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Split Pinnacle

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 17

Climbing in this area is not permitted.

8

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Access issues inherited from Eastern Mt Difficult Range

The Greater Gariwerd Landscape Management Plan, Map 4C, shows that climbing is currently permitted (Nov 2022) on the following crags: Syria, Lebanon (including Hezbollah), Pine Wall and Lunar Walls.

The status of the other crags in this area, including one of the best ones between the permitted climbing areas of Lebanon and Pine Wall, i.e. The Promised Land, is unclear.

Approach

Approximately 1.5km North of the Heatherlie Quarry track there is a rough 4WD track leading west (park here unless you have high clearance). From the end of this try and follow old cairns up the hill to the base of the pinnacle.

Descent notes

Simplest descent is to walk about 50m left from the top of the pinnacle, then scramble down.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Climb up the right side of Split Pinnacle through a bulge, then move left around to the front and up to a ledge. Continue up to the diagonal break that goes across the ceiling, head along this and onto the face, then move hastily to the top.

FA: Wayne Maher & Peter Cunningham, 1990

This starts on the right-hand side of Split Pinnacle.

  1. 20m Climb up the steep wall, then move left at the break in the ceiling and head around onto the arete, then go up to a stance below the roofs.

  2. 15m Traverse to the left over a flake to a chimney through the roof, then climb this.

FA: Wayne Maher & Derek Visser, 1989

Three lines lead through the lower roof on the front of Split Pinnacle. This route takes the right hand one.

  1. 20m 15. Up the crack and its right wall around the roof, then up to belay as for The Rush Variant.

  2. 15m 10. Traverse left over the flake to finish up the chimney.

FA: Chris Baxter & Geoff Gledhill, 2002

This climb is on the left-hand side of the outcrop. Climb up to the ledge, then traverse right under a block and climb the chimney.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Glen Donohue & Ann Scholes, 1989

Start 4m right of 'Lou-Ellen the Great'. Up onto ramp then up the wall above, just right of the tree. Slightly contrived to avoid the scrub off right.

FA: Anthony Cuskelly & Adele Westgård, 29 Apr 2018

Walk left for 40m below the broken crag which continues from the left edge of the main pinnacle, to a right-facing corner with large boulder at base, just right of prominent overhangs. From the top of boulder, get into corner and climb it.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jeremy Maddox, 2002

Just left of the roofs; up the crack system and then finish up right

FA: Adele Westgård & Anthony Cuskelly, 29 Apr 2018

10m further left, just before the cliff breaks down, there is a vertical crack and right-trending crack sharing a start. Follow the vertical crack.

FA: Adele Westgård & Anthony Cuskelly, 29 Apr 2018

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

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Tue 25 Apr
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