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Description

This section of the guide used to have the indecipherable name of "Eagles Head 'Lower Tier' 'Right Side' / Upper Exploration Wall", whatever that meant. But the fact is this section needs to cover all of 'Eagles Head', so a correspondingly simple title is apt. Predominantly traditional climbing high in the 'Victoria' ranges. Good quality routes within grade 13 to 25. Generally very solid rock.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

From Glenelg River Road enter Waterworks Tk. Drive along and down steep hill. Turn right then park in small car park next to the concrete spillway. 35min up hill once you have crossed concrete spillway. Head over keeping left, up onto steep ridge. Follow ridge up staying to right side of large boulders.

For lower tier routes these are described left to right. Abseil Descent for all routes (Inc Exploration Wall descent) above 'Born to Fly'.

Exploration Wall is the large grey wall directly above lower tier right side.

Upper tier routes are described from right-to-left.

Lower tier routes are described from left-to-right.

Thank goodness for the topo because the above description is almost incomprehensible even if you've been to the crag. The easiest way to describe the access is: walk up to 'Ruined Castle' (described in another section), left along the base of that crag, then up the hillside to 'Eagles Head'. It'll take you about half an hour, maybe a bit more.

The left-hand end of the lower tier is probably easiest reached by walking up the ridge to it from Waterworks Track. This takes about 30 minutes.

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

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