Help

Emu Rock

Description

Fantastic looking north facing vertical wall, seen easily from the carpark. It's like Eureka Wall but with loads more jugs (and less striking lines).

The huge slot cave on the lower R side of the main face is the Emu Cave sport crag (described separately).

© (jgoding)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

Emu Rock is found above Muline Crag.

Park your car about 200m south of Muline Creek on Red Rock Road near a small clearing. Head east on old 4WD track for 5mins to road. Turn right, then on your left after about 50-100m is a cairned well established track. Follow this for around 20mins until you reach Muline Crag. Waltz up the left end and scramble left up a corner, then when you are on the tier above Muline Crag, follow the cliff right until you come to a weakness in the cliff and head up through this. The magnificent Emu Rock is soon apparent.

Descent: there are 3 abseil options. 1) 35m. ~10m left of the top of 'Whipping Boy' is a large bollard with slings and a ring on it. 2) 55m ~ 20m down and right of the top of Cyclops is a bolted rap station (extended with rope, which was looking a little tired July 2018). 3) 45m, slings on bollard approx 3m right and down from 'Patagonia' P2 belay. Apparently you can walk off - this would be epic!

© (jgoding)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Left of "Whipping Boy" is a big orange wall. Nile takes the right edge of this wall.

  1. 20m (13) Climb slabby wall trending up right until below overhang. Pull around left side of overhang and up juggy arete to ledge.

  2. 20m (13) Up left and up wall to the left of black slab. Step right to ledge. Abseil off bollards.

FA: Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood (alt) & Norm Booth, 2005

This route takes an obvious crack through a roof 4m off the ground a few metres L of 'Homework'. 1) 18m Up through the roof (crux) to a ledge. Traverse L to belay in a small cave. 2) 20m Traverse out R from cave, and up R-ward leading flake/crack to ledge. 3) 15m Up on jugs to the top.

FA: Jeremy Boreham & Mike Wust (alt), 1993

  1. 20m Up arete and step L into L facing corner then diagonally L up steep wall to join 'Quick Draw McGraw' at belay ledge. 2) 35m Up rotten corner to top (or last pitch of 'Quick' Draw McGraw).

Start: Start 12m along from L end of undercut section.

FA: Mike Wust, Wayne Maher (alt) Jeremy Boreham & Jerry Maddox, 1993

Excellent adventure climbing following the obvious curving line on the L end of the cliff. Generally sound rock and good holds compensate for the tasty steepness. Start at L end of wall at corner under roof.

  1. 30m (crux) Up, then move out L to pass overhang. There’s a couple of steps back R to follow the line. Belay on ledge at half height.

  2. 30m Continue up curving line to steep exit through notch.

  3. 20m Scramble to the top or walk L along terrace to abseil bollard.

FA: Chris Baxter & Maureen Gallagher (alt) Sue Baxter, 1987

The first of three routes which are direct variants of 'Whipping Boy'. Start 6m R of Whipping Boy.

  1. 37m (crux) Climb blunt arete under R end of roof. Pass roof and traverse L to line about 3m R of Whipping Boy. Up to SHB level with Whipping Boy’s belay ledge.

  2. 30m Straight up, then veer R on buckets, before going up again to join Whipping Boy at the head-wall.

  3. 20m As for Whipping Boy.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1988

The second pitch was first led in driving rain. A variant on 'Wallscrawl'.

FA: James & Melanie McIntosh (alt), 1992

More of the same with less pro.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1989

  1. 35m Start as for 'Sahara' but traverse L across steep wall where 'Sahara' veers R. Through friable section, then up to wall between 'Mother Superior' and 'Sahara'. Face, then vague runnel at 15m, wall. HB at dyke. 2) 25m Directly up wall until it eases, then veer L to meet 'Whipping Boy' at weakness in head-wall. 3) Roped scrambling to top.

FA: Anton Bartlett & Simon Murray (alt), 1995

Sustained and great.

  1. 35m Climb the little corner just R of Wallscrawl, moving R on to the vague arete after the friable section. Up and R on to main wall, then up through smooth section and a little L into the line of weakness which leads to a SHB at central of three deep cracks just above the first main dyke.

  2. 25m Continue steeply up the line to tilted horizontal line. Step L, then climb cracks above to a patch of grass, which is just below the second dyke. Head up and R to crack/slot, then straight up crossing horizontal that becomes overlap further R to a dramatic exit L via first weakness R of Whipping Boy etc.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt) Geoff Gledhill, 1989

A fantastic route - it's like an easier version of Archimedes Principle (Eureka Wall)! The rock is superbly featured, but it can be rather brittle (esp on first pitch).

  1. 35m It's pretty hard to determine exactly where pitch 1 should go, but all options seem to be about the same difficulty. Aim towards the right most of three deep cracks just above the first main dyke.

  2. 30m Up and slightly R, aiming for the distinctive eye (which provides the means for passing through the second dyke). Keep on the same up-and-right trajectory to pull through the overlap to weakness in head-wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Parrish Robbins, 1990

Climbing in superb positions up the most imposing line on the wall. The first ascent was completed in true Patagonian conditions; gale force winds, torrential rain and hail.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1988

FA: Steve Monks & Jane Wilkinson, 1991

Hotter than the 'Sahara'. Starts just R of 'Patagonia' at L edge of giant boulder. Either long ropes or a short first pitch would avoid the need for second and leader climbing simultaneously. Up the juggy crack to a seam, The wall is now climbed direct, veering slightly R at half height to a knee bar at the overlap. Step L and continue up the upper wall to the top, crossing Patagonia's original second pitch traverse on the way.

FA: Parish Robbins & Keith Lockwood, 1990

  1. 30m From bottom R toe of the wall, climb intermittent, diagonal crack system up wall to above small, friable cave. Veer L up wall on vague dyke below base of large cave. HB where rising dyke meets major horizontal dyke. 2) 50m (crux) Traverse L across wall along dyke to HB on L arete of face. 3-4) 65m As for 'Whipping Boy'.

FA: Simon Murray & Tim Peterson (alt), 1995

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Photos Browse all photos

Upload a photo of area

Activity

Check out what is happening in Emu Rock.