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Description

This section of the guide used to have the indecipherable name of "Eagles Head 'Lower Tier' 'Right Side' / Upper Exploration Wall", whatever that meant. But the fact is this section needs to cover all of 'Eagles Head', so a correspondingly simple title is apt. Predominantly traditional climbing high in the 'Victoria' ranges. Good quality routes within grade 13 to 25. Generally very solid rock.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

From Glenelg River Road enter Waterworks Tk. Drive along and down steep hill. Turn right then park in small car park next to the concrete spillway. 35min up hill once you have crossed concrete spillway. Head over keeping left, up onto steep ridge. Follow ridge up staying to right side of large boulders.

For lower tier routes these are described left to right. Abseil Descent for all routes (Inc Exploration Wall descent) above 'Born to Fly'.

Exploration Wall is the large grey wall directly above lower tier right side.

Upper tier routes are described from right-to-left.

Lower tier routes are described from left-to-right.

Thank goodness for the topo because the above description is almost incomprehensible even if you've been to the crag. The easiest way to describe the access is: walk up to 'Ruined Castle' (described in another section), left along the base of that crag, then up the hillside to 'Eagles Head'. It'll take you about half an hour, maybe a bit more.

The left-hand end of the lower tier is probably easiest reached by walking up the ridge to it from Waterworks Track. This takes about 30 minutes.

© (nmonteith)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
13 GT Stripe Trad 25m

The wide corner.

Start: Wide corner on left side of bushy alcove a few metres right of where the old pad straight up from Waterworks Track reaches the cliff.

FA: Heather Phillips, Alan Hope, 1982

2
16 Not The Kingswood Trad 25m

Start: Start at the arete 2 metres left of "GT Stripe"

  1. 10m (16) 'Arete' then wall, exiting left of a large boulder onto large ledge.

  2. 15m (12) Up the right edge of the main face.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran (alt), 1982

3
16 Pretty In Pink Trad 25m

Follow a corner crack through a roof then a face from a terrace.

Start: Start just left of where the old track meets the cliff and just right of an empty bolt hole.

FA: Keith Egerton, James Falla, 1984

4
16 * Sweet Thursday Trad 25m

Climb the corner and finish straight up the wall. A variant finish at the same grade is to move left into the left-leading diagonal.

Start: The next gully to the left has two corners on the right side. The right-hand, short corner.

FA: Jim Nelson, M.Spence. Variant: Felicity Rousseaux, Stephanie Perrie, 1978

5
18 ** Sundae Trad 25m

A lovely climb

FA: Keith Egerton, Peter Cunningham, 1978

6
23 R * Eat It Trad 25m

A classy arete but fiddling in the protection is scary.

Start: Start as for "Sundae"

FA: Louise Shepherd, Geoff Weigand, 1985

7
13 Noisy Dog Night Trad 40m

Climb the wall for 10 metres then move up left to a large ledge. Climb the arete on the right.

Start: Start at a tree at the base of the left wall of the "Sundae" gully.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Heather Phillips, 1981

8
13 * Copybook Trad 40m

Amusing start and a good continuation

Start: Start 10 metres left of the "Sundae" gully at an undercut corner.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Arthur Glencross, 1981

9
17 No Name Country Trad 40m

Climb the wall until just below the left edge of the big roof. The arete on the left to an exciting finish.

Start: Start a few metres left of "Copybook", just left of the centre of the wall.

FA: Ian Anger, Kieran Loughran, 1985

10

Start is difficult to protect.

Start: Start at round arete just left of ,em>No Name Country".

FA: Geoff Weigand (solo), 1984

11

Corner to roof and move right to easy ground

Start: Start at orange corner 15 metres left of "Bushwalking In The Gramps".

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984

12
22 * Ulla Trad 40m

A fine climb spoiled by a silly crux.

Start: Start at orange corner as for "District Nursing Service".

FA: Ulla Pearson (to ledge). Geoff Weigand, Tony Perason (complete route), 1984

13
27 * Cherry Boy Trad 20m

Geoff was pointed at this to keep him away from STD Wall.

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984

14
16 Flying Compost Trad 50m

Start: Start in the corner just right of the ramp of "Rumbuggery"

  1. 30m (16) Up the arete for 5 metres then left to a ledge in a corner. Up to a ledge on the left.

  2. 10m (16) Up the corner.

  3. 10m (16) Traverse right and go up the arete to a gully.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Jim Nelson, 1978

15
16 * Rumbuggery Trad 95m

The big diagonal ramp that is the access route for "STD Wall". Finish up the corner at the left side of the wall.

FA: Peter Watling, Peter Treby (alt), 1978

16

Sustained right arete of "STD Wall"

  1. 20m (23) The crack on the arete, belaying just below bushy ledge.

