepherd (alt), 1991
22
Trad 65m
29
Modern Exploration
Great face climbing through sustained twin seams.
Start: A ripper 'best route on wall'
2m left of ADKOE
Easy first part until under twin cracks in middle steep section of wall. Take cracks to good horizontal then right though weakness to middle ledge. Technical exit moves gets you to easier ground. Face above to rap station.
FA: Damien Heath & Geoff Butcher, 2006
21
Trad 30m
30
Off Shore Drilling
Interestng climbing at easyier grade.
Start: Obvious main corner at left-hand end of cliff.
Interesting finish just before exiting onto ledge
FA: Solo Geoff Butcher, 2006
10
Trad 23m
31
Morals and Dogma
Pockets & seams. Good variety.
Start: Pocketed crack/seam right of small cave, approx. 25m right of 'Wedgy '.
FA: Steve Hollaway & Damien Heath, 2006
16
Trad 15m
32
Ssshh, don’t tell the masses 15m
Next face/buttress right. Line through bulges on left side of buttress
Start: Easily up to first ledge, up over bulge, up to second ledge, over small headwall to easy corner. Take care at top with loose rock. Finish at rap station above 'Raptor '.
FA: Steve Hollaway & Damien Heath, 2006
18
Trad 15m
33
Bloodhound
Technical 'Arete' moves.
Start: 'Try to sniff these moves out'. Good wire gets you past the first FH.
FA: Damien Heath & Steve Hollaway, 2006
21
Trad 17m
34
Peace
Thin Face Climbing
Start: Left black stained line/seam on slabby recessed wall.
FA: Steve Hollaway & Damien Heath, 2006
19
Trad 15m
35
Arête Syndrome
Ladder to Top. Bit loose at Top.
Start: Grey face/wall right side of arête, 3m around & right of M&D.
FA: Damien Heath & Steve Hollaway, 2006
13
Trad 15m
36
Inadequate Oxygen
1meter left of 'Top Hat '. Nice climbing to sustained crux.
Start: 1m left of TH easy start to middle section sustained moves though break on horizontals to ledge then upper wall in a short corner to under roof.
FFA: Damien Heath & Geoff Butcher, 2006
18
Trad 27m
37
Solitude
Sustained face climbing
Start: Line/seam 2m right of 'Peace '.
FA: Steve Hollaway & Damien Heath, 2006
20
Trad 15m
38
Raptor
Great Route / 'Steep' 'Arete' with tricky crux.
Start: 'Steep' arête approx. 3m right of Ssshh, don't tell the masses. Finishes at rap station.
FA: Steve Hollaway & Damien Heath, 2006
22
Trad 18m
39
The Natural Alternative
More sustained at possibly higher grade than solitude
Start: Line/seam 2m right of 'Solitude '.
FA: SH - Project, 2000
Trad 15m
40
Born to fly
Two great corners with exposed traverse.
Start: A fun well protected climb under two small orange roofs.
FA: Damien Heath & Steve Hollaway, 2006
17
Trad 18m
41
Wedgy
First route as you reach the crag.
Easy angled arete 3m right of Hidden MSG .
Start: Start just left after small cave.
First route done at 'Troposphere'.
FA: Lesbian Truckers Co-op, 2006
13
Trad 15m
42
Maggie
Takes a lovely wall but not much information about it.
Start: Start as for "What's Marilyn Waring".
FA: ?Louise Shepherd, 2000
22
Trad 30m
43
Wanna Buy An Idea
Varied face climbing with tricky crux.
Start: As for GRB then left on flakes that traverse 2m to a stance.
FA: Geoff Butcher & Damien Heath, 2006
18
Trad 28m
44
Top Hat
Easy Scamble to Anchors
Start: Scramble up 'Arete' to Anchors
FA: Solo Damien Heath, 2006
8
Trad 27m
45
Different Kind of Esky
More face climbing with thin breaks
Start: 'Excellent' route with great moves, worth a star
2m left of IO easy first section to middle wall, then break though just left of a protruding block perched on the middle ledge, upper wall to large ledge
FA: Geoff Butcher & Damien Heath, 2006
19
Trad 27m
46
Hidden MSG
On Juggs this time...
Start: Seam 3m Right of 'Solitude '.
FA: Damien Heath & Steve Hollaway, 2006
15
Trad 15m
47
The Final Solution
Arete climbing with large pockets. 2 x fixed hangers.
Start: T1 start, arête with tree at base.
FA: Damien Heath & Steve Hollaway, 2006
18
Trad 18m
48
The Velvet Beak
Thin holds starts you off.
Start: Still on 'Talon ' Wall far 'Left Side '.
Arête left-hand end of 'Talon ' Wall
Thin start on arête leads to faint crack to ledge just right of 'Talon ' first pitch.
FA: Geoff Butcher & Damien Heath, 2006
17
Trad 25m
49
This is not a club trip
Easy angled corner at left end of 'Lower Tier ' 'Right Wall '.
Start: Easy corner 3-4 meters left of 'The Final Solution '.
FA: Lesbian Truckers Co-op, 2006
15
Trad 15m
50
Get Ready Bold
Pleaseant but sustained face climbing
Start: Pleasant outing
1m left of ME under the gap in the two protruding blocks on the middle ledge.
Easy ground to a number of flake moves right. Move left to go though gap between blocks, face to ledge.
FA: Damin Heath & Geoff Butcher, 2006
19
Trad 27m
51
BITG Variant Start
Climb seams 2 metres left of the start of "Bushwalking In The Gramps " past a poor pin (probably not necessary)
FA: Kieran Loughran, Tony Pearson, 1984
23
Trad