  2. 15m (23) Up ledge for 2 metres, launch up face to belay on slopey ramp.

  3. 20m (-) Wander across left to abseil chain.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Tim Day, 1991

17
25 ** Venus Aphrodites Trad 45m

Fondling rock never felt so good.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Geoff Weigand, 1985

18

Classic central line.

  1. 25m (25) Up from above the horizontal gum past a fixed wire, moving right where the crack steepens at 20 metres and mantle onoto belay stance.

  2. 25m (20) up to rappel station.

FA: louise Shepherd, Steve Monks, 1986

19
23 ** The Lash Trad 25m

Rum, buggery and the lash; traditional Australian pastimes.

The superb sustained left-hand line on STD wall starts as a wide crack and rapidly improves.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Kieran Loughran, Maureen Gallagher, 1984

20

Start: Start 15 metres right of "Solace" below a diagonal crack 30 metres up the cliff.

  1. 30m (15) Up a mild depression and continue in a rut to the base of the crack.

  2. 40m (15) Traverse up right for 10 metres then climb up flakes to eventually veer back left to the top of the diagonal crack.

  3. 20m (15) Climb the overhang and left-leaning corner.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Peter Watling, 1980

21
16 R * Solace Trad 79m

Good first pitch but the start is poorly protected.

Start: Start at the short yellow corner at the right end of the cave.

  1. 43m (16) Up the yellow corner and traverse right into the main line. Climb the corner, partly on the left wall, to a ledge below the third roof.

  2. 36m (-) Continue up the line.

FA: Peter Treby, Peter Watling (alt), 1978

22
19 ** Chill Fingers Trad 65m

Start: Start at the short yellow corner at the right-hand end of the long cave, as for "Solace"..

  1. 26m (19) Up into poorly protected yellow corner and exit left onto the wall and move up to a flake-line. Follow this until it ends then wend your way up the wall to belay below a corner.

  2. 30m (-) Up the corner then the easy face above to the overhangs which are turned on the right.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Kieran Loughran, 2000

23
19 * Some Faraway Beach Trad 60m

Start: About 8 metres left of the right-hand side of the long cave where a flake-line crosses the roof of the cave to the lip. Start where the flake reaches the lip.

  1. 30m (19) Pull the lip of the cave onto the wall above. Go up the wall, tending a little left until a line leads back right more towards the centre of the wall. A short flake leads to a ledge below the left of two corners.

  2. 30m (18) Up the lefthand corner then easily up the wall. Take the capping roof at its widest point.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ian Anger, 1985

24
19 Talon Trad 80m

Start: Start in manky gully at left side of face.

  1. 45m (-) Follow the diagonal flake on the right until it finishes. Traverse 5 metres right and climb up to large ledge.

  2. 40m (19) Up wall 2 metres left of the crack to eroding ledges. Go diagonally left to the overhang, through the weakness and up the left-facing corner.

FA: Heather Phillips, Peter Cunningham, 1981

25
10 Buglers Retreat Trad 100m

Utterly worthless.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Heather Phillips, 1981

26
22 Benazir Trad 35m

Supposed to be surprisingly easy climbing after a hard start. Gear was scoped out from abseil beforehand which suggest that it might be hard to protect onsight.

Start: Two buttresses left of "Talon" is an attractive, steep wall characterised by horizontal breaks and an overhanging left arete. Probably the face left of "Exploration Wall".

FA: Louise Shepherd, Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson, Mike Broadbent., 1989

27
20 Long Distance Trad 15m

Climb the wall to a flake-line at the bulge. Follow the flake-line until it runs out, move left and go up.

Start: Start 4 metres right of the left edge of the outcrop.

FA: Stephen Burke, Kieran Loughran. Easter, 1985

28

Up thin crackline for 12 metres and traverse left to rest and thread in scoop (small cam protects crux which includes traverse). Exit right and up subtle corner to large vegetated ledge.

Start: Start in the middle of the smooth wall right of "Talon"

FA: Tim Day, Louise Shepherd (alt), 1991

29
21 ** Modern Exploration Trad 30m

Great face climbing through sustained twin seams.

Start: A ripper 'best route on wall'

2m left of ADKOE

Easy first part until under twin cracks in middle steep section of wall. Take cracks to good horizontal then right though weakness to middle ledge. Technical exit moves gets you to easier ground. Face above to rap station.

FA: Damien Heath & Geoff Butcher, 2006

30
10 Off Shore Drilling Trad 23m

Interestng climbing at easyier grade.

Start: Obvious main corner at left-hand end of cliff.

Interesting finish just before exiting onto ledge

FA: Solo Geoff Butcher, 2006

31
16 Morals and Dogma Trad 15m

Pockets & seams. Good variety.

Start: Pocketed crack/seam right of small cave, approx. 25m right of 'Wedgy'.

FA: Steve Hollaway & Damien Heath, 2006

32

Next face/buttress right. Line through bulges on left side of buttress

Start: Easily up to first ledge, up over bulge, up to second ledge, over small headwall to easy corner. Take care at top with loose rock. Finish at rap station above 'Raptor'.

FA: Steve Hollaway & Damien Heath, 2006

33
21 ** Bloodhound Trad 17m

Technical 'Arete' moves.

Start: 'Try to sniff these moves out'. Good wire gets you past the first FH.

FA: Damien Heath & Steve Hollaway, 2006

34
19 Peace Trad 15m

Thin Face Climbing

Start: Left black stained line/seam on slabby recessed wall.

FA: Steve Hollaway & Damien Heath, 2006

35
13 Arête Syndrome Trad 15m

Ladder to Top. Bit loose at Top.

Start: Grey face/wall right side of arête, 3m around & right of M&D.

FA: Damien Heath & Steve Hollaway, 2006

36
18 Inadequate Oxygen Trad 27m

1meter left of 'Top Hat'. Nice climbing to sustained crux.

Start: 1m left of TH easy start to middle section sustained moves though break on horizontals to ledge then upper wall in a short corner to under roof.

FFA: Damien Heath & Geoff Butcher, 2006

37
20 Solitude Trad 15m

Sustained face climbing

Start: Line/seam 2m right of 'Peace'.

FA: Steve Hollaway & Damien Heath, 2006

38
22 * Raptor Trad 18m

Great Route / 'Steep' 'Arete' with tricky crux.

Start: 'Steep' arête approx. 3m right of Ssshh, don't tell the masses. Finishes at rap station.

FA: Steve Hollaway & Damien Heath, 2006

39

More sustained at possibly higher grade than solitude

Start: Line/seam 2m right of 'Solitude'.

FA: SH - Project, 2000

40
17 ** Born to fly Trad 18m

Two great corners with exposed traverse.

Start: A fun well protected climb under two small orange roofs.

FA: Damien Heath & Steve Hollaway, 2006

41
13 Wedgy Trad 15m

First route as you reach the crag.

Easy angled arete 3m right of Hidden MSG.

Start: Start just left after small cave.

First route done at 'Troposphere'.

FA: Lesbian Truckers Co-op, 2006

42
22 Maggie Trad 30m

Takes a lovely wall but not much information about it.

Start: Start as for "What's Marilyn Waring".

FA: ?Louise Shepherd, 2000

43
18 Wanna Buy An Idea Trad 28m

Varied face climbing with tricky crux.

Start: As for GRB then left on flakes that traverse 2m to a stance.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Damien Heath, 2006

44
8 Top Hat Trad 27m

Easy Scamble to Anchors

Start: Scramble up 'Arete' to Anchors

FA: Solo Damien Heath, 2006

45

More face climbing with thin breaks

Start: 'Excellent' route with great moves, worth a star

2m left of IO easy first section to middle wall, then break though just left of a protruding block perched on the middle ledge, upper wall to large ledge

FA: Geoff Butcher & Damien Heath, 2006

46
15 Hidden MSG Trad 15m

On Juggs this time...

Start: Seam 3m Right of 'Solitude'.

FA: Damien Heath & Steve Hollaway, 2006

47
18 * The Final Solution Trad 18m

Arete climbing with large pockets. 2 x fixed hangers.

Start: T1 start, arête with tree at base.

FA: Damien Heath & Steve Hollaway, 2006

48
17 The Velvet Beak Trad 25m

Thin holds starts you off.

Start: Still on 'Talon' Wall far 'Left Side'.

Arête left-hand end of 'Talon' Wall

Thin start on arête leads to faint crack to ledge just right of 'Talon' first pitch.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Damien Heath, 2006

49

Easy angled corner at left end of 'Lower Tier' 'Right Wall'.

Start: Easy corner 3-4 meters left of 'The Final Solution'.

FA: Lesbian Truckers Co-op, 2006

50
19 Get Ready Bold Trad 27m

Pleaseant but sustained face climbing

Start: Pleasant outing

1m left of ME under the gap in the two protruding blocks on the middle ledge.

Easy ground to a number of flake moves right. Move left to go though gap between blocks, face to ledge.

FA: Damin Heath & Geoff Butcher, 2006

51

Climb seams 2 metres left of the start of "Bushwalking In The Gramps" past a poor pin (probably not necessary)

FA: Kieran Loughran, Tony Pearson, 1984

